sailorman44

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Everything posted by sailorman44

  1. sailorman44

    Best way to Measure keel foil section?

    Some builders were known to cast their keels flat instead of vertical which made the up side of the keel flatter as the metal cooled and shrank.Check both sides of the keel.
  2. sailorman44

    IRC Anarchy "Flying Headsails" in 2021

    More like 32 sec/mile with ECSA.
  3. sailorman44

    new j/day

    JimBowie Bagatelle is a KISS44. Kiss as in Keep It Simple, Stupid. She is an Eric Sponberg design from 2000, cold molded, cored plywood deck, cored fiberglass house and cockpit, carbon fiber mast.
  4. sailorman44

    new j/day

    In defense of day sailing. If I go on the club cruise there will be at least one day of no wind, at least one day of rain and probably one day of too much wind. When I go for a day sail I get to pick the weather and it it isn't good I'll pass. I sail 4 or 5 days a week, 6 if there is a week end race. If there is no wind or rain, pass. If it blowing dogs off their chains, pass, Been there, done that, don't need to prove anything any more. I am going sailing to have an enjoyable experience not fight mother nature. My boat was designed as a day sailor. I can get under way by myself in 10 minutes and put it away in 10 minutes It has a self tacking jib so sailing single handed is a breeze. The jib is roller furled and the main furls on the boom, furling the main takes 30 seconds. There is an electric winch to get the main up. Did I mention that the main is really big? So if it is a nice day and the sea breeze has filled in I'm going sailing. If a couple of friends come along that's great maybe we will fly a spinnaker. If nobody can come I will go alone, the boat was designed for it. And if it is a light air day I'll fly a code zero, it is roller furled and easy to handle single handed. My boat was designed as a day sailor but it is capable of cruising. There are comfortable accommodation for two and pipe berths for two more. There is a marine head with stand up head room. Headroom in the galley and navigation station, you can stand up to put your pants on. My boat was designed as a day sailor but I race it. It is not a serious race boat but we have taken our share of silver. It is particularly effective on a reach or down wind. 14 knots is not unusual in a good breeze. Its small non overlapping jib penalizes it upwind. It is a very stiff boat and can be raced effectively with 4 active people, now that I getting along in years I like to have a 5th. As far as weather is concerned it is racing; you take what you get. Some of the folks on this thread only see there boats if there is a race. To my mind they are not getting much value from their boats. Most of us use our boats for a lot more than racing; racing is fun but that is not all there is. In reality, we mostly day sail. Don't have time to cruise for a week or month. We do the Wednesday night race and day sail with family and friends on the weekend. If you are retired as I am there are a lot of day sailing opportunities. When I retired I was looking for a project and decided to design a boat for the way I actually sail. Mostly day sailing, an occasional cruise, and not too serious racing. L Francis designed some boats he called "Maine day boats". Quite Tune was one of them. Biggish day sailors with enough accommodations to overnight. If you were having a great sail you could keep on going, drop the hook in some convenient cove and return the next day. I like that concept.
  5. sailorman44

    new j/day

    You sound like someone who has never actually held a varnish brush. If you had you would know that the most time consuming thing about varnish is waiting for the varnish to dry, the actual varnishing takes little time in comparison. Case in point: time it actually takes to do the varnish work on my boat. My boat is a bigger day sailor than the Knockabout with a lot more bright work. Tape off all bright work - 1 - 1.5 hours Initial sanding with 240 grit - 2.5 - 3 hours My bright work is in good shape to begin with so that makes it easier. Wash down bright work and deck with soap and water, dry bright work to avoid water spots - 1 hour Next morning put on the first build coat of varnish - 1 - 1.25 hours That afternoon put on second build coat - 1 - 1.25 hours Next morning sand with 320 paper to flatten - 1.5 -2 hours Wash down with soap and water, dry bright work - 1 hour That afternoon put on final coat - 1.5 - 2 hours I am more careful here as it is the final coat. Remove masking tape - .5 hours So, 13.5 hours of actual work, 3 days of drying time when you could do something productive like take a nap or read a book or paint the bottom. Note that I am using AwlWood, if I were using regular varnish I would do a third build coat. Not too much to pay for pride of ownership.
  6. sailorman44

    Installing Sanitation Hose On A Barbed Fitting

    There is a trick I have used to shape PVC tubing. Fill the tube with hot sand and it becomes a noodle. Shape it, let it cool, and pour the sand out. In Your case I would use two pieces of poly x, a short piece to get it on the hose barb and get past the curve then a poly x connector to the long piece. When filling the short piece with sand be sure to use a metal funnel as the hot sand will melt a plastic one. The sand gets much hotter than water.
  7. sailorman44

    Is PHRF waking up from along slumber?

