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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

oneguyfromdetroit

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About oneguyfromdetroit

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  • Birthday 10/08/1958

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  • Location
    Detroit
  • Interests
    Sailing, Sex Drugs and Rock and Roll, Motorcycles

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  1. Dick Carter design boats

    Hello, I'm looking for drawings of the North American 40 rudder and skeg. Bent the rudder post recently, and looking to make the best repair possible. Any drawings would be helpful. Thanks.
  2. Anodizing vs powder coating for aluminum mast

    We like shiny things.
  3. Anodizing vs powder coating for aluminum mast

    Sand, wet sand , Mother's mag wheel aluminum polish.
  4. 2017 Chicago Mac... who's in, weather predictions etc?!?

    I don't but will keep looking. Please let me know if you work something out that will allow me to ride back to Chicago. Thanks.
  5. 2017 Chicago Mac... who's in, weather predictions etc?!?

    I'm looking for a ride back to Chicago ASAP after the race, but no later than 600 PM arrival in Chicago Tuesday 18th. Happy to DD drive your vehicle, buy gas, etc. Please message me if you have a solution. Thanks.
  6. 2017 Chicago Mac... who's in, weather predictions etc?!?

    Fast Tango in.
  7. Santana 35 Keel Repair

    I had very similar issue with my Santana 35. Dropped keel, but left keel bolts thru hull, in position. Important to brave keel before doing this. Rebuilt mast step and all stringers from mast step to companionway. All it takes is time and materials. Those are great boats, and worth the fix.
  8. RaceQs

    I run an old iphone4 that isn't on my phone plan. plus external battery. Put it all in a waterproof bag. turn on airplane mode then upload when you get back to the dock. If you put it on airplane mode, doesn't that turn off the GPS? My Android phones and tablets all receive GPS in airplane mode.
  9. Chicago Mac Race

    #22 here. Looking forward to it, as always.
  10. Bilge Pump Discharge question

    Especially if it's red brass from the hardware store, and reputable marine chandleries shouldn't even sell gate valves. Brass is made of copper and zinc alloy, which when submerged in salt water becomes its' own battery. The zinc dissolves and the the valve body shears off the next time you try to open or close it. Yours are below the waterline, so that's the perfect recipe for sending your boat to the bottom. That's worst case scenario. "Seacocks" should have a 90 degree handle so you know at a glance if it's open or closed. Cockpit drains should be free flowing, without valves, at or slightly above waterline, with port scuppers draining to starboard, and vice versa so that no matter which tack you're on, the cockpit still drains. Nothing else should share the cockpit drains. Bilge pumps typically shouldn't drain below the waterline as it puts back pressure on the pump. Same goes with check valves on the pump discharge. If you have two bilge pumps, the high water pump should discharge above the highest heeled waterline. At, or below the waterline, they should have a vented loop. Through-hull fittings are cheaper than a salvage operation, and drilling holes in boats above the waterline is easy. Money well spent for a good nights sleep. Thanks. The good news is, this boat has spent it's entire life in fresh water. All the thru hulls have a handle that looks like a faucet spigot handle that turns to open or close. All the thru hulls except the ones used for cockpit drains, when closed, have the part, not sure what it's called, that, when closed, is flush with the hull. The two cockpit/blige ones have the handle, but not the part that is flush with the hull when closed. I'll try and get photos. Thanks. ...not good... Seriously? Boat is 38 years old. Never an issue. I realize thru hull design, like everything else, has evolved over the years, but these have never been an issue. Will try and get photos today.
  11. Bilge Pump Discharge question

    Especially if it's red brass from the hardware store, and reputable marine chandleries shouldn't even sell gate valves. Brass is made of copper and zinc alloy, which when submerged in salt water becomes its' own battery. The zinc dissolves and the the valve body shears off the next time you try to open or close it. Yours are below the waterline, so that's the perfect recipe for sending your boat to the bottom. That's worst case scenario. "Seacocks" should have a 90 degree handle so you know at a glance if it's open or closed. Cockpit drains should be free flowing, without valves, at or slightly above waterline, with port scuppers draining to starboard, and vice versa so that no matter which tack you're on, the cockpit still drains. Nothing else should share the cockpit drains. Bilge pumps typically shouldn't drain below the waterline as it puts back pressure on the pump. Same goes with check valves on the pump discharge. If you have two bilge pumps, the high water pump should discharge above the highest heeled waterline. At, or below the waterline, they should have a vented loop. Through-hull fittings are cheaper than a salvage operation, and drilling holes in boats above the waterline is easy. Money well spent for a good nights sleep. Thanks. The good news is, this boat has spent it's entire life in fresh water. All the thru hulls have a handle that looks like a faucet spigot handle that turns to open or close. All the thru hulls except the ones used for cockpit drains, when closed, have the part, not sure what it's called, that, when closed, is flush with the hull. The two cockpit/blige ones have the handle, but not the part that is flush with the hull when closed. I'll try and get photos. Thanks.
  12. Bilge Pump Discharge question

    Electric bilge pump is used rarely. Manual pumps have never been used. But, if needed, want them to work properly.
  13. Bilge Pump Discharge question

    Thanks.. Original setup had cockpit drains discharge thru one gate valve, manual bilge pumps thru a second gate valve, and the electric bilge pump was tied into cockpit drains. So no matter what I end up doing, will correct that. The galley sink is use for nothing other than dehumidifier discharged while docked. We use bottled, or filtered water to drink, and carry none in water tank. There are NO thru hulls above the waterline on this boat. The galley sink drain is closer to the waterline than the gate valves currently used.
  14. Bilge Pump Discharge question

    "Run the electric bilge pump, and the manual bilge pump that is down below, to the galley sink discharge, which also has a 1 1/2" ID connection." I do not think you want to do that. Try pouring a 5 gallon bucket of water into you galley sink. I think you will be surprised. The pumped water would fill your sink I am pretty sure unless you have a real weinie weak pump. Bilge pump should be thru hull above the waterline. YRMV That would not simulate reality; the sink it self does not have 1 1/2 inch drain. The bilge discharge (after the anti siphon loop), would go straight to the 1 1/2" thru hull, Sink drain would tap into this, via T fitting, above. As it is now, the electric bilge is joined to scupper drain (and has been, for 38 years), and the two manual bilge pumps are are joined to the other valve gate. Capacity is less (if any concern), than location of the galley sink thru hull, which is further outboard than the two gate valves, all of which are under the water line. Appreciate the discussion, keep the constructive thoughts coming.
  15. Bilge Pump Discharge question

    "unless combined system has sufficient capacity to handle maximum combined volume." That is from CYC Mac safety regs, Will check ISAF, but guessing it's similiar. Still doesn't answer question about moving to galley sink drain:)