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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About sailak

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  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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  1. That will buff right out

    If the deck was good you could bury this in the back yard and make a reasonable mother-in-law cabin or hell, maybe a good bug-out cabin in the woods somewhere. People are doing it with airliners, why not hunters?
  2. Might sound crazy, but if you have a 120 Volt PSW inverter you can get a 120 x 24 VAC transformer (door bell transformer would work, but a small $50 control power transformer would be better, there are some plug in ones for $15 to $20). Then, get a 24VAC Solenoid valves. Actually I bet you can just replace the coils on your existing valves. Using AC gives you the advantage of inductive reactance. When the valves close the air gap decreases which increases X_L and dramatically decreases current. With DC there is no such thing and the resistance of the wire rules the day. 24VAC coils are extremely common in HVAC and industrial applications for this reason. I have some little solenoids and inverters laying around, maybe I'll do an experiment today. With a small inverter this might actually be less than 2 amps. Do NOT try this with a MSW inverter.
  3. DC control panel.

    2.5 Amps isn't going to heat up 16 gauge wire... For the OP this worst case would be 1/4 Watt over 10 feet of wire. A hamster needs something like 2.8 Watts so this would be about 1/12th of a hamsters heat output, maximum. There is an advantage to using heavier wire for small loads, and that is mechanical strength. Properly crimped, the terminals will be much stronger. Sometimes that can actually matter. In industry where there are actually real standards that are enforced we use 'coordinated protection' where usually the breaker's only job is to protect the wiring with some other device, fuses, relays, maybe another breaker protect the device or motor.
  4. Day two: we ended up splitting the strings and charging separately. Tested all the batteries with an electronic analyzer and all of the house batteries passed but the start batteries were hosed. Thinking about it a little, on my boat I have a 210 amp hour bank that occasionally gets run all the way down and I use a 10 amp Guest encapsulated charger to bring that all the way back. The Guest has been doing it's thing for 12 years no problems at all. Proportionally my install is almost as bad, but the majority of the time if I come back with a totally drained house bank they get at least 1/2 hour on the 65 amp alternator before the charger takes over, and I have a few amps of solar. I have never had my batteries anywhere near as dead as this case. Dude just wanted to get a last whack at the Coho's and damn was it a nice couple days on the water for late September in Alaska! The middle two batteries in the tripled string were way worse off than the outer two, damn near zero. All of his wiring looked good, and all batteries were relatively new Interstates bought at the same time. In the off-grid living communities in Alaska it is generally considered poor practice to string up anymore than two in parallel unless you have individual battery management capability. That is common with lithium based cells but I haven't seen anything like that used for lead acid. I recommended we ditch the middle two and go with the 20 amp Marinco. Literally all they do is run the bilge pump until he gets a new inverter, even then??? All of the cabin lights are 120 volt AC! I suppose that would be ok but at least swap over to LED bulbs.
  5. DC control panel.

    My boat came with all the nav stuff running off one breaker of sufficient size that runs to a fuse block for all the electronics. I wouldn't have done it this way but no problems at all for 20 years or so. I think it is a 20 amp breaker and looks like 10 or 12 awg wire. This runs the VHF, GPS, Autopilot (wheel drive), Radar and handheld VHF charger. Each device and it's wiring is protected by an AGM fuse of the appropriate size. That is actually one of my pet peaves- replacing fuses with breakers. use the breaker as a switch but don't take the damn fuse out. The fuse specified by the manufacturer provides the exact level of overload protection the device needs. The breaker only protect the wire. Breakers can take much much longer to trip and aren't available in say 1.375 amps. Way too often I see people removing their factory fitted fuses thinking the breaker is good enough. Maybe that is where the fires come from! Even if I did redo my system I would still keep the fuse block.
  6. Venting 26' boat

