• Announcements

    • Zapata

      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Somebody Else

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

53 Kiss-ass

About Somebody Else

  • Rank
  • Birthday March 10

Profile Information

  • Location
    PNW, ex-SoCal

Recent Profile Visitors

12,453 profile views
  1. Relative Sailboat Builders Quality

    Most of the '60s-'70s west coast USA boats were of similar build quality, give or take a few details. I think Cal, Islander, Ericson, Ranger are more-or-less equivalent. The other west coast builders lined up a fair bit behind those. My complaint with Catalinas of that era was that no consideration was made toward maintenance or replacing systems as they aged. Plumbing and electrical were buried behind inaccessible interior components. A fairly serious factor that determined quality was the 1973 Arab Oil Crisis and how that effected the quality of polyester resin. As the old formulations were disappearing from the supply chain, providers were scrambling to formulate new polyesters which used less petroleum. The early attempts were pretty bad and led to an entire generation of builds which were plagued by lamination issues and blistering. I am not a fan of tabbing in bulkheads as you are depending on a strictly glue joint which, depending on how long the hull sat before the bulkheads were tabbed in, was most likely a secondary bond as the main hull laminate was frequently fully cured by the time it got its bulkheads. When a builder had a successful high-volume production run, the bonds got better because the bulkheads were tabbed into gelated but not fully cured resin. That said, polyester resin makes a worse glue than epoxy so if glue is all that's holding the bulkhead in, use epoxy. Another issue in the built-for-a-price plastic classics is how the interior woodwork was assembled. Except for the higher-end builds, the most common glue used in interior joinery was cheap PVA (in the USA, we'd call it Elmer's Glue) which is not suitable for assemblies subject to water exposure. But PVA glues are cheap and they set up quickly so production can proceed right along. Visible pieces were plywood joined by rabbeted solid wood corner posts and less cosmetic joints were just lapped plywood backed by a fir cleat. The directions given to the woodworkers was, "Don't spend any time on it; just slap it on and trim it off." Most joints were white PVA glue clamped together with mild steel staples. The better joints used ss screws for clamps and these were usually counter-bored and bunged. After the glue dissolved away or turned brittle, the only thing holding the panels together would be the screws or [shudder] the steel staples which, of course, eventually rusted away. That these less-than-ideal techniques worked for so long can be mostly credited with over-kill shade-tree engineering. Much of he plastic classics have huge areas way over-built for what is required locally but it is easier to just make everything uniform than to tailor the strength to the requirements of local areas. Notable exceptions to this would be the hull lamination schedule in the vicinity of the keel root where coring was left out and extra fiber laminations were used.
  2. Radio controlled sailing

    Interesting! Let us know! I threw out all my Northwind stuff during a period of decluttering. I may have kept the nice carbon mast I built out of a golf club shaft, complete with carbon spreaders... Check out my over-kill adjustable mast step:
  3. Radio controlled sailing

    Model boats require specialized tools!
  4. Radio controlled sailing

    I took the DF95 to Bob's but didn't launch -- too chilly! We talked about the hull a bit -- how it's quite chesty with a fairly large prismatic coefficient. I haven't had it out in anything over about 10 knots of wind, but it exhibited zero tendency to nose-dive downwind. My theory on the Northwind is that it, at one time, had a longer waterline but didn't balance well under sail. Look how rounded and blunt it is at the bow. Like they just whacked off an angled piece of the stem and faired it in as simply as possible.
  5. Radio controlled sailing

    Hi Will. We met at Betts a couple of times last year when I was tagging along with Perry. My name's Scott. I'm old like Bob. He mentioned you might be interested in coming back to 'Cortes? Is that right? If so, there will be two DragonFlite 95 here! There's a fleet in Sequim, I believe, but that's at least 2 hours away. Funny, my first RC boat was a Northwind! I was not very impressed with that but this DF95 has got such a nicer hull! Anyway, as a designer, you probably appreciate how real life boats have been catching up to RC boats in design. Modern materials are now able to handle the scaled-up loads that here-to-fore only models could deal with, particularly with foils/ballast. I'm taking my boat down to the Perry's for St Patrick's Day dinner tomorrow. I don't know if I can launch off the back yard...
  6. Best Race Committee Boats

