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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About hump101

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  • Location
    Brittany, France
  • Interests
    Naval Architecture structural engineering, speedsailing, offshore racing
  1. I was being facetious, sort of.....but the reality is that match racing is a ridiculous construct at the best of times in anything but absolutely identical boats, and the AC is the proof of that, with the only decent races occurring in mature classes when the performance differentials are basically zero. However, if you handicap the leading boat, then it becomes a game of chess to see who can be the last leader in each race. That would be real skill. Personally, I'm only interested in the technical developments in any case, hence my flippancy.
  2. To achieve "good" match racing it doesn't matter what the boats are like, or how fast they are, it only requires that the boat behind has a speed advantage. So why not instigate an F1 DRS type system in which the leading boat is slowed by an RO-controlled device that increases drag by a fixed proportion, then you'll get match racing and can still have spectacular boats?
  3. Fair my hull's barrier coat "bumps" with filler? Or?

    Reiterate what was said above, remove the lumps, don't fill. One thing to add, when you roller on the new coat, drag it out with a cut section of roller, which will remove all the roller marks, any air in the layer, and leave it much smoother. It needs to be dragged immediately after rolling, so a two person job.
  4. Hard vs soft dinghy

    I've also heard some horror stories, but my 340 is 16 years old now and still holds air (seeps a bit of water in around the edge of the hull, though that's our fault for dragging it over barnacles once). I don't know the age of the 290 as it came with another boat, but it needs pumping twice a day. Nothing has detached off either, yet, but they are both kept under covers so out of sunlight.
  5. Hard vs soft dinghy

    That is a completely different boat to mine, a 2001 340 Bombard, which I'm pretty sure has a single skin bottom and a separate transom so the whole boat can fold down into the bottom when deflated. It only has bungee points on the top of the tubes, hence the difficulty to get the tank in tight so it can't bounce. I'm away for a few weeks, will upload a photo when I get back.
  6. Hard vs soft dinghy

    I had mine bungee'd into the boat inside a plastic bucket, but it still flipped, and like an idiot I hadn't closed the vent. I've never had any water inside the hull, didn't realise it was hollow? There's no bung in mine so I'm pretty sure it isn't. Is yours the folding transom version?
  7. Hard vs soft dinghy

    Due to various legacy boats, I have a Bombard 340 with a 10hp, a Bombard 290 with a 2.3hp, and two Avon Redcrests. The 340 is a RIB, and rows perfectly adequately as well as doing 13kts on the plane with 250kg on board, but the boat I use the most is one of the Redcrests, which paddles easily, carries 4 at a pinch, and I can lift it up on one arm and carry it onto the tramp or onto the car roof. I can put the 2.3hp on it, but haven't bothered yet. I try to avoid long commutes, but if I have to I use the 340. The 290 is the worst of both worlds, too heavy to lift around, too slow to do a long distance, hopeless to row, no room inside. I've tried towing the 340, but above 15kts it bounces so much that the fuel tank flipped and spilt fuel, so I won't be doing that again. I lift it onboard using the boom and the topping lift, plenty of room on the tramps for such a little boat, but a pain compared to the Redcrest. I have a rigid hull boat nearly ready, but not sure how it will go as a tender. We'll see......
  8. DIY Wing Mast Questions

    Having the sail cut flat does not mean it has to set flat, it can still curve conically or cylindrically, and this, combines with a rotating wing mast, allows a lovely range of shapes to be achieved with variable maximum draft location by adjusting down and out hauls, and sheets. This is particularly effective for high aspect ratio rigs.
  9. Recommendations for first time boat build.

    I built a 12m x 5m power catamaran back when I was young and single. It took 6 months to build the hulls, but 2.5 years to finish, with a total of 8 man-years of labour in it. I bought my second yacht.
  10. Picked up my first cat

    I would spend as little as possible on the boat and get out sailing. Once you've sailed it a bit you'll know better where to invest your money. Borrow some standing rigging off something a bit shorter, and lash the missing length, and just sail it first. You don't want to buy new synthetic rigging and have the beam collapse first sail. It is an old boat, remember.
  11. Picked up my first cat

    The bows are fine but they are also long and relatively high freeboard, so you'll find it more forgiving than you would expect compared to a H16 or similar. Because it is light and fine it accelerates rapidly, so again can be pushed harder than you might expect. Obviously in a big blow you'll need to depower downwind, but you'll quickly get the measure of when and how much.
  12. Picked up my first cat

    The hulls are more pitch sensitive than a modern hull, which has less rocker and a flatter, wider bottom at the stern, so can be pushed harder downwind. We buried the bows up to the beams regularly on the Unicorn, especially 3-up, and never pitchpoled or capsized, but once the foredeck is under it slams the brakes on whereas a modern hull with curved deck will drive on through and keep trucking. Sailing 1-up, the bow burying is easy to control and not a problem, unlike the Hobies of that era. The beauty of the Unicorn is that it is so much lighter than other contemporary cats (Hobies, etc.). This equals weaker, but mine was stiff enough and never had any structural issues, despite being overloaded most of the time. The light weight meant we could transport it on the roofrack of our 4x4 fully assembled, and getting it up there was a two person lift, whereas the Hobie that replaced it needed rollers to do the same, and a double hernia!
  13. Picked up my first cat

    I had Unicorn K35 back in the late 70's/early 80's. They don't sail like a modern cat, at that vintage, but perfectly respectable and will beat a H16 or H18 around a race course, as a comparison, but not an F18 or A cat. Mine had the original 5 batten main and a sliding seat, which was great fun but slow compared to the trapeze in transitions. We regularly fun-sailed with 3 on it, and it can just about cope, so a good boat to have fun with others.
  14. Making leeway

    Easy check for current is to tack and look at the numbers.
  15. Making leeway

    Looks like you had 1 kt of current at 303 degrees? Are there local current eddies in the area?