erdb

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About erdb

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  1. erdb

    Team UK

    If it's 0.6s and 28' LOA, then it's 27.6kts.
  2. erdb

    Full Main + HW Jib?

    That would be great, thanks!
  3. erdb

    Full Main + HW Jib?

    How do you tie the roll? Thanks
  4. erdb

    Full Main + HW Jib?

    Thanks, I haven't seen the zipper version before, but when I googled, I found a pic on Stan Honey's blog. What I don't understand is that both halves of the zipper seems to be on the same side so one would end up inside if you roll up. http://honeynav.com/jib-hanks-reefable-solent-jib/
  5. erdb

    Full Main + HW Jib?

    I'm actually thinking of doing this. I plan on getting a 100% jib with a reef to ~85%. Does anyone have real-life experience with sails like this? How much time does it take to put in a reef and how clumsy it is to tack the sail when reefed? BTW I just discussed materials for a new main with a sailmaker and he did say that if I need to reef often (which I do), I'd be better using dacron than laminates, because laminates generally hate to be reefed.
  6. erdb

    The 2018 Golden Globe Race

    Listening to Don's chat with Uku, it seems Gregor's boat is scuttled and Indian navy will try to recover Thuriya.
  7. erdb

    I'm making a rudder

    Hi Alan, somehow I only noticed your reply now. I hope you feel better now and had a chance to test the rudder. FYI, I have about 14% area in front of the axis for balance. Very nicely balanced, the helm remains light even when heeled. Some might think it's even a little too light, but I like it this way.
  8. erdb

    I'm making a rudder

    Thanks. It's a Santana 2023R. It's the water ballast/centerboard version of the dagger board model.
  9. erdb

    I'm making a rudder

    I figured I'd post pics of the finished rudder. Everything seems to work fine, boat sails great and so far nothing has broken. Have you finished your rudders Alan?
  10. erdb

    I'm making a rudder

    Here is another pic showing the whole cassette from below.
  11. erdb

    I'm making a rudder

    I decided to use fiberglass instead. I was originally planning to use carbon, as it seems a lot of people use that, but then though that glass is supposed to be more forgiving, flex is not a problem here, and I don't mind a couple of extra grams. I really don't know, I guess carbon would have been fine, too. I laminated the final layers and did the first rough clean-up of the edges. This is how the cassette looks like now: Here is a close look at the lower gudgeon: First I wrapped the SS rod with packing tape, then 2-3 wraps of 6oz glass cloth to make the tube. Once that cured, I removed the SS rod, and used my jig to position the tube accurately relative to the rudder blade. I made that inside "A" seen above by putting a glob of thickened epoxy with chopped glass between the tube and the cassette and covered it with a few layers of glass. Later I built up a few more layers of glass on that, then glued the cedar on for core, faired it and then laminated a bunch of layers of glass on the outside. For both the inside "A" and the outside layers, I mostly used glass uni with a few layers of 45deg biax mixed between them. The glass uni I had was 6oz, so it took a lot of layers and a lot of time. It would have been better to have fewer layers of heavier glass I guess. The thickness of that outside wrap is about 1/4". Hope it answers your question. The whole cassette is very sturdy, in fact it feels a little overkill, but that's fine. I want the rudder to stay on the boat. The only issue now is that the gap between the cassette and the blade is not as tight and uniform as I wanted. I'm planning to use the fuzzy side of a velcro tape for gasket, and now I'm thinking of ways to put some thickened epoxy or some gasket glue under the velcro tape to make the gap tighter. It should be tight, but at the same time, I may need to replace that velcro in the future, so I don't want to glue it on too permanently either.
  12. erdb

    I'm making a rudder

    Progress has been a little slow here, but finally the cassette is taking shape. 1st I made tubes by wrapping fiberglass around the SS rod I'm using for the pins, then glued these tubes to the cassette using my templates as guides and an arrow shaft making sure they're in the center-line and had the proper angle to the rudder blade. The laser-cut templates sat on the blade as I've shown it above. They had the proper NACA profile, I just had to make sure the blade was also faired properly... Wrapped a few layers of glass around the tubes, and filled the void between the cassette and the tubes with a mix of thickened epoxy and chopped glass. Then glued on pieces of cedar as core to increase the thickness of the lower and upper straps and shape the rudder head: The rod is only there to check alignment, it will be cut into shorter upper and lower pins. Now I'll wrap a scientifically guestimated number of glass uni and 45 deg biax layers around the cassette. Then, I'll clean up the edges and do some fairing to have a smooth surface. The tiller will be fixed, glued to the cassette, I just wanted to do it in two steps to have better access to the cassette while I laminate and and fair it. I'm using glass everywhere except at the trailing edge where I have a few layers of carbon uni running down inside and outside of a couple of layer of glass biax creating basically U channel-shaped sandwich to resist against torsion of the cassette. The part of the cassette covering the leading edge of the blade is made mostly of 45 deg biax glass. It already feels very sturdy, but I'm planning to build up around another 1/4" thickness of glass on the outside of the straps (mostly uni, with a few layers of 45 deg biax and maybe 1-2 layers of 0 - 90 in between). What do you guys think?
  13. erdb

    I'm making a rudder

    Oh, so you were just conducting tests using your toe.. I see.
  14. erdb

    I'm making a rudder

    Yes, that's my preferred method as well!