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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

sailak

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About sailak

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  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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    AK

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  1. How to remove First 40.7 Rudder

    No idea as to the specifics of your boat but I was able to remove and install my rudder and prop shaft in water. The holes weren't big enough to cause a huge amount of water. I just had someone standby with a Truplug and shove it in as the shaft/stock dropped out of the boat. Boat sat with the plugs keeping her afloat for a few weeks. I put some blocking behind them, but they worked as advertised and didn't let in a drip. You are only looking at a foot or two of head pressure and yeah it seems like a lot of water but it isn't anything you can't stop with a hand.
  2. Percentages in other bases than ten

    Oh, and 50% (0.50 base 10 decimal) is numerically equivalent to binary 0.1 and 1% is 0.00000010100100. Merry Christmas, and yeah lets keep % for accountants and base 10.
  3. Percentages in other bases than ten

    mikewof basically said it but "%" is just a way of expressing a ratio with the common denominator being 100. The percentage 50% is really 1/2 or 0.5 with 1, the multiplicative identity, being the whole. Trig functions work like this, i.e. SIN(45 deg) is about 0.707 or 70.7% of the length of the radius of a unit circle... Percent is one of those this people just say, mostly understand, and never really think about. But percentages are really just for communicating our calculations to non math people. What is important is the ratio between a quantity and the whole, and if we reduce everything down to the multiplicative identity then this is 1. Forget the number 100 because 10010 in base 18 is 32418 and that just won't make things easy for us. Percent is very 10-centric, so I am going to say percent for this conversation is the decimal value of some ratio with the decimal place shifted two places to the right. 100% in binary is 12, in octal is 18 in hex is 116, duodecimal is 112, so it follows in base 18 it would also be 1. If we take % to mean shift the decimal two places then: 10 would be 18 in base 18, so: ¥ / 10 = 0.¥ or ¥ 0 %18 or about 78% in base 10. and if we are just shifting the decimal places 2 spots 50%10 is 90%18 but what is really spooky is that 100%18 is 100%10 but 33%10 is 60%18 So what is 90%10 in %18?
  4. Train crashes onto I5 Seattle

    fixed. Many errors, on many levels and predictable/predicted. After the 2015 wreck I recall they implemented engineer cams. Wonder if they had that on this state-of-the-art high speed rail link and if we will ever see the footage? Real shame on so many levels too.
  5. Open letter to Microsoft/Windows

    Run windows 10 decrapifier, Anti-Beacon, Classic Shell, don't use cortana, "apps" and edge it isn't super bad. Still annoying as hell. Block all microsoft domains on your router, just remember to free them up once and a while to check for updates, but at your convenience. Now I had two mobile devices with Windows 8 and they were absolutely horrible. Tried to update both to 10 since they won't run 7 and it totally bricked one of the machines. The other refused to update. Either way I used over 30 gigs of data. What a waste.
  6. Polishing stainless welds

    I don't know if it is really better but or if it is just marine $pecial but I have had really good luck over the years with WICHINOX PASSIVATING CLEANING PASTE. I've used this on all of the TIG welds I have done and wherever I have done any machining, as well as for halting corrosion in it's tracks. I usually polish with generic metal polish, rinse and then use Wichinox as directed.
  7. AIS to wifi without VHF

    I use the dAISy. Works great. I get targets 10-15 miles out easy enough with it. Not too shabby for $60. Only had maybe a dozen targets at once so couldn't speak to how well it does in more congested waters.
  8. I wouldn't bill an electric hot water heater as fantastic, but during my recent bathroom remodel I used a Rheem unit that was intended only for hand washing for showering. Used that for 3 months. Wasn't the best in the world but the showers were warm enough. What do you need hot water for? If you had 50 degree water in the tank you get 25 degrees at rated flow, and 75 degree water would be much more conformable to wash hands in. But throttle down on the flow and you get much more of a rise for washing dishes in. Just a thought. 150 amps on a battery bank isn't much even over a few minutes. My boat used to have a microwave that we would use for 10 or 15 minutes off the inverter (120-150 amps DC), and that was before I upgraded my batteries and alternator; and my setup is extremely modest by most standards. Again, are we drawing a bath here or washing hands and dishes?
  9. I'm seriously wondering if electric might be the way to go. Low flow, but: https://www.grainger.com/product/10G720 15 Amps at 120 volts... Yeah you wouldn't fill a bathtub with this but doing dishes or even a quick shower? Modern boats nearly always have huge alternators, batteries and inverters. I don't see anything wrong with running one of these from a battery for occasional use. Your you thermal efficiency is crap but who really cares? Its hot water on a boat.. I'm thinking about one of these for my travel trailer. Propane one is twice as much $$ and noisy. 15 amps can come from a small generator or large inverter, or shorepower. Simplicity and safety benefits are huge as long as electrical is up to the task.
  10. caption contest

