USA 5184

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Everything posted by USA 5184

  1. I find it striking how much stock people put in the office of the president of the united states, whomever might hold that position. Ask a former member of the National Socialist Workers party what can happen when you put all your eggs in one basket… I implore you all to think for yourselves and realize that Covid is not just one man’s problem, nor is it just one state or even country’s problem. I think any reasonable person can come to the conclusion that he didn’t want to insight unnecessary panic on the American people. Trump is not America’s dad as Obama was and doesn’t have the professorial diction Obama did. Those suffering from Trump Derangement Syndrome will always fight every decision makes. When he closed the boarders, “He’s a xenophob!!” or when he says we can reuse a mask, “He has no idea what he’s talking about!”. In the end, I believe the decisive action of closing boarders saved lives and wearing reusable face coverings is now the norm. The TDS’ers and their tireless quest to find the “smoking gun” is exhausting just to watch. “HERE IT IS”, “LOOK OVER HERE! I FOUND IT” the media shouts daily. Its almost a disservice to their own pursuit as they’ve supersaturated all outlets with “the smoking gun”, that if they ever actually found the real McCoy, it might go unnoticed or simply no one will care because they’ve been soo conditioned for it. I think it is important to realize that no one person has all the answers even (especially) of you hold the most powerful political position. This is an unfortunate, but natural virus that has caused a global pandemic. The virus doesn’t vote in elections nor does it care for our politics. We are all in this together and it’s up to all of us to take the necessary precautions to keep our family, friends, and communities safe.
  2. Does it matter what he said or what he did? Trump Derangement Syndrome (TDS) mandates that everything he does or says is absolutely and unequivocally wrong. Those suffering from TDS would never stop and ask themselves what would have been the correct or acceptable response because they know there couldn’t possibly be one. I guess I could see how putting all the worlds scary problems on one man can be convenient and comforting to some.
  3. USA 5184

    Do your crew just quit trying?

    If you have to ask, the problem is probably you. The touch of a light air guru is a skill not possessed by all. If you’re sailing a cruiser/racer with the sails strapped, constantly pinching, and complaining to your crew, it will not motivate them. Also, when a crew knows there is zero chance of being in the winners’ circle, what’s the point of trying super hard? The race then becomes a casual sail. It could just be the boat. Are you competitive in medium or heavy air? No boat can be the best in all conditions. If you just can’t cut it in the super light, why not join your crew in the relaxing day sail? You can’t win ‘em all. I believe owners spend lots of time and money on the boat and gear, but tend to neglect the most valuable asset: the crew. If you’re not going to win in light air, use it as training exercise. Try something the crew might not have that much experience like a letterbox drop or a windward takedown, or play around with crew weight to see what effect it has. Make it fun and you might learn something. Sailing is a wonderful sport in that you constantly learn something and I’m a firm believer of you get out what you put in.
  4. USA 5184

    Fantastic masts, and where to find them

    What kind of boat is it? Is the mast a replacement or is this a "I want to build a boat" dream? A solid wood mast on anything other then a tall ship is not going to work. I'm assuming a 22m mast is going on a boat 22m or less? Most wooden spars for pleasure boats are hollow and constructed of regular strips of lumber
  5. USA 5184

    Older J/30 galley update

    Its cored everywhere and there was no isolation on any through hulls or deck fittings, that will be your job to do As for the Keel sump area, I'm not sure. I had a 1996 J/24 and 1983 J/29 and I honestly don't remember if the sump area was solid glass or of it was cored or not.
  6. USA 5184

