toecutter

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Everything posted by toecutter

  1. toecutter

    Tide Rising 7 m at your place

    " Now go and check out the facts - which all come from validated sources - then come back and debate them like a grown up. "
  2. toecutter

    Tide Rising 7 m at your place

    You haven't hooked anyone. Shooting the messenger is the mantra of your type. Embarrassing attempts to besmirch the presenter within minutes of a posting is unequivocal proof that you're nothing more than a zealot. Besides, DeSmogBlog (you really should include your links with these things) is hardly going to be complimentary of anyone that presents as a skeptic in any form. Now go and check out the facts - which all come from validated sources - then come back and debate them like a grown up.
  3. No one can deny the visit got him closer to God.
  4. toecutter

    Tee Vee on a boat. Stoopid question

    Ba-Humbug! Don't listen to these guys. TV is great. TV with great sound is even better. Get a plug pack telly that runs on 12 volts and it will work fine plugged into the 12 volt supply. 24" is about the best combination of size and power consumption for most purposes. It'll have a good enough picture (although unlikely to be full HD), but crap sound. To fix that, either get one with bluetooth audio output built in or buy a cheap usb powered bluetooth converter off ebay and stick on it. Next, get hold of a decent bluetooth speaker and bingo! - cinematic experience on a boat. And anyone that says a laptop is better for movies has never experienced the above setup.
  5. toecutter

    West Systems Shelf Life (and other epoxies)

    Yes. For modesty purposes, I photoshopped a toenail onto the picture of the forcibly removed appendage.
  6. toecutter

    West Systems Shelf Life (and other epoxies)

    Good grief, yes! I've got a mangey old set that I use, but they were on the boat one time and I needed to do some glassing at home so I snuck into the house and borrowed the missus's brand new scales she uses to mix her hair dye concoction and who knew that mopping up spilled epoxy with acetone causes paint and numbers and plastic and stuff to dissolve??
  7. toecutter

    West Systems Shelf Life (and other epoxies)

    I was actually stating in my original post that I got sick of Wests, per se, and referred to over heating (and associated rapid kicking) of it compared to the other brands of epoxy I use. Now, I don't want to be critical of West epoxy, but IMHO it's not as good to apply as other brands when used within the environment in which I personally use the stuff. Some of their fillers are good, but fumed silica, ground glass and wood flour are a lot cheaper to buy directly. Mechanically, West's may, or may not, be better? My boats haven't fallen apart Gilligan's Island pancake glue style as yet, though, so I'll stick with what I use now, for now. Be that as it may, whilst epoxy is indeed a chemical reaction and not a catalytic one, I'll grant you that, try adding 10% more hardener to your mix in a tropical environment and see what happens.
  8. toecutter

    West Systems Shelf Life (and other epoxies)

    I was talking about the resin I use. Not yours. Newsflash. Adding more hardener than needed to epoxy causes it to kick faster. Try it sometime.
  9. toecutter

    West Systems Shelf Life (and other epoxies)

    If you're going to mix epoxy by weight (which I've always done) don't be like me and discover that the reason you always run out of hardener before resin after years and years of mixing epoxy is that quite often, the hardener is lighter in weight per a specific volume than the resin. In fact, the brand of resin I use these days has a 5:1 by volume mixing ration, but the needs to be mixed at a ratio of 100 grams resin to 17 grams hardener when measured by weight. AFAIK, Wests doesn't mention compensating for density for 5:1 mixes (although the 3:1 epoxy/hardener combos need to be mixed at 3.5:1 by weight), but I found that I run out of hardener sooner using West epoxy and always had issues with it overheating in cup much more so then the brand I now use even though I was using it at a 5:1 ratio by weight, too, at the time. This was actually the reason why I actually gave up on Wests in the first place. I got tired of running out of hardener and having my cup of epoxy getting steaming hot and kicking to soon.
  10. toecutter

    Songs/Groups that Suck but You Still Played Them

    40 years later this is still one of my faves and a regular on my playlists
  11. toecutter

    Change # posts per page????

    Thanks Mid. First the headphone jack and now this. Gotta love new and improved. Sooooo..... Is there a hack?
  12. toecutter

    Change # posts per page????

    Years and years ago I changed my settings to display 100 posts per page. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Fast forward to now and not so good (damn you youtube, high resolution imagery and posters that quote and requote and requote posts containing all the above). Problem is, I can't seem to find the setting to change my posts per page preferences anywhere. Help?
  13. toecutter

    Routing wires thru thus the deck at the mast

    There's a number of alternatives. You can possibly run three smaller wires through a blue seas clam if you wrapped them in a self amalgamating tape where they pass through the clam, but I think the Stranstut multi-deck seal is reasonable solution if you want the wires to pass through individually. https://www.amazon.com/Scanstrut-Multi-Deck-Seal-Multiple/dp/B00A8OM80I
  14. toecutter

    Mackay Yacht Club QLD Australia

    The sailing club doesn''t have a clubhouse anymore but they should still be active. You might have to chase them up on the Internet if you can find them. They used to do Wednesday nights and weekend races out the front of the Harbour so maybe they still do. The Whitsunday sailing club at Airlie would be a far better bet, but it's about a two hour drive away. Tourist things. Spots to visit are Cape Hillsborough with the roos on the beach at sunrise, Eungella with rainforest walks and platypi, Hay Point and it's lookout over the coal terminal and anchored ships, the Sarina Sugar Shed for stuff related to the sugar industry and rum. The marina is nice for a feed and drink, and the southern breakwater is a bit of an attraction to walk along. If you have a weekend spare I think the best place to head is Airlie Beach for the day or even the weekend.
  15. toecutter

    Vimeo and Youtube music copyright

    Here's a hack. Download an instrumental version of a song. Try it in Shazam to see if it gets identified. If it doesn't, slap it in your video.
  16. toecutter

    What went wrong with my tooside painting?