    Travel lift crew: "Going to need to clean the slings after this..."
  11. 1/2" seacocks?

    One caveat with the marelon stuff is a lot of the are straight threads and all the bronze stuff is taper (the actual bronze thu-hull parts are straight unless you they are specifically tapered thread). Straight and taper do not make a good seal and can't be mixed. Yeah there are a lot of marleon fittings out there. I put some on my head system and I don't like them. Handles feel like they will snap any moment and the barb fittings are hard to find in the right size and frustrating to install or replace. Bronze has lasted 40 years so what is the problem? The galvanic issues are really non-existent unless you have a metal boat or your boat has greater issues. I replaced my 1/2" engine intake with a proper 3/4" seacock a few years ago and couldn't be happier with it. Especially sitting right next to the engine.... if it ever did come off it's mounts in a bad knockdown or worse the 3/4" seacock looks a hell of a lot better in bronze than plastic... Marlon fanboys you are fine, but for my 40 year old boat I'm putting in bronze. That should last for at least another 40 years.....
  12. Pilothouse For Puget Sound, $40K Or Less

    Trust me I have nothing against racing slow boats!!! Certainly not stupid, or dumb, or anything like that... but the upwind leg is going to be.... well interesting! If I was organizing it I would make sure it was reaching only, maybe a close reach, maybe a downwind finish. If they get off the ground I would probably sign up. Is there such a thing anywhere? Getting the most from a boat/design is certainly one of the marks of a good sailor. I sail around with tell tales affixed to my headsails and main, use outhaul, vang and change my genoa car positions for each tack, tune the rig. Clean bottom is absolutely critical. On a Rawson 30... yep. Keeping up with bleach bottles that do none of those things, generally not a problem. Now what was stupid is when I tried to race my old O'Day 25 keel/center-boarder. Got totally wiped out on the upwind leg. All other points of sail were great but going up against Cals and Santanas with a vaguely foil shaped piece of iron or lead was a non-starter for that boat no matter how well it was sailed. I had a decent set of sails for that boat too.
  13. Pilothouse For Puget Sound, $40K Or Less

    I wouldn't argue with that! I wouldn't ever consider any sort of a bouy race as the tacking performance is pretty dismal, but improves significantly with the addition of diesel. I didn't consider a less than $40k pilot house thread would include racing, but hey why not? In Seward the Island Packet crowd was talking about starting their own racing class... pretty funny.
  14. Pilothouse For Puget Sound, $40K Or Less

    As a Rawson owner I won't praise their sailing characteristics as being great (better than a Gulf) but all of the boats in this thread are SLOW! Some a little better than others but not by much. No replacement for LWL. Last summer I shadowed a Catalina 40 downwind over the course of a 12 mile run. Back at the dock her owner was real proud of beating me by about 5 minutes... yeah, um I mean yeah your boat is so much faster than mine The Rawson does a pretty good job at keeping up with any of the bleach bottle fleet and will tick off 100-120 mile days without any special effort. But overall most of the boats pictured in this thread will likely sail better in nearly all respects compared to 1959 Bill Garden design with concrete and iron for ballast, and a deck 1.5 inches thick. If Gulfs and even Pacific Seacrafts are options I wouldn't rule out Rawsons. Granted this was a newb created thread but for $40k or less there are a lot of $80k or more boats pictured... There is a Cooper at my dock owned by a very fastidious dude. Looks like a nice boat. Personally I have always like the Corbin 39 but those sell north of the OP preferred price.