    Why bother? A new rule develops, gains adherents, gets established as THE rule and all is well. Until dissatisfaction for the rule builds to a critical point, a new rule develops and repeat. This has been going on as long as sailboats have been racing. 90% of sailors don't care. They just want to go out on Wednesday night and have a good time. My club gets 30 boats out on a Wednesday night. 2 or 3 will participate in regional week end races. Once in a while 1 will do a class national or NOOD race. By and large PHRF serves their needs. That is not to say that there aren't problems with PHRF. It is not the concept of rating boats based on observed performance that is the problem. It is the application of the rule. PHRF is based on regional sailing associations. Look at the by laws of your sailing association and you will find that it is a self perpetrating old boys club. They say that the sailors are the members but you are not. You are the clients. You pays your fee and you gets your rating certificate. Your club is the member and there is no way to effect change. The administrators of the association are appointed by already established administrators. No one is elected, no one can be voted out. It is not an unusual model for fraternal associations and it works pretty well. The part of the sailing association that is most involved with PHRF is the handicap committee. If your handicap committee is made up of active sailors who actually race and are out there and actually observe the performance of other boats you are in pretty good shape. If they are active and meet regularly, review rule changes in other regions, review ratings of boats in the fleet that are performing exceptionally well or poorly, if they discuss the performance of new and unusual boats in the fleet, if they meet to hear handicap appeals, then you have a really good handicap committee. Many are not and do not and there is not much you can do about it. Maybe the only thing you can do is out them as was done to WLIS some years ago. My handicap committee is pretty good, most are racers, they meet regularly, they select 10 or 15 boats to review each year, the hear handicap appeals, they review the rating adjustment rules regularly, they are active. They are not perfect. Most members have been on the committee for 20 years, the chief handicaper 30 years and he doesn't race anymore and owns a power boat. The newest member has been on for 5 years, the replacement for a member who died. They see their main job a protecting the fleet. Anything new or different is suspect. They already know everything there is to know about sailboat racing so don't try to tell them different. Can't abide those pesky sport boats, those large roach jibs, illegal. They make sure any innovation is quashed, twice the penalty of any benefit. And this is a good handicap committee. Still and all PHRF is the best handicap rule for 90% of the sailors. The rest of you can go play with the rule of the month.
  8. sailorman44

    Best way to get code zero luff tension?

    I have tried several methods on my boat which is a fractional rig with masthead asyms. Initially I set it up with a 2:1 halyard. Had problems getting the sail down. Seems that the halyard twisted around itself 4 or 5 times and set up hard. When tension was released the halyard did not untwist. Lots of pulling and cursing ensued. Once I went up the mast during a race to untwist it enough to get it to start down. Then I went to a single part halyard but mounted a 4 part tackle at the base of the mast. Cranked the sail up as tight as I could get it with the halyard winch mounted on the mast. Locked it, took the halyard off the winch and attached it to the upper block of the tackle with a bowline on a bite. Then led the working end to the winch and cranked hard. This setup put a lot of tension on the halyard but took time to setup. The current setup is a 3:1 at the tack, lead back to the winch on the mast. Not quite as much tension as the 4 part tackle but seems to be enough and easier and faster to setup. If you haven't ordered the code 0 yet an alternative might be a elliptical luff code zero. My understanding is that they do not require nearly as much halyard tension and still furl nicely. The question is: would it be as close winded as a cabled code zero. Elvstrom has them in their line.
  9. Broomfield in Rhode Island http://www.ibroomfieldandson.net/
  10. sailorman44

