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Everything posted by toecutter

  1. toecutter

    Songs/Groups that Suck but You Still Played Them

    40 years later this is still one of my faves and a regular on my playlists
  2. toecutter

    Change # posts per page????

    Thanks Mid. First the headphone jack and now this. Gotta love new and improved. Sooooo..... Is there a hack?
  3. toecutter

    Change # posts per page????

    Years and years ago I changed my settings to display 100 posts per page. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Fast forward to now and not so good (damn you youtube, high resolution imagery and posters that quote and requote and requote posts containing all the above). Problem is, I can't seem to find the setting to change my posts per page preferences anywhere. Help?
  4. toecutter

    Routing wires thru thus the deck at the mast

    There's a number of alternatives. You can possibly run three smaller wires through a blue seas clam if you wrapped them in a self amalgamating tape where they pass through the clam, but I think the Stranstut multi-deck seal is reasonable solution if you want the wires to pass through individually.
  5. toecutter

    Mackay Yacht Club QLD Australia

    The sailing club doesn''t have a clubhouse anymore but they should still be active. You might have to chase them up on the Internet if you can find them. They used to do Wednesday nights and weekend races out the front of the Harbour so maybe they still do. The Whitsunday sailing club at Airlie would be a far better bet, but it's about a two hour drive away. Tourist things. Spots to visit are Cape Hillsborough with the roos on the beach at sunrise, Eungella with rainforest walks and platypi, Hay Point and it's lookout over the coal terminal and anchored ships, the Sarina Sugar Shed for stuff related to the sugar industry and rum. The marina is nice for a feed and drink, and the southern breakwater is a bit of an attraction to walk along. If you have a weekend spare I think the best place to head is Airlie Beach for the day or even the weekend.
  6. toecutter

    Vimeo and Youtube music copyright

    Here's a hack. Download an instrumental version of a song. Try it in Shazam to see if it gets identified. If it doesn't, slap it in your video.
  7. toecutter

    What went wrong with my tooside painting?

    In a nutshell, your paint isn't thinned enough or you are letting it dry out too quickly before tipping. When I used roll and tip on my boat years ago, I found that I needed to use foam rollers (after testing the paint thinners don't disintegrate them!) and the best natural bristle brush for tipping I could afford (actually two - see below). Next, I found that I had to add a lot more thinners then suggested (but I was using industrial linear polyurtethane paint, so not a known paint for rolling and tipping, and it was late spring in the tropics at the time) until the paint had the look and feel of milk (it was white paint). In fact the paint was so thin, I ended up doing six coats instead of the usual two or three, but I attribute that to the type of paint used and it's suitability to roll and tip in the prevailing weather. To apply, you need to work the paint with the roller in random directions to prevent the lap marks. The result should be a coating free of stroke marks, but full of tiny air bubbles. The brush is then dragged, clean and dry and lightly in a single direction to basically pop the bubbles and smooth out the paint. You should start by tipping along the line of your previously tipped paint, and finish at the wet edge of the new paint. The reason for the two brushes is that your helper can clean the brush in solvent and allow it to dry whilst you use the alternative brush because after a while, the brush will gather paint and can start to drag lines in the wet paint as you tip. The general suggestion is that one person should paint while another tips. I found that the best method for working fast is to have one person roll and tip, whilst the helper keeps the tipping brush clean and adds more thinner to the paint tray as the thinner evaporates out. As mentioned, this was a job painted in the tropics near the start of summer, so this might not be as big a problem where you are.
  8. toecutter

    You know someone really screwed up when...

