sailak

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About sailak

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  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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    AK

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  1. sailak

    Might have fried the starter motor.....

    Yeah.. repair/rebuild is possible on those. Also the starter is a pretty common part and can be bought new after-market for really cheap.. less than $100 cheap or a little more if you want some quality.
  2. sailak

    Alaska earthquake

    Must have been an interesting ride up there. Does anyone know what that tower is designed to survive? Google won't tell me. Must not be using the right words. San Fran apparently is designed to remain operational up to a 7.5 magnitude. I have to imagine the ANC tower is at least that considering the old one collapsed in 1964. Sounds like they didn't have anything bolted down up there.. aka not stowed for sea. They left a couple planes to fend for themselves going CTAF.
  3. They are trying pretty hard here: "The tanker's use of deck lights after departure also meant that the crew on 'KNM Helge Ingstad' were unable to spot the navigation lights on 'Sola TS'."
  4. if we are doing videos...
  5. While senior leadership always takes most of the responsibility it is the character of all that sit around the wardroom table that impact the operations of a ship. There are so many more enlisted on-board that a few outliers won't greatly affect the character of the crew, but with only a few officers on board each one can contribute significantly. Last I heard officers on the exchange program assumed full responsibilities of their post, and no we don't know what the 6th fleet guy was doing at the time but it will be interesting to find out, if we get to. Maybe they were assigned to engineering, or in the galley inspiring the Norwegian cooks to make some fine American cuisine. Regardless, my take is that eliminating the need for basic navigation and to remember phone numbers or street addresses for that matter is not going to benefit humanity in the long run. Time for some more automation perhaps.
  6. U.S. Navy officer could face questions in Norwegian frigate collision
  7. sailak

    Help: Friend's Dad is Lost at Sea

    I'm not so sure spending your life studying human behavior would help one's sanity.
  8. sailak

    This is going a bit far

    Panic room? Get in the boat! Genius really. <insert apology here if that was the actual plan>
  9. sailak

    Epoxy/aluminum long term bonding

    FWIW When I bought my boat around 2005 it had a quarter sized hole corroded right through the boom where a bronze shackle had been in contact with the alu. I wire brushed the crater, filled and faired over with MarineTex. It currently shows no sign of failure or loss of adhesion, although it is only just filling a hole. My expectation at the time was it would only last a few years and my surface prep was minimal at best.
  10. sailak

    Best cold weather sailing gloves?

    The Atlas gloves work in Alaska, year round. I make sure to have at least two pair of Atlas gloves, and also a set of poly or silk liners. Keeping them dry is key so having a standby pair and some method to dry them out is important if you are going to need them for more than a few hours. I use a 2" PVC T shoved into one of my Webasto air outlets as a glove/boot dryer.
  11. As the slight risk of blasphemy... For $50-$100 you can buy a very capable 12V, compact winch. I have been using a $50 masterlock version to yard around tree parts in my back woods for years now. I haven't tried, but suspect it could be marinized with little effort. It does get used hard and put away wet and really doesn't look the worse for it. The switch assembly is for sure the weak link but I haven't had any issues. The galvy cable could easily be replaced with synthetic. The motor is probably identical to the marine versions for 2000% more and is weathersealed just fine as it is.
  12. sailak

    2 x 25A => 50A circuit?

    Look up the breaker "trip curve." If it is anything like the UL489 breakers you see in industrial environments (many Bluesea breakers under this standard) then 36 amps can be drawn for 120 seconds on a 25 amp breaker. In other words, you need two shits, at the same time, that are both 18 amp shits, that both take 2 minutes to flush to trip the breaker. The wiring will be fine since each is pulling an 18 amp shit.
  13. First time ever test nationwide... Did they think this one out? I am imagining bumper to bumper traffic when everyones cellphone goes apeshit and everyone goes to look at the same time. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-usa-trump-alerts/trump-administration-to-send-u-s-cellphones-a-test-alert-on-thursday-idUSKCN1LV0N6
  14. sailak

    2 x 25A => 50A circuit?

    I'll take that as sloppy wording and not technically correct, my apologies. The 80%/125% rules tend to apply to the wire, and since these are coordinated systems then require sizing the OCPD accordingly. These cases don't necessarily apply here but: NFPA 70 210.3 and 210.19 Could imply 125% (this also ends up in other sections of the code, 690 for example) NFPA 79 mentions 125% for the circuit conductors many times. This standard isn't very broad and is a little ambiguous, but it is in there. You could infer 80% from manufacturers derating factors: (diversity factors, more than 4 devices then you are less than 80% for an Eaton brand UL 489 breaker anyway) and at least the common Bluesea breakers are manufactured under the UL 489 standard. There is also temperature derating that could apply. UL Labeling standard: "Unless otherwise marked for continuous use at 100 percent of its current rating, a circuit breaker is intended for use at no more than 80 percent of its rated current where in normal operation the load will continue for three hours or more." (hope the head isn't on for more than 3 hours!) For the fun of it I tried the Bluesea circuit wizard, and for an 18 amp load at 20 feet, with 800CCA it recommends 10AWG and a 32 Amp breaker. Again, a lot of this is based on continuous loads and isn't the standard in the case of a boat head.. Honest question here: when would you select a breaker this close to the load current? I could see special cases where you are trying to protect the device but in my experience this ends up resulting in nuisance trips and eventually wearing out the breaker. The breaker in this case is generally there to protect the wire against overload and against short circuits. on a boat anyway 12AWG is good for around 30 amps according to ABYC, so a 25 or 30 amp breaker seems like the best fit. In this specific case would a 30 amp breaker not provide better service than a 20? I suppose if the 20's are working fine then go with them, and sure put both heads on 1 breaker. Its a rather pedantic topic but I'd be interested in a long term follow up. Edit: thinking about the breakers got me distracted. The "right" answer is to follow the instructions from the manufacture of the head, no? Here is an Example from Raritan, 18 Amps
  15. sailak

    2 x 25A => 50A circuit?

    By many standards 18 amps on a 20 amp breaker is already too much anyway, but for short time periods it won't cause a problem depending on the breaker. A load like that probably should be on a 25 or 30 (18A x 125%) depending on the wire used. Do the current ones ever trip?