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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

sailorman44

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About sailorman44

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  • Birthday 10/13/1938

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    CT/FL

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  1. Trinidad SR for a racing bottom in Puget Sound?

    ePaint information here: http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/178757-any-epaint-users-with-good-results/&tab=comments#comment-5542571
  2. Harken Screecher Furling System

    Not sure what you are asking. Are you asking about the performance of screecher type sails? In my experience screecher is a term used mostly by multi hulls. More common useage for mono hulls is Code Zero. Both are close reaching spinnaker type sails that are roller furled on an anti torsion luff rope. In which case the Harken Reflex furler system is over kill, much better than it needs to be. There are cheaper options available. If you asking about the performance of the new Harken Reflex anti torsion rope system? Then you are probably interested in top down furling for an asymmetrical spinnaker. I don't have direct experience with the Harken Reflex system. I do have experience with top down furling. When it works it is a thing of beauty, but it only worked half the time. It furled fine but when you tried to deploy the sail it would only unfurl part way. Resent knowledge has it that if you don't "relax" the anti torsion rope after the furl while there is still tension on the rope that when you do release tension by dropping the sail, the anti torsion rope will "relax" and unwind a bit capturing a bit of the sail and winding it backwards. This will lock up the sail and keep it from deploying completely. The Harken Reflex furler system is supposed to eliminate that problem. Don't understand your comment about "rigging it just prior to hoisting". There is no rigging. The spinnaker is already furled around the anti torsion rope, you just hoist it and unfurl it. Each spinnaker needs its own dedicated anti torsion rope. There have been a number of threads regarding top down furling and Code Zero.
  3. Asymmetric spinnaker vs poled out jib

    That's a tough call. I sail with an asym in a mixed Wednesday night fleet. The cruising canvas class that start ahead of me do pretty well. We usually catch them before the finish but not always. The more wind the better I do. My boat has a non overlapping jib so I really need the asym. I have an A2 runner that I can carry at an apparent wind of 160, true wind is pretty much ddw. If your races use government marks the wind direction seldom aligns with the course so gybing is not an issue. In any case gybing an asym is a lot easier than gybing a symmetrical spinnaker. The bigger problem is getting it up and getting it down. Velcro bands on the sail is a big help getting it up and if your main is loose footed a letter box drop is a safe way to get it down. Just for comparison, I am 78, I do foredeck on my boat and the A2 is 2000 sq ft.
  4. Anodizing vs powder coating for aluminum mast

    Unless the tube is anodized the powder coating will corrode off within a year. I made patterns and had deck hardware, chocks and cleats, cast in aluminum to save weight. I had them powder coated and they looked great for a few months until corrosion started under the powder coating. Within a year the powder coating was completely gone.
  5. I've lost my balls

    Right, none of their equipment is repairable. They think you should replace. Their customer service sucks, had to call England to light a fire under the US office to get them to respond. Sold a bill of goods by the local Lewmar rep when I was building the boat. If I can't repair it I replace it with Harken.
  6. I've lost my balls

    I built my boat so the Lewmar jib car came on a loader, which I kept. When the end cap breaks and it is sure to happen because the car end caps are plastic, you can get new end caps from Lewmar. Get several sets as it will happen again. You can get balls from McMasters Carr for a third the price of Lewmar. Slide the car onto the loader, turn it over and dribble the balls into the car, there is a notch in the loader to do that, no toothpaste needed. Do not over fill. When the car if full slide it down the loader and tape over the notch. Remove the end stop from the loader, align the loader with the track and slide the car onto the track. After the second time it happened I took a plastic end cap to my local foundry and had several cast in aluminum. A little cleanup with a Dremel tool and they work fine, no further breakage.
  7. Need a winch socket

    Need a winch socket from a Barlow winch. The one I am replacing was from a Barlow 25 self trailer. It has been re purposed to spin the boom to furl the mainsail on my boat. the bottom of the socket fits into a one inch bore in the mast, slides onto a hex shaft on the end of the goose neck pin. Insert a winch handle and role up the sail. The outer ring of my socket has broken off, would like to replace it.
  8. I have painted a number of boats using Awlgrip paint, both spraying and roll and tip. By preference I'd spray the top sides, even with masking off it's faster but not a better finish. I use roll and tip for touch up and small areas like cockpits and cabin tops. When rolling and tipping you roll to spread the paint and get a uniform film thickness then tip to get rid of the bubbles that rolling caused. The paint needs to be thinned to work well, to about the same degree as with spraying. Better to do 3 or 4 thin coats rather than 1 or 2 thick coats, less chance of runs. If you are getting runs then you are rolling the paint on too thick, spread it out more. The West System foam rollers work well, they are thinner tolerant. Wooster Red Feather rollers are even better, they seldom need tipping, great for touch up. Put leftover catalyzed paint and rollers/brushes in the freezer overnight for use the next day. Check over your work before applying the next coat. Any imperfections can be lightly sanded before re coating. To roll non skid areas add half cabosil and half micro balloons to the paint, mixed to the consistency of sour cream. Roll the thickened paint out to a uniform thickness then roll it lightly with a contact cement roller to get a uniform non skid pattern. By controlling the stiffness of the paint and the thickness of the film you can vary the texture of the non skid from almost slippery to rip your pants.
  9. Buying a boat in EU and shipping to US

