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Everything posted by steele

  1. steele

    Keelboat with short or high boom

    A Dana 24 may allow standing under the boom, a true cruising boat capable of multi day trips. It even has standing headroom inside, but is expensive and slowish,
  2. steele

    Sad, waterlogged Holder 12 monohull

    Boston Whalers are filled with foam and there is lots of info on the web about drying and repair, might be worth a look. In the end it might be so much work and materials finding a new hull (or whole boat) would be an option. A laser 2, taser, vanguard 15 would all be decent planing double handers.
  3. steele

    Varnish peeling off in patches.

    The way you describe the situation I wonder if it is epoxy under varnish, the epoxy will tend to peal in big thick sheets compared to varnish. If so it will be more more work, but it still all has to go and the methods are the same. Not all scrapers are equal, shop at a woodworking or marine store. The ones sold at a big box hardware place will make a mess of things. Sharpen and clean the edges often, a file works but I have had better luck with wet/dry sandpaper on a hard surface like a pane of glass or ceramic cutting board. I have the least expensive heat gun I could find since they tend to be weaker and I am not very patient. It keeps me from scorching the wood.
  4. steele

    Coolboats to admire

    Not only mis-matched, but they are going to abrade the finish on the tow rail to bare wood in days. I suspect this is on purpose to keep the local varnish minions employed and off the streets.
  5. steele

    Pilothouse For Puget Sound, $40K Or Less

    oops missed that part.
  6. steele

    Pilothouse For Puget Sound, $40K Or Less

    You probably have seen this one, a bit of an orphan with a full keel, but the price is close.
  7. steele

    Instrument overhall suggestions

    To get the autopilot to work with any newer stuff, including Raymarines, you will need a Seatalk converter. If you want the autopilot to steer to GPS route and to wind you will need a networked system. Most of use a chartplotter and most chartplotters have wifi to allow use of your tablet. You might be able to build a system with a wifi/network bridge and no chartlplotter, but I am not smart enough to figure that out. All of this adds up pretty fast. To save some money you can get package deals for instruments and look for a older generation stuff, the Raymaine a and e series plotters work fine and I have seen some good deals recently. One benefit of all this is the ability to AIS, a meaningful safety feature.
  8. Since stantions leak into cored decks more than other hardware I suspect a solid system of tubes would move less and therefore leak less. It would hurt more falling on it, but be less likely to break if you did. I might rather have a broken rib than end up overboard.
  9. steele

    Pilothouse For Puget Sound, $40K Or Less

    Assuming a Baba 40 is still over budget the standard sloop idea is workable. I have a good dodger and in most conditions can duck up forward out of the weather. An autopilot with a remote helps, I am looking at this for mine Another thing to consider in our area is reliable heat, the Webasto or similar forced air heaters work well. I have one in my boat and have considered adding a vent in the cockpit forward at foot level. I suspect that since the pool of used standard sailboats is so much greater than pilothouse boats you can get a much less expensive boat, add the heat dodger and autopilot and still come out ahead. A nice bridge deck to sit on would be icing on the cake.
  10. Your T30 has the aft galley, it should have an access hatch to the icebox in the starboard cockpit bench. I suspect that the wall you mention is part of the support for the icebox which when full of ice and food could be heavy. In the other T30 layout the galley takes up the starboard salon and there is a second quarterberth on the starboard side. In that configuration the aft area you photographed is completely open with out a wall or bulkhead. All told I doubt that small wall is needed for hull or deck support.
  11. steele

    Hard vs soft dinghy

    I built a CLC wood duck for use as a tender. It is lighter than sit on tops, pretty stable, and with it's big cockpit and low center of gravity not too hard to board from the mother ship. I like that it is more protected to use than a sit on top and with a spray skirt keeps me dry. I put a towing eye low on the bow and have dragged it along in pretty choppy conditions with no problems. I could not find a decent photo of it completed, here it is standing on end while a plug of thickened epoxy dries in the bow to reinforce it for towing.
  12. steele

    Stemhead chainplate recommendations

    +2. I needed a new bow fitting for an anchor roller and stopped by a neighborhood place that does railings, range hoods and such. It turns out the owner used to crew on racing boats and new what was required. The local marine fab places wouldn't return my calls.
  13. steele

    S&S 36... thoughts

    Do you mean the S&S 34? I am not sure there was a 36 with the S&S designation, but they designed so many boats it is hard to be sure. If it is the 34 they are good boats, like the similar Yankees and Tartans of the same era. Others with more experience will comment, but the economics of designing and installing a new keel on a 40 year old boat is questionable. Starting with a more modern design makes more sense.
  14. steele

    "I'd rather sail than varnish!", who says that?

