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17 Whiner

About WHK

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    Super Anarchist
  • Birthday 09/25/1953

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    Newport, RI
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  1. WHK

    Fuel polishing in Van Isle

    If you are polishing to clean up bad fuel, I think it is a waste of money. I did that once and spent way more on polishing then if I had drained the tank, flushed it with kerosene and refilled. If diesel, the old fuel will work in a furnace as home heating oil you can use in an oil burner. Pump the tank dry, flush with a little kerosene, then refill the tank! Much cheaper.
  2. Wind tunnel testing? Absolutely out of the question..... I will have the ability to do two boat testing with another J/109 and have done so when testing new sails. The issue is how to get a good reference as you note.
  3. Moonduster - empirically is the only way I can do this without any formal test setup or another calibrated system for A-B comparison. Observation of wind strip charts and performance of the autopilot due to wave motion are two things that come to mind. I have to believe that the B&G algorithms are good and if good data is input to the processor, the wind strip charts would be more stable due to motion than the uncompensated data. Similarly the performance of the pilot can be assessed under various conditions. I know it isn't a perfect test environment but my goal is to improve the overall system performance so I may rely on it.
  4. Moogle - There will be a Zeus 3 at the helm which is able to control the autopilot. I put the H5000 pilot control on the spray hood so I can control the helm while under the dodger for deliveries, and when sailing short handed to control the helm from the cockpit for tacks and gybes.
  5. An update now that the boat is hauled. I have been working with the local B&G dealer who installs H5000 stuff and have ordered the bits I don't already have from them. Based on discussions with them and the B&G tech folks, I'm going to leave the Garmin Nexus gWind Race and Garmin GND10 to provide uncorrected wind bearing and speed to the H5000 Hercules via the N2K bus. The data rate and lag should be sufficient for the H5000 to do performance processing. If it turns out this doesn't work out, I'll install a B&G analog MHU later to replace the gWind. Here is what I'm in the middle of installing / upgrading: Sensors: Existing Airmar analog paddle wheel on centerline, existing Precision 9 Compass, Depth/Temp Airmar N2K version DT800 (new), Wind - Garmin Nexus gWind / GND10 for N2K output Mast Displays: Three Triton 2 displays mounted in Scanpod enclosure (new - replace Nexus XL displays) Spray Hood: Two Triton 2, H5000 Graphic, H5000 Pilot Controller (new except an existing Triton 2 I have - replace 2 Nexus Multicontrol, Nexus Wind display, & T41 Triton) Helm: Zeus 3 - 12" in Navpod enclosure (new - replaces Raymarine e125), existing Standard Horizon CMP31 remote mic for radio Autopilot: H5000 Pilot with RF300 rudder sensor (new - replaces Raymarine S1G with wireless remote and Raymarine rudder sensor). Using existing Raymarine linear drive Navstation: H5000 Hercules Processor (new replaces Nexus FDX server). The following existing equipment remains - Raymarine e97 MFD with SR50 Satellite receiver (all on N2K network) with Raymarine HD418 radar mounted on removable pole that is inserted near stern. Standard Horizon GX2150 Matrix VHF radio with AIS receiver connected via Actisense NGW-1 converter to N2K bus , Fusion RN70 Stereo (N2K), Actisense NGT-1 and NGW-1 converteres from N2K to USB on docking station. Microsoft Surface Pro 4 with docking station (existing) - All Ethernet stuff (except the Radar and Raymarine e97) is connected to existing Linksys Router that offers DHCP server and both wired or wireless connectivity. Internet connectivity is via hotspot on cell phone to router and normally only used for email, downloading software updates and downloading gribs. If I wanted to in the future, external connectivity could easily be upgraded. The B&G stuff I'm installing is a combination of equipment that came off another boat that was decommissioned (Hercules Processor, H5000 Graphic, H5000 Pilot Computer & Controller) and stuff I'm buying new (Zeus 3, four Triton 2 Displays). I've taken off the old Nexus displays and have run the N2K bus cable to anywhere it wasn't already run. The spray hood has been fit with a piece of Starboard to cover the old instrument holes and new holes cut for the new displays. I'm waiting for the new B&G equipment that I ordered last week. I should get everything installed and cabled over the next couple of weeks. I'll start setting up the sources and default displays with the boat on the hard. I can also format and upload my existing polars to the H5000 Hercules. It won't be until I splash in the spring that sea trials and calibration can happen, but all basic connectivity and display checks can be done. I'm running OpenCPN on the PC and depending how my budget is doing, may buy Expedition later this winter. Things to be evaluated after the system is used for the 1st season: How good is the WInd and corrections using the Garmin gWind? Are the sensors in the Precision 9 Compass for roll and pitch good enough for wind correction and autopilot performance, or is a seperate B&G motion sensor needed? With the Zeus 3 and H5000 pilot control on the spray hood, is the B&G wireless remote needed? Some cruising time and short handed races will determine if this is a later upgrade. Here is a photo of the spray hood with the Starboard masked so the new holes can be cut. The old Starboard bezel is in the background:
  6. Very timely post. I met with the local dealer today and just pulled the trigger to buy the remaining items through him. We reviewed my network diagram and assumptions on wind data throughput from the GND10. It turns out B&G has a newer wind sensor (WS10) that has a 5 hz update rate over N2K, so the 11 hz rate from the GND10 should be good. I will take some N2K bus measurements when I get it installed on the hard with the H5000 Hercules. The dealer is passing my info on to the B&G tech folks so I can provide my results to them. Proof of the install can't really occur until I splash in the spring and start calibration. Best case is it all works fine. Moderate case is it's as good as an unprocessed wind sensor (e.g. like basic Triton package). If it doesn't work out, in the long term I can replace the wind sensor with B&G analog MHU at a later date.
  7. WHK

