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About markvannote

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    Newport, RI

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  1. markvannote

    fully open turnbuckles or remove pins on rigging

    Help your future self and commit to a number like 5 off the D's and 10 off the V's when loosening and make it your lifetime process. (even though your D1's will be slack after 2-3) Pin your turnbuckles in their loose state after taking the mast out. Clean the lube off the threads in the fall and reapply right before it goes back in in the spring. Getting a gauge reading now as yoyo mentioned is a good idea to check yourself in the spring. D's can definitely come off early if it's a short trip around the yard. If your V's are hard at all then pull on some backstay and they will loosen right up. (Or use your main halyard to the trav. Can't remember how involved disconnecting the backstay is on the 88) Mark
  2. markvannote


    Hi Alan. There were a lot of storylines there, a lot of which I was blissfully unaware of, which I will just leave in the past. Happy to be where I am now and sad that the G4 never saw it's potential as whatever the hell it could have been. Mark
  3. markvannote


    Been laying low on this thread but I see some friendlies chiming in. (Hi fellas) The original owner is still the owner. He had to go to court to prove ownership during the bankruptcy which is unfortunate. He is a very nice guy who found himself in a bad situation. He is also older and not in tip-top shape so the boat is for sale but no idea how actively he is working on that. Last I knew it was for sale through Daedalus but that knowledge is over a year old. The main foils are still manual up/down and hydraulically actuated in rake. They are controlled by toggle switches on newly installed pods in front of the helm. You can control each board individually from either side. There are string pots installed for limitation of rake but the work has not been done to have rake values up on the B&G's. (I am pretty sure this is a simple project for a good sparky) The rudders are on electric actuators and, again, controlled by toggle switches on the same pod and linked together so both side toggles control both rudders at the same time. From memory there is no string pot on the rudders but, on this boat, that is a gross tune adjustment. A hydraulic pump was installed in the starboard hull which is powered by the 48v battery bank through an inverter. There is no active flight control in any way. The foot pedal hydraulic pumps for the mainsheet are gone. They had installed VERY basic hand pumps in Holland which have since been switched out. (Harken now, I believe) The plumbing for the mainsheet cylinder is still original so, personally, I would look into improving that which includes larger hose, fittings, removing all extraneous fittings or unions, all of the things you would do to make liquid flow faster. One of the biggest contributors to the capsize was the only release was at the helm which was addressed with a separate release valve with a pull cord around the cockpit for access by anyone. The pedal thing was clever but asking the helm to stay locked in, steer the boat and be johnny on the spot with the panic button while tipping was, well, you saw it. (I was not on board during the capsize.) I have moved the boat around quite a bit including Wanchese to Newport in 36 hours, Newport to Annapolis and Annapolis to the outer banks down the intercoastal and there is no reason you cannot sail the boat completely under control in any condition within reason. The foils can be set such that the boat will just not foil. Skimming mode is awesome and safe. If you were completely sold on not foiling you would look into modifying the existing boards into c-foils without the "J" and decreasing the size of the elevators on the rudders. The existing boards are as C as you can get them now without moving the lower bearing inboard in the hull. You could remove a ton of gear and weight by fixing the rake controls but the boards would be heavy as they are designed and built to handle the loads of foiling. Purpose built c-boards would most likely be half the weight. If it were my boat I would complete the work that was started in Holland. They made some good changes but there is a lot of tightening up to be done as there was not a lot of money going into it. I would look into plumbing the mainsheet into the electric pump and having it push-button with multiple panic buttons throughout the cockpit. I would power up one of the cabin-house winches. I would keep the foils as is until I came to the conclusion that I was not foiling enough per hours of sailing to make it worthwhile. I would add to the battery bank in order to get more than an hour of motoring out of the ocean-volt or investigate dinosaur powered propulsion. I would absolutely, without a doubt, put my family on it, crush out to Nantucket in a third of the time and live aboard for extended weekends of maybe a week's vacation. This is all assuming I was in a VERY different tax bracket where a million dollar cat was the financial equivalent to my existing 2004 Volvo wagon. My guess is you could get this boat for $600k but would expect to spend upwards of $100k right away not including sails. (totally out of my ass there and I do not have a breakdown of those costs) I get that the topic of this boat is very polarizing and a hot topic at times. That's fine but please don't make me regret posting. I think you all know what I mean. Thanks. Mark
  4. The only times I remember doing this was for very specific customers, Ben Hall's A-Class mainsheet for example. He used to like 8mm swiftcord for handling which I would step down to 3mm dyneema single-braid. This was before Superswift which has a core so it went Swiftcord to 5mm dyneema to 3mm dyneema. The back end had a 2mm traveler bridle as his sheet/traveler was continuous. The step-down made for the smoothest transition through the blocks as this was also long enough ago that he was sheeting from the back beam and the cleat, needing cover, was mounted on the block so all of those splices were in the purchase. The debate is which dyneema to use. A longer helix braid like Marlow will be easier top splice but you risk having ends of the hand rope taper poking out. A shorter helix braid like NER will keep it all contained better but harder to do the work. I guess I could have half-assed it and ended with 4mm like HW... (you miss me, admit it)
  5. markvannote