    Older J/30 galley update

    I personally think J Boats got the galley right on the older boats. I'm not quite sure why everyone is obsessed with the larger galley. I've never cooked a three course meal down below on any of my boats nor do I know anyone who ever has. All I need is a cooler for the beers and sandwiches and I'm all set. A big galley looks great at the boat show, but for practical use of the boat, I'd be happier with the extra quarter birth for sail/miscellaneous storage, or an extra bunk. I love J's, but they are fully cored hull and decks. Its a 40+ year old boat so it wont be perfect, but they are still usually pretty solid. Check the hull between the keel and the stuffing box. Worst case with the J/29/30 is water sometimes gets in from around the shaft and settles in the core in this relatively flat area. Other then that, the usual suspect: Bulkheads, stanchion mounts, rudder mounts, around deck hardware, etc. J/30's are a really nice all around cruiser/racer. If you end up with an older one, I wouldn't spend the extra money updating the galley. If the galley is super important, look at a Catalina 30 of the sale era. They aren't as fast or as good looking in my opinion, but they have one of the largest, best laid out interiors of 30'cruising sailboat from that era.
  7. USA 5184

    what is it?

    better question: WHY is it?
  8. USA 5184

    Help me out with some MORC History

    The front page picture that accompanies this post is misleading. On the front page, the post talks about wanting to find an early '60's, solid fiberglass, classic sailboat 24-27' from the beginning of the MORC era, but the picture that accompanies the post is of a late '80's Mariah 27 from the end of the MORC rule era...
  9. Yes, another one of these threads... The Requirements: $10,000 price tag Trailerable by F-150 one mile from yacht club to house. Boat will not travel on trailer; it’s just a cheap winter storage option with the advantage of being able to work on the boat in my own driveway. Some lower overhead utility lines (lower than the standard 13’6’ or whatever it is) but these boats will make it Lighter wind capable boat Comfortable enough to be used for day sailing no need to ever spend the night on the boat no need for a kitchen on the boat My Opinions: Easy to handle is better (easier than a 40’ IOR boat anyways) Faster is better Cabins are moldy caves for storage purposes Outboard engine is the preferred method of auxiliary propulsion These boats are all in the same size range and all have a base PHRF NE of 126. Looking for insight on build quality, sailing characters, comfort on deck, any quirks about the boats, etc. From Sailboatdata: J/27 Tartan P270 Impulse 26 LOA 27.50 26.83 26.00 LWL 23.50 23.42 21.58 Beam 8.50 8.50 8.42 Draft 4.90 4.92 4.58 Disp 3800 lbs 3800 lbs 2750 lbs Bal 1530 lbs 1762 lbs 1305 lbs Sail area 364 405 327 PHRF NE 126 126 126
  10. Huh, that Wilson-marquinez look like it should be a J/Boat. a J/83
  11. I'd have a wooden J-Class yacht built by Brooklin Boat Yard with modern construction technique a la Frank Gehry's Frogger.
  12. USA 5184

    Freedom Boats / Freedom 39 Ketch

    Gary Hoyt was the founder & designer of Freedom yachts until 1985 when he sold to TPI. After the sale Gary Mull designed the lion's share but the 39 is a Ron Holland design. This is why there are two very different types of Freedom's. The 28, 40, & 44 Cat Ketch boats were the earlier designs by Gary Hoyt and have a more classic look with plumb bows and flush decks while mull/Holland era (the 30, 36, 39, 40/40, & 45) models were more modern/regular looking boats. The earlier Hoyt boats are usually seen as better quality, heavier, and are seen to be the preferred choice for offshore sailing and liveaboards. The later TPI era boats are more mass market boats that were faster, but not meant for extended offshore use. That said, the TPI boats were still built very well and have identical hull and deck construction and similar inter woodwork as J Boats from the same era. Cored hull and deck can be a concern, but just like a J Boat, if it was maintained well it shouldn't be a problem. If you have not sailed a stayless rig before, they can take some getting used to and as mentioned before they are not the fastest in light air, but when the wind picks up, they are a joy to sail. They are almost effortless to sail and when a puff hits there is no need to let the sail out. The top of the rig will bend spilling out what it cant handle. The boat barely heels over any further, it just goes faster! I have a 20' Mull designed stayless rig boat and it is really a great boat. The fact it is so easy and forgiving to sail really makes it great boat. I have not sailed the Freedom 39 but I bet it shares the same characteristics.
  13. USA 5184

