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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

AndreasE

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  1. No Details given in this picture other than the name "j70_keel-nonlegal.jpg". To me it looks like they kept at least one of the keels that did not measure. If that assumption is correct I am sure we will see some rule69 cases when/if it is confirmed by j/boats that they did not build these keels Taken from : http://www.blur.se/2017/09/16/varldens-storsta-vm-fusk/
  2. If you are in a competitive J/105 fleet, everyone knows who has a pre-scrimp boat... and not just from hull#
  3. This would be a good time to start shopping for a J/70 for handicap racing, should be some cheap hulls on the market soon
  4. He is still a pretty decent helmsman, finished 4th in both Dragon Europeans and Farr40 worlds 10+ years ago
  5. If someone offers you a datenight in their submarine; say no thanks
  6. +1 best out there. I used it both for primary and backup for "sporty" dives. never an issue
  7. impressive, that is a lot of man hours!
  8. to close of the thread in case someone searches it in the future. We found a way to gybe it without making a mess. So far tested up to 20 ish knots, but should scale to the high end of our windrange -Changed rope and slow blocks on traveler. -Redid the mainsheet splice so that it is now continuous again. i.e. no risk of running out of sheet when you release -coming into the gybe take the sheet out of the self tailer leave only 1-2 turns on the winch. -Pull like a madman when the sail comes in -Release fast and controlled as soon as the main comes over so no need for the slow winching, or someone to jump the german mainsheet or anything fancy or expensive. I just needed to throw away the winch handle and keep it simple,... Andreas
  9. I just ordered an iMUX ST from brookhouse. Will update thread with lessons learned once i have it installed and connected to iRegatta. Thanks for all the help so far.
  10. Thanks guys. So now I am a couple of steps closer. Does anyone have experience with this solution from gadget pool? Looks like a suitable replacement for the discontinued Raymarine kit. (site note: I also like it since it is based on the ATmega128, one of the products in my portfolio at work the last 12 years and designed by my colleagues here in Trondheim :)) http://www.gadgetpool.de/bestellen/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/100 FYI also reached out to brookhouse to check if their NMEA/seatalk to WiFi can do it buy itself. Need to know if it is seatalk NG or the plain old seatalk from the ST80
  11. Hi, Looking for some help before I buy. On two boats I previously sailed on I had great success installing Digital Yachts NMEA to WiFi solutions. However the boat I am sailing now has a Raymarine ST80 system. Has anyone here tried to connect a Digital Yacht (or other similar) WiFi router to a seatalk bus? would be good to have some feedback before i spend the $$$ I could not find anything on the DY webpage... Thanks Andreas
  12. I personally think they will bring out the pie-warmers again. kind of missed them on the kiwi boat so far
  13. This is the way we are leaning to. Have a 2nd grimder that is on the new leeward side that grinders until the sail comes over(being really careful not to be in the trajectory of the main sheet and traveller). And then have the main mainsail trimmer on the new windward side, first grinding like a Chris Brittle wannabe and then realeasing lots of sheet. having a guy sweating the German setting system would be nice. But none of us could pull that of 10 in 10 times without falling overboard or getting wacked. Better to break some blocks than to break some crew :-) a
  14. Quick question hoping that someone familiar with larger J's can help. (used to sail a J/105 and this was never a problem there as we gybed the aso first in heavy wind and then the main on the next wave/surf, and i had enough power to control it) The last two weeks we have had massive winds on our local regattas (mid 20 knots to low 30 knots in the puffs). Since we are big boys (and girls) on board we of course always put a asymetric up at the top mark, and other than the occasional dirty takedown there has not been an issue with the kite. The problem has been the main. With the relatively low gearing on the winches there is not enough time to winch the main in enough to be able to let it out controlled on the new gybe. And we want to avoid the violent mainsail gybes we have had recently. They are fast, but not good for the boat. In one race we even managed to pull apart a block in the traveler system resulting in ball bearings raining on the owner (who was not impressed). Also, these hard gybes are not pretty to watch and forced us into a ugly broach the other day. We are considering: -putting an extra person by the mast to pull on the German mainsheet system so that the mainsail trimmer can tail only going into the gybe, but in these heavy winds we'd really prefer not to have extra people up there, especially considering you have to pull with both hands on the sheet to be efficient and the high load on this sheet when the main comes over or -winching from both winches going into the gybe. The problem with this is that the person on the new leeward winch is in a pretty tough spot between the rest of the cockpit crew gybing the aso (they have to use the primaries in heavy winds and not the cabintops), and the travller/main coming in very close to the mainsheet winch any tips are highly appreciated Andreas
  15. Norway I am afraid, and my cable package does not have Swedish TV4