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About markvannote

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    Newport, RI

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  1. markvannote

    T-ball identification

    Hello, This page has all the details for the Navtec N743. I know Vela has them on their site. Thanks. Mark Navtec N743.pdf
  2. markvannote

    AC TV Coverage

    Nord here as well. I decided to go to NZ. There is no covid there. Seems to be working. Hopefully the curtain doesn't drop at 8:59 EST tonight.
  3. Any chance this is a Sparcraft boom? I am sure we would have an off-cut somewhere in Charlotte which would match the profile of the section if it is. If you are making from scratch it is best to anodize the plate after cutting, shaping, drilling and tapping. For all the reasons. I know, easy for me to say with access to a 70ft tank. As someone said above, start with 1X the bolt diameter and you will be covered in tension which is your worst case scenario. Guessing you are in sheer but no reason to skimp since you are adding material anyway. Thanks. Mark
  4. markvannote


    Has the original suit. Main, solent, J1 and R1.
  5. markvannote

    fully open turnbuckles or remove pins on rigging

    Help your future self and commit to a number like 5 off the D's and 10 off the V's when loosening and make it your lifetime process. (even though your D1's will be slack after 2-3) Pin your turnbuckles in their loose state after taking the mast out. Clean the lube off the threads in the fall and reapply right before it goes back in in the spring. Getting a gauge reading now as yoyo mentioned is a good idea to check yourself in the spring. D's can definitely come off early if it's a short trip around the yard. If your V's are hard at all then pull on some backstay and they will loosen right up. (Or use your main halyard to the trav. Can't remember how involved disconnecting the backstay is on the 88) Mark
  6. markvannote


    Hi Alan. There were a lot of storylines there, a lot of which I was blissfully unaware of, which I will just leave in the past. Happy to be where I am now and sad that the G4 never saw it's potential as whatever the hell it could have been. Mark
  7. markvannote


    Been laying low on this thread but I see some friendlies chiming in. (Hi fellas) The original owner is still the owner. He had to go to court to prove ownership during the bankruptcy which is unfortunate. He is a very nice guy who found himself in a bad situation. He is also older and not in tip-top shape so the boat is for sale but no idea how actively he is working on that. Last I knew it was for sale through Daedalus but that knowledge is over a year old. The main foils are still manual up/down and hydraulically actuated in rake. They are controlled by toggle switches on newly installed pods in front of the helm. You can control each board individually from either side. There are string pots installed for limitation of rake but the work has not been done to have rake values up on the B&G's. (I am pretty sure this is a simple project for a good sparky) The rudders are on electric actuators and, again, controlled by toggle switches on the same pod and linked together so both side toggles control both rudders at the same time. From memory there is no string pot on the rudders but, on this boat, that is a gross tune adjustment. A hydraulic pump was installed in the starboard hull which is powered by the 48v battery bank through an inverter. There is no active flight control in any way. The foot pedal hydraulic pumps for the mainsheet are gone. They had installed VERY basic hand pumps in Holland which have since been switched out. (Harken now, I believe) The plumbing for the mainsheet cylinder is still original so, personally, I would look into improving that which includes larger hose, fittings, removing all extraneous fittings or unions, all of the things you would do to make liquid flow faster. One of the biggest contributors to the capsize was the only release was at the helm which was addressed with a separate release valve with a pull cord around the cockpit for access by anyone. The pedal thing was clever but asking the helm to stay locked in, steer the boat and be johnny on the spot with the panic button while tipping was, well, you saw it. (I was not on board during the capsize.) I have moved the boat around quite a bit including Wanchese to Newport in 36 hours, Newport to Annapolis and Annapolis to the outer banks down the intercoastal and there is no reason you cannot sail the boat completely under control in any condition within reason. The foils can be set such that the boat will just not foil. Skimming mode is awesome and safe. If you were completely sold on not foiling you would look into modifying the existing boards into c-foils without the "J" and decreasing the size of the elevators on the rudders. The existing boards are as C as you can get them now without moving the lower bearing inboard in the hull. You could remove a ton of gear and weight by fixing the rake controls but the boards would be heavy as they are designed and built to handle the loads of foiling. Purpose built c-boards would most likely be half the weight. If it were my boat I would complete the work that was started in Holland. They made some good changes but there is a lot of tightening up to be done as there was not a lot of money going into it. I would look into plumbing the mainsheet into the electric pump and having it push-button with multiple panic buttons throughout the cockpit. I would power up one of the cabin-house winches. I would keep the foils as is until I came to the conclusion that I was not foiling enough per hours of sailing to make it worthwhile. I would add to the battery bank in order to get more than an hour of motoring out of the ocean-volt or investigate dinosaur powered propulsion. I would absolutely, without a doubt, put my family on it, crush out to Nantucket in a third of the time and live aboard for extended weekends of maybe a week's vacation. This is all assuming I was in a VERY different tax bracket where a million dollar cat was the financial equivalent to my existing 2004 Volvo wagon. My guess is you could get this boat for $600k but would expect to spend upwards of $100k right away not including sails. (totally out of my ass there and I do not have a breakdown of those costs) I get that the topic of this boat is very polarizing and a hot topic at times. That's fine but please don't make me regret posting. I think you all know what I mean. Thanks. Mark
  8. The only times I remember doing this was for very specific customers, Ben Hall's A-Class mainsheet for example. He used to like 8mm swiftcord for handling which I would step down to 3mm dyneema single-braid. This was before Superswift which has a core so it went Swiftcord to 5mm dyneema to 3mm dyneema. The back end had a 2mm traveler bridle as his sheet/traveler was continuous. The step-down made for the smoothest transition through the blocks as this was also long enough ago that he was sheeting from the back beam and the cleat, needing cover, was mounted on the block so all of those splices were in the purchase. The debate is which dyneema to use. A longer helix braid like Marlow will be easier top splice but you risk having ends of the hand rope taper poking out. A shorter helix braid like NER will keep it all contained better but harder to do the work. I guess I could have half-assed it and ended with 4mm like HW... (you miss me, admit it)
  9. markvannote