    In a nutshell, your paint isn't thinned enough or you are letting it dry out too quickly before tipping. When I used roll and tip on my boat years ago, I found that I needed to use foam rollers (after testing the paint thinners don't disintegrate them!) and the best natural bristle brush for tipping I could afford (actually two - see below). Next, I found that I had to add a lot more thinners then suggested (but I was using industrial linear polyurtethane paint, so not a known paint for rolling and tipping, and it was late spring in the tropics at the time) until the paint had the look and feel of milk (it was white paint). In fact the paint was so thin, I ended up doing six coats instead of the usual two or three, but I attribute that to the type of paint used and it's suitability to roll and tip in the prevailing weather. To apply, you need to work the paint with the roller in random directions to prevent the lap marks. The result should be a coating free of stroke marks, but full of tiny air bubbles. The brush is then dragged, clean and dry and lightly in a single direction to basically pop the bubbles and smooth out the paint. You should start by tipping along the line of your previously tipped paint, and finish at the wet edge of the new paint. The reason for the two brushes is that your helper can clean the brush in solvent and allow it to dry whilst you use the alternative brush because after a while, the brush will gather paint and can start to drag lines in the wet paint as you tip. The general suggestion is that one person should paint while another tips. I found that the best method for working fast is to have one person roll and tip, whilst the helper keeps the tipping brush clean and adds more thinner to the paint tray as the thinner evaporates out. As mentioned, this was a job painted in the tropics near the start of summer, so this might not be as big a problem where you are.
  17. toecutter

    You know someone really screwed up when...

    No long after we brought our boat, some fellow at a marina we were at wondered up one day and said "I know that boat". He claimed to know it from an area at least 800 km away and quite a few years beforehand. He then proceeded to say that "So and so owned it at the time and drilled a hole through the hull when installing a new head". I had no idea who "so and so" was, but that didn't deter him from telling the story, at length, of the day this incident happened and the panic that ensued. Of course, I just nodded and smiled thinking that this guy's got the wrong boat. Many years later, we're replacing the head. What do we find? One extremely rough smashed/cut-out section of the liner immediately under the head that appeared as if it had been done in great haste along with one very poorly filled and patched quarter inch diameter hole. The boat was on the hardstand at the time, so it was easy to confirm that the hole did, in fact, exit the outside of the hull once a bit of antifoul was ground away in the general area.
  18. toecutter

    Taiwanese Opening Portlight Install

    My fibreglass boat has 8 similar portlights installed in the hull. Great big bronze things. The outside flange on them does line up so they install by bolting through. The three months I've spent replacing the wood trim of the salon of the boat is testament to how stupid it is to seal the portlights from the inside once the sealing give way. But I digress; here's an alternative idea, if you have the room. The portlights are thick anyway, so install a teak or synthetic frame on the inside of the cabin. With sufficient thickness you can screw your screws into the combined fibreglass/wood just as if it were a wood boat. You can use a good polysulfide sealant/adhesive (but not that adhesive it can never, ever be disassembled again!) to seal everything up. When I rebedded my portlights, I used a bead of butyl tape around the frame as well so that it would compress and fill the void between the cutout and the portlight on insertion.
  19. toecutter

    Severe Hull Damage

    It'd be a great deal if you were getting paid the money to dispose of it. If you were to buy it, here's how it would pan out: It'd take 3 to 4 x the cost to fix it compared to any original estimate. It's take 3 to 4 x the time to fix it compared to any original estimate. During that time, the effects would not be subtle. Most likely, you're wanting to buy this boat because you are on a limited budget. Every waking moment of your life will centre around either working your job for income or working on the boat. The money will pour out as fast as it comes in. Wiring, engines, joinery, structural defects etc won't take weeks to complete. They'll take months. And months. And months. If you're persistent, you'll stick at for long enough that you'll get to splash it. At that point you'll have a boat that was no cheaper, and arguably no better, than if you'd just saved the pennies from the day you brought it and then purchased a ready to go similar model on the day you eventually splash. On the other hand, If you fail to persist with this huge project, you will eventually dispose of it for cents on the dollar. However, if you're not really that interested in sailing and have nothing better to do with your life or finances for the next three to six years, go for it!
  20. toecutter

    Thickening polyester resin

    Talc is the usual stuff to use, but epoxy thickeners will work.
  21. toecutter

    Rusty stainless

    Go to a welding supplies shop and buy some "pickling paste" for stainless steel. This is a pretty nasty acid, so use with caution, but it'll beat the pants off any other hardware store chemical for passivating the material. After treatment with the paste, polish or electropolish to requirements. On another note, keeping stainless steel at an elevated temperature for too long causes carbide to precipitate out of the alloy which reduces it's corrosion resistance. Avoid holding the material at high temperatures for too long and choose "ELC" (extra low carbon) grades of material. These grades are designated with an "L" postfix e.g. 316L
  22. It's not a blog. The guy was/is the publisher of a low budget cruising mag. If you browse through copies from around 2012 or so, he progressively reports on his chemical illness being caused by his boat building activities, then to pesticides and maybe other stuff and finally government agencies trying to kill him. http://www.thecoastalpassage.com You can start here (page 4) and move backwards and forwards through editions to get the full picture.