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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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Everything posted by DSE

  1. Thanks for the info. I think the drawing would be helpful. I have been able to locate where the sleeve ends above the forestay. I'm assuming the block used is the same as the harken spinnaker halyard block.
  2. Cazza, Thanks for the ideas. You are guys are looking good there. Lashing a friction ring to that hole in the forestay fitting crossed my mind as an option as well. I did find out that North Sails has a fractional 'kit', but they weren't clear on how they rig it.
  3. Loss? A lot more "slaving" to remove the flaking failed clear only to have to repaint again.
  4. I've read a couple threads where people have used a choker or inhauler on a masthead rigged halyard for flying a fractional kite. I guess I'm wondering what is used just above the forestay fitting for the choker/inhauler to work on a carbon fiber mast. The boat is an FT10 and I know a bunch of boats have been modded to fly a fraction kite. I was thinking something like this might work: http://www.melges.com/?p=store/details&sku=12263&cat=43&SID=gnhak0m4r8cplb15puet9itfl6 I was also thinking about CNC machining something out G10 and glassing on to the mast, but would prefer a simpler solution.
  5. I'd just roll and tip with awlgrip primer and topcoat with a solid color, not clear. Clear won't do as good of job for UV protection and will fail/flake off after a few years.
  6. That's what I have except I'm unsure on how to best rig the choker/inhauler part.
  7. I know a lot FT10s have a fractional spinnaker halyard setup using a choker/inhauler. I've got a masthead crane and pulley figured out, but was wondering about how the choker/inhauler is rigged. Are people cutting a knockout for a sheave above the forestay fitting?
  8. I'm looking into purchasing a Santana 30/30 GP. The majority of what I've read indicates the boat to be a great light wind PHRF racer. I've also read that there weren't very many of these made (40 GP's and 40 PCs I think). I've been able to find info on the WD Shock website and sites like SailingJoy regarding the rig and displacement. I have not been able to find much on polars, known issues, upgrades, etc., similar to whats on the Soverel 33 site. The Santana 30/30 site appears to be defunct. Does anyone have sources for this info? As far performance, would I be close using data from something like a j-30? My hope is that it would be competitive against a B-25, J-35, Express 37, J-105 in mostly light wind. I currently race a Catalina 30, PHRF 189 (Ewgaad right?) and struggle to compete with a Cal 9.2 (186), thunderbird 26 (195), catalina 27 (222) in anything less 8 knots. Thanks
  9. The exhaust elbow on these don't last that long and the head will have a bunch carbon deposits restricting flow as well. There used to be someone on ebay selling them for $100. To clean the carbon deposits out of the head, it's probably best to pull the head (not hard to do). When cleaning, be careful not to chisel into the water jacket. If you damage the head a new one will be about $400. With head off, you can inspect the cylinder walls and valves which are probably fine. Not related to your issue, but keep an eye on the water pump leaking salt water onto the aluminum oil case cover and corroding it. If it's leaking, pull the pump and replace the seals and possibly the shaft.
  10. Sarcoma, did you end up finding a setup that worked? I was planning the same thing on an FT10. I don't a have sheave or anything above the forestay and I'm a little reluctant to cut or drill in this area of the carbon carbon mast.
  11. They're lightweight, flexible and plenty of grip on a fiberglass deck. In the year or so I've used them, they've held up well and don't leak. I try to be careful to not wear them much off the boat but have occasionally. The tread is fairly soft and is starting to show a little wear. They aren't difficult to pull off after unstrapping the velcro as they're fairly stretchy. I tried on the Dubarrys when I tried these on and these felt less clumsy, almost like wearing an athletic deck shoe. I don't think they'll last as long as Dubarrys, but it I didn't pay the Dubarry price either.
  12. Looking for a source for these stanchion braces. I've seen similar versions (http://www.suncorstainless.com/stanchion-brace and https://garhauermarine.com/images/product/ST-32.jpg), but none with the big washer and rod that allow you to bolt it thru the deck. Maybe they are custom.
  13. To followup on, Garhauer was able to make a set of these. Thanks Allen.
  14. I'm looking for info about what licenses I need and how to obtain them to charter a 30-40ft sailboat in France or Spain. I would like to do a 4 or 5 day cruise either in the Mediterranean or the English channel. I've owned, raced and cruised several keel boats over 30ft for 10+ years, but don't have a license as it's not required where I sail (Seattle, WA). I did find this: http://www.sailingcertification.net/resource-center/bareboat-chartering-in-europe It says I would need a "bare boat cruising" certificate, which can be turned into a "International Proficiency Certificate" that's accepted in many European countries. Is this a common and accepted method for bare boat charter companies? It also says courses to get the certificate can be challenged. Has anyone tried to do this? Is this difficult to do? .
  15. We were hitting 14s here. Felt like planing, but maybe it was more surfing... I don't know.
  16. I'd get a new 150 and a used symmetric. It seems like used symmetric kites are little easier to come by. Under 15knots, double handing with a symmetric shouldn't be too difficult on 26ft boat and will would probably be easier to race with from a tactical perspective (more forgiving with deeper apparent wind angles). For sail makers in Seattle, Ballard sails have a pretty good reputation. Not sure about ulman sails. A friend with 40.7 who went with them recently did not have the best experience.
  17. Been using these for over a year now in the NW. They don't really have a gator, but I like how they fit. No problems so far. I got them during visit in France. Not sure who sells them in the US. http://www.lizardfootwear.com/en-us/SPIN_16SM-11204.p.html?_col=13882#
  18. Stupidest? Is there a movie about sailing that isn't stupid?
  19. On the lights issue: Per SI: "Safety requirements US Sailing Nearshore, except that any single or double-handed crews must wear a PFD at all times." The US sailing Nearshore requirement: "A boat racing between sunset and sunrise shall carry navigation lights that meet U. S. Coast Guard or applicable government requirements mounted so that they will not be obscured by the sails nor be located below deck level."
  20. Fun race. Interesting wind conditions up until Blakely rock. At first I thought it was crazy that the RC was not going to shorten, but in the end it turned out to be good call as the wind finally filled in. We had a good time and the crew on the rail was able to catch the game on the long tack back to finish. Hearing that boats weren't running nav lights after dark kind of bugged me, especially in commercial shipping traffic.
  21. Tigger will be there.
  22. I haven't used the original designed rudder, but the Betts rudder has been working great for us. It has a real articulate, responsive feel to it. I've ramp launched from the trailer many times now and have never had a problem with the keel hoist. The engine hatch is the only other minor issue I've had. It got jammed up a couple races ago. What have other owners done to fix this?
  23. I'm 6'2" and the bensons are tough on the knees when heeled. Maybe I'll add a beer-holder/middle benson thing I thought I remember seeing somebody do here or have Dan K. do something with raptor deck.
  24. Nice - great to hear you are on the right track. PM me if you Want to bounce ideas at all. We've had 8 great seasons with #71 - buoys and distance racing. It's been a great boat. Definitely a fun boat for us too, especially when we get other FT10s out. We've had some fun with Anarchy in the last couple races.
  25. Yep, already been down that road with the previous boat. It helped a little, but I've found that there are so many more priorities in making the boat fast than jumping into new sails. A big one is developing an experienced consistent crew. We've actually won quite a few club races with the current set. The main reason the jib blew up was because we should have been flying the heavy air jib.