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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.
    • B.J. Porter

      Moderation Team Change   06/16/2017

      After fifteen years of volunteer moderation at SA, I will no longer be part of the moderation team. The decision to step aside is mine, and has been some time in the works but we did not wish to announce it in advance for a number of reasons. It's been fun, but I need my time back for other purposes now. The Underdawg admin account will not be monitored until further notice, as I will be relinquishing control of it along with my administrative privileges. Zapata will continue on as a moderator, and any concerns or issues can be directed to that account or to the Editor until further notice. Anyone interested in helping moderate the forums should reach out to Scot by sending a PM to the Editor account. Please note that I am not leaving the community, I am merely stepping aside from Admin responsibilities and privileges on the site.

Diarmuid

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  1. Here ya go: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-1-1-4-in-wood-and-metal-flush-cut-blade-0545506p.html#srp Twofer.
  2. Don't waste $$ on good blades. Harbor Freight has perfectly decent universal blades for $6-9. I find the half moon blades useful for cutting long runs of drywall, but that's about all. Harder to get the aggressive, forward-pointing angle you need for zipping thru FRP. These are the puppies I use: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-38-in-High-Carbon-Steel-Multi-Tool-Plunge-Blade-61816.html https://www.harborfreight.com/1-18-in-bi-metal-multi-tool-plunge-blade-61812.html I've cut hundreds of feet of fiberglass with them, including tabbing over 1/4" thick.. You can turn a tight and neat corner, no problem. Honestly, you try to cut 3" of MDF with these tools & and the blade starts burning & the teeth wear down to zero. But I've been using the same blade on FRP for, like, months, and it still looks & cuts fine. I make the first pass with the teeth almost parallel to the surface, to make a scribe cut. Second pass at maybe a 15-30 degree angle, removing ~half the material. Third pass usually plunges thru the material & then I cut using the center of the blade, with the teeth at maybe 45 degrees to the surface. This is a really powerful &satisfying pass.:)
  3. Hmmm. I find multitools zip right thru FRP, much faster than thru wood or wood composites; and the blade teeth seem to last forever on FRP for some reason. While the urea or resorcenol glues in any panel product will blunt them quickly. Multitool with a medium wood/metal blade is my go-to for cutting tabbing, opening deck skins or cabin soles, etc. Multitools are a bit slow, but three passes or so usually does the trick. Gotta hold them at the right angle -- 45 degrees or so on a plunge cutting blade seems to work best.
  4. No advice here. I don't gelcoat, in part because I seldom or never work with polyester resin.
  5. It's not formulated to flow or level. Our expectations of gelcoat come from items made in molds: where the show side of the gelcoat is pushed against a polished & waxed surface. The top surface, toward the sprayer, is lumpy shit. And that's okay, cuz it helps it key to the laminates. But when we try to reproduce a molded surface from the wrong side, we're disappointed. Gotta buff. Maybe with vac bagging you can get a show-quality outer sirface? Not spraying in free air.
  6. I think Pano is referring to turbine HVLPs, powered by a blower rather than regulaed compressed air. I'd be curious to know what gun pressure gelcoat sprayers are using w/ their compressor HVLP systems. Many dial up the gun pressure to 12-15psi, which isn't quite w/in the legal definition of HVLP (< 10psi), but which does offer better atomization of high-viscosity or pigmented coatings. HVLP turbine units produce under 10psi at the tip. Most cheaper HVLPs (1- or 2-stage) produce only 5-6psi. I use a decent quality but older turbine HVLP for my cabinet shop; it will shoot waterbased clearcoats of 50% solids quite cheerfully, because those are engineered to flow out well with minimal atomization. Quick-flash solvent clearcoats like NC, not so good -- and it really struggles with waterbased pigmented coatings. I don't think it would handle a solvent-based pigmented product like gelcoat at all well.
  7. That's interesting. Not the JR narration, which is about as stodgy as expected -- but that all these years later, we still cannot quantify what if any advantage a wing keel provides. Self-evidently it was a winning design. It won the series. But all the praise heaped on the winged keel over the years is purest superstition. We think it did something, but we cannot actually say definitively whether AUS2 with a conventional keel would not have been as fast or faster. Tank testing for drag is suspect, deeply suspect. There are scaling errors larger than any lift/drag effects you are trying to measure. Righting forces can be calculated with confidence. A great deal of fluid dynamics was, and still is, infinitely harder to parse.
  8. You also get vortices & induced drag off the tips of the wings, and now you have two of them.... Entropy never goes away, it just changes address. Do you think we'll be seeing a rage for forward daggerboards and pseudo-'foils' on cruising boats? (And by that I mean Beneteaus and Bavarias,) Boats that aren't terribly likely to ever get up and fly, but whose designers are desperate to appear cutting edge? (I've long suspected Australia 2's winged keel had greater psychological effect than hydrological. It got into the heads of the Liberty's team. In reality, Bertrand & his crew simply sailed a better race. It's handy when your opponent thinks you have a secret weapon, some technical edge that no amount of effort on their part can blunt. Verrrry useful seed to plant.)
