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About sailorman44

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  • Birthday 10/13/1938

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  1. sailorman44

    Boot & Cove stripe over Awlgrip

    AwlGrip. Don't know why AwlGrip has such a hard to apply reputation. I have used it for years and have never had a problem. For small jobs and touch ups I use a Wooster Red Feather roller. Don't need to tip. Use a little more reducer than when spraying and do several coats. Alternatively, try vinyl tape. Available in colors and widths. Don't forget to sight down the waterline as well as across. Seen a lot of wavy boot tops that look good from the side.
  2. Bagatelle is a long term committed racing program. We are looking for eager sailors of every level who want to race. Specifically looking for individuals who will learn multiple positions, including driving. We are committed to a mixed crew makeup of men/women, all levels of experience. Looking to build a team. The 2018 season will include the Wednesday night beer can races and 8-10 weekend ECSA races including Off Soundings. The boat is light and fast with a big sail plan. Members must to be fit and agile. Tom Doyle 860 912 3050
  3. sailorman44

    Another Awlgrip touch-up question

    Are you sure it is panted? Production boats are not usually painted, just gelcoat. Dark blue on a boat is problem because the dark color absorbs more heat and the resin continues to cure causing the weave of the reinforcements to show through. On custom boats the hull is often post cured when it is known that it will be a dark color, production boats, not so much. Talk to previous owner and the builder to determine what you have.
  4. sailorman44

    Got in a bit of trouble.

    The best teacher is experience so don't let this bad experience put you off sailing. I assume that you have some kind of motor to get you back to your mooring/dock. The problem is how to get the sails down in a controlled manner. First, get on a reach where the boat is under control without too much heel and you are comfortable with it and you have enough sea room that you are not going to crash in anything. Then ease the main sheet and let the main luff, this will slow you down. Next, tie a line to the tiller and to something on the windward side of the cockpit, adjust the line so the tiller is in a position that steers a steady course. Tie off the tiller to the leeward side so the tiller can't inadvertently flip over, a bungee cord would be better. Wait a few minutes to be sure that the control lines are adjusted properly and the boat is not going to change course. Go forward and lower the main, secure the main to the boom so that it is not all over the deck and cockpit. Once the main is secure, lower the jib and secure it. Now the sails are down and secure and you are adrift so you can set up your motor and go home. With experience you will be better prepared, you will have a self steering setup with adjustable secure point ready to go, learn to sail up to your mooring/dock, it all comes with experience. If nothing goes wrong you don't learn. On my boat the main and jib halyards are secured on the mast. I have a self tending jib and I often single hand. When it is time to get the sails down I attach the tiller pilot and start the engine, turn up into the wind and go forward at just enough speed to overcome the force of the wind. Then with the tiller pilot keeping the boat up into the wind I go forward and secure the jib and main.
  5. sailorman44

    Where to Buy Marine Plywood?

    General Woodcraft in New London, 860-444-9663
  6. sailorman44

    Awlgrip touch-up

    Some local hardware/builder stores in CT carry Wooster products but not the Red Feather cover. The best place I have found is Amazon, usually 2 or 3 day delivery without doing overnight. They are 2 to a pack and I buy 6 packs at a time to be sure to have enough. They are a little pricey at $6 a pack but if you wrap the cover in cling wrap an put it in the freezer overnight you can use it indefinitely. Same for any left over catalyzed paint. It does has a strong odor so your wife may yell at you for stinking up her refrigerator. No need to tip. Tipping is to get rid of the bubbles that the roller leaves behind. The trick is to thin out the paint, more than you would if you were spraying, and put on multiple coats. On a warm day you can do 2-3 coats in a day. Also with multiple coats, if you screw up, just wet sand it and do another coat. Some AwlGrip colors do fade, red is especially bad but dark blue doesn't seem to. My old Flag Blue boat is still in the area. 12 years later I touched it up for the current owner with no problem. The touch up was shinier than the surrounding area but a 3M product called Finessse brought back the shine. If the paint is really dull you may want to use 3Ms Perfect It rubbing compound. I have never used AwlCraft but have never had a problem touching up a ding on my boat. Then again I have never had a red boat. The blue boat had a red boottop which faded after a couple of years and I replaced it with white. My current boat is Whisper Gray and that has not faded.
  7. sailorman44

    Want to do a new design 30 square meter build

    Good on you! Love the 30 square meter boats. Would love to see a modern interpretation of these beautiful boats. Building your own boat is a gratifying proposition. Building out of wood, strip with a cold molded overlay produces a strong light boat. Researched ProBoat and found no articles about 30 square meter boats, Wooden Boat has about 30 articles. I have a design proposal that Tanton did for me in 1999. I really liked the look but in the end I went in a different direction. It was not a 30 square meter but that was the look I was after. Tanton could probably find it if you were interested.
  8. sailorman44

    Awlgrip touch-up

    Look at late model cars, pick a close color match, the color code is usually on a sticker on the door jamb. Then google "auto touch up paint" for that make, year and color. It won't be a perfect match but will be better than off the shelf rattle can paint. If your boat isn't a trailer queen it won't be the only time it will need a touch up so you may decide to go with AwlGrip. If you roll , a Wooster Red Feather roller cover will produce results as good a spraying, Just thin the paint out and put on multiple coats. Aristo Blue is pretty dark. I had a boat painted Flag Blue and it didn't fade at all. You may get a perfect color match with AwlGrip.
  9. sailorman44

    What Paint to Use?

    Whichever catalyzed paint you end up using: if you spray be sure you have a remote air supply to your face mask, if you decide to roll and tip, you can avoid the tipping part by using a Wooster Red Feather roller cover. Thin the paint a little more than you would for spraying and apply multiple coats. By the time you get to the third coat you will have the technique down. The Red Feather covers are hard to find locally but are readily available online, and at a better price. You won't be able to tell that it wasn't sprayed.
  10. sailorman44

    VIRB 360 and instrument data - it works!

