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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Lucky Dog

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About Lucky Dog

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    Anarchist

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  • Location
    Detroit
  • Interests
    sailing boats

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  1. Awlwood? Anybody use that can review?

    I have done my teak toe rails on my First 40.7. Stripped off the varnish - re-stained with the red stain because the teak was blotchy as it had a yellow tint. The Awlwood is very easy to work with. remember you get what you see so have surface prep done correctly. I prestained with rag - quick wipe down. 1/2 hr later mixed red stain 5% to 10 % with littler Awlwood thinner put a thin coat 3 hrs later added another coat next day clear Awlwood 3 hrs later clear awlwood Then waited for a day or so and sanded with 220 cleaned they put another coat of clear. One season later it looks as good as the day I applied it. I will do a touch up coat each year after a light sanding. One poster remarked about taping - get fine line tape to mask off toe rail as the bleed thru will stain the gel coat.
  2. How to remove First 40.7 Rudder

    Nice Idea - However I have a swim platform so the transom does not lend itself to do that with out some large modification for top pintle. I guess you could build it 4" and get a 8 " span from top to bottom pintle as its really an emergency rudder. Thanks for the idea -
  3. How to remove First 40.7 Rudder

    K you have nailed the steering perfectly. I have shoal draft keel so I am sure that I got the shorter rudder - its shorter by 6 inches or so. The rudder as I measured it goes from 17% foil section at top down to 12% percent thickness. This is typical of a "stock"rudder. This is primarly due to the rudder shaft thickness driving the top to be too thick - If the shaft is built correctly (proper layup and materials) out of carbon it will be correct thickness per the design. The design from the orginal plan is a 13%ish at top to 12% at tip - this is my estimation looking at the plans. The boat rudder max thickness location is way off - it needs to be forward. The trailing edge is also very thick; good news is its all glass so grinding it down is not an issue. So I will get mine as close to the orginal plans as possible both in thickness and depth. I will stiffen rudder up (top to bottom) using Uni-Carbon on each side and then cover entire rudder with bi-axial carbon following Farr's recommendations for skin layup. You can get one made "class legal" that is a ~12% section with thickness in correct location from Larry Tuttle or Phil's Foils. Both do excellent work. They will build the rudder stock correctly so it will be right thickness and the rudder will match the plans perfectly. However this is an 8K upgrade. I just bought 2 3Di headsails so the boat kitty is very dry. SO I am going to try this rebuilt rudder for next year of so... Then if it's still problematic - I will purchase the rights from Farr to build a one off "NEW Design class legal". I will get a new rudder stock and foam blanks made and laminate it together. I used to build boats /rudders and I like doing this stuff for myself. Its fun and I really enjoy doing it plus I have all the resin infusion equipment in the basement. I will post some pictures once I get old rudder shaped - that is going to take me a few weeks doing it at nights and on weekends. FYI - Another First 40.7 owner re-faired his rudder and he was happy with improvement - at least that is what I read.
  4. How to remove First 40.7 Rudder

    Yep - good advice. The stainless bearing is perfect except its loose on the shaft - both top and bottom. I am going to use West System G-Flex to re-bond the bearings. The stainless and "e-Glass" did not stick together (thermo expansion?) very well. The bog in between the shaft and bearing is very sloppy/not nicely done. When I see crap I fix it - The bushings in the boat look good may or may not replace them. The get to them you need a spanner to turn this "nut" off this Al tube on the bottom. The top bushing is bolted in. The Al tube keeps the water out. So if you take if off to get to bearings need to have boat out of the water. Note - I took mine off in the water to see if it was possible - it is. Next step is to create a much smaller emergency rudder and a system to install. I have seen/heard of this on Volvo boats. This of course is needed for some of the races that I do and I actually want my emergency steering to work.
  5. How to remove First 40.7 Rudder

    I did not take any water inside the boat when rudder was out. One way to check if rudder is free of bushing is to push down with your foot on rudder head. If it moves down ~20 mm and comes back up then its not stuck. Assuming yours floats or is not waterlogged.
  6. How to remove First 40.7 Rudder

    Well - it was really easy. I took the quadrant apart (forgot the get the stainless pin). Removed the Top pin, pushed straight down with a broom handle very hard (fast) and the rudder popped out. You can see I got lucky with the quadrant pin - it stayed in the post for some reason. I grabbed that before fell out. If you try to float yours get this pin when you take apart the quadrant. I used hoist to put in pick up. I could have picked it up as its not very heavy. I have the Farr Drawings (paid for them). The post is not Carbon the paddle inside the rudder is Carbon. I think the post is e-glass. The rudder skin is fiberglass - should be carbon. I am using templates to shape - rudder will be re-skinned with Carbon per the drawing. The stock rudder is approximately ~ 20 mm too thick and max thickness way aft (~42%). The trailing edge is very fat - removing a lot of material there.
  7. I am changing back to my 8 year old original 2 bladed geared prop from a the Volvo 3 bladed geared due to prop drag in light air. The boats Wake has a ton of turbulence and I have a very good bottom so I am trying this for next season. Boat is a First 40.7. Looking for tips to evaluate if the old prop needs to be redone or not? the spline seems tight. The blades have some sloppy-ness , gears look good - I have seen much worse on my old Martec's. How do you tell if the prop needs fixing? Is there a service manual with actual spec's to measure? Thanks
  8. An Idiot, a cat, and a sailboat

    Tom - that is great advice thank you for posting.
  9. Keel bulb repair on a Pogo2 MiniTransat. Any ideas?

    Just saw this - the laser what did you use to get that? thanks much Tom
  10. Engine mount replacement

    When I replaced my mounts - went with the PYI mounts, shaft seal and flex able coupler. had a new shaft made as mine was toast. You will still have the same harmonic's but the peaks will be lower - better. I would get the coupler.
  11. Wanted Missing VOR Skipper

    Ok so he's an Australian and he is clueless on how to behave in what I would call normal society. And he is proud of it. I lived with 4 of these guys in CA - would have fit right in with them total jerks. The real point is why are you not suprised. This behavior is wrong - the other problem for this guy he will never see it that way as he only knows what he knows (like a teenager).
  12. I'm making a rudder

    Here is the bit I was referring to earlier for my project - it cuts really clean ON fiberglass carbon. Got it from Mac Master Carr I used it on wood for one pass it left a smooth cut with minor raised grain
  13. I'm making a rudder

    I have been thinking of doing this to my exsisting rudder - its the wrong shape. I could either hand sand it into shape using templates then long boarding in between the templates. Or build a jig like you did. My problem would be to get the jigs centered on the midlines of rudder correctly (1/2 point). Maybe glue them in place??? As it not really far off maybe hand sanding is all I need to do. What you are doing is very cool - I realize this is much too late - you might get better results using a milling bit. I got a 1/2 inch fiberglass cutting bit and it cuts wood/ext very nicly. keep posting - love the workshop
  14. New Sails

    Um your comments seem to refer to a 3DL sail. A 3DL sail is a laminate and they tended to delaminate just as you described. The 3Di is a resin sail with no laminates at all - a 3Di could not fail the way you are describing. I will say it again - 3Di's have gone around the planet once and are still being used as racing sails on boats that go up to 35 knots. No Laminate sail will do that or could do that. they flex flex and flex and then the glue that holds the laminates together breaks down and the threads start to move. Movement is very bad - but the good news is the laminate will shred before the threads break most times. Look at it this way: you cannot get a laminate sail to be perfectly bonded to the threads in it. there will be a gap as the threads have volume (very small) ; this gap gets larger as the sail wears allowing for movement (shape changes). However: 3Di is expensive - good luck