  9. I'm more into sealing than gluing, but adhesive is fine. I just don't see much advantage to swapping out all the carriage bolts when that process still requires removing all the carriage bolts. All the suck will be in the removal, & I don't foresee anyone ever wanting to remove them again. 45 years from now, someone will hate me, but I won't care. Here's a random bolt loosed yesterday & popped for illustration: bolt by Robert Mcgovern, on Flickr Wasn't too hard to free up. You can see the gelcoat stress cracking; maybe a third of the bolts have that. Here's a typical run of interior seam, showing the tenacious butyl sealant. I have no fears about its effectiveness. butyl by Robert Mcgovern, on Flickr And here's the repaired area from what I suspect was a pretty serious ramming in the past: psspot by Robert Mcgovern, on Flickr Yard ran the roving the wrong direction, we have gelcoat cracking on the outside under a stanchion,they didn't get the hull/deck seal or the bolts quite right. And the rebuilt flange looks like a child molded it from instant potatoes. That's my next little project. :/
  10. Already removed or loosened the nuts on lots of them w/out trouble, and popped quite a few to gain clearance underneath (you'll recall I stripped & reskinned 8' of both side decks from below.) Haven't spun any of the twenty or thirty I've loosened. I suspect the builders dabbed them with bog before seating, then wiped off the squeezeout -- creating a permanent square recess. You can see it when you take one out. At any rate, I'm not too worried about either loosening or tightening.:) They don't need to be cranked real hard. There's lots of them. DDW: Noooo, I'm not splitting the joint. Gah! I'd sell the boat first. There is no sign of leaks (except in the P/S collision area, where they did a shit job rebuilding the flange, followed by an owner with a tube of silicone caulk), the butyl sealant is still doing its thing, and it is hard to imagine how I could make that seal better rather than worse. We just need to decide whether to re-pot the toe rail bolts as part of this multi-year refit, and it'll be easiest to do it right about now in the process -- while I have all the furniture out.;) I will also clean up any butyl squeezout on the inside of the joint and continue my program of filleting it with epoxy/Six10; might (might) run a multitool around some or all the outer seam and fill it with fresh sealant, tho it's only problematic near the repair & on the transom (which looks like it also received shoddy boatyard glass work). Today I pulled all the remaining deck plates, cut back the foam core (one damp, three dry), and filled the recesses with thickened epoxy. Two will be plugged with new core and skinned; two will get back their deck plates. Also removed a 10" circle of top skin just behind the main deck cleat/staysail padeye. It was the only delaminated place on the whole deck, and the core inside was dry & in great shape & still bonded to the inner skin. Might have been a glue void during factory layup? Who knows how long that bouncy spot has been there. Two years late, the replacement mast step truss is also installed for all time. Yay. trussin by Robert Mcgovern, on Flickr
  11. What's wrong with carriage bolts? No signs of rust at all, so I figure they must be pretty good stainless. Also, the budget will not stretch to replacing ~110 stainless bolts 4" long. Rather put that $ toward a furler or headsail.:) I don't even think these are leaking, except around the repaired area. Get some condensation drips inside, but nothing much beyond that. I just figure ANY sealant could use refreshing; I was six years old in 1972. Or I could just buff them bright and otherwise not mess? PY: The builders did use a butyl for the hull-to-deck joint. It squeezed out in spots & is still insanely sticky and flexible. Not sure I want it under these bolts, tho. It would seal fine, but I'd like to really suck 'em down forever. 4200 or 5200 would be fine. I also like DDW's suggestion of 4000UV, which I've used before with good results. Boat will live on the hard in the Sonoran Desert, so blistering sun is an issue. My other thought was Six10, which like 4000UV comes in a caulk tube & would be easy to dispense. Got about fifty linear feet of these bastards to pop out, clean up, and re-seat.
  12. Our 30' Ballad has roughly a hundred 5/6" SS carriage bolts passing thru a molded toe rail/bulwark and then thru a turned-in hull flange. The bulwark is solid chopper/bog/roving without any wood or foam coring, and the bolts are roughly 4.5" on center. 1/4" flathead bolts thru outboard genoa tracks take over for about 8' toward the stern. The carriage bolt heads have been painted by previous owners; a few show minor surface crazing around the holes, and all of them are 45 years old. So I'd like to pop them all out, rehab any crazing, and rebed them securely. If I could time this around painting the decks, that would be even better. What's your suggested approach & materials (esp. sealant) for this very tedious task? (Should note: the worst crazing is around what look like a major port/starboard collision repair sometime in the boat's past. There are a number of questions about that repair I will be addressing from the inside, but I'd rather not rebuild that 3' section of bulwark.)
  13. Yeah, 'legendary' for all the wrong reasons. Ish was being puckish when he used the word, then recalled you might not be aware of their issues. Leaks and dissimilar-metals corrosion seem to be endemic with OMC drives. Might not be as pronounced in a seasonal, always-freshwater boat.
  14. Dave Scobie builds a nice boat. They are somewhat redundant with the Montys, but I'd not kick a Sage outta bed for eating crackers (so to speak).
  15. Commodore VIC-20 with 4k RAM and cassette tape drive. Could make that biotch sit up and beg. Now my computer is smarter than I am and treats me like the fambly dog.