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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

sailak

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About sailak

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  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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  1. You can modify G/Flex to where it might hold threads, but not the best product for that. I've had excellent luck tapping things like G-10, Phenolic and pull-truded laminates and marginal luck tapping anything else with glass in it. Here is a proposal for cast in place: Apply mold release. Paint fastener with thickened 105 based epoxy and let mostly cure. Then insert into G/Flex. Maybe get best of both worlds?
  2. I downhill ski once every 5 years or so and was really confused the last time when they asked if I wanted to rent a helmet. My first thought was "for what?" Then on the slope I noticed awkwardly that I was nearly the only one without a helmet. After looking at the new adventure sports type helmets I have to admit they look pretty comfortable and could no doubt could save your life. Also makes a good mounting spot for the Go Pro. I've taken some really good blows throughout my life from the boom and occasionally a flogging clew. Its hard to figure how my perspective might be different if a helmet had taken those for me, but perhaps a little less respect for the forces involved. I'm a voc ed teacher now and having a hell of a time getting the concept of height, momentum, centrifugal force etc across to my younger students. Just make causal comparison of todays safe playground equipment compared to the diamond plate and tube steel, and concrete sewer pipe playgrounds most of us over 30 had. Yeah, there were broken arms, blood and lots of bruises but there was real learning to be had from those experiences. And I'm pretty sure I drank from the garden hose and didn't get my first bike helmet until I was 20. Hard to say what an acceptable level of risk is. My kids wear their helmet biking and skiing.
  3. The broker told me I could hire anyone I wanted but one guy... so I hired that guy. Dennis Smith.. Wonder if he is still around?
  4. I've installed one depth sounder and one fish finder by simply gluing them to the hull. No issues other than some slight degradation of the signal from the fish finder (mostly use it for depth anyway). I researched the tube concept but it seemed necessary. I recall you use something like pure mineral oil.
  5. Yes Seward AK. Going off the Interlux literature it appears that the hull needs to be really, truly dry. This is the part that is getting me: How dry is dry? This boat has been in the water for at least 2 decades nearly continuously. I have a moisture meter and it is showing constant and increasing saturation towards the bottom. I haven't formally started logging readings, but that is my next step. What I would consider extraordinary measures to mean tenting and force drying the hull. At $0.21 / kWhr for electric it won't be fun. Also removing the chopped strand would qualify on the extraordinary scale for what the boat is worth.
  6. I have my 40 year old 30 footer out trying to figure on what the best course of action and best value is. The bottom hasn't had any work other than anti-fouling slapped on for probably 20 years and had build up really thick. I had the hull blasted which revealed some failed gel-coat, lots of pitting, some hideous prior owner repairs and lots of areas completely devoid of any gelcoat with only chopped strands present. Also gashes from a couple groundings and not so great old blister repairs that I had knowledge of from when the boat was in the tropics. The yard manager remarked that it was in much better condition than most of the sailboats he hauls, which is horrifying if true. It appears at somepoint a barrier coat might have been done, but this would date back to the 1990's. Regardless it is safe to say the hull is pretty wet, saturated, but there were no new blisters. After about 2 weeks of sanding washing the hull seemed dry enough around the dings, so I patched everything going into the roving with biaxial glass and laminating resin. (maybe I should have waited?) Most of what I have done looks good at least and didn't require much sanding to fair. I used thickened resin and removed the wax, then sanded. I was planning on using 3M filler as I have had good luck with that in the past. After careful review of Interlux literature I have come to the firm conclusion that there is no chance of getting barrier coat on this hull without extraordinary measures this season. What alternatives are there? Basically I would like to seal up the chopped strand stuff, fair the hull and gelcoat pits, and make sure the bottom paint has something to stick to. Boat stays in year round. Water is cold and osmotic blistering doesn't look like it has been an issue. I really do fancy the idea of a nice barrier coat but it just doesn't seem realistic ..
