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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Schnick

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About Schnick

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  • Birthday 05/30/1982

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  1. Round The County 2017

    Day 1 update?? Anyone?
  2. I have Schock 35, similar rig just a bit taller. Same hydraulic unit. Ulman tuning guide for my boat says you want to get 3000 pounds or so at max. It would be a bit less for your shorter forestay. It's hard to beat hydraulic for power and non-stretch. However the integral hydraulic units are hard to adjust on the fly while steering and eapecially hard on whichever tack the handle faces away from you. For my boat a purchase system would probably require winches to have enough grunt. For a 30 footer I would probably go with a purchase led to the main trimmer.
  3. Stainless vs Aluminum - the struggle is real...

    The threaded spar fittings in my 30 year old Catalina 36 were all put in with clear silicon sealant. Not a single one gave me trouble at removal time and I never saw any significant corrosion.
  4. Heavy #1 vs #2

    Reefed main is slow. Code 4 jib would be about the size of a 2, say 145%. Code 6 main would be bigger (roach plus foot length) by about the same amount you gave up in the headsail. End goal would be more efficient sailplan, more downwind S.A., same rating. Look for it on my boat first.
  5. Heavy #1 vs #2

    My Schock has light 1 / heavy 1 / 3 / 5 jibs. My older heavy 1 is a full 153%. Newer heavy one is smaller, I'd say 10" shorter on foot. Exactly as you'd expect, the boat is lightning fast in the smaller sail when you are uprange. But, the overlap in ranges shrinks as you shrink the sail area - really this means the cost of picking wrong dail becomes unacceptably high... If I was starting from scratch I would get an AP#1 and probably a 2ish sized sail, rather than light and heavy #1 sails. The reason being, the Schock is a weapon upwind in light air anyways and I could afford to sacrifice a bit of light air oomph for a Genoa with a wider range and fewer sail changes. The 2 would help us find a low/fast mode that we are missing because you'd be able to drop traveller without the main backwinding immediately. But any discussion of sail design on this boat can not be complete without tossing in the option of a code 4 jib and code 6 main combination. Mmm mmm.
  6. Mastervolt makes a nice 100A charger that will also have two secondary lower current outputs to top up the start batteries. I think the last one I installed was feeding sixteen L16 6-volts. Also there is no reason you can't hook up multiple chargers to the same bank. Two of those 20 or 25A units would be better than one.
  7. Cruising with 2 families: space for 9?

    We used to do this with 4 kids and two adult couples for a total of 8 when I was a kid. We had an older Choate 40 race boat with an upgraded galley and V berth. So 4 pipe berths aft race boat/ bunk bed style, one pipe pilot berth, v berth and a fold-down dinette double. No problem and we would do 3 week cruises from the time I was 10 until my late teens.
  8. Is D.C.'s Schock 35 class legal?

    Just go find a decent one (any former top 3 boat in Lipton Cup or Nationals-Outlier, Mischief, Bold Forbes, Wings, Shilleleigh) and make sure the bottom is still ok and the core isn't trashed. Then take off any rigging that doesnt make the boat go faster or turn around the mark better. Then take all the shit out of the draweers, chart table, etc, everything that isn't glassed in and lay it all on the dock. Then put things back on the boat ONLY if the class rules require it, or it makes the boat go faster, and put eveything else in the garage where it belongs. Then make sure the mast is in the right place, and get new sails. The just go sailing a lot, with the same people. Then go beat DC. Think how stoked you'll be They were a blast 25 years ago no reason they can't be a blast now. Not bad PHRF/Catalina weekend boats too The old Mischief is now called Excalibur. The boat is definitely quick, always felt quicker than the Mako boat that came up here for a while.
  9. 3DL sail delam

    Yes hopelessly fucked.
  10. Backstay adjuster- Proper use of.

    Ajax, Pic of my dad's boat attached. This is a deep frac, non-tapered rig, swept spreaders, displacement boat. I think it's similar in dimensions to yours. The backstay on this boat does about 0.05% more than nothing. In light air you want the backstay off, so that the main tacks through easily. The swept spreaders and upper shrouds control forestay tension. As the breeze builds to mid range, you tighten the leech of the main with sheet (6:1 + fine) which pulls the entire mast aft, and subtly increases the forestay tension. You can tell this is happening because even as the leeward shrouds go loose, you still maintain forestay tension. You could pull some backstay on, but what would happen is the mast would bend dramatically in the unsupported part above the hounds, and you could not tell by looking at the sail that the forestay had changed at all. As the boat becomes overpowered, you drop traveller and continue to pile on mainsheet. The unsupported top section of the mast falls off dramatically to leeward (and aft, but you'd be surprised how much it goes sideways). This inherently depowers the top half of the mainsail. You can pull on backstay and make this happen even more, but literally by the time the boat is overpowered that whole top 1/3 of the sail is board flat or inside out. The shape of the lower half of the main is driven by how much sheet you have and how much D1 tension you are carrying, and maybe how much vang is on, although in this case the vang is not that powerful.. Again forestay tension comes from the combination of upper shroud tension and mainsheet. More backstay at this point just washes out the top of the sail more and really has just a little bit more than no effect on forestay. When you do pull the backstay on at the top end the eventual result is something like an overbend wrinkle in the main as you eventually exceed the luff curve of the sail (this boat uses a J/105 main, no changes to the luff curve). If I wanted to cane this thing upwind in a breeze with a nice tight forestay I would simply put runners on it. Since that is rarely plan A for coastal cruising sailors in the PNW, he opts for simplicity. Failing that, the other thing that could help quite a lot would be jumper stays, to limit the lateral and 'normal' mast bend under backstay loads, which would then translate some of the bending moment into forestay tension.
  11. Round the County

    Just show up at blakEly. There has been space the last two years at least. The other racers have a great bbq/party Friday night in the hut at the top of the ramp. Usually 6-10 boats there I would guess.
  12. Santana 35 - Schock 35 keel

    Complete molded section - cut on dotted line, drop in, tape and fair. Don't forget the front half of the hull is completely different though - I don't think there are really any gains to be made adding 'stuff' to a Santana.
  13. Santana 35 - Schock 35 keel

    I called last year and they would still sell you the open transom kit for a surprisingly low price. However I also had a good look at that kit on Mako and I am certain that it weighs more than the original assembly. Not a great place for heavy stuff.
  14. Santana 35 - Schock 35 keel

    On Facebook look up 'Team Texana' they have some pics of the Schock keel grid from when they did a mast step rebuild.
  15. Santana 35 - Schock 35 keel

    Hey Snap - Surprisingly I don't remember what the Santana assembly looked like. I can tell you that there is one solitary keel bolt in front of the mast step in the Schock 35. I feel like the root chord on the schock is longer than the Santana, having spent some time sanding both of those keels, but if I was guessing I would say the leading edge is in the same place.