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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About ctdriver

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  1. Found it - here's the schematic from Mr. Perry's office. Way back when, I asked the CST guys (who built the masts) if they built it to this design, and for liability reasons they wouldn't make a commitment one way or the other. We checked my mast (hull 71) and the reinforcement is exactly where it was drawn. It sounds like you found the sleeve in the same spot too - so you should be good to go. FT10 fraction spin halyard.pdf
  2. Bingo - that's the block. Will look for the drawings this weekend, but if you can "feel" the sleeve, you have a pretty good idea of where to cut.
  3. The masts were all built with reinforcement where the headstay attaches to the mast - enough reinforced / sleeved area to cut and put in a new halyard exit block. If I can find the PDF with the mast schematic I'll post it. But bottom line - you can cut a hole for a fractional halyard no problem.
  4. Ditto at my program
  5. In my experience, the FT handles slip better than many boats - the narrow entry and overall narrow hull get thru chop and handle nastier sea state far better than fat boats. So when you're slugging upwind in 25 on open water, the crew is fairly comfy and there's little spin out drama (as long as your main trimmer doesn't die on you). We race weekly against J111/109/Santa Cruise37/J120 and have a great time. In 0-10 knots we win. 10-15 it's a tough fight. 15+ we're back in it. PM me if you want more ideas-
  6. Take a look at the Flying Tiger - it sounds like it meets your news perfectly. Talk to a few owners or crew who've sailed them -
  7. my one engagement with PHRF of LIS was a farce where a committee member brought an ridiculously uninformed and personally biased observation to the committee (his fat "race boat" with couches didn't go DDW as fast as the FT in 25 knots of wind), and they bought it - flying in the face of very basic and simple data. This was 5 years ago, I'm sure it's better now. Sadly, I stopped paying dues for an annual cert two years ago.
  8. We've done it twice with the FT10. For 7 guys, rental house, moorings, registration, food, booze, all fees, I was in for $7k. Most of my crew is able to shoulder a portion of the cost - and I asked them to chip in $100/day each - not a bad deal for a glamorous week vacation. Everyone covered their own personal delivery from homes around the country to BI, I delivered the boat on its own bottom.
  9. Awesome to see a tiny bit of the same information that's been here for about 4 months finally make it to a print magazine headquartered minutes away from the Clark's garage. Truly impressive stuff. Almost as impressive as posting on the front page 6 months after the kids went to Bermuda?
  10. I put water proof grease in the door track, and only move the door at very slow speeds, like under 2 knots. I also put lock-tite on the hardware as I had a few of the bits get loose in our 1st season. No trouble after that.
  11. Nice - great to hear you are on the right track. PM me if you Want to bounce ideas at all. We've had 8 great seasons with #71 - buoys and distance racing. It's been a great boat.
  12. Ok I'll say it - get rid of those old sails. Moving to a current generation set will make the boat faster and easier to sail. Call it a move from Gen 1 (the jib that blew and the dacron main) to gen 3 or 4 from any sailmaker who knows your local conditions.
  13. My 65 pound daughter started in the Opti at 8 years old, had no problem righting/self rescuing, and took her development at her own pace. That meant at 14 she was taking advantage of all of the great class events with the Opti. The Bic looks cool, but the kids at our club discounted it as an Opti replacement - it just doesn't fit the intro level trainer need, and then falls short on the high end racing. In between those mile posts it's a great boat, cheap, durable, fast.
  14. I use the Japanese teflon tape on the FT10 tube - simple and almost zero maintenance required. And where would one find this wondrous material? Landfall, KO Sailing - the dingies use it in the board trunks. Link should work: http://www.landfallnavigation.com/ex11171jap.html?cmp=froogle&kw=ex11171jap&utm_source=ex11171jap&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=Cj0KEQjw_eu8BRDC-YLHusmTmMEBEiQArW6c-OtPbVsyNMcazwLSv0uAFvpHtwLrVhA_6s-SAiN95t0aAi-18P8HAQ
  15. I use the Japanese teflon tape on the FT10 tube - simple and almost zero maintenance required.