    -3 Rod

    I know that Jay at Annapolis Rigging got the presses and dies from Hall when they went under but I am not sure if the rod inventory ended up with him or Rig Pro. There was -3 there as well as the die but they might have gotten split up. Some breadcrumbs for you to follow at least... Mark
  6. markvannote

    axial crack in rod head

    For what it's worth, if I saw that rod while working at Hall Spars I would condemn it. No crack is "good" but that one carries on to the waist of the head where the stemball bears. The shape of the head from the heading process is never a perfect shape as compared to the stemball which was machined and who knows wear the true point loading is on that circumference. Assuming the load is being bridged across the crack evenly could be a big mistake. - The other line that someone mentioned is "flashing" from the two parts of the die not being perfectly aligned during the heading process. Fairly typical but a good rigger will buff those out. - Mike has one point in that the first rod diameter's length in the die does get fairly work hardened during the process. If you do re-head, which is perfectly fine, you do want to cut about a rod diameters distance down from the waist of the head. I have also just had bad runs of rod, usually bigger stuff, which would split at the major diameter no matter what you try. Rod up to around -60, sometimes -76, is extruded to diameter which is a dark art in itself and no two coils are the same. - Someone, maybe joking, made a potentially great suggestion. Could you get a wire stay made up and sent to you quickly to get you through the rest of the season? Thanks. Mark
  7. markvannote

    Harken 885 Large Snap Shackle Substitue

    Sorry, just realized you are in Canada. (Eh?) WPG Canada,, is our retailer for up there. Hopefully Damien is not all hot from me linking US Distributors. (sorry buddy)
  8. markvannote

    Harken 885 Large Snap Shackle Substitue

    I believe our Wichard 2476 is a direct replacement. You may want to confirm the grip length of the pin to make sure it fits on the lug of the furler. Links to various online distributors below: Thanks. Mark
  9. markvannote

    Quick connect bilge hose?
  10. markvannote

    W/L racing - hanks OR tuff luff / harken carbo foil

    Huh. That's a new one. Sure it wasn't your stupid bowman?
  11. Oh hey, look at that. You guys are never a bother. Right? Sending you a PM CPT.
  12. markvannote

    J80 Hall Mast Parts & Pieces

    Hi Tonka, I was looking to message you but possibly you have the feature turned off. First, if you are looking for Hall parts do call Cara as someone mentioned in your other post. She would be the only one who knows if there are any parts in their containers. Second, we have been talking to the class president a lot about being involved more with the class and helping out with the worlds. (By "we" I mean Sparcraft.) Give us a ring and we can talk about what your region needs and how we can help out. We have things going out to Kevin Hayes all the time so shipping probably is quite reasonable depending on what is needed. Again, give us a ring. (or email Henry at Thanks Mark
  13. markvannote

    Best knee pads for bowperson?

    Got these last summer and was quite pleased with them. (Amazon link was ridiculous so that's a hyperlink) Inexpensive enough that I wouldn't be upset if they didn't hold up to the non-skid but they performed well. Learned they stay in place better under rather than over compression pants if you are wearing those. I would definitely buy them again. Thanks. Mark
  14. markvannote

    Cable less Code Zero development

    Skipping the Helix part of this conversation for a second, top/down with internal luff cable has been going on for a while now. Most IRC 75% girth masthead zeros, Volvo 65 A3's, Gunboat A3's and screachers. I do have personal experience with this and it's fantastic.
  15. markvannote

    Cable less Code Zero development

    Yeah, this sail appears to be Doyle. Which video is this? Would like to get a view of what appears to be a furling non-overlapping sail and figure out why you would even do that. (I started watching the finish live and until the end so maybe there was a peel I missed.)