alifish

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About alifish

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  1. alifish

    J/29 Cascading Backstay

    Isn't purchase, purchase didn't think it was dependent on which end ya start at? But I will bow to your apparent knowledge. Guess I'll just get a piece that's as long as the stock BS and tie it off to double check where every thing ends up, and then put my splices in : ) No on the dynema, didn't think would be an issue??
  2. alifish

    J/29 Cascading Backstay

    Got how it works, I too am going to go with a bridle off Starboard side over a big block, and down to a smaller dead-ended block that doubles it. then down to double to align it through some deck holes, then it will go to the 6:1 on each side under the deck. So it starts with the 6:1 under the deck, comes up through the deck and will go to a 4:1 under the bridle, which would make it 24:1, then up to the intermediate block which would again double it - - to 48:1 and double again at the big block that is directly under the bridle top ending up at aprox 96:1. Like your thoughts on a major gross adjustment independent of the fine, guess it could on the dead end of the intermediate block under the bridle. I don't really want to drag in like 20' of line prior to fine adjustments BUT again I ask how much did you shorten the Dyneema backstay from the original length of wire rope termination prior to the split on the wire yoke. Does the length make any difference, like if it's higher or lower to the ratios?
  3. alifish

    J/29 Cascading Backstay

    One Design, ya sure! There never has been any one design racing in J/29s in the PNW, always been a mix of frac and MH. Then some of the fracs had 150% some had 163%, Mixes that with combinations of double and triple oversize chutes. When I got my MH it had 218% spins, in Seattle there was Slick with a 8" taller mast. My MH has all stock measurements. The only Seattle J/29 that beat me consistently was Dynamo Hum, I always felt good about beating them, and we partied hard together! NO HYDRAULICS, want to be able to play the backstay in puffs along with sheet tension and traveler. Will be about the same as 72:1 system, Going to continue to use the under deck 6:1 on each side, with some of the same stuff like Husler. One big block up top, cascading down to another. which cascades down to a double or triple under it and down through the deck which will lead to the each side 6:1 under the deck on each side. With the double it should be about 72, with a triple it would be more. However the purchase amount wasn't my question, How much did you shorten the backstay itself to top block attachment? To accommodate for forestay on or off!
  4. alifish

    J/29 Cascading Backstay

    So I've always run all my purchase internal for my backstay (6:1 under the deck, coming out up and over a turning block under the original split backstay. Back down through deck and to another 6:1 on other side) , want to change to cascading. When I was younger it wasn't so hard to use, but at 66 I don't have the muscle to play it like I used to. When boat owners post pictures of a MH with a cascading system it appears they have shortened the wire from the top of mast to the initial purchase. I'd be going with a synethic backstay and doing the same thing as shown in the class tips on the website.
  5. alifish

    Outboard Bracket for J/29

    Love the Garlick mounts!
  6. alifish

    Eds SC-33 Anarchy 3

    " he mast is indeed very basic. nice, but basic. given that these things rate 96-126 around the country, and that the best one anywhere is in seattle and is, from reliable accounts, no faster than a well sailed j 29 masthead, and that we were no faster than a santana 30/30 gp or a j-27, i'd say the rating isn't close. we'll know more after a couple of bay buoy races this weekend. it's not a bitch, it's simply getting the numbers right. as of now, they don't appear to be. " I used to sail in Seattle against a SC33 in my MHOB J/29, I kicked their ass in every condition. Can't remember the name of the boat but it was golden-yellow!
  7. alifish

    Hull Flex on Trailer

    So what reasoning makes any of think any other Mac hull is any better?
  8. alifish

    strict class

    are you kidding me five races on a one design jib and the leech hooked inboard...like 5". The local north rep said it was designed in, when I said it wasn't that way when we first used it, then the comment changed to designed to have the 5" hook eventually...yeah sure! Those guys are so full of shit!
  9. alifish

    Pole back! From the FP...

    All the 4KSB are cool, so are the glitzzy rides.
  10. alifish

    UV degradation to West

    Probably the best answer I could expect, or get
  11. alifish

    UV degradation to West

    Which book do you prefer? I'd think the possible cause of the blisters was the boat sitting in relatively warm Pacific Northwest river water for over 28 years! the blisters were only through to the top of the 1st layer of glass, they barely got through the Gelcoat. By "going hard and fast to finish" I assume you mean finishing the bottom job, complete through fairing??. No distractions....I assume you have held a 8" mud hog over your head for hours on end, my only distraction has been the ability to hold one of these monsters for more than an hour at a time?
  12. alifish

    UV degradation to West

    So I've been fairing or re-fairing a boat after a blister job! How long can a boat sit with just fairing in West system epoxy? It's out in direct sunlight, what are the symptoms of problems? This round has taken a whole lot longer than I thought it would, story of my life!
  13. alifish

    Canacore

    1983 J/29, Hand Laid, 3/4" balsa core. Yeah 33 years old! Was inside the boat and noticed a crack on underside of foredeck, bout 3-4" to the side of forward hatch 5-7" long fore/aft. Opened it up from underneath maybe the entire length and bout 3" wide just to see what was in in there and core was black, coming out in chunk & crumbles. The foredeck hatch has spider cracks in forward corners radiating outward to maybe 2-3", stopping at nonskid pattern. When tap sounding with what I had at boat (at that time) it seemed there was different tones maybe 5-7' in all directions of the crack previously mentioned along side the hatch, and looking around I see softness at hardware attachments - fair leads outboard of forward edge of hatch, which are about 2-3" from forward edge of initial crack found. I've had repairs at every stanchion base, but I don't know exactly what was done to repair them. Next is taking all the stanchion bases, hatch, bow pulpit, forward dock cleat in the middle of foredeck area off. Obviously still looking for issues, know there will be more:)
  14. alifish

    Canacore

    The fiberlay company does have balsa core and they aren't asking a lot for it. If you saw the balsa that's coming out of this deck area you wouldn't use it again. If I do balsa again I'll go with a couple layers of 3/8". There is some Kevlar honeycomb at these guys place: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201180773899?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT There are stress cracks around the deck hatch and water has gotten into the balsa, when I started taking some of the hardware off it didn't seem to be very well sealed to keep out any moisture.
  15. alifish

    Smoother, Lighter, Faster

    Got it, nothing structural in my project...YET! Thanks for the advice on dull finishes, I'll try some both ways. I'm going to give vacuum bagging a try, have a few other projects down the line. Want a wood look with the wood totally enclosed in glass/resin so I'll wrap it around