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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About alifish

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  1. strict class

    are you kidding me five races on a one design jib and the leech hooked inboard...like 5". The local north rep said it was designed in, when I said it wasn't that way when we first used it, then the comment changed to designed to have the 5" hook eventually...yeah sure! Those guys are so full of shit!
  2. Pole back! From the FP...

    All the 4KSB are cool, so are the glitzzy rides.
  3. UV degradation to West

    Probably the best answer I could expect, or get
  4. UV degradation to West

    Which book do you prefer? I'd think the possible cause of the blisters was the boat sitting in relatively warm Pacific Northwest river water for over 28 years! the blisters were only through to the top of the 1st layer of glass, they barely got through the Gelcoat. By "going hard and fast to finish" I assume you mean finishing the bottom job, complete through fairing??. No distractions....I assume you have held a 8" mud hog over your head for hours on end, my only distraction has been the ability to hold one of these monsters for more than an hour at a time?
  5. UV degradation to West

    So I've been fairing or re-fairing a boat after a blister job! How long can a boat sit with just fairing in West system epoxy? It's out in direct sunlight, what are the symptoms of problems? This round has taken a whole lot longer than I thought it would, story of my life!
  6. Those guys are wizards, bought some replacement stanchions for my deck mounted J/29 rigs
  7. Canacore

    1983 J/29, Hand Laid, 3/4" balsa core. Yeah 33 years old! Was inside the boat and noticed a crack on underside of foredeck, bout 3-4" to the side of forward hatch 5-7" long fore/aft. Opened it up from underneath maybe the entire length and bout 3" wide just to see what was in in there and core was black, coming out in chunk & crumbles. The foredeck hatch has spider cracks in forward corners radiating outward to maybe 2-3", stopping at nonskid pattern. When tap sounding with what I had at boat (at that time) it seemed there was different tones maybe 5-7' in all directions of the crack previously mentioned along side the hatch, and looking around I see softness at hardware attachments - fair leads outboard of forward edge of hatch, which are about 2-3" from forward edge of initial crack found. I've had repairs at every stanchion base, but I don't know exactly what was done to repair them. Next is taking all the stanchion bases, hatch, bow pulpit, forward dock cleat in the middle of foredeck area off. Obviously still looking for issues, know there will be more:)
  8. Canacore

    The fiberlay company does have balsa core and they aren't asking a lot for it. If you saw the balsa that's coming out of this deck area you wouldn't use it again. If I do balsa again I'll go with a couple layers of 3/8". There is some Kevlar honeycomb at these guys place: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201180773899?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT There are stress cracks around the deck hatch and water has gotten into the balsa, when I started taking some of the hardware off it didn't seem to be very well sealed to keep out any moisture.
  9. Smoother, Lighter, Faster

    Got it, nothing structural in my project...YET! Thanks for the advice on dull finishes, I'll try some both ways. I'm going to give vacuum bagging a try, have a few other projects down the line. Want a wood look with the wood totally enclosed in glass/resin so I'll wrap it around
  10. Horizontal Sliding outboard mount

    A friend used to have a Laurie Davidson 1/4 tonner, they had a motor on a sliding T track system. Tracks went to the end of the cockpit the motor just hung over the back. Worked perfectly EXCEPT when in reverse which the motor didn't have so no biggie. Once they switched to a new slip..which was back in. They centered the boat in front of the slip, spun the motor around for reverse everything was fine until the guy on motor duty revved up the small outboard. It slid right off the tracks and into the water, with the guy holding on to it. His hat was still floating in the exact spot it went under
  11. Smoother, Lighter, Faster

    Was inside my 1983 J/29 and almost every corner of the under bunk areas (straight 3/8" plywood) has a little rot in every outboard corner, which in turn has rotted out the bottom of the vernier on the aft of the bulkhead The vertical walls holding the berth upright had 5/16 plywood with a vernier over it and was rotten in the lower corners, looks like the vernier sucked the water that might have on the floor and left it in the ply?? The Vernier was the only thing holding the ply in place it's all out! http://www.fiberlay.com/prod-core-materials.php?cat=Thermoplastic%20Core&subclass=406025-4066150&startrow=0 now just where to find 1/8" door skins (ala Dennis Choate) that aren't already on a door. There's a cabinet shop next door to my wife's business..hopefully, then give a shot at some vacuum bagging the panels together with a glass wrap around the edges and over the facing vernier...water will never get into there again! Anybody know how to make any resin I put over the exterior facing to be dull, rather than shinny? Shinny is OK but it would just get scuffed from feet or sail bags hitting it. I'll take look at my West Systems book...could always give it a light sanding with maybe 400?
  12. Canacore

    Anyone ever used this product for replacement in specifically a J Boat deck core? http://www.fiberlay.com/prod-core-materials.php?cat=Thermoplastic%20Core&subclass=406025-4066150&startrow=0
  13. J/29 Keel templates

    "Vertical distance down from the hull, where it intersects the trailing edge of the keel" So I'd take that to mean from the bottom of the hull (where??), at a angel from bottom of the hull to the trailing edge..guess that means if the trailing edge is the correct position. How do ya know where that's supposed to be?? I'm going to bet when I did this in 1984/5 I wasn't asking the same questions:)
  14. J/29 Keel templates

    When my 1983 J/29 was new to me I had some keel templates (which I just found in my attic) made and did a extremely nice job on fairing the keel. This coming winter I've got to do a re-fair on the keel and need to know where the stations are measured from the bottom of the hull or where? The root one is obviously the base, and would be the very top, is it after the radius of the hull to the keel. There's locations Root or 1-4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, and 6. Don't really remember how I held the fringing templates up to the keel (they are made out of 1/8" plastic of some sort??) And are super flexible so I will make up some sort of device with 2x4s and a aluminum strip on the template to hold them in place . Asking J/Boats would come up with nothing as they don't support anything on the J/29, and I can't find anything on the J/29 class site.
  15. Fairing with West and 410

    The next AM at 7:30 it's around 50 degrees, water streaks were a different color, slightly lighter and they appeared to raised or thicker than the surrounding areas. Seemed to have hardened and sanding OK with 40 to get past the initial gloss and with 80 to fair. Not entirely sure what is going to be happening long term. I'm going to venture a guess and say the mix absorbed the water slightly and it's suspended in the filler/epoxy, probably going to have to have a couple days of hotter temps to dry it out, will see! In regards to gloves and ventilation..I always use a full face respirator mask, bunny (latex) suit, sock head mask with leather gloves when sanding and Nitrite gloves, bunny suit, usually the mask and when mixing any epoxy and applying overhead.