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58 Kiss-ass

About sailorman44

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  • Birthday 10/13/1938

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  1. Hi Sailorman,  I have been right into your design when Eric Sponberg started talking of the design process with Client. ,  Proboat was my monthly handbook for everything boatbuilding....  then to the build.    and the rig......always was interested to see the articulated spinaker poles in action....but loved the centerboard and the lifting rudder in its pivot housing...loved the style of rig....I would follow up doing a google on Erics site.   then he went sailing. .....then I found the Ad for sale. ..and for hours [months] I studied the photos.  she is narrow but then I had sailed half way around the world on a 9'6  56' cold molded staysal schooner uk built boat....very easy to sail in storms and 240 miles would be reeled of regularly. even sailed big miles after tiller rudder join failed ....     I am very happy to see this photo with assymetric up on that tall rig...a highlight.  and a surprise.  and you are here on SA    This is a great design.    Thankyou   Kind regards Huey

  2. sailorman44

    new j/day

    JimBowie Bagatelle is a KISS44. Kiss as in Keep It Simple, Stupid. She is an Eric Sponberg design from 2000, cold molded, cored plywood deck, cored fiberglass house and cockpit, carbon fiber mast.
  3. sailorman44

    new j/day

    In defense of day sailing. If I go on the club cruise there will be at least one day of no wind, at least one day of rain and probably one day of too much wind. When I go for a day sail I get to pick the weather and it it isn't good I'll pass. I sail 4 or 5 days a week, 6 if there is a week end race. If there is no wind or rain, pass. If it blowing dogs off their chains, pass, Been there, done that, don't need to prove anything any more. I am going sailing to have an enjoyable experience not fight mother nature. My boat was designed as a day sailor. I can get under way by myself in 10 minutes and put it away in 10 minutes It has a self tacking jib so sailing single handed is a breeze. The jib is roller furled and the main furls on the boom, furling the main takes 30 seconds. There is an electric winch to get the main up. Did I mention that the main is really big? So if it is a nice day and the sea breeze has filled in I'm going sailing. If a couple of friends come along that's great maybe we will fly a spinnaker. If nobody can come I will go alone, the boat was designed for it. And if it is a light air day I'll fly a code zero, it is roller furled and easy to handle single handed. My boat was designed as a day sailor but it is capable of cruising. There are comfortable accommodation for two and pipe berths for two more. There is a marine head with stand up head room. Headroom in the galley and navigation station, you can stand up to put your pants on. My boat was designed as a day sailor but I race it. It is not a serious race boat but we have taken our share of silver. It is particularly effective on a reach or down wind. 14 knots is not unusual in a good breeze. Its small non overlapping jib penalizes it upwind. It is a very stiff boat and can be raced effectively with 4 active people, now that I getting along in years I like to have a 5th. As far as weather is concerned it is racing; you take what you get. Some of the folks on this thread only see there boats if there is a race. To my mind they are not getting much value from their boats. Most of us use our boats for a lot more than racing; racing is fun but that is not all there is. In reality, we mostly day sail. Don't have time to cruise for a week or month. We do the Wednesday night race and day sail with family and friends on the weekend. If you are retired as I am there are a lot of day sailing opportunities. When I retired I was looking for a project and decided to design a boat for the way I actually sail. Mostly day sailing, an occasional cruise, and not too serious racing. L Francis designed some boats he called "Maine day boats". Quite Tune was one of them. Biggish day sailors with enough accommodations to overnight. If you were having a great sail you could keep on going, drop the hook in some convenient cove and return the next day. I like that concept.
  4. sailorman44

    new j/day

    You sound like someone who has never actually held a varnish brush. If you had you would know that the most time consuming thing about varnish is waiting for the varnish to dry, the actual varnishing takes little time in comparison. Case in point: time it actually takes to do the varnish work on my boat. My boat is a bigger day sailor than the Knockabout with a lot more bright work. Tape off all bright work - 1 - 1.5 hours Initial sanding with 240 grit - 2.5 - 3 hours My bright work is in good shape to begin with so that makes it easier. Wash down bright work and deck with soap and water, dry bright work to avoid water spots - 1 hour Next morning put on the first build coat of varnish - 1 - 1.25 hours That afternoon put on second build coat - 1 - 1.25 hours Next morning sand with 320 paper to flatten - 1.5 -2 hours Wash down with soap and water, dry bright work - 1 hour That afternoon put on final coat - 1.5 - 2 hours I am more careful here as it is the final coat. Remove masking tape - .5 hours So, 13.5 hours of actual work, 3 days of drying time when you could do something productive like take a nap or read a book or paint the bottom. Note that I am using AwlWood, if I were using regular varnish I would do a third build coat. Not too much to pay for pride of ownership.
  5. sailorman44

    Installing Sanitation Hose On A Barbed Fitting

    There is a trick I have used to shape PVC tubing. Fill the tube with hot sand and it becomes a noodle. Shape it, let it cool, and pour the sand out. In Your case I would use two pieces of poly x, a short piece to get it on the hose barb and get past the curve then a poly x connector to the long piece. When filling the short piece with sand be sure to use a metal funnel as the hot sand will melt a plastic one. The sand gets much hotter than water.
  6. sailorman44

    Is PHRF waking up from along slumber?