    The cheap $40 solar power RV vents on Ebay or Amazon work well. I have had one on my garden shed for 4 years now and one on my boat that just died after 4 years. They aren't low profile so you need to adapt them to a cowl or access plate and remove before sailing, but much cheaper and probably more airflow than the Nicro.
  7. The local store has a ProMariner 20 amp and a ProNautic 25 amp charger. The larger charger is about half the weight which is a little spooky... I'm inclined to go with the ProMariner since it is a little more familiar brand. Another guy has a 45 amp charger but it is open air, not spash proofed and he wants to put it in his engine space that looks like it is pretty dank. I understand what is going on with banks this size. When it says 100 Amp Hour on the box they are alluding to some sort of acceptable duty cycle for the charger. It can only be expect to be doing full power output for so long, that doesn't make it junk. Nothing is designed to run a full output continuously and if it is that really isn't true full output. Real world real chargers and real batteries. Yeah if the bank was charged a 20 amp charger would be just fine for keeping it up, but a bank that large can't really be expected to be brought back up with a $100 charger designed for a bass boat. I wonder why the ProSine inverter charger went bad? It was only about a year old according to the owner. We are going to check all the cells today. Maybe one has gone tits on us... I was try to sell disconnecting two of the strings and just running the bilge pump off one string for the winter but dude likes his power.
  8. Got a fisherman friend that has 10, count em 10 6 volt deep cycle batteries on his boat. For reasons I guess. His house bank is 6 of em in a series parallel arrangement so 12 Volts and 600 Amp Hours? Geesh.. His inverter charger smoked, so he has no way of keeping the house back up while at the dock. I looked at the usual suspects and they all state 100-150 Amp Hours max capacity on their boxes. Does anyone make a 'trickle' or maintenance charger for battery banks this huge?
  9. Engine M10x1.0 SS drain cock &/or alternatives.

    Do you really need a valve? I'd just use a plug. Skip all the dissimilar metals, mechanics and threads.
  10. Experiences with G-flex

    One of the more recent Practical Sailors has West at the lowest cost out of everything they tested.
  11. Sourcing replacement shackle screw pins

    I've made them on a lathe for shackles I had a particular attachment to. Tooling, time & materials greatly exceed replacement costs sure. Also consider that while many of the cheap little onces are made from common stainless steels, higher strength shackles and pins will be made from specific alloys that you are not likely going to be able to duplicate scrounging around in your rigging bag or cobbling together.
  12. Experiences with G-flex

    I've used this to repair cracked ABS panels on cars. Works very well, especially after a flame treat. I usually apply a thin layer of G/Flex to the hard to bond surface and then continue layup with 105 to get the desired stiffness. Get it in the cans and batch by weight... Much better value than the little bottles.
  13. Exhaust Thru Hull

    Glass is probably a good idea. I redid half my system (wherever flex wasn't needed) with glass and ended up with a more powerful and more economical (and happier) engine. Looks better too. Making curves with glass tube is actually kinda fun. Thruhull is still bronze but it was real tempting to glass it in. Only thing I would caution against is if you plan to go offshore either make sure you can fit a ball valve to the exhaust or drain the waterlock to the bilge. Both my engine and Webasto took water from behind on my last little trip. I had a valve on the engine I was able to shut (normally leave it open with the handle off) when I figured out what was happening. Crawling behind the engine offshore at night in a gale to drain the waterlock was not my fondest memory.
  14. Diesel has me stumped....

    Normally I would agree but getting the injectors out on the 2000 series is most of the work required to take off the head. Getting the injectors to seat properly (and whatever compression adapter you are likely to come across) is harder than bolting down the head by about twice. The 2000 series takes a special touch. I have no more experience than caring for mine and doing a head decarb job, but have quite a bit of experience with high speed industrial and prime power diesels (JD 4545, 6068, Cat 330's and stuff like that) and these things are in a little bit of a league of their own. So much of working on the 2000's require copper crush seals and just snugging things up right to the point they don't leak. I've never really seen anything else like it. When things are good they are good.
  15. Diesel has me stumped....

    Fer shits sake.. Sense of humor lately? If your mechanic couldn't see it came out of a boat that would be your sign to walk away. FYI that is kinda a running joke in the industry at least everywhere i have lived in North America. We have marine diesels, stationary power diesels, over the road diesels, agricultural diesels, off road diesels etc. There are mechanics that specialize in each type of course. They all know they are exactly the same internals and 90% the same trimmings.