    In our area we can sail year round, boat sheds are rare and most boats sit in the water full time. The mild climate int the PNW is easy on varnish, but the wet weather makes working on it a challenge. Since I have a full time job any day off with weather good enough to varnish was a day good to sail. My last FRP boat had wood trim including toe rails, a total of 60 linear feet of fussy work that took many hours. My new boat has no exterior wood and I do not miss it all.
  15. steele

    where'd ya go?

    I agree with most of this, but in my area there seems to be move back to outdoor activities. Running and biking are up, and the number of people hiking and using campgrounds has exploded. It is busy enough you have to book campground spots months ahead and trailheads are so packed the local municipalities are running shuttles. This might translate to sailing over time, but as already pointed out the time and financial commitment will always exceed most other outdoor activities.
  16. steele

    Handheld GPS for backup

    I agree it is a bit clunky, and way to expensive for what it is. I do like that it will go for hours on a single charge and the built in battery can be swapped for AAs. It has also been very wet and dropped a few times and keeps on working. If a second fixed unit is a consideration take a look at the newer Garmins. They have quick release mounts and in the 7 inch size are about the same cost of some of the handhelds. As always with Garmin the issue is the charts, they seem confusing and overpriced.
  17. steele

    Handheld GPS for backup

    I have this It is more of a mini chartplotter than a handheld, big enough screen for regular use since my fixed unit is down below, will run on AA batts.
  18. An Olson 30 would be a budget choice, perhaps too light for family sailing depending on local conditions.
  19. steele

    J/109 Chartplotter Advice

    Yea, the garmin is on a plastic cradle that will pop loose if hit and it is tethered to the boat. Not a perfect system.
  20. steele

    J/109 Chartplotter Advice

    I have been trying to figure this out too. The only reasonable option is above the compass. I have not mounted anything there yet beyond my 4" garmin handheld since I am worried the main sheet would eventually rip it all off. Any input from Blur and 11233 on this? I have an ray e7 at the nav station and it works fine including wifi to my i-stuff. The tablets and phone are just ok, easy to drop, short battery life, hard to see in the sun etc. I end up using the dedicated handheld gps most of the time.
  21. steele

    Best access hatch for horizontal mounting?

    You might have better luck looking at the commercial market. I was looking for a specific fit for my last boat and ran into these, It is a good thing you are not into saving money.
  22. steele

    Help me choose: Sun fast 3200 or J109

    I agree the aft cockpit traveler and tiller on the 3200 would be hard to beat for singlehanding, my last boat had that set up. The best place to steer the 109 is stiing on the side deck. This allows great sightlines forward and is within reach of both main and jib sheets. With more crew aboard moving behind the wheel works fine.
  23. steele

    Help me choose: Sun fast 3200 or J109

    When I was looking the choice was the 109 vs the older first series. We cruise more than race so the interior was important. All the Benes I looked at in that range had marginal seating and berths, not quite long enough to stretch out or big enough to sit comfortably. I have not been inside a 3200, but make sure you and the family try it out. The asym and extendable bowsprit are a plus for shorthanding the 109, the tiller on the 3200 is a plus. Either are fun to sail.
  24. As long as I am not really helping with your original question I though I would add more advice. Dad's old T Bird had a pop top that was great at the dock or anchor. It was supported brass rods and thumb screws. If you don't have one it is a nice addition.
  25. As a kid my family of 4 cruised on dad's T-Bird. I don't remember much which is probably for the best. You might consider adding a few more layers of paint, some trim around the ports, and acorn bolts or covers for the hardware. This plus adding the needed cushions for overnighting may be enough to make it look and feel good without more wood or a headliner. For interior lighting check out all the cool led lanterns sold in camping stores. We use them on our boat even though it also has wired lights, they last for many nights of use on AA batts.