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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About Diarmuid

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    Laramie, WY, USA

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  1. Girl with patreon account goes sailing in hot place

    These were called Kinder Joy and looked like a plastic 'egg' which promised a toy inside (small diecast bicycle??) and some dreadful-looking chocky crisp as well. Seemed very much made to generate maximum WANT!! crying scenes in the checkout aisle. Toy is not inside the foodstuff, which does indeed sound like a fucking stupid idea.
  2. Girl with patreon account goes sailing in hot place

    Just saw them in a WalMart checkout lane last week.
  3. almost a boat yard disaster

    Any drying (polymerizing) oil: linseed, tung, walnut, etc. Most teak oils are some formula of these; most solvent-based (alkyd, spar, urethane) varnishes contain drying oils as one component. Motor oils (or other mineral oils) and common vegetable oils are non-drying. Drying oils won't spontaneously combust in a can, tho they may burn if exposed to flame. A rag acts like a wick, creating maximum surface area exposed to oxygen & therefore rapid exotherm; a balled-up rag holds that heat in, creating a runaway chemical reaction that exceeds ignition temperature. Foof! hot little fireball.
  4. Spraying the inside

    The really important qualifier being jgbrown's "...If your fan is ignition proof." You don't really want to be pulling atomized petroleum distillates thru a sparking exhaust fan motor. Leave a smoking crater where the boatyard used to be. I spray coatings nearly every day of my life, but it's brushes and rollers for me on the interior. Would never even consider shooting pigmented inside a boat. Lots of complicated suck for little upside. But that's just me.:)
  5. My favorite boat repair tools.

    I've got the Midi (CT22) & wouldn't want to carry it up & down ladders. It's a facking anvil, even when empty. One big consideration with Festool vacs for boat work: they use paper dust bags, and those bags cost $6US apiece. You can buy a zippered reusable version, but like any zippered dust bag, it leaks a bit & you spend lots of time cleaning your HEPA postfilters. DAMHIKT.
  6. My favorite boat repair tools.

    Ridgid makes a similar, and I do like my Ridgid vacs (own two). They have the Wet/Dry advantage, while my garage vac is strictly Dry.
  7. My favorite boat repair tools.

    Well, mostly just broke. They really are markedly better than hardware store tools, tho the Rotex will run away on you & it's exhausting to use overhead. A spool or reel of string is useful in boat work for establishing baselines & testing planarity. Cool kids prolly use lasers. I like string. I bought a 'garage vac' similar to this one which turned out useless for its intended purpose but, with some modification to take a HEPA filter, turned out perfect for boat work. If hangs on a bulkhead out of the way, the hose is really long and snaky, and even sucking up FRP dust it goes a long time before the suction drops off & it needs emptying. A box store had it in the clearance bin for $80.
  8. My favorite boat repair tools.

    I got three! And the $600 ShopVac to go with. Cold dead hands, etc.
  9. What Tools Did You Use?

    Customer pays delivered cost (including any tax, freight, or gas money) for materials; Overhead represents my markup, which is smaller than in many industries (most plumbers and electricians seem to double or triple the price of components, but their business model is different so that's their affair.) I don't carry much materials inventory, which holds down the pressure on markup. A busy boatyard would need to keep lots of everything at hand so they aren't sending off for 3 yards of biax every time they need some. Trade & bulk-buy discounts are quickly erased by cost of inventory, which folks don't always appreciate. Warehousing, debt service, opportunity cost. One reason to line out Overhead is it lets me cross-check every year to see if ancillaries are being paid for. 35% seems just about right for my biz, but a higher-volume operation in a fancier neighborhood would almost certainly need to raise that number. My shop space is part of my mortgage, not 200' of Sausalito waterfront! State sales tax is also easier to figure with Overhead as a line item, since raw materials which end up in the finished product are exempt in WY -- but labor and 'process' materials (sandpaper, saw blades, electricity) are not exempt. So I pretty much just add Overhead and Labor, multiply by 6%, and that's sorted. Clients appreciate the transparency, since they get a better idea where their money is going. A good rule-of-thumb in our world is "Final price (sans sales tax) should be 3-4 times materials cost." Basic plywood/melamine boxes for resale might be down around 3x; working for builders does alter the equation a bit. Good-quality cabinetry that I install runs 3.5x materials; countertops can skew that total wildly, so that's a thing to chew on. Fine furniture that is light on materials but very intensive in skills & labor typically costs 4x materials, and I still get murdered on labor rate. You can't really charge enuf to pay yourself a living wage on fancy work. I expect there are many boat-related jobs that are similar. Your idea of tiered labor rates makes a lot of sense and I can see why thinking clients would appreciate it.
  10. Making a new dagger-board - why rip and glue?

    Glue lines also add stiffness to a panel. But mostly, as others have noted, it is about relieving internal stresses & balancing the final assembly so it doesn't deform as a piece. Even a careless & random grain orientation is better than a single wide plank that is (probably) flat-sawn in the center, rift- or even quarter-sawn near the edges, and sapwood one face/heartwood the other face. Also cancels grain runout. It's just good practice for a number of reasons.
  11. What Tools Did You Use?

    Overhead is hard to explain but absolutely essential to charge for. There's a certain amount of unfairness involved: every customer has to chip into operational costs, even if their particular job was easy on the tool inventory or grinder discs. In my woodworking & cabinetry business, I've found 35% of delivered materials cost pretty well covers annual overhead; the more bulk materials a job uses, or the more expensive a job's materials are, the more likely it will cost more in either heavy use of basic tools or need for really odd tools. (I used two different spokeshaves and a compass plane yesterday. Small job, weird tools.) So a kitchen cabinet job might use $3500 in materials (most of that lumber, sheet goods, hardware, & finish); client pays $1225 on top of that for Overhead. That 35% Overhead charge is stated as a line item on the invoice, with the note that it "covers a portion of tool purchasing and maintenance, cost of workshop, and such disposables as sandpaper and glue." Things that don't otherwise make it on the invoice & which are not worth your time itemizing: I ain't gonna count the #10 biscuits or sanding discs for every job! I'm a small operation but still burn $1200 a year on sandpaper. Somebody's gotta foot the cost of router bits, or sawblade sharpening. Some places work that into their shop rates, but since I undercount my labor so badly, it's wiser for me to peg Overhead to materials cost. That way it gets paid for sure, and if I blow a labor estimate that's my problem, not the business'. Looks like professional boat work demands a lot more in overhead than cabinetmaking! And yes, there are work-arounds for most jobs. You can get that putty out hitting an old screwdriver with a scrap of 4x4. But what you save in tool purchasing/ownership/maintenance you give back in labor. I bought a shaper with powerfeed and all the associated (expensive) cutters because it was eventually costing too damned much to think up alternatives. Now every client is helping pay that money back.
  12. What a money pit!

    Comes to it, you can eat a horse.
  13. Fuck! storm emma destroys holyhead marina

    Anglesey hasn't seen this sort of destruction since Storm Paulinus in 60AD. For TwoLegged, 'being Irish in the wrong place & at the wrong time':
  14. Google & Babel Yacht Brokers

    Showty & Awlcaps, Yacht Brokers.