    J/35 Rig tuning question

    If you have the open style turnbuckles, best to get a micrometer and measure the distance between the turnbuckle screw ends once the rig is at base. I made small labels using a label maker and stick them on ech turnbuckle with its base measurement (e.g. 1.89"). That way whenever I want to adjust the rig, I can always go back to base and check it. On my turnbuckles each full turn is 0.1 inch length adjustment. You don't know how many times I thought I went 3 turns and only did 2.5 or went CCW instead of CW. I bought a digital micrometer on Amazon for less than $15 that works well. Some tips for setting the rig. 1. If you have a laser level available when the boat is on the hard, use it to check the mast in column with the tip of the keel. This needs to be done after dark and is more visible if you wear red goggles. If you don't have a laser level, you can use a step ladder about 3-6 boat lengths from the stern and tension a string. Set the string so when you sight behind it to the boat the keel, transom centerline, gooseneck and mast tip are in column. 2. An alternative is to use the water bucket trick to check the mast centered. Fill a bucket with water and hang it from the main halyard. Swing it over to one side just aft of the shroud with the bucket hanging lower than the deck line. Mark the halyard with tape where it crosses the deck line. Swing it to the opposite side. If everything is square, the halyard mark should cross in the same place both sides. Note that some boats are NOT square (e.g. the keel is not mounted exactly perpendicular with the deck). If you do this after checking with the laser, record the position on port and stbd side so you can always recent the rig when it is pulled. My previous J/30 was off by about 1" on the halyard marks. My J/109 is exactly square. Use the cap shrouds to center the top of the rig with the other shrouds loose 3. Once the rig is centered, tension cap shrouds evenly to get a Loos gauge reading about half the desired final setting. Start tensioning lower lower shrouds to take out slack to the same setting as the cap. 4. Take a picture from the companionway looking up the mast so you capture the tip to as low on the mast as you can see. The mast track should be visible. Put the picture into a drawing program (I use PowerPoint) and draw a straight line from the lowest point in the center of the mast to the tip at the center. Blow up the picture and see where the line and the center mast slot deviate. You can compensate for misalignment by adjusting the appropriate turnbuckles as needed to reduce the misalignment. You'll need to take multiple pictures after each adjustment to check the rig in column. 5. Tension shrouds equally on both sides to move up toward your base rig tension. Dont try and go all the way up at once since there will be interaction particularly with swept back spreaders. Once you are at base settings on the Loos, do the mast in column check again and tweak turnbuckles as needed. 6. Measure the turnbuckle screws and record the measurements. This will be a repeatable base setting you may always return to and it can be verified using the micrometer. This doesn't say what the base settings should be but how to get to a setting that is repeatable. Use a tuning guide or work with your sailmaker to find the best base setting. When you find something you're happy with, record it!
  8. WHK