    -3 Rod

    I know that Jay at Annapolis Rigging got the presses and dies from Hall when they went under but I am not sure if the rod inventory ended up with him or Rig Pro. There was -3 there as well as the die but they might have gotten split up. Some breadcrumbs for you to follow at least... Mark
  10. markvannote

    axial crack in rod head

    For what it's worth, if I saw that rod while working at Hall Spars I would condemn it. No crack is "good" but that one carries on to the waist of the head where the stemball bears. The shape of the head from the heading process is never a perfect shape as compared to the stemball which was machined and who knows wear the true point loading is on that circumference. Assuming the load is being bridged across the crack evenly could be a big mistake. - The other line that someone mentioned is "flashing" from the two parts of the die not being perfectly aligned during the heading process. Fairly typical but a good rigger will buff those out. - Mike has one point in that the first rod diameter's length in the die does get fairly work hardened during the process. If you do re-head, which is perfectly fine, you do want to cut about a rod diameters distance down from the waist of the head. I have also just had bad runs of rod, usually bigger stuff, which would split at the major diameter no matter what you try. Rod up to around -60, sometimes -76, is extruded to diameter which is a dark art in itself and no two coils are the same. - Someone, maybe joking, made a potentially great suggestion. Could you get a wire stay made up and sent to you quickly to get you through the rest of the season? Thanks. Mark
  11. markvannote

    Harken 885 Large Snap Shackle Substitue

    Sorry, just realized you are in Canada. (Eh?) WPG Canada,, is our retailer for up there. Hopefully Damien is not all hot from me linking US Distributors. (sorry buddy)
  12. markvannote

    Harken 885 Large Snap Shackle Substitue

    I believe our Wichard 2476 is a direct replacement. You may want to confirm the grip length of the pin to make sure it fits on the lug of the furler. Links to various online distributors below: Thanks. Mark
  13. markvannote

    Quick connect bilge hose?
  14. markvannote

    W/L racing - hanks OR tuff luff / harken carbo foil

    Huh. That's a new one. Sure it wasn't your stupid bowman?
  15. Oh hey, look at that. You guys are never a bother. Right? Sending you a PM CPT.