    While I realize that your delight in life is to be the nattering nabob of negativity I will answer your rhetorical question seriously. I was at the Newport boat show and looked at an American built boat that I think was called a Starwind. It was designed by Tony Castro and reviewed be Bob Perry. I thought it a good looking boat. It was pretty spartan, not much in the way of interior amenities, no sails, no engine. Right next to it was a Beneteau, 3 feet longer, full teak interior, equipped galley, diesel engine, sails, anchor, ready to go sailing. By the time I equipped the Starwind to a similar level, it would be $10-15,000 more than the Beneteau. The next year, noticing that the dollar was strong I started looking for a boat in Europe. I sent out letters of inquiry and got responses in broken English, sometimes written by his children because the boat builder didn't speak English. Noticed that most of the boats I was interested in were available in England so decided to limit my search. Went to England and bought a Feeling 920. 23,000 English pounds. added a 100% jib, dodger, self tailing wenches and a couple of other goodies. Add shipping to the US, clearing customs, shipping to New London, less than $35,000. No problems with electrical (they use 12 volts in Europe), no problem with propane, no problem with registering the boat in Connecticut. It was the money, honey.
  10. Buying a boat in EU and shipping to US

    I bought a new European boat in 1985. Talked to a lot of builders/brokers in Denmark, Germany, France, Spain, and England. Settled on an English broker, he spoke English more or less. Other countries, not so much. Bought a French built boat thru the broker, hired a local "marine consultant" to sort out the broker. The broker prepped the boat for delivery and arranged transport via role-on-role-off car carrier to New Jersey. Hired a "freight forwarder" to clear customs and arrange shipping to New London, CT. The pound was $1.13, opened an account at an English bank, Nat West, in New York, bought pounds forward to lock in the exchange rate. By the time the boat was delivered the pound was $1.39. Looked at boats in England in January, ordered the boat. The first boat was damaged in transport from France to England, the broker didn't say anything but the marine consultant did. Second boat ordered and was delivered to New London in June. The process was pretty much painless, Registerd the boat in CT, paid CT tax, no problem.
  11. Best bottom paint for Aluminum hulls?

    ePaint has a bottom paint specifically for aluminum boats which is supposed to work well. Used by the USCG. Only problem is that ePaint is sunlight activated and being stored on shore for long periods would degrade it. Maybe put a skirt around the barge to protect it from direct sunlight. On the other hand it is a work barge that doesn't move around a lot. What does it matter if it gets fouled? When it comes out for storage a pressure wash will get most of the fouling off.
  12. Olson 30 Assym?

    Do some research. Look at courses and true wind angles. On downwind and reaches what has the true wind angle been historically? Also look at historical wind speed. Then decide wether an A1 or A2 is the better bet. At lower wind speeds reaching will provide better downwind vmg. Your true wind angle will be around 135 and apparent less than 90. At higher wind speeds you can carry an A2 to 160-165 true but won't be able to carry it higher than 90 and in really strong wind you may be better off with a symmetrical if you can carry both without penalty. Look into used spinnakers. You can buy a used A1 and A2 for Less than half the cost of a new spinnaker. I bought a used A2 for $500, the got a new one for $4000. Try them out, get some experience, and fine tune what you need before you spend the big bucks and find you made a mistake. What is the rating hit for a 1.5% penalty pole? A additional .25% probably won't make a noticable difference. Mine is 1.28% and I have had no problem. I had a 3' longer pole and went back.
  13. PHRF Blows

    PHRF assumes that all boats are well sailed and well prepared. If you have a popular boat, a known quantity to PHRF, its rating is fair for most of the people sailing that boat. Excellent sailors will sail above that rating and poor sailors bellow it. If you really want to know how good you are get into one design racing. If you have an oddball boat you are in trouble. PHRF says “ It looks fast, we'll give it a low rating and see how it does. If the owner complains we can adjust”. The path to a fair rating is a long slow process. They don't want to make too big a change, they might over do it, so it is a multi year process. With persistence you can get a fair rating. Eventually. I agree with Ventuckian regarding adjusting ratings for wind speed. Light and moderate wind, no need for heavy wind. If the wind speed gets to 20 the RC usually cancels the race. Average summer conditions in Eastern Connecticut are 7 knots true, which means that for most races it is less because the RC insists on starting the race early before the sea breeze fills in and then shortening the race so the party can start at 3 pm. The best sailing of the day is on the way home. The question is: how do we get PHRF, which is change averse, to accept a wind speed rating adjustment? PHRF is a regional organization with little central leadership or control and not a lot of cooperation between regions. At the local level the membership of the handicap committee is relatively static. There is little turnover and getting on the handicap committee is political. If you are a advocate for improvement(change) they want nothing to do with you.
  14. Integral Hydraulic Backstay Adjuster

    I have had a Sailtek adjuster on two boats for over 25 years without a problem. The second adjuster started leaking at the pump end and would not hold pressure. A local guy had the seals but they popped as soon as there was resistance. Sailtek did a complete rebuild for less than $300. Great service, no problem since.
  15. Sailing/Racing in Central Florida

    Lake Eustis Sailing Club has a fleet of 40+ MC scows as well as Flying Scots. Not unusual to have 25 - 30 boats on the line for a race. Sarasota Sailing Squadron has a fleet of 20+ E scows with active racing on Wednesday afternoons and weekends. If you have never raced an E scow be prepared to be blown away. Also a fleet of MC scows which is not active just now. SSS also has an active fleet of multi hulls, tris and cats which race regularly as well as an active PHRF fleet.