  7. G/Flex is fully compatible with other west system products (check the product literature). I've had really good results using it with uncured west 105 either using the 105 system on wood or wet out and G/Flex on top or using G/Flex on metals and plastic surfaces (really excellent product for this) and 105 layup on top of that. I used these techniques for fiberglass and PVC plumbing systems used in aquaculture that otherwise were difficult to bond to and when I rebuilt my rudder. Basically I'd try mixing up some 105 based resin and hardener for the wetout of the wood and then switch to G/Flex for the rest of the work. Don't mess with G/Flex other than maybe fillers.
  8. Get a cheap laser tacho from internet. Full throttle should get you around 3200 RPM. The injectors are adjusted by shims to open at 2560-2702 psi. (as per workshop manual) This is easily checked by putting them on a test stand and is part of the rebuild procedure. If you had them rebuilt I would ask for paperwork showing opening pressure and spray pattern for each injector, as well as noting any adjustments that needed to be made. For what it costs to work on these each injector deserves at least this much.
  9. I'm in the middle of a well overdue bottom job. I helped a guy with his electrical so he lent me his Festool dust collector and 5" sander. That thing is great! My shop vac and Bosch RO were getting the job done (and the Bosch is a little lighter) but the Festool allows for on the fly switching between rotary and RO and does a better job collecting dust with less hand and wrist fatigue. I filled in a thru hull (just a 1") last night. Used an 4.5" angle grinder with 40 grit flap disk. Wow that was fast! I ended up with a nice taper but it made a lot of dust. I was indoctrinated early into the religion of epoxy and have seldom strayed, however this time the local glass guy convinced my that polyester was just fine for what I was doing. I have to say working with polyester went pretty well and I am very satisfied with the results. I had very little sagging or runs and was able to complete the job in one evening instead of probably days with epoxy. I put two layers of cloth in the inside of the hull to keep the sanding dust out. I used a hybrid approach to filling, using a large patch first but only 3/4 of the hole size. I then filled it with alternating layers of cloth and 45/45 until the final layer of cloth was flush with the hull. Used a roller which is essential. I've done a lot of glass but don't recall ever patching a thru hull. It looked really good and will require hardly any fairing. So many theories out there.... I'm happy anyway. Back to sanding... 60 grit... Festool.. Respirator, Tyvek, and often omitted Ear Plugs!!!
  10. I've been pretty happy with my Lowrance 5 that is marketed as a fish-finder. I bought it since it was cheap and came with all of North American charts. I glued the included transom transducer to the inside of the hull which works ok for both depth and sonar. It is missing some key navigational features like route planning (at least I haven't figured that out), tides and currents but otherwise functions fine as a chart-plotter and is networkable. It is quick to acquire signal, accurate, easy to use, easy to pull the headunit off for storage. For the $300 range I have no complaints. If I was going on a passage I would probably just use my laptop anyway.
  11. Single line reefing working fine: pics or it didn't happen!
  12. The Blue Sea VSM has a bilge counter feature. After I installed the VSM and was quickly made aware of how much my boat was pumping I invested in a mechanical shaft seal. Amazing how those little drips added up. Also, went from a new bilge pump every 8 months to a year to the same one now for the last 5 years. Pump is controlled by the Johnson Controls version of the electronic switch which I have been quite happy with. Only failure mode was when my bilge got a little dirty and I was in a decent seaway. Everything frothed up down there and the foam was tricking the switch into running. Solution was just to clean the bilge
  13. We used harken self-tailers for the crowders in the spawning raceways. Worked great. No idea exactly how much force it took to convince 100's of adult king salmon that their time was up but the guys running the crowder usually had some decent biceps.
  14. I'm totally hooked on "Corrosion Block" and the Volvo-Penta branded equivalent Duraplus Corrosion Shield (what I can get in town).
  15. Just because you have cleaned the surface does not mean the piece is even remotely okay to use. This is could easily be a case of advanced stress corrosion cracking. Stainless like this will fail without warning or much force if any at all. You can detect crevice/stress corrosion after cleaning usually with a magnifying glass or dye penetrate. If present the piece must be condemned, there is no reasonable repair possible. Much has been written on the topic.