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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About sailak

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  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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  1. Polishing stainless welds

    I don't know if it is really better but or if it is just marine $pecial but I have had really good luck over the years with WICHINOX PASSIVATING CLEANING PASTE. I've used this on all of the TIG welds I have done and wherever I have done any machining, as well as for halting corrosion in it's tracks. I usually polish with generic metal polish, rinse and then use Wichinox as directed.
  2. AIS to wifi without VHF

    I use the dAISy. Works great. I get targets 10-15 miles out easy enough with it. Not too shabby for $60. Only had maybe a dozen targets at once so couldn't speak to how well it does in more congested waters.
  3. I wouldn't bill an electric hot water heater as fantastic, but during my recent bathroom remodel I used a Rheem unit that was intended only for hand washing for showering. Used that for 3 months. Wasn't the best in the world but the showers were warm enough. What do you need hot water for? If you had 50 degree water in the tank you get 25 degrees at rated flow, and 75 degree water would be much more conformable to wash hands in. But throttle down on the flow and you get much more of a rise for washing dishes in. Just a thought. 150 amps on a battery bank isn't much even over a few minutes. My boat used to have a microwave that we would use for 10 or 15 minutes off the inverter (120-150 amps DC), and that was before I upgraded my batteries and alternator; and my setup is extremely modest by most standards. Again, are we drawing a bath here or washing hands and dishes?
  4. I'm seriously wondering if electric might be the way to go. Low flow, but: https://www.grainger.com/product/10G720 15 Amps at 120 volts... Yeah you wouldn't fill a bathtub with this but doing dishes or even a quick shower? Modern boats nearly always have huge alternators, batteries and inverters. I don't see anything wrong with running one of these from a battery for occasional use. Your you thermal efficiency is crap but who really cares? Its hot water on a boat.. I'm thinking about one of these for my travel trailer. Propane one is twice as much $$ and noisy. 15 amps can come from a small generator or large inverter, or shorepower. Simplicity and safety benefits are huge as long as electrical is up to the task.
  5. caption contest

    Travel lift crew: "Going to need to clean the slings after this..."
  6. 1/2" seacocks?

    One caveat with the marelon stuff is a lot of the are straight threads and all the bronze stuff is taper (the actual bronze thu-hull parts are straight unless you they are specifically tapered thread). Straight and taper do not make a good seal and can't be mixed. Yeah there are a lot of marleon fittings out there. I put some on my head system and I don't like them. Handles feel like they will snap any moment and the barb fittings are hard to find in the right size and frustrating to install or replace. Bronze has lasted 40 years so what is the problem? The galvanic issues are really non-existent unless you have a metal boat or your boat has greater issues. I replaced my 1/2" engine intake with a proper 3/4" seacock a few years ago and couldn't be happier with it. Especially sitting right next to the engine.... if it ever did come off it's mounts in a bad knockdown or worse the 3/4" seacock looks a hell of a lot better in bronze than plastic... Marlon fanboys you are fine, but for my 40 year old boat I'm putting in bronze. That should last for at least another 40 years.....
  7. Pilothouse For Puget Sound, $40K Or Less

    Trust me I have nothing against racing slow boats!!! Certainly not stupid, or dumb, or anything like that... but the upwind leg is going to be.... well interesting! If I was organizing it I would make sure it was reaching only, maybe a close reach, maybe a downwind finish. If they get off the ground I would probably sign up. Is there such a thing anywhere? Getting the most from a boat/design is certainly one of the marks of a good sailor. I sail around with tell tales affixed to my headsails and main, use outhaul, vang and change my genoa car positions for each tack, tune the rig. Clean bottom is absolutely critical. On a Rawson 30... yep. Keeping up with bleach bottles that do none of those things, generally not a problem. Now what was stupid is when I tried to race my old O'Day 25 keel/center-boarder. Got totally wiped out on the upwind leg. All other points of sail were great but going up against Cals and Santanas with a vaguely foil shaped piece of iron or lead was a non-starter for that boat no matter how well it was sailed. I had a decent set of sails for that boat too.
  8. Pilothouse For Puget Sound, $40K Or Less

    I wouldn't argue with that! I wouldn't ever consider any sort of a bouy race as the tacking performance is pretty dismal, but improves significantly with the addition of diesel. I didn't consider a less than $40k pilot house thread would include racing, but hey why not? In Seward the Island Packet crowd was talking about starting their own racing class... pretty funny.
  9. Pilothouse For Puget Sound, $40K Or Less