    Suggestions for activities in Newport RI

    Rent a J/22 and go sailing! https://www.sailnewport.org/adultSailboatRentals.html Then when you're up in Boston... go sailing again! http://www.bostonharborsailing.com/bhcharters.html
  14. I had an Irwin 37 and it was extremely poor quality. Looks like the competition models were a little nicer though. That said it is a 46 year old boat that is not worth much of anything even in good condition. Check the standing rigging, check the bulkheads, check the keel/hull joint, and check the rudder shaft. slap a $250 outboard motor mount on the transom, then find a $250 9.9 or 15hp on craigslist and call it a day! glass up all the through hulls and you'll have a worry free simple day-sailor
  15. USA 5184

    Bulkhead repair with G-10?

    I'm looking at a few J/27's as well as Evelyn 32-2's for sale in the northeast. Although I have not yet seen any of the boats, they are all 30+ year old racing sailboats and most likely all will need some deck and bulkhead attention. With the J/27 it would probably be replace the section of the bulkhead under the chain plates and outboard out the hull. On the Evelyn it would be easy to do a full bulkhead replacement. My question is: has anyone used G-10 to repair/replace a bulkhead? how has it held up and is it worth the crazy high cost? I found this nice write up on an Evelyn 32-2 bulkhead replacement: http://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/replacing-damaged-bulkheads/
  16. USA 5184

    Sad Sack 12?

