jerryj2me

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About jerryj2me

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  1. jerryj2me

    Fire at Everett Marina

    https://www.heraldnet.com/news/boat-burns-on-everett-waterfront/
  2. jerryj2me

    Lightning protection or no?

    On that we can agree most certainly.
  3. jerryj2me

    Lightning protection or no?

    Reminder, it takes time for something to melt, that surge current comes and goes pretty fast, but generally the current pulse is over in under 200 us, so the wire can take a lot more juice than a DC situation before it melts.
  4. jerryj2me

    Race Boat Websites

    I see a lot of Facebook pages-groups for specific boats. I still just run an email list.
  5. jerryj2me

    Shore power gfi tripping

    If there is any current between neutral and ground the GFI will trip. That means that the currents in Hot and Neutral are not equal and opposite. Most GFI circuits are designed using a current transformer that uses Hot and Neutral to cancel each other out.
  6. jerryj2me

    Shore power gfi tripping

    A gentle reminder. The AC breaker switch only opens the Hot line, while ground and Neutral remain connected. This won't isolate any leakage between ground-neutral on those branches. What you are suggesting will not hurt, but it does not answer the question where the leakage path is between ground-neutral. An AC breaker switch can be open, Hot is disconnected on that branch of the system, but the leakage path between ground-neutral within that branch is still tied to all the other Ground-Neutral circuits in the system.
  7. jerryj2me

    Shore power gfi tripping

    Maybe, but that is doubtful. The AC side feeds a switching downconverter that is isolated by a transformer, generally a toroid (donut magnet) with an input and an output winding. That donut with the two wires wrapped on it would have to fail to do what you are describing. There's not a lot there to fail. That's the reason I suspect a leakage between neutral and ground on the AC side. That trips the GFCI, and there's a bunch of circuits there that can fail or leak and cause the problem. That's my motivation for suggesting disconnect all three AC leads into the charger and see if the problem still exists.
  8. jerryj2me

    Shore power gfi tripping

    I am suspecting a leakage path between "Neutral" and "Chassis Ground" on the AC side of the charger. Even if the "Hot" going into the charger is open (switched off) a leakage path will do this. Disconnect all three wires (Hot, Neutral, Ground) on the AC input to the charger and see if the problem then goes away. Here, something I wrote on this a while back - read the section on AC Power and grounding safety. The rest is not applicable: https://www.electronicdesign.com/power/essentials-ac-power-safety
  9. jerryj2me

    Shore power gfi tripping

    Clarification - When you run the charger with the battery switches off, your charger can be wired up to the batteries directly or through the cutoff switches. Which way is it set up? If its through the switches that means that the batteries are not drawing current, and thus no load to the AC side of the system. To me, the problem is something on the AC side of the system, that only becomes noticeable when DC current load goes up. That makes sense if you got a current leakage issue with the battery charger. Also, are your AC outlets, a direct feed from the AC side of the system, or are they powered from the batteries through an AC inverter? To sort this out need to know what's connected to the AC side of the system and then start eliminating those items. My first guess is that the battery charger is leaking current to ground.
  10. I would put a differential filter choke in line with both power connections to the device. (search "inline power noise filter" on EBay) As well consider shielding the noise generator as well. Think copper shield tape that gets tied to the ground of the device.
  11. LED bulbs with a "CE" mark do not generate Radio Interference. "CE" means "Conformite Europeenne" in French, or conformity with the European Standard (for LED lighting in this case). That standard puts a limit on the amount of Electromagnetic Interference of the LED. Extra components are put into the bulb circuitry to do this, at extra cost. I have used LED's that have the CE mark, and ones that don't. The former don't interfere with Radio reception, and the latter often (not always) do. I have bought chinese manufactured LEDs that carry the CE mark, and they perform well. I am not aware of whether or not there is a similar US standard to the CE mark for LED bulbs, or whether LED's sold in the US have the mark. IF the do, then you wont have the problem. CE mark just means that it conforms with the regulatory requirements of the EU. In the US the emissions standards you got to meet is generally FCC 15 B, or 15 A. Quick overview here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Title_47_CFR_Part_15
  12. The switching regulator can be locally choked with inductors or ferrites, to keep EMI off the wires, and locally filtered with capacitors or RC snubbers to reduce the actual magnitude of what gets generated. Add to that some intelligence in shielding and switching frequency and this is a manageable issue. This reeks of a hack design.
  13. Agreed - The devices that are full on should not cause EMI issues, but the devices driven by switching circuits can be electrically noisy. Whoever designed the dimming circuits was not thinking the EMI issue out. Properly done (select proper switching frequencies and use appropriate filters) and the devices should be just fine. Somebody needs to do a redesign.
  14. jerryj2me

    Electrical Issues

    Start with a voltmeter on the device showing bad behavior, then do whatever it is that causes the problem. See if the voltage drops a lot (more than a volt) Sounds to me like you got a power dropping down while under load sort of thing. That voltmeter will be your friend to finding out why.
  15. jerryj2me

    Heat treating stainless

    A good idea that I would take one step further - Don't freehand it on grinder. Mount it in a milling machine and accurately machine out the faces of the wrench. Find the closest metric or imperial wrench that is too small and use that as the starting point. That way you are taking off less than 1 mm or less than 1/16 of an inch.