    No long after we brought our boat, some fellow at a marina we were at wondered up one day and said "I know that boat". He claimed to know it from an area at least 800 km away and quite a few years beforehand. He then proceeded to say that "So and so owned it at the time and drilled a hole through the hull when installing a new head". I had no idea who "so and so" was, but that didn't deter him from telling the story, at length, of the day this incident happened and the panic that ensued. Of course, I just nodded and smiled thinking that this guy's got the wrong boat. Many years later, we're replacing the head. What do we find? One extremely rough smashed/cut-out section of the liner immediately under the head that appeared as if it had been done in great haste along with one very poorly filled and patched quarter inch diameter hole. The boat was on the hardstand at the time, so it was easy to confirm that the hole did, in fact, exit the outside of the hull once a bit of antifoul was ground away in the general area.
  9. toecutter

    Taiwanese Opening Portlight Install

    My fibreglass boat has 8 similar portlights installed in the hull. Great big bronze things. The outside flange on them does line up so they install by bolting through. The three months I've spent replacing the wood trim of the salon of the boat is testament to how stupid it is to seal the portlights from the inside once the sealing give way. But I digress; here's an alternative idea, if you have the room. The portlights are thick anyway, so install a teak or synthetic frame on the inside of the cabin. With sufficient thickness you can screw your screws into the combined fibreglass/wood just as if it were a wood boat. You can use a good polysulfide sealant/adhesive (but not that adhesive it can never, ever be disassembled again!) to seal everything up. When I rebedded my portlights, I used a bead of butyl tape around the frame as well so that it would compress and fill the void between the cutout and the portlight on insertion.
  10. toecutter

    Severe Hull Damage

    It'd be a great deal if you were getting paid the money to dispose of it. If you were to buy it, here's how it would pan out: It'd take 3 to 4 x the cost to fix it compared to any original estimate. It's take 3 to 4 x the time to fix it compared to any original estimate. During that time, the effects would not be subtle. Most likely, you're wanting to buy this boat because you are on a limited budget. Every waking moment of your life will centre around either working your job for income or working on the boat. The money will pour out as fast as it comes in. Wiring, engines, joinery, structural defects etc won't take weeks to complete. They'll take months. And months. And months. If you're persistent, you'll stick at for long enough that you'll get to splash it. At that point you'll have a boat that was no cheaper, and arguably no better, than if you'd just saved the pennies from the day you brought it and then purchased a ready to go similar model on the day you eventually splash. On the other hand, If you fail to persist with this huge project, you will eventually dispose of it for cents on the dollar. However, if you're not really that interested in sailing and have nothing better to do with your life or finances for the next three to six years, go for it!
  11. toecutter

    Thickening polyester resin

    Talc is the usual stuff to use, but epoxy thickeners will work.
  12. toecutter

    Rusty stainless

    Go to a welding supplies shop and buy some "pickling paste" for stainless steel. This is a pretty nasty acid, so use with caution, but it'll beat the pants off any other hardware store chemical for passivating the material. After treatment with the paste, polish or electropolish to requirements. On another note, keeping stainless steel at an elevated temperature for too long causes carbide to precipitate out of the alloy which reduces it's corrosion resistance. Avoid holding the material at high temperatures for too long and choose "ELC" (extra low carbon) grades of material. These grades are designated with an "L" postfix e.g. 316L
  13. It's not a blog. The guy was/is the publisher of a low budget cruising mag. If you browse through copies from around 2012 or so, he progressively reports on his chemical illness being caused by his boat building activities, then to pesticides and maybe other stuff and finally government agencies trying to kill him. You can start here (page 4) and move backwards and forwards through editions to get the full picture.
  14. It's not a blog. The guy was/is the publisher of a low budget cruising mag. If you browse through copies from around 2012 or so, he progressively reports on his chemical illness being caused by his boat building activities, then to pesticides and maybe other stuff and finally government agencies trying to kill him. You can start here (page 4) and move backwards and forwards through editions to get the full picture.
  15. Ding!, ding! ding! The number one reason budget DIY boat yards are filled with the abandoned carcasses of, predominantly, steel and wood boats.
  16. Not as interesting as his next project though. He built himself a catamaran sometime later and during that event he became convinced the government as trying to kill him by releasing nerve gas or something like that upwind from him. Methinks that either he was an ex-Russian agent, or he should have worn a better respirator when playing with boat building chemicals.
  17. Good to see the OP has come to his senses. I'd suggest any future prespective buyer of an old steelie first read the story contained within the link below. It's saved many from grief over the years! The saving of Whitebird
  18. toecutter