    Black Widow Bottom Paint

    I have been using Wooster Red Feather roller covers with good effect. I can roll AwlGrip without tipping and get close to spray finish. I used them with Black Widow; the first coat went on really smooth, the second coat looked good but was prickly to the touch. Light sanding with 400 took care of that. Anyone who has read Bethwaite's "High Performance Sailing" has to question the effectiveness of burnishing. A lot of work with no gain.
  11. sailorman44

    Best grippy shoes

    Almost any sneaker is good for one season. I had a pair of Harken boat shoes that I kept on the boat, never touched anything but deck. By the second season thy were a little slippery. By the third season it was like ice skating. Now I get a new pair of sneakers for the boat at the start of the season.
  12. sailorman44

    cover for dyneema

    Be a little careful here. If the cover is a little loose it will be OK to go around a winch but If you are using the cover to get a better grip on the dyneema where it goes through a rope clutch, the clutch will chew up the cover to the point it will jam in the clutch. I use dyneema halyards and found that they would slip in the clutch. When I put on covers and the covers got chewed up. I inserted a piece of 1/4" double bread core into the 1/4" dynemma to thicken it up then installed a 5/16 cover over it. This arrangement lasted thru the season. Now I inspect the cover on the halyard before using it.
  13. sailorman44

    Cost Of Finishes

    The list does not include AwlWood from the AwlGrip people. A fairly new product in the last three years. I used it last season and was very pleased with the result. At the end of the season it looked better than Epifains did at the beginning of the season. It is somewhat labor intensive as the old varnish needs to be stripped so that the primer can be applied. After that it is much like applying any varnish. The one trick is that it needs to be thinned out a bit in order to flow. Not thinning results in a bumpy finish. Price was around $65 a quart.
  14. sailorman44

    Black Widow Bottom Paint

    For the past 4 or 5 years I have been using ePaint HP. It works well in my area but is has maintenance problems (see previous threads on ePaint performance). Last season I decided to give BW a try and stripped the keel and rudder. Applied two coats of BW. First coat went on really smooth but the second coat felt prickly to the hand. Burnished with 3M brown scrub pad on a da sander. Produced a smooth, polished surface. Performance wise the BW was much better than ePaint. When the ePaint had slime after three week the BW was clean. At the end of the season when the ePaint was getting small barnacles the BW had light slime. Last fall I stripped the rest of the bottom and will put on BW this spring.
  15. sailorman44

    ASYMMETRIC SPINNAKERS

    In one of his books Phil Bolger talked using a half spinnaker on one of his designs.He was happy with the performance.
  16. sailorman44

    Crousing Code Zero / Code 0 ... advice

    One Sail is not easily available in the US. More than a year ago I saw a One Sail advertisement which included a video of their cableless aysms and code zero My emails to them in Australia were unanswered. Since then they have opened a loft on the east coast of the US. Within the last year there have been several threads of SA about cableless asyms and code zeros. Looking at their current website it appears that the code zero you are interested in, the FFR is a cabled sail and not IFS. Look at the luff sag in the picture and compare it to the PFR code zero which is IFS. I think the FFR is more of a speciality sail designed to be closer winded than the PFR but with less overall range. To me, I think the PFR is the better bet for a cruising application. If you decide to go with the FFR be aware of the problems associated with a two part halyard. The two parts tend to wrap around themselves as the sail is raised. When you tension the halyard they really jam together and when the halyard is released the tend to stay jammed. I have gone up the mast several times to untwist them to get the sail down. I have switched to a three part tackle in the tack line to tension the code zero luff. How is the One Sail gennaker working for you? I assume that it is an IFS sail. How well does ti furl? The video showed an asym furling on a slack halyard with a tight furl but it didn't show it from the beginning of the furl. Do you need to tighten the luff initially to get the furl started?
  17. sailorman44

    awlgrip repair kit

    Tell me about it. I painted my boat last fall. The AwlGrip supplies alone cost over $1000 wholesale. I have a good supply of sandpaper and other stuff needed for the job.
  18. sailorman44