    The ideal race committee boat would have: A good signal-flag mast or masts that allows competitors to view all signals 360-degrees around the boat. A course-display system (letters and numbers in holders is nice) which is likewise visible from 360-degrees around the boat. Both signal flags and course identifiers need to be quickly and easily and safely operated from as secure a cockpit as is possible. I've seen several set-ups where placing the course info was a risky endeavor. Should not roll excessively. Power catamarans can be a decent choice for this. Should be set-up for easily towing dinghies or other engineless boats, whether it be a common part of RC duty or only in emergencies. Should have shelter for RC members in foul weather. Communications equipment for multiple purposes including transmission of results to the clubhouse or the internet. Adequate and easy-to-operate ground tackle. On that 3-tiered wedding cake above, the only signal I can see is the "2" pennant.
  7. Sailing around the world in a San Juan 24

    Many of them sell at launch time. The act of building, having a project, a story, was more important and, ultimately, safer than actually sailing somewhere. Decades ago I read at least two (maybe 3 or 4) of Arthur Piver's [short] books. They were quite amusing. Full of anecdotes about noobs that slapped together their tri with the cheapest possible materials and components, read Piver's minimalist "Noon Position", and shoved off with a Davis plastic sextant or, Piver's favorite, clunky Air Force surplus artificial-horizon sextant. Many of these first-timers were so stoked to not have died that they simply rammed their boat onto the first bit of land they saw. Just piled it onto the first beach or reef they came across. Boat destroyed, everything lost, and it was back to driving a linen truck in Nebraska with a few good stories to tell.
  8. Radio controlled sailing

    I was very pleased with my first sail of the DragonFlite 95! Points well and goes fast downwind. Fine tuning sail trim ashore is a bit delicate with those clumsy bowsies but I'm sure I'll get better at it with experience.
  9. Radio controlled sailing

    My DragonFlite 95 is going for its first sail today!
  10. How to rid spinnaker on Santana 30/30 pc

    I like using a short-sheet strop with hooks or shackles at both ends for the jib/genoa when setting on boats under, say, 33-feet. Not only does it free a winch, but it effectively frees up a crew member and, more importantly, a crew member's brain. I like a strop length that will sheet the genoa a little freer than beam reach. It doesn't need to be perfect; it's only for a few seconds. Just so long as it doesn't choke off air flow. A little too loose is probably better than too strapped. I'm also a big believer in ratchet blocks for the spinnaker. On my SC27 I had ratchets (with on/off switches) both at the aft sheet leads and at the cockpit as turning blocks. By switching on/off various ratchets, I could have zero, 90-degrees, 180-degrees, or 270-degrees of ratchet holding power. This was enough for most conditions to go winch-free. When winches were needed, the ratchets provided enough holding power when transitioning between various winches. I liked the luxury of all the options that arrangement opened up. I'm of the opinion that deck layout is crucial to good performance. If crew needs to move away from their optimum positions to make adjustments, the adjustments don't get made as frequently as they should be, if at all. I like the control arrangements on Stars and Farr 40s.
  11. Santana 30/30 weatherhelm

    Also, starting at 10 knots TWS, you're going to want a few linebackers on the rail. The 30/30 tends toward being a light-air boat.
  12. Can someone explain this boat construction to me?

    The boat I was asking about--the one on the spindly jack stands--is about 22' long.
  13. Jerome Rand solo circumnavigation in a Westsail 32

    So this Jerome Rand is the polar opposite of Rimas: mechanically proficient, not afraid or too proud to break a sweat, actually accomplishes what he says he's going to do, doesn't brag about it, and does it on his own nickel. About the only similarity is the potential top speed of their boats!
  14. This photo baffles me. The size of the planks look like carvel construction but there aren't any frames. Possibly strip plank taken off a male mold but why are the strips so wide? Why is there no shear clamp or keel timber? The fact that the hull is supported by four jack stands instead of a stronger structure suggests it's a restoration and not a new build but the fact that nothing remains of the frames or interior seems weird. The entire shape is being fine tuned with a couple of cross braces jammed in at the shear? Does anybody have an explanation of this boat?
  15. what was it?

    What on earth prompted you to say that? You need to cite one single attribute of that photo that makes you think Cal 40. I'm only asking for one.