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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

DSE

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Everything posted by DSE

  1. Bad Company

    That's one of the yellow SC27s. Yes, a well sailed and dedicated crew. I remember that race and the speech from the crew afterwards.
  2. Bad Company

    There's SC33 that does pretty well in most PNW races. Weird hearing that it doesn't sail to its rating.
  3. I'm looking into purchasing a Santana 30/30 GP. The majority of what I've read indicates the boat to be a great light wind PHRF racer. I've also read that there weren't very many of these made (40 GP's and 40 PCs I think). I've been able to find info on the WD Shock website and sites like SailingJoy regarding the rig and displacement. I have not been able to find much on polars, known issues, upgrades, etc., similar to whats on the Soverel 33 site. The Santana 30/30 site appears to be defunct. Does anyone have sources for this info? As far performance, would I be close using data from something like a j-30? My hope is that it would be competitive against a B-25, J-35, Express 37, J-105 in mostly light wind. I currently race a Catalina 30, PHRF 189 (Ewgaad right?) and struggle to compete with a Cal 9.2 (186), thunderbird 26 (195), catalina 27 (222) in anything less 8 knots. Thanks
  4. The checkstays on on my 3030 used a car on track that was between the genoa car and cabin top. A dyneema line (3/16 I think) was tied from the car up to the mast. There was another line connected to the car, led aft, and then cleated in a cam cleat for adjusting tension. For the hatch, I had called up W.D. Shock and they were able to make a fiberglass one from the original mold. I think mine was the same as shock 35. This was about 5 or 6 years ago, not sure if they will still do this.
  5. Some polars and trimming guide I used for my 3030.Perfomance_cheatsheet2.xls
  6. Sidestay tension, why does it matter?

    If you have 100kN of preload, you would need a 100kN load to over come that preload. A bolted joint is another example of this: http://www.machinedesign.com/fasteners/demystifying-bolt-preload The preload is basically a stretched spring. To stretch that spring even more you need to apply a force that is greater than the force required to stretch the spring when it was slack.
  7. I've read a couple threads where people have used a choker or inhauler on a masthead rigged halyard for flying a fractional kite. I guess I'm wondering what is used just above the forestay fitting for the choker/inhauler to work on a carbon fiber mast. The boat is an FT10 and I know a bunch of boats have been modded to fly a fraction kite. I was thinking something like this might work: http://www.melges.com/?p=store/details&sku=12263&cat=43&SID=gnhak0m4r8cplb15puet9itfl6 I was also thinking about CNC machining something out G10 and glassing on to the mast, but would prefer a simpler solution.
  8. FT 10M

    An easy fix for the footrest/benson issue. https://www.mcmaster.com/#30325K66
  9. Flying Tiger

    In the heavy upwind chop it seems like you'd still risk the mast hitting the forward area of the partners. Maybe putting more tension on the lower diagonals would keep this from happening? I've seen where a line is tied to the mast, back through an unused halyard clutch and then tightened to keep the mast from pumping forward. I suspect this may be the system MHK had used as it also gives you the ability to slightly adjust the mast rake and lower fore/aft mast bend.
  10. Flying Tiger

    Sandbar, not a rock.
  11. Flying Tiger

    Thanks for the info. I think the drawing would be helpful. I have been able to locate where the sleeve ends above the forestay. I'm assuming the block used is the same as the harken spinnaker halyard block.
  12. Flying Tiger

    Cazza, Thanks for the ideas. You are guys are looking good there. Lashing a friction ring to that hole in the forestay fitting crossed my mind as an option as well. I did find out that North Sails has a fractional 'kit', but they weren't clear on how they rig it.
  13. CF mast refinish

    Loss? A lot more "slaving" to remove the flaking failed clear only to have to repaint again.
  14. CF mast refinish

    I'd just roll and tip with awlgrip primer and topcoat with a solid color, not clear. Clear won't do as good of job for UV protection and will fail/flake off after a few years.
  15. Flying Tiger

    That's what I have except I'm unsure on how to best rig the choker/inhauler part.
  16. Flying Tiger

    I know a lot FT10s have a fractional spinnaker halyard setup using a choker/inhauler. I've got a masthead crane and pulley figured out, but was wondering about how the choker/inhauler is rigged. Are people cutting a knockout for a sheave above the forestay fitting?
  17. Yanmar 1GM

    The exhaust elbow on these don't last that long and the head will have a bunch carbon deposits restricting flow as well. There used to be someone on ebay selling them for $100. To clean the carbon deposits out of the head, it's probably best to pull the head (not hard to do). When cleaning, be careful not to chisel into the water jacket. If you damage the head a new one will be about $400. With head off, you can inspect the cylinder walls and valves which are probably fine. Not related to your issue, but keep an eye on the water pump leaking salt water onto the aluminum oil case cover and corroding it. If it's leaking, pull the pump and replace the seals and possibly the shaft.
  18. Fractional Spinnaker Halyard

    Sarcoma, did you end up finding a setup that worked? I was planning the same thing on an FT10. I don't a have sheave or anything above the forestay and I'm a little reluctant to cut or drill in this area of the carbon carbon mast.
  19. Boots

    They're lightweight, flexible and plenty of grip on a fiberglass deck. In the year or so I've used them, they've held up well and don't leak. I try to be careful to not wear them much off the boat but have occasionally. The tread is fairly soft and is starting to show a little wear. They aren't difficult to pull off after unstrapping the velcro as they're fairly stretchy. I tried on the Dubarrys when I tried these on and these felt less clumsy, almost like wearing an athletic deck shoe. I don't think they'll last as long as Dubarrys, but it I didn't pay the Dubarry price either.
  20. Stanchion Braces

    Looking for a source for these stanchion braces. I've seen similar versions (http://www.suncorstainless.com/stanchion-brace and https://garhauermarine.com/images/product/ST-32.jpg), but none with the big washer and rod that allow you to bolt it thru the deck. Maybe they are custom.
  21. Stanchion Braces

    To followup on, Garhauer was able to make a set of these. Thanks Allen.
  22. I'm looking for info about what licenses I need and how to obtain them to charter a 30-40ft sailboat in France or Spain. I would like to do a 4 or 5 day cruise either in the Mediterranean or the English channel. I've owned, raced and cruised several keel boats over 30ft for 10+ years, but don't have a license as it's not required where I sail (Seattle, WA). I did find this: http://www.sailingcertification.net/resource-center/bareboat-chartering-in-europe It says I would need a "bare boat cruising" certificate, which can be turned into a "International Proficiency Certificate" that's accepted in many European countries. Is this a common and accepted method for bare boat charter companies? It also says courses to get the certificate can be challenged. Has anyone tried to do this? Is this difficult to do? .
  23. Santana 30/30 in classifieds

    We were hitting 14s here. Felt like planing, but maybe it was more surfing... I don't know.
  24. I'm considering buying ONE new sail ...

    I'd get a new 150 and a used symmetric. It seems like used symmetric kites are little easier to come by. Under 15knots, double handing with a symmetric shouldn't be too difficult on 26ft boat and will would probably be easier to race with from a tactical perspective (more forgiving with deeper apparent wind angles). For sail makers in Seattle, Ballard sails have a pretty good reputation. Not sure about ulman sails. A friend with 40.7 who went with them recently did not have the best experience.
  25. Boots

    Been using these for over a year now in the NW. They don't really have a gator, but I like how they fit. No problems so far. I got them during visit in France. Not sure who sells them in the US. http://www.lizardfootwear.com/en-us/SPIN_16SM-11204.p.html?_col=13882#