    J/35 Rig tuning question

    This is from a 2004 Doyle tuning guide for the J/109 that is posted on the J/109 class website tips & tuning page. The settings are probably different for the J/35 but the concept of taking turns off for lighter breeze and putting turns on with more breeze could be used.
  9. WHK

    New wireless wind transducer from B&G

    ryley - I should have called you about the experience, since I replaced my gWind race earlier this season, and now am planning a changeover the a complete B&G system with H5000 Hercules replacing the NX2 server. Is your gWind / GND10 combo driving a Hercules processor, or are you just grabbing the wind data off the N2K bus and displaying directly?
  10. The key is to leave the hatches cracked under the boat cover so the air flows through the boat. That way the condensation doesn't form on the interior surfaces. When the sun is out it is actually like a greenhouse and gets pretty warm under the cover. I also am at my boat frequently throughout the winter doing projects. While I'm on the boat I plug in a portable oil filled radiator in the cabin that takes the chill off while working. My previous boat did not have a cover and life was not as simple, both from the mold / mildew and freeze/thaw cycles on the deck.
  11. WHK

    New wireless wind transducer from B&G

    Good to learn that the N2K wind source at a high enough data rate is working with the H5000. I'll be replacing a Nexus server with an H5000 Hercules. The Garmin Nexus Wind sensor through the Garmin GND10 spits out the PGN for wind at about an 11Hz rate. I'm going to see how this works before spending the $ for a B&G analog MHU.
  12. Here in New England most of us haul and winterize everything. Cushions and sails off so no mildew. There are times when it wont go above freezing for 30 days. Best to have a boat cover or shrink wrap to prevent damage from the multiple freeze and thaw cycles that play havoc with deck hardware. We start frostbite sailing in dinghies on New Years day, then every Sunday. We have the 20/20 rule - colder than 20 degrees or more than 20 kts we don't go out. Occasionally the water is "too hard" to launch the boats. Frozen salt water by the dock. By April we're ready to sail Keel boats again!
  13. WHK

    Need Help

    Chesapeake can get small with the 7 foot draft of a standard J/109. I bought mine from the previous owner who had it in the Chesapeake and now keep it on Narragansett Bay. There are a few shoal draft J/109s out there, and if you won't be doing OD racing, this one has a shoal draft and carbon rig. It seems to meet all the parameters in the original post. If you are doing distance racing and any weekend cruising, the amenities on a J/109 are significantly better than a J/105 and you can stand up below decks.
  14. WHK

    Powder coat or paint wheel

    Good to know. I haven't had any issues in 2 years but can do a light sand and spray clearcoat to prevent UV degradation.
  15. WHK

    Powder coat or paint wheel

    I have the same wheel that you have - you have hull 260 and mine 266 so about the same age. The powdercoat on the center hub and spoke near the center was blistered and flaking, and the leather on the outer part was starting to fail. I ended up stripping off the leather and used acetone and green pad to remove any residual adhesive. Once that was done I used a Fein tool with 150 grit paper and sanded the blistered areas to bare aluminum. The wheel was cleaned and then spot primed by spraying a chromate primer made for aluminum outdrives. When that cured I used white epoxy appliance paint and sprayed the entire wheel with multiple thin coats and let it cure. For the leather, get the Edson Comfort grip 733CG-42-60-GR. I setup a dowel in a vice to hold the wheel, making it easier to spin while installing the grip. The secret for getting the leather to stretch while sewing is to keep it wet so it stretches easier. Below is a photo of work in progress when I replaced the leather.