    Heat treating stainless

    Maybe a stupid idea, but why not just get a slightly undersized open ender and die grind the jaws until it fits? You can also get those self locking style jobbies that don't have the rust (and seize) prone worm adjustment of a regular shifter. And 400 grade stainless is what you want if persisting with the DIY route, but there are two distinct types - ferritic and martensitic. Martensitic is the stuff they make knives and forks from and is the heat treatable stuff that you'd need.
  19. toecutter

    What are your boat projects?

    This should make you feel a LOT better... Repair leaking port side hull to deck joint Replace rotted core in anchor well deck Drop rudder and refurbish including core replacement, Renew wiring and switch panels (including cabinetry) and nav lighting. Add a bunch of new stuff to create an onboard wired and wireless network for Ethernet and NMEA connections. Renew plumbing and modify shower sump for overboard discharge. Retrim galley, salon and aft cabin including cabinetry. Fabricate new salon table. Create additional storage areas. Fair and paint internal fibreglass mouldings. Replace radar Install MFD Install Davits Install wing and davit mounted solar panels. Install watermaker Install below deck autopilot Remove 8x portlights to refurbish and rebed. Rebuild compression post base and replace compression post. Drop mast and fully refurbish including paint, lines and wiring. Replace anchor winch Replace chainplates Repair areas of rot in chainplate supports and bulkheads Repair some minor grounding damage to keel Make new companionway hatch. Reseal all deck fittings and fit new backing plates Touch up paint on topsides, repaint cove stripe. Add new name and registration decals. Clean polish and re-varnish everything inside and out. Refurbish dodger. Prep and apply antifoul + a bunch of other minor stuff. Started out as seal deck leaks, fix anchor well core, fit MFD at helm, fit new autopilot, replace stuffing gland packing, patch keel gouges and apply antifoul :-(
  20. toecutter

    E-nav on the cheap

    I've got an Intel NUC as an onboard Pc running directly off the 12vdc supply. The first unit I used was 12vdc rated and it would refuse to start if the input voltage exceeded about 13 volts. The next model I tried was input rated 19 volts but is happy as Larry running on the 12 volt (ish) supply. Because I'm a cheap skate, I only use second hand units but I notice the specs on some newer NUC models do actually have on input rated supply specifation of 12 to 19 vdc.
  21. toecutter

    New White Brightside yellowing

    They sure don't put that info on the tin.
  22. toecutter

    What Paint to Use?

    if your an amateur, single pack acrylic automotive paint is easy to spray, and you can add some clear over the top for extra protection. You need to buff it after spraying. If you know what you are doing or don't care about your health, a two pack polyurethane is pretty good and you wont need to polish it afterwards.
  23. toecutter

    New White Brightside yellowing

    Enamel paints can yellow if not exposed to light.
  24. toecutter

    My favorite boat repair tools.

    You know, it's kind of funny that you say that. I got mine as part of a kit I picked up for the right price during the previous refit and thought I'd have no use whatsoever for a tool I thought best suited for roofing screws. Anyway, gave it a decent crack and it was love at first trigger pull and it's companion drill has rarely been used since for screwing. I think the secret is the small 10.8V size. 12V and up are just too powerful and physically too large. In the smaller size though it just seems to fit the kind of screwing and unscrewing tasks to be found on a boat perfectly. I've got flat and philips bits, 1/4" and 3/8" socket adapters, allan key adaptors and even an attachment that's used to undo over-tight wing nuts. I've even used it in a pinch to drill holes when too lazy to go grab the drill. I just love the darned thing!
  25. toecutter

    My favorite boat repair tools.

    10.8v impact driver best thing ever for screws and small bolts. Say goodbye to galling!