sailorman44

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About sailorman44

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    Anarchist
  • Birthday 10/13/1938

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    CT/FL

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  1. sailorman44

    Best grippy shoes

    Almost any sneaker is good for one season. I had a pair of Harken boat shoes that I kept on the boat, never touched anything but deck. By the second season thy were a little slippery. By the third season it was like ice skating. Now I get a new pair of sneakers for the boat at the start of the season.
  2. sailorman44

    cover for dyneema

    Be a little careful here. If the cover is a little loose it will be OK to go around a winch but If you are using the cover to get a better grip on the dyneema where it goes through a rope clutch, the clutch will chew up the cover to the point it will jam in the clutch. I use dyneema halyards and found that they would slip in the clutch. When I put on covers and the covers got chewed up. I inserted a piece of 1/4" double bread core into the 1/4" dynemma to thicken it up then installed a 5/16 cover over it. This arrangement lasted thru the season. Now I inspect the cover on the halyard before using it.
  3. sailorman44

    Cost Of Finishes

    The list does not include AwlWood from the AwlGrip people. A fairly new product in the last three years. I used it last season and was very pleased with the result. At the end of the season it looked better than Epifains did at the beginning of the season. It is somewhat labor intensive as the old varnish needs to be stripped so that the primer can be applied. After that it is much like applying any varnish. The one trick is that it needs to be thinned out a bit in order to flow. Not thinning results in a bumpy finish. Price was around $65 a quart.
  4. sailorman44

    Black Widow Bottom Paint

    For the past 4 or 5 years I have been using ePaint HP. It works well in my area but is has maintenance problems (see previous threads on ePaint performance). Last season I decided to give BW a try and stripped the keel and rudder. Applied two coats of BW. First coat went on really smooth but the second coat felt prickly to the hand. Burnished with 3M brown scrub pad on a da sander. Produced a smooth, polished surface. Performance wise the BW was much better than ePaint. When the ePaint had slime after three week the BW was clean. At the end of the season when the ePaint was getting small barnacles the BW had light slime. Last fall I stripped the rest of the bottom and will put on BW this spring.
  5. sailorman44

    ASYMMETRIC SPINNAKERS

    In one of his books Phil Bolger talked using a half spinnaker on one of his designs.He was happy with the performance.
  6. sailorman44

    Crousing Code Zero / Code 0 ... advice

    One Sail is not easily available in the US. More than a year ago I saw a One Sail advertisement which included a video of their cableless aysms and code zero My emails to them in Australia were unanswered. Since then they have opened a loft on the east coast of the US. Within the last year there have been several threads of SA about cableless asyms and code zeros. Looking at their current website it appears that the code zero you are interested in, the FFR is a cabled sail and not IFS. Look at the luff sag in the picture and compare it to the PFR code zero which is IFS. I think the FFR is more of a speciality sail designed to be closer winded than the PFR but with less overall range. To me, I think the PFR is the better bet for a cruising application. If you decide to go with the FFR be aware of the problems associated with a two part halyard. The two parts tend to wrap around themselves as the sail is raised. When you tension the halyard they really jam together and when the halyard is released the tend to stay jammed. I have gone up the mast several times to untwist them to get the sail down. I have switched to a three part tackle in the tack line to tension the code zero luff. How is the One Sail gennaker working for you? I assume that it is an IFS sail. How well does ti furl? The video showed an asym furling on a slack halyard with a tight furl but it didn't show it from the beginning of the furl. Do you need to tighten the luff initially to get the furl started?
  7. sailorman44

    awlgrip repair kit

    Tell me about it. I painted my boat last fall. The AwlGrip supplies alone cost over $1000 wholesale. I have a good supply of sandpaper and other stuff needed for the job.
  8. sailorman44

    awlgrip repair kit

    Not so. AwlGrip can be touched up to the level of 5 feet perfect, either sprayed or rolled. How well the repair blends is dependent on the original color. Some colors fade more than others. Red is a big problem, flag blue, not so much. It takes a real pro to tint the paint to match the faded original paint. My boat is whisper gray and the only tell tell sign of a touch up is that it is a little shiner than rest of the paint. There are two tricks to rolling AwlGrip for small touch ups. The first, as DDW said, is to thin out the paint more than you think you should, thinner than for spraying, and put on multiple coats. The second is the roller. If you use a Wooster Red Feather roller cover and a light touch you will not need to tip. They are hard to find but worth the effort.
  9. sailorman44

    awlgrip repair kit

    I don't believe such a thing exists. I have never seen AwlGrip sold in quaintly less than a quart. AwlGrip is generally a professional application and the pros already have everything needed. Not much demand for touchup kits. Build your own kit. Get 545 primer, converter, and thinner, topcoat, topcoat converter, and thinner, sandpaper in various grits, and other implements of destruction. Before you go out and spend $250 to $500 on all the stuff you need to do the job, ask yourself, are you capable? Do you have any experience painting a car or boat? It is a lot more difficult than it looks and the main ingredient to success is experience. 95% of a good paint job is preparation. Take a look at how to paint a car or boat on You Tube to get an idea of what it takes to get an acceptable result. It may be cheaper to hire a pro although once you have the experience you have it forever.
  10. sailorman44

    Noob, advise welcome

    Do some research. There have been a dozen threads on painting on SA over the past few years including a current one on Fix it Anarchy. The more important question to ask is, are you capable of doing the job? Do you have the life experience? 95% of a good paint job is preparation. and if you have never done it before it is a long and tedious job. Putting the actual paint on the boat is the least of it. You have no idea how meticulous you have to be to get a good job. And that is only to get it 5 foot prefect. Here is a video of a pro painter painting a car. Not the same as a boat but the prep work is pretty much the same except fiberglass instead of metal. This is probably a $10,000 paint job and it is 6 inch perfect but unlike most paint jobs, half the work as in the actual painting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjOOTaHa8GI
  11. sailorman44

    source for small qauantities of prepreg?

    Anything you want to know you can find on youtube. These guys are the source for everything you need to do prepreg. There are other sources but I was struck by how professional they were and the quality of the finished product. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ1Q4XmItN0&t=474s
  12. sailorman44

    Newbie sailor. What's my next move?

    Every racing skipper I know is looking for crew. Every Wednesday night the talk on the dock is "got any extra crew?" Even if I have enough crew I will take on a newbe because next time, I will need crew. I like to have experienced crew but the only way to get them is to train them. It is easy to get on a boat. Wednesday night beer can races are the best place to start. Look at the web site for local clubs to determine which have racing programs. Be on the dock at least an hour before the start and ask "who needs crew" Chances are very good you will get a ride. Your first position on the boat will be "rail meat" but if you are useful and quite you will be invited back. Helping with the maintenance will be appreciated and you will gain experience that will be useful when you get your own boat. Do not buy a boat until you have several years sailing experience. You will learn 10 times more racing than you will day sailing on your own. You will also find that your interest and requirements for a boat will change as you gain experience. Remember: "The Other Guy's Boat Club" is the best club to belong to. 95% of the fun 0% of the cost.
  13. sailorman44

    Torqeedo Pod Drive

    I am interested in knowing more also. I am interested in a Saffier 27 Leisure which is equipped with a Torqeedo pod drive and I have concerns. My only experience with Torqeedo is a friend who tried one of their outboards on his GP26. It was a mile and a half from his dock to the starting area and the Torqeedo could barely make it. Not as fast as his gas outboard and not enough juice to get back. Not impressed.
  14. sailorman44

    Crew memberships required for racing at yacht club?

    Time to change the board. It is hard enough to find crew without that kind of stupidity.
  15. sailorman44

    Cable less Code Zero development