    Why bother? A new rule develops, gains adherents, gets established as THE rule and all is well. Until dissatisfaction for the rule builds to a critical point, a new rule develops and repeat. This has been going on as long as sailboats have been racing. 90% of sailors don't care. They just want to go out on Wednesday night and have a good time. My club gets 30 boats out on a Wednesday night. 2 or 3 will participate in regional week end races. Once in a while 1 will do a class national or NOOD race. By and large PHRF serves their needs. That is not to say that there aren't problems with PHRF. It is not the concept of rating boats based on observed performance that is the problem. It is the application of the rule. PHRF is based on regional sailing associations. Look at the by laws of your sailing association and you will find that it is a self perpetrating old boys club. They say that the sailors are the members but you are not. You are the clients. You pays your fee and you gets your rating certificate. Your club is the member and there is no way to effect change. The administrators of the association are appointed by already established administrators. No one is elected, no one can be voted out. It is not an unusual model for fraternal associations and it works pretty well. The part of the sailing association that is most involved with PHRF is the handicap committee. If your handicap committee is made up of active sailors who actually race and are out there and actually observe the performance of other boats you are in pretty good shape. If they are active and meet regularly, review rule changes in other regions, review ratings of boats in the fleet that are performing exceptionally well or poorly, if they discuss the performance of new and unusual boats in the fleet, if they meet to hear handicap appeals, then you have a really good handicap committee. Many are not and do not and there is not much you can do about it. Maybe the only thing you can do is out them as was done to WLIS some years ago. My handicap committee is pretty good, most are racers, they meet regularly, they select 10 or 15 boats to review each year, the hear handicap appeals, they review the rating adjustment rules regularly, they are active. They are not perfect. Most members have been on the committee for 20 years, the chief handicaper 30 years and he doesn't race anymore and owns a power boat. The newest member has been on for 5 years, the replacement for a member who died. They see their main job a protecting the fleet. Anything new or different is suspect. They already know everything there is to know about sailboat racing so don't try to tell them different. Can't abide those pesky sport boats, those large roach jibs, illegal. They make sure any innovation is quashed, twice the penalty of any benefit. And this is a good handicap committee. Still and all PHRF is the best handicap rule for 90% of the sailors. The rest of you can go play with the rule of the month.
  7. sailorman44

    Best way to get code zero luff tension?

    I have tried several methods on my boat which is a fractional rig with masthead asyms. Initially I set it up with a 2:1 halyard. Had problems getting the sail down. Seems that the halyard twisted around itself 4 or 5 times and set up hard. When tension was released the halyard did not untwist. Lots of pulling and cursing ensued. Once I went up the mast during a race to untwist it enough to get it to start down. Then I went to a single part halyard but mounted a 4 part tackle at the base of the mast. Cranked the sail up as tight as I could get it with the halyard winch mounted on the mast. Locked it, took the halyard off the winch and attached it to the upper block of the tackle with a bowline on a bite. Then led the working end to the winch and cranked hard. This setup put a lot of tension on the halyard but took time to setup. The current setup is a 3:1 at the tack, lead back to the winch on the mast. Not quite as much tension as the 4 part tackle but seems to be enough and easier and faster to setup. If you haven't ordered the code 0 yet an alternative might be a elliptical luff code zero. My understanding is that they do not require nearly as much halyard tension and still furl nicely. The question is: would it be as close winded as a cabled code zero. Elvstrom has them in their line.
  8. Broomfield in Rhode Island
  9. sailorman44

    Black Widow Bottom Paint

    I have been using Wooster Red Feather roller covers with good effect. I can roll AwlGrip without tipping and get close to spray finish. I used them with Black Widow; the first coat went on really smooth, the second coat looked good but was prickly to the touch. Light sanding with 400 took care of that. Anyone who has read Bethwaite's "High Performance Sailing" has to question the effectiveness of burnishing. A lot of work with no gain.
  10. sailorman44

    Best grippy shoes

    Almost any sneaker is good for one season. I had a pair of Harken boat shoes that I kept on the boat, never touched anything but deck. By the second season thy were a little slippery. By the third season it was like ice skating. Now I get a new pair of sneakers for the boat at the start of the season.
  11. sailorman44

    cover for dyneema

    Be a little careful here. If the cover is a little loose it will be OK to go around a winch but If you are using the cover to get a better grip on the dyneema where it goes through a rope clutch, the clutch will chew up the cover to the point it will jam in the clutch. I use dyneema halyards and found that they would slip in the clutch. When I put on covers and the covers got chewed up. I inserted a piece of 1/4" double bread core into the 1/4" dynemma to thicken it up then installed a 5/16 cover over it. This arrangement lasted thru the season. Now I inspect the cover on the halyard before using it.
  12. sailorman44

    Cost Of Finishes

    The list does not include AwlWood from the AwlGrip people. A fairly new product in the last three years. I used it last season and was very pleased with the result. At the end of the season it looked better than Epifains did at the beginning of the season. It is somewhat labor intensive as the old varnish needs to be stripped so that the primer can be applied. After that it is much like applying any varnish. The one trick is that it needs to be thinned out a bit in order to flow. Not thinning results in a bumpy finish. Price was around $65 a quart.
  13. sailorman44

    Black Widow Bottom Paint

    For the past 4 or 5 years I have been using ePaint HP. It works well in my area but is has maintenance problems (see previous threads on ePaint performance). Last season I decided to give BW a try and stripped the keel and rudder. Applied two coats of BW. First coat went on really smooth but the second coat felt prickly to the hand. Burnished with 3M brown scrub pad on a da sander. Produced a smooth, polished surface. Performance wise the BW was much better than ePaint. When the ePaint had slime after three week the BW was clean. At the end of the season when the ePaint was getting small barnacles the BW had light slime. Last fall I stripped the rest of the bottom and will put on BW this spring.
  14. sailorman44


    In one of his books Phil Bolger talked using a half spinnaker on one of his designs.He was happy with the performance.