    awlgrip repair kit

    Not so. AwlGrip can be touched up to the level of 5 feet perfect, either sprayed or rolled. How well the repair blends is dependent on the original color. Some colors fade more than others. Red is a big problem, flag blue, not so much. It takes a real pro to tint the paint to match the faded original paint. My boat is whisper gray and the only tell tell sign of a touch up is that it is a little shiner than rest of the paint. There are two tricks to rolling AwlGrip for small touch ups. The first, as DDW said, is to thin out the paint more than you think you should, thinner than for spraying, and put on multiple coats. The second is the roller. If you use a Wooster Red Feather roller cover and a light touch you will not need to tip. They are hard to find but worth the effort.
  19. sailorman44

    awlgrip repair kit

    I don't believe such a thing exists. I have never seen AwlGrip sold in quaintly less than a quart. AwlGrip is generally a professional application and the pros already have everything needed. Not much demand for touchup kits. Build your own kit. Get 545 primer, converter, and thinner, topcoat, topcoat converter, and thinner, sandpaper in various grits, and other implements of destruction. Before you go out and spend $250 to $500 on all the stuff you need to do the job, ask yourself, are you capable? Do you have any experience painting a car or boat? It is a lot more difficult than it looks and the main ingredient to success is experience. 95% of a good paint job is preparation. Take a look at how to paint a car or boat on You Tube to get an idea of what it takes to get an acceptable result. It may be cheaper to hire a pro although once you have the experience you have it forever.
  20. sailorman44

    Noob, advise welcome

    Do some research. There have been a dozen threads on painting on SA over the past few years including a current one on Fix it Anarchy. The more important question to ask is, are you capable of doing the job? Do you have the life experience? 95% of a good paint job is preparation. and if you have never done it before it is a long and tedious job. Putting the actual paint on the boat is the least of it. You have no idea how meticulous you have to be to get a good job. And that is only to get it 5 foot prefect. Here is a video of a pro painter painting a car. Not the same as a boat but the prep work is pretty much the same except fiberglass instead of metal. This is probably a $10,000 paint job and it is 6 inch perfect but unlike most paint jobs, half the work as in the actual painting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjOOTaHa8GI
  21. sailorman44

    source for small qauantities of prepreg?

    Anything you want to know you can find on youtube. These guys are the source for everything you need to do prepreg. There are other sources but I was struck by how professional they were and the quality of the finished product. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ1Q4XmItN0&t=474s
  22. sailorman44

    Newbie sailor. What's my next move?

    Every racing skipper I know is looking for crew. Every Wednesday night the talk on the dock is "got any extra crew?" Even if I have enough crew I will take on a newbe because next time, I will need crew. I like to have experienced crew but the only way to get them is to train them. It is easy to get on a boat. Wednesday night beer can races are the best place to start. Look at the web site for local clubs to determine which have racing programs. Be on the dock at least an hour before the start and ask "who needs crew" Chances are very good you will get a ride. Your first position on the boat will be "rail meat" but if you are useful and quite you will be invited back. Helping with the maintenance will be appreciated and you will gain experience that will be useful when you get your own boat. Do not buy a boat until you have several years sailing experience. You will learn 10 times more racing than you will day sailing on your own. You will also find that your interest and requirements for a boat will change as you gain experience. Remember: "The Other Guy's Boat Club" is the best club to belong to. 95% of the fun 0% of the cost.
  23. sailorman44

    Torqeedo Pod Drive

    I am interested in knowing more also. I am interested in a Saffier 27 Leisure which is equipped with a Torqeedo pod drive and I have concerns. My only experience with Torqeedo is a friend who tried one of their outboards on his GP26. It was a mile and a half from his dock to the starting area and the Torqeedo could barely make it. Not as fast as his gas outboard and not enough juice to get back. Not impressed.
  24. sailorman44

    Cable less Code Zero development

    At the end of the Sydney-Hobart race, Comanche was carrying a huge Code zero. It's foot must be 85-90 feet. From the angle of the video there was no sag in the luff of the sail. So, does it have an elliptical luff that projects to windward or an anti torsion cable with huge tension on it? Last year in SA there was an extensive thread on cable less/elliptical luff code zeros. Since then, not much. Anything happening? The January issue of Seahorse had a story(page 68) about North Sail's Helix development program. Seems there are problems getting a good furl so North has gone to top down furling with a luff cable.