    As a Rawson owner I won't praise their sailing characteristics as being great (better than a Gulf) but all of the boats in this thread are SLOW! Some a little better than others but not by much. No replacement for LWL. Last summer I shadowed a Catalina 40 downwind over the course of a 12 mile run. Back at the dock her owner was real proud of beating me by about 5 minutes... yeah, um I mean yeah your boat is so much faster than mine The Rawson does a pretty good job at keeping up with any of the bleach bottle fleet and will tick off 100-120 mile days without any special effort. But overall most of the boats pictured in this thread will likely sail better in nearly all respects compared to 1959 Bill Garden design with concrete and iron for ballast, and a deck 1.5 inches thick. If Gulfs and even Pacific Seacrafts are options I wouldn't rule out Rawsons. Granted this was a newb created thread but for $40k or less there are a lot of $80k or more boats pictured... There is a Cooper at my dock owned by a very fastidious dude. Looks like a nice boat. Personally I have always like the Corbin 39 but those sell north of the OP preferred price.
  10. That will buff right out

    Why is this thread still alive? Its like a little funny, but not really.. sorta just a little sad, but not that either. Desperate need of tits. anyways... Buy and well found sail-away example, the same vintage on Yachtworld for $65k. Swap hull ID's. You would come out way ahead and maybe even make a few $1000 on resale in the right market. (But seriously don't). I owned a Ford F-250 that was like that. Original truck was totaled or some such thing and over the course of armature repairs and cab swaps the original VIN was pretty much lost. Never did figure out exactly what year that thing was!
  11. That will buff right out

    If the deck was good you could bury this in the back yard and make a reasonable mother-in-law cabin or hell, maybe a good bug-out cabin in the woods somewhere. People are doing it with airliners, why not hunters?
  12. Might sound crazy, but if you have a 120 Volt PSW inverter you can get a 120 x 24 VAC transformer (door bell transformer would work, but a small $50 control power transformer would be better, there are some plug in ones for $15 to $20). Then, get a 24VAC Solenoid valves. Actually I bet you can just replace the coils on your existing valves. Using AC gives you the advantage of inductive reactance. When the valves close the air gap decreases which increases X_L and dramatically decreases current. With DC there is no such thing and the resistance of the wire rules the day. 24VAC coils are extremely common in HVAC and industrial applications for this reason. I have some little solenoids and inverters laying around, maybe I'll do an experiment today. With a small inverter this might actually be less than 2 amps. Do NOT try this with a MSW inverter.
  13. DC control panel.

    2.5 Amps isn't going to heat up 16 gauge wire... For the OP this worst case would be 1/4 Watt over 10 feet of wire. A hamster needs something like 2.8 Watts so this would be about 1/12th of a hamsters heat output, maximum. There is an advantage to using heavier wire for small loads, and that is mechanical strength. Properly crimped, the terminals will be much stronger. Sometimes that can actually matter. In industry where there are actually real standards that are enforced we use 'coordinated protection' where usually the breaker's only job is to protect the wiring with some other device, fuses, relays, maybe another breaker protect the device or motor.
  14. Day two: we ended up splitting the strings and charging separately. Tested all the batteries with an electronic analyzer and all of the house batteries passed but the start batteries were hosed. Thinking about it a little, on my boat I have a 210 amp hour bank that occasionally gets run all the way down and I use a 10 amp Guest encapsulated charger to bring that all the way back. The Guest has been doing it's thing for 12 years no problems at all. Proportionally my install is almost as bad, but the majority of the time if I come back with a totally drained house bank they get at least 1/2 hour on the 65 amp alternator before the charger takes over, and I have a few amps of solar. I have never had my batteries anywhere near as dead as this case. Dude just wanted to get a last whack at the Coho's and damn was it a nice couple days on the water for late September in Alaska! The middle two batteries in the tripled string were way worse off than the outer two, damn near zero. All of his wiring looked good, and all batteries were relatively new Interstates bought at the same time. In the off-grid living communities in Alaska it is generally considered poor practice to string up anymore than two in parallel unless you have individual battery management capability. That is common with lithium based cells but I haven't seen anything like that used for lead acid. I recommended we ditch the middle two and go with the 20 amp Marinco. Literally all they do is run the bilge pump until he gets a new inverter, even then??? All of the cabin lights are 120 volt AC! I suppose that would be ok but at least swap over to LED bulbs.
  15. DC control panel.

    My boat came with all the nav stuff running off one breaker of sufficient size that runs to a fuse block for all the electronics. I wouldn't have done it this way but no problems at all for 20 years or so. I think it is a 20 amp breaker and looks like 10 or 12 awg wire. This runs the VHF, GPS, Autopilot (wheel drive), Radar and handheld VHF charger. Each device and it's wiring is protected by an AGM fuse of the appropriate size. That is actually one of my pet peaves- replacing fuses with breakers. use the breaker as a switch but don't take the damn fuse out. The fuse specified by the manufacturer provides the exact level of overload protection the device needs. The breaker only protect the wire. Breakers can take much much longer to trip and aren't available in say 1.375 amps. Way too often I see people removing their factory fitted fuses thinking the breaker is good enough. Maybe that is where the fires come from! Even if I did redo my system I would still keep the fuse block.