    1905 Herreshoff yacht Doris was the first boat built to the Universal Rule (precursor to the J/class) and is just starting her restoration by Snediker Yacht Restoration. I Can't wait to see this beauty sailing again!
  17. You can have two boats or a wife, pick one
  18. You'll probably find the best deals with a private sale. Remember what a boat is listed for isn't necessarily the price. I've bought a lot of cheap boats that people are asking way too much for. The trick is to come with the amount of money you are willing to spend on the boat, then put it in their hands. I've never had anyone give it back. Seems to work pretty well. The last boat on the list is a 1987 (probably hull# 43xx-44xx) says "best offer, moving to the west coast". A distressed sale is the best kind of sale. Bring your truck, bring cash, be ready to haul it out right then and I bet you can get a nice starting out platform for cheap. https://sailingforums.com/threads/j24-for-sale-in-burlington-vermont.39288/ https://sailingforums.com/threads/j-24-71-for-sale-4000-or-best-offer.39256/ https://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/d/best-offerfor-sale/6685505889.html
  19. Wow that was a long one, but I did read the whole thing. The numbers I came up with were just quick educated guesses and a couple of google searches. I was looking for a trailer for a boat similar in size to a J/24 recently and that was pretty much the quote I got from Triad if I remember correctly. I got a quote from Sail-Trailers in Georgia for significantly cheaper, but it was painted steel which is fine for me but ended up finding a used Triad for $2,000. I do consider anything not North or Quantum "off brand" but that being said, I only buy "off brand" sails because I believe they are a better value. I don't think paying a premium for a name is worth it because I don't think North has all the answers in terms of performance. I think they are great sails, but if 90% of the boats on the starting line have them, they have a 90% chance that one of these boats will finish first. lots of guys out there making great sails. The difference between hull #1948 and 5321 is about 25+ years. 25 more years in the elements, 25 more winters, 25 more years of being ridden hard in a blow, 25 more years in the water, etc. I guess what I'm getting at is resale value. If both boats are $15,000, which one do you think will sell first? people buy 1980's boats because they can still compete and they can get into the class for not a lot of money. In the end, like I've said before, spending money on a boat makes no sense and should never be seen as an investment. I had my J/24 or 9 years and sold it for $10,000 less than I paid. The boat as 9 years old when I got it and 18 when I sold it and had not one suitable sail for racing so I think that was the best I could hope for. Do what makes you happy. That's what boating is all about right? Let me know if you'll ever need crew.
  20. There is a 1991 for sale in NJ that was a sailing school boat for $3,000 on the class website. will be around hull 48xx. Below is a quick estimate I put together. some things can be had cheaper, and you'll have yourself a nice boat in the end. But as with all boats, you will spend $20,000 and all the time you put into it and you'll end up with a $15,000 boat if you want to sell it. 3,000.00 Boat 4,500.00 Trailer (Triad, New) 4,500.00 Mast - complete 1,800.00 Boom - Complete 5,500.00 Sails (complete set - off brand, NOT North or Quantum, etc.) 1,500.00 repair costs (including deck core replacement, fiberglass, epoxy, topside paint, bottom fairing, etc. NOT including any labor cost) 1,000.00 carbon fiber spinn pole 500.00 all lines replaced (cheap lines) 1,500.00 everything else (lifeline replacement, every block that needs to be replaced, winches to be rebuilt or replaced, etc) 23,800.00
  21. Currently, the J/24 class seems to have two schools of thought. 1. - the guy who's serious about winning will not even consider a boat below hull 5000. Advantages being the keel is max forward, rudder is good, mast is good, hull is solid, v-birth is water tight, full aft water tight bulkhead as well, PVC rails - no wood anywhere (except the teak and holly cabin sole if you splurge for that option), no settee locker in the cockpit, clean white crisp hull. Nothing to do but a new set of sails, some general tweaking, and you're off to the races! Trailer is most likely road worthy as well. 2. - The guy whos looking for the lowest hull number he can find. These are the people who are going to spend just as much money as the 5000+ hull guys did for a 41 year old boat. My only thinking behind this is they're just trying to prove a point, they're trying to prove that they can still win with 40+ year old boat. It seems to me that your mind is already made up and I wish you good luck. How long have you been in the class? I encourage you to get a ride on some 5000+ hull boats and see how they ride. The stiffness of the hull won't guarantee a win, but it certainly makes it easier. Just look at lasers. Anything under hull 200,000 isn't seen as competitive at the top levels even though it might look fine because its just not as stiff as it used to be. Just like Lasers, J/24 are all mostly ridden pretty hard. I've seen a 2012 J/24 in NY for $20,000. I'm sure the mast hasn't been molested too bad. Again, like I said before: some people like sailing, some people like tinkering. Fixing up an old boat will be a labor of love and satisfying if your kids are helping and it is an activity you can share with them, but don't expect to be sailing anytime soon and please don't think you will be saving money. Even when you calculate your labor for free, it usually still comes out upside down if the boat really needs every little thing.
  22. Honest advice: Too expensive and too many man hours. Fiberglass, epoxy, balsa, mast, all standing and running rigging, etc. etc. etc. its going to add up plus whatever your time is worth. There are 5,500+ of these boats out there. because of that a race ready one can be had for a very reasonable price. At the end of the day, you have to decide whether you're a guy who likes sailing or a guy who likes working on boats. If you do the work, you can end up with a nice race ready boat, but it WILL end up costing you more money than a newer race ready boat that was built worth no vermiculite in the sump and the newer style hatches. Just my $0.02. I looked at a bunch of older J/24's before buying a 1996. Had the boat for 9 years. Did a two day regatta in big air and rough seas with an inexperienced crew. They didn't come back for the second day so I crewed on another boat from the early '80's that was in decent shape. Same conditions as the day before. I couldn't believe how different the two boats felt. my boat was tight as a drum while the early '80's boat felt like a wet noodle flexing over waves.
  23. Here in my neck of the woods (Branford, CT) in the Thimble Islands, you also will not find a single cleat but rather a post at the corner of each float to which you tie a clove hitch. Everyone swears by this docking system and how much better they are than a cleat. "you can stub your toe on a cleat" seems to be the popular answer to why they don't have a cleat on their dock. Every summer it is a common occurrence to see an unattended Boston Whaler lazily drifting around with the tide followed by someone in a kayak chasing it with an annoyed/angry look on their face.
  24. USA 5184

    Front Page - scotw

    Donald Trump himself would find this in poor taste and not post it on his twitter feed.