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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About PaulK

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  1. Eclipse in Marblehead is where we go too. Great range of items in a variety of materials. Quick turnaround and friendly people.
  2. 505 7772 - Upgrade & Refit

    That cutout, with the piece missing across the top where you want to make the mast able to move aft further, looks like it will weaken the boat a LOT. Right where your hopefully heavy crew will be levering around from side to side on the trap and the mast will be adding pressure to the mix. Are you considering some reinforcement in to keep the boat from becoming a candidate for the One Australia 1995 fold & dive contest?
  3. Found one on Craigslist in NJ (Barnegat Bay) #7799 for $3000. A newer one in CT (shoreline) #14342 asking $4900 posted 02OCT. Good luck.
  4. 505 7772 - Upgrade & Refit

    Worked w/Awlgrip here this past spring on our J/36. Make sure to get new filter cartridges for your mask - the vapors are nasty. If you recoat fast enough you don't have to sand & solvent wash between them. We rolled & tipped. (It was outdoors and didn't want to spray and have half of it blow away.) Looks great.
  5. 505 7772 - Upgrade & Refit

    For the spinnaker poles - Where do you buy the end fittings, or do you make them?
  6. J-36 Rod Rigging

    Makes me glad we switched out our rope/wire halyards.
  7. Salut à tous

    Ya ne panimaiou, Panoramix. Stcho oni govorit?
  8. J24 foredeck Hatch - Help!

    One possible reason for re-design of hatches is now sitting on the bottom of Long Island Sound. The J/24 was racing downwind with its hatch open and the bow dove into a wave - submarined - so the green water slid up the deck and right down the hatch. The boat sank out from under them in about 60' of water with the sails still full and the crew still in their positions on deck. Smaller hatch now allows crew more reaction time.
  9. Chines in yacht design

    I would think that having the topsides come up vertically from the chine would help to reduce wetted surface. Any angle to the topsides at a chine would tend to increase wetted surface. Angling the topsides outwards would also add weight, not only for the additional amount of topsides (hull) but also for the deck that would have to be extended to cover the now wider boat. Angling the topsides inwards might reduce the deck width and weight, but would still add to the hull weight (due to the extended sides of the hull) and the wetted surface. Angling the topsides inward might also lead to reduced buoyancy as the hull submerged more... not necessarily what you want if you're surfing down a wave and might get pooped.
  10. Lower boat size limit for climbing the mast?

    When I was about 10 I sent a friend up the mast on a Blue Jay in order to measure the distance from the top to the hounds. He dropped the ruler into the water and I went over to the side to get it before it floated away...
  11. Unless his "going missing" was to create more motivated SAR operation. Maybe he was staying in the Captain's quarters.
  12. Duh question, moisture meters

    If you go to look at a boat with a broker and take a moisture meter with you is he going to stop you from using it? Not likely. You are inspecting a boat that you might want to buy. You are not poking your knife into the planks, pulling out loose caulking, or even banging on the fiberglass with a hammer to see if there's any delamination. Your meter isn't going to damage anything, and won't cost as much as a survey. Be careful interpreting the readings though. When we had our J/36 surveyed, the first surveyor told us that the hull was completely saturated below the waterline. We contemplated this and reasoned that if it was that wet, the freezing temperatures we'd had over the winter should have delaminated everything. But there was no delamination. We called in a second surveyor. He put his meter on the hull from the inside and found no moisture. The first surveyor's meter was apparently reading moisture levels in the antifouling paint. The second surveyor turned out to be right. We've had the boat 20 years now, and are still beating J/109's boat for boat when we race it.
  13. Seems like a lot of work to raise freeboard and add weight of new decking, cabin and furniture and still end up with a boat where you can't stand up down below. You could get a Tartan 10 and add a varnished cabin trunk to make it pretty for a LOT less - even if the Etchells was a given to you for free.
  14. Scuff marks on Awlgrip

    We've tried FSR for blemishes on ours. It seems to clean things up color-wise, but leaves the area looking dull.
  15. Race Committee screw ups

    Look up the Moosehead Awards. On Wednesday our PRO sent about a dozen boats up to a windward mark that hadn't been set for the season yet. Stuff happens all the time. Some of it is noteworthy.