    Is the Garmin 360 the only Garmin action camera that can embed instrument data in the video? The ultra 30 has G-Metrix capability and is a lot cheaper.
  11. sailorman44

    Taping rigging to prevent snags on cotter pins

    It is not just carter keys on turnbuckles that need to be wrapped. My boat uses clevis pins to attach the spreaders to the mast. I have had the spinnaker ripped when it blew back into the mast while taking it down. These carter keys are not easily wrapped. I make sure the ends of the key are well turned in and use a glob of silicon calk on the carter keys to protect the sails. Also, I was sailing on an E scow when the spinnaker ripped on a meat hook on he wire to rope connection of the jib halyard. Another place to use of silicon/rigging tape.
  12. sailorman44

    What Code 0?

    Now that you have bit the bullet I would encourage you to go the extra distance and get a furler for your new code zero. It will make life so much easier. If it looks like a light air day put the code zero up and leave it up. If the wind goes light, roll it out. If the wind pipes up, roll it up. There will be some windage but you are cruising: so what. Raising the rolled up code zero is so much easier then trying to put up the unrolled code zero by yourself. Especially if you use a guide rope like the Volvo boats do. It will keep the swivel from getting caught in the spreaders and rigging. If you think you might add a furler in the future make sure the sail maker puts in a luff rope now that will be suitable for furling at a later date. Also, looking at the graphic of your new code zero, I would say that it looks more like a code 1 made out of nylon or polyester. Not really strong enough or flat enough for any but the lightest conditions, less than 4 knots true wind close reaching. Also look at the flying shape of the new sail from an aft prospective, look at the flow off the leech. If it doesn't look more like a jib than a spinnaker is is the wrong shape for what you want to do. I have two code zeros. One was part of the initial sail inventory when I built the boat in 2001. This sail is about 900 sq ft made from storm lite, a kind of dacron, by North, without a furler and used occasionally when conditions were just right. I can carry this sail to 30 degree apparent, around 65 - 70 degrees true wind angle. Close reaching, I can carry it to 7 knots true wind speed, up to 12 -15 knots true at 60 -70 degrees apparent. This sail was not furling and I only used it when a full crew was available. I got the second code zero three yeas ago. This sail is smaller, around 600 sq ft and much flatter. My boat has a 3/4 fractional non overlapping jib and is disadvantaged in less than 7 knots of true wind. The new code zero is meant to be a light air upwind sail and has worked pretty well. I can carry it to 25 degrees apparent up to 6 knots true, more reaching off. Not quite as good as it sounds as the best true wind angle I have been able to achieve is 52 degrees. A mast head genoa of the same size would be 5 degrees closer winded, but PHRF would ding me 15 points for it. The new code zero is made from polymax, another dacron product, by my local sail maker, Keven Farrar. In hindsight I wish I had used a stronger material, something like carbon sport with liteskin. Code zeros are heavily loaded. The smaller more so than the older code zero. In order to reduce luff sag the luff load is around 4000 lbs. The sheet load is similarly high. I have broken a 3/8 polyester double braid sheet. I have concerns about the longevity of dacron at these loads. Loads on your code zero will be less, more in the order of 2000 lbs, but more than nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth can stand. Since I got the smaller code zero and have the furler available, I have converted to old code zero to furling. That sail came with a kevlar luff rope which was strong enough for luff loads but too twisty to furl. After I replaced it with an anti torsion rope it furled fine. Since I converted it to furling I find I use it a lot more often when single handing or just going for a day sail. What used to be chore getting it up and down by myself is now easy. Putting the rolled up code zero away is a lot easier than flaking and folding the unfurled sail. The furled code zero is a smaller package than when unfurled in the bag. By the way, why are you carrying so many sails that you don't use? You haven't used the spinnaker in a couple of years, you don't use the 150 anymore. What else do you have that you haven't used in two years? You probably have a ton of gear than you haven't used in years. time for a boat cleaning.
  13. sailorman44

    What Code 0?

    Not really. A furler makes it easier to get it up or down but has no effect on performance. I have used. a code zero without a furler for 15 years. It is not a sail I use every day but on a light air reach leg the boat is turbo charged. I didn't get a furler because it was not a sail that I would use often and with a full crew getting it us and down was not a problem. Sailor John has concerns about cost and the anti torsion rope and furler will cost $2500-3000. My proposal would save a lot of the initial cost and give him 85% of the performance of a code zero. If it turns out that taking the sail down is too much work the sock can be added later. If he needs the sock he should look for an ATN sock with the fiberglass bell at the throat. I will be somewhat difficult to compress the heavier fabric of the genoa and you want to have as little drag as possible. Also the sail should be luffing as you pull the sock down. BTW, the easiest way to get a non furling code zero down in a non racing situation is to go head to wind to drop the sail. It will fall onto the deck within the life lines. Get a couple of sail ties on and you are good to go.
  14. sailorman44

    What Code 0?

    Same way it works on a code zero.
  15. sailorman44

    Recognize anyone?

    I came across an 8 meter boat stripped and abandoned, open to the weather in a field behind a boat yard in Maine sometime in the 90s. Was told it was Angelita, a Olympic gold medal winner. The boat had been structurally restored by cold molding the hull and replacing the deck. The boat actually looked pretty good, hull fair, deck solid, interior clean. It had only been out in the weather for a week or so. Was told the boat could be had for little or nothing. Some broker/builder in Camden had talked the owner into doing a "true" restoration by building a replica using the original building method and using original equipment and parts stripped from the actual boat to make it "authentic". Go figure. It was more of a money pit than I wanted to get involved with so I ran away from it.