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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About alifish

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  1. So what is the range of measurement for the mast butt position on a masthead (I'd assume the rear of the plug the mast fits onto) to the interior of the stern (I'd also assume right at the bottom of the interior of the transom)?
  2. You guys were talking about moving the mast butt forward, and said all the bulkheads are in different places??? Is there a measurement to the mast from like interior of the forestay Bulkheads in different places?? Interesting, that would also make the chain plates in different places as well.
  3. MHOB is the only way to go, although in the PNW we have to race with them on Safety you know And it's 6 sec here too for rating credit.
  4. Those guys are wizards, bought some replacement stanchions for my deck mounted J/29 rigs
  5. 1983 J/29, Hand Laid, 3/4" balsa core. Yeah 33 years old! Was inside the boat and noticed a crack on underside of foredeck, bout 3-4" to the side of forward hatch 5-7" long fore/aft. Opened it up from underneath maybe the entire length and bout 3" wide just to see what was in in there and core was black, coming out in chunk & crumbles. The foredeck hatch has spider cracks in forward corners radiating outward to maybe 2-3", stopping at nonskid pattern. When tap sounding with what I had at boat (at that time) it seemed there was different tones maybe 5-7' in all directions of the crack previously mentioned along side the hatch, and looking around I see softness at hardware attachments - fair leads outboard of forward edge of hatch, which are about 2-3" from forward edge of initial crack found. I've had repairs at every stanchion base, but I don't know exactly what was done to repair them. Next is taking all the stanchion bases, hatch, bow pulpit, forward dock cleat in the middle of foredeck area off. Obviously still looking for issues, know there will be more:)
  6. The fiberlay company does have balsa core and they aren't asking a lot for it. If you saw the balsa that's coming out of this deck area you wouldn't use it again. If I do balsa again I'll go with a couple layers of 3/8". There is some Kevlar honeycomb at these guys place: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201180773899?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT There are stress cracks around the deck hatch and water has gotten into the balsa, when I started taking some of the hardware off it didn't seem to be very well sealed to keep out any moisture.
  7. Got it, nothing structural in my project...YET! Thanks for the advice on dull finishes, I'll try some both ways. I'm going to give vacuum bagging a try, have a few other projects down the line. Want a wood look with the wood totally enclosed in glass/resin so I'll wrap it around
  8. A friend used to have a Laurie Davidson 1/4 tonner, they had a motor on a sliding T track system. Tracks went to the end of the cockpit the motor just hung over the back. Worked perfectly EXCEPT when in reverse which the motor didn't have so no biggie. Once they switched to a new slip..which was back in. They centered the boat in front of the slip, spun the motor around for reverse everything was fine until the guy on motor duty revved up the small outboard. It slid right off the tracks and into the water, with the guy holding on to it. His hat was still floating in the exact spot it went under
  9. Was inside my 1983 J/29 and almost every corner of the under bunk areas (straight 3/8" plywood) has a little rot in every outboard corner, which in turn has rotted out the bottom of the vernier on the aft of the bulkhead The vertical walls holding the berth upright had 5/16 plywood with a vernier over it and was rotten in the lower corners, looks like the vernier sucked the water that might have on the floor and left it in the ply?? The Vernier was the only thing holding the ply in place it's all out! http://www.fiberlay.com/prod-core-materials.php?cat=Thermoplastic%20Core&subclass=406025-4066150&startrow=0 now just where to find 1/8" door skins (ala Dennis Choate) that aren't already on a door. There's a cabinet shop next door to my wife's business..hopefully, then give a shot at some vacuum bagging the panels together with a glass wrap around the edges and over the facing vernier...water will never get into there again! Anybody know how to make any resin I put over the exterior facing to be dull, rather than shinny? Shinny is OK but it would just get scuffed from feet or sail bags hitting it. I'll take look at my West Systems book...could always give it a light sanding with maybe 400?
  10. Anyone ever used this product for replacement in specifically a J Boat deck core? http://www.fiberlay.com/prod-core-materials.php?cat=Thermoplastic%20Core&subclass=406025-4066150&startrow=0
  11. "Vertical distance down from the hull, where it intersects the trailing edge of the keel" So I'd take that to mean from the bottom of the hull (where??), at a angel from bottom of the hull to the trailing edge..guess that means if the trailing edge is the correct position. How do ya know where that's supposed to be?? I'm going to bet when I did this in 1984/5 I wasn't asking the same questions:)
  12. When my 1983 J/29 was new to me I had some keel templates (which I just found in my attic) made and did a extremely nice job on fairing the keel. This coming winter I've got to do a re-fair on the keel and need to know where the stations are measured from the bottom of the hull or where? The root one is obviously the base, and would be the very top, is it after the radius of the hull to the keel. There's locations Root or 1-4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, and 6. Don't really remember how I held the fringing templates up to the keel (they are made out of 1/8" plastic of some sort??) And are super flexible so I will make up some sort of device with 2x4s and a aluminum strip on the template to hold them in place . Asking J/Boats would come up with nothing as they don't support anything on the J/29, and I can't find anything on the J/29 class site.
  13. The next AM at 7:30 it's around 50 degrees, water streaks were a different color, slightly lighter and they appeared to raised or thicker than the surrounding areas. Seemed to have hardened and sanding OK with 40 to get past the initial gloss and with 80 to fair. Not entirely sure what is going to be happening long term. I'm going to venture a guess and say the mix absorbed the water slightly and it's suspended in the filler/epoxy, probably going to have to have a couple days of hotter temps to dry it out, will see! In regards to gloves and ventilation..I always use a full face respirator mask, bunny (latex) suit, sock head mask with leather gloves when sanding and Nitrite gloves, bunny suit, usually the mask and when mixing any epoxy and applying overhead.
  14. The streaks of water as the water ran down the underside are a whiter discolored streak when it was raining, on my way out to the project now I'll see if it hardened or not.Being as it will sanded anyway and all be over coated with multiple layers of 433 barrier I'm not to terribly concerned. How critical is the project, well as all things such as the previous topic of how smooth is smooth, I want it to be as smooth as possible and I don't want to do it again next year:)