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About alifish

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  1. alifish

    Black Widow Bottom Paint

    Can multiple layers of Black Widow be applied? How much does it need to be sanded to recoat?
  2. alifish

    Fixing a Pad Eye to the deck with no access below

    yes they do however don't think it would hold up to the loads of a barberhauler. Call Harken they import the ropeyes
  3. alifish

    Hello Stress Engineers

    I've also got a J/29 and just repaired my deck in the area of the pulpit! So if the bow pulpit was pushed down enough to flex the bulkhead below the deck that would most definitely cause the bulkhead to flex the hull. I can only assume they saw the damage to the pulpit and deck and the balsa core, and what was under the deck...the bulkhead! Which is attached to the underside of the deck and straight down the bulkhead is the hull at the water line! I would assume the inspection wasn't complete! is the deck/pulpit completely repaired?
  4. alifish

    JBoat Chain Plate core replacement

    GOT IT, thanks Gov and jgbrown
  5. alifish

    New Mainsail - what sailmaker What Type

    Geez do ya really think all the National Advertising is cheap, what do you guys think a multi issue full page ad costs in only one magazine costs or a web banner ad like the exact one at the top of SA??
  6. alifish

    Backstay flicker for an S2 9.1

    Not entirely sure a fractionally rigged S2 7.9 or a Melges 24 batten would work on a masthead S2 9.1, I'd think they would be a little light on long term flex! I'd suggest getting in touch with they might be able to steer you towards a flicker that might be more suitable than a Melges or 7.9. Let us know if you decide to continue down that path what they recommend?? I've often thought about a flicker on my MH J/29 but only in the lightest of airs, for exactly the same reasons you describe. I'm upgrading my backstay system from the split yoke (with an under deck purchase) to a cascading system so expect being able to release all the B/S tension, but hadn't thought about fracking it forward to place an inverse bend in the mast. We have always sailed with a fair amount of pre-bend put on by the B/S yoke w/o any tension on it, and expect to continue to have the pre-bend?
  7. alifish

    JBoat Chain Plate core replacement

    So I'm going to do the core over the entire area, go back and drill out the hole for the plates, take it out a bit, put the plates back in with a wrap around them, then fill it all back up with 610, after it fixes up take the plates out, remove the wrap and add sealant!
  8. So I've approached my balsa core replacement on a J/29 from the top side, leaving the inner skin intact (god only knows what J/Boats was thinking when they built balsa cored decks and didn't ever do any thing that isolates the core from thru deck holes)! Recently was at an industry show and spoke with one of the Grudgeon family (can't remember his first name) about filling holes from attached deck hardware with West epoxy with silica (which is what their manual still says). His recommendation was to use 610 because it wouldn't be as stiff and prone to cracking out when I re-drilled my deck hardware, thought well he's obviously more in touch with their products than I am. Think their manual was written prior to 610? So I've cleaned out an area out to dry wood that surrounds my thru deck holes for chain plates, would the collective brain trust here suggest just placing the new core in and go back and take out the core in the area/holes the chain plates will go through about 1/4" out, wrap the chain plates with release (Maybe just leave them there w/o release) and put 610 back into the holes to fill the area between the surrounding core and the chain plates? Because the chain plates are gonna move around slightly as the mast flexes around, they are held in place by the bulkhead under the deck as we all know so the deck doesn't really do a whole bunch other than keep the water out with some sealant!
  9. alifish

    J/29 Cascading Backstay

    Isn't purchase, purchase didn't think it was dependent on which end ya start at? But I will bow to your apparent knowledge. Guess I'll just get a piece that's as long as the stock BS and tie it off to double check where every thing ends up, and then put my splices in : ) No on the dynema, didn't think would be an issue??
  10. alifish

    J/29 Cascading Backstay

    Got how it works, I too am going to go with a bridle off Starboard side over a big block, and down to a smaller dead-ended block that doubles it. then down to double to align it through some deck holes, then it will go to the 6:1 on each side under the deck. So it starts with the 6:1 under the deck, comes up through the deck and will go to a 4:1 under the bridle, which would make it 24:1, then up to the intermediate block which would again double it - - to 48:1 and double again at the big block that is directly under the bridle top ending up at aprox 96:1. Like your thoughts on a major gross adjustment independent of the fine, guess it could on the dead end of the intermediate block under the bridle. I don't really want to drag in like 20' of line prior to fine adjustments BUT again I ask how much did you shorten the Dyneema backstay from the original length of wire rope termination prior to the split on the wire yoke. Does the length make any difference, like if it's higher or lower to the ratios?
  11. alifish

    J/29 Cascading Backstay

    One Design, ya sure! There never has been any one design racing in J/29s in the PNW, always been a mix of frac and MH. Then some of the fracs had 150% some had 163%, Mixes that with combinations of double and triple oversize chutes. When I got my MH it had 218% spins, in Seattle there was Slick with a 8" taller mast. My MH has all stock measurements. The only Seattle J/29 that beat me consistently was Dynamo Hum, I always felt good about beating them, and we partied hard together! NO HYDRAULICS, want to be able to play the backstay in puffs along with sheet tension and traveler. Will be about the same as 72:1 system, Going to continue to use the under deck 6:1 on each side, with some of the same stuff like Husler. One big block up top, cascading down to another. which cascades down to a double or triple under it and down through the deck which will lead to the each side 6:1 under the deck on each side. With the double it should be about 72, with a triple it would be more. However the purchase amount wasn't my question, How much did you shorten the backstay itself to top block attachment? To accommodate for forestay on or off!
  12. alifish

    J/29 Cascading Backstay

    So I've always run all my purchase internal for my backstay (6:1 under the deck, coming out up and over a turning block under the original split backstay. Back down through deck and to another 6:1 on other side) , want to change to cascading. When I was younger it wasn't so hard to use, but at 66 I don't have the muscle to play it like I used to. When boat owners post pictures of a MH with a cascading system it appears they have shortened the wire from the top of mast to the initial purchase. I'd be going with a synethic backstay and doing the same thing as shown in the class tips on the website.
  13. alifish

    Outboard Bracket for J/29

    Love the Garlick mounts!
  14. alifish

    Eds SC-33 Anarchy 3

    " he mast is indeed very basic. nice, but basic. given that these things rate 96-126 around the country, and that the best one anywhere is in seattle and is, from reliable accounts, no faster than a well sailed j 29 masthead, and that we were no faster than a santana 30/30 gp or a j-27, i'd say the rating isn't close. we'll know more after a couple of bay buoy races this weekend. it's not a bitch, it's simply getting the numbers right. as of now, they don't appear to be. " I used to sail in Seattle against a SC33 in my MHOB J/29, I kicked their ass in every condition. Can't remember the name of the boat but it was golden-yellow!
  15. alifish

    Hull Flex on Trailer

    So what reasoning makes any of think any other Mac hull is any better?