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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

sailak

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About sailak

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  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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  1. I've been pretty happy with my Lowrance 5 that is marketed as a fish-finder. I bought it since it was cheap and came with all of North American charts. I glued the included transom transducer to the inside of the hull which works ok for both depth and sonar. It is missing some key navigational features like route planning (at least I haven't figured that out), tides and currents but otherwise functions fine as a chart-plotter and is networkable. It is quick to acquire signal, accurate, easy to use, easy to pull the headunit off for storage. For the $300 range I have no complaints. If I was going on a passage I would probably just use my laptop anyway.
  2. Single line reefing working fine: pics or it didn't happen!
  3. The Blue Sea VSM has a bilge counter feature. After I installed the VSM and was quickly made aware of how much my boat was pumping I invested in a mechanical shaft seal. Amazing how those little drips added up. Also, went from a new bilge pump every 8 months to a year to the same one now for the last 5 years. Pump is controlled by the Johnson Controls version of the electronic switch which I have been quite happy with. Only failure mode was when my bilge got a little dirty and I was in a decent seaway. Everything frothed up down there and the foam was tricking the switch into running. Solution was just to clean the bilge
  4. We used harken self-tailers for the crowders in the spawning raceways. Worked great. No idea exactly how much force it took to convince 100's of adult king salmon that their time was up but the guys running the crowder usually had some decent biceps.
  5. I'm totally hooked on "Corrosion Block" and the Volvo-Penta branded equivalent Duraplus Corrosion Shield (what I can get in town).
  6. Just because you have cleaned the surface does not mean the piece is even remotely okay to use. This is could easily be a case of advanced stress corrosion cracking. Stainless like this will fail without warning or much force if any at all. You can detect crevice/stress corrosion after cleaning usually with a magnifying glass or dye penetrate. If present the piece must be condemned, there is no reasonable repair possible. Much has been written on the topic.
  7. Has Washington Post published the "Secret" report or are we just taking their word for it?
  8. Some examples here: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Accessories/accessories.htm Taper and taper.. Friction is an amazing thing sometimes. For a drill press there is a tool (big wrench) that you place on the back of the chuck and smack with a hammer. Unless your MT end has a thread in it you can bolt in to your tailstock this won't exactly work as well on the lathe and it makes me cringe to think about putting it in a vise. The link above shows the a pretty good method. Stick a drift in the chuck, brace the chuck so the arbor can fall out and smack it. A little ingenuity combined with brute force and ignorance is the recipe.
  9. A flange coupling? Get some freeze off spray on the gearbox side and a torch on the shaft side and break the thing free. Hard to see how the gearbox side could be wrecked unless it has been beat on with impunity. Get some decent cold chisels and a variety of ball pein hammers, maybe even an air hammer. Remember that many penetrating lubes that might be helpful on breaking rust bonds will wreck seals in the immediate vicinity (PB Blaster specifically). Things like ATF + acetone, Kroil oil, mystery oil and similar probably wont hurt the output seal and work great as penetrating oils.
  10. Decent variety of parts here too. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1508/tiller-head-cp-26-c-27-c-30.cfm
  11. Note that the instructions on the PYI dripless shaft seal specifically warn against this. Ozone degrades many rubber compounds so be careful regardless if you have a dripless shaft seal or not. Also, many foams and headliners used in boats and RV's may not be intended for permanent living spaces. I remember reading something about the foam commonly used against the hulls of many production boats being especially bad. I'd go through and identify the materials used and research each one.
  12. I prefer to back away if solo. Put helm hard over, slip it in reverse gear at idle all while giving it a push from the dock, jumping back on and then giving the poor volvo all the fuel it will accept. Springing works too (much better with a second person) but most of the docks in Alaska where this would be a problem seem to have wood bull rails that love to snag dock lines preventing a smooth slipping of the line. I've had reasonably good luck using a boathook to push the stern out from the helm station too. The nice thing about reversing out is it gives you options.. keep trying or abort by simpling shifting to forward and guiding the stern back to the dock. The only downside I see is you loose the propwash over the rudder to some degree, but with my boat and it's barn door this doesn't seem to matter much. Bow out with no steerage you can't reverse and you don't have any real control forward either. If exit fails you are pretty much stuck with accepting whatever fate the wind and currents have in mind for you.
  13. There ain't nothin' printed in plastic FDM that is +/- 0.001. Metal neither, at this stage. This would be comparing similar prints that were printed to some dimension that is a factor of nozzle width and distance per step of the axis. Actual variation from your drawings can be a lot more. For example on the y-axis my $200 printer can increment somewhere around 0.004 inches at a time (as advertised 100 microns), and the nozzle itself is near 0.002 inches. Those are conversions; the machine is native to metric. It takes some care to make sure if you need precision that you work within the limits of the machine, meaning the resolution of the axis and width of the nozzle. With some trial and error however I find the $200 machine easy to work with and quite capable of producing consistent parts that are very comparable to those made on the high end machine.
  14. I had a hard time finding an after market equivalents on mine, also with the so called deluxe panel. Did some research and found a power boat gauge cluster "Crownline" that had temp, oil and battery all on one and then found the appropriate senders-I think it was Autometer compatible stuff. I had to tee off where the oil sender/switch combo was. There isn't room to built a stack where the OE sender is, and you don't really want all that inertia on pipe threads. The guy at NAPA introduced me to the 1/8" brake line they sell that you can form by hand, so I built a little bracket to hold a 1/8" pipe tee, mounted to the top of the engine and plumbed oil pressure up to it. My senders had long ago malfunctioned and I had to disable to low oil pressure alarm. It seemed like it was near impossible to find OE equivalent stuff; or was it the price? My solution cost just around $100 and has been working great.
  15. Just to add: I bought a $200 printer from monoprice that does a pretty darn good job keeping up with my $40,000 printer at work, and can print ABS just fine. Yeah, it may be +/- 0.001" compared to the stratasys but for $200 I can't complain. That and $16 for a spool of filament is the cost of entry.