scaprat

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  1. scaprat

    Taming a nervous NKE auto pilot

    The gyro is not active if your gain is lower than 4. Quote from the Gyrographic manual: Is counter rudder sto to "AUTO"? What speed coefficient were you testing with?
  2. scaprat

    Taming a nervous NKE auto pilot

    Hi Geert, you really need to read the manual of your NKE Gyropilot but here is the quick rundown (I've sailed a Pogo2 for years, now a Pogo3): 1. Gain The gain (you control it from the autopilot page where it shows you your current course) should be as low as possible. It basically defines how often the pilot will try to correct the course but it is inverse. Like if the gain is 3, it will attempt up to 3 corrections per second. If it is set to 5, it will be 5 per second (it is not exactly this formula, but you get the point). Important: With a gain of 4 or higher, the Gyropilot will use the internal gyro to outsteer the waves. With a gain of 3 or less, it will not activate the gyro. As a good starting point, start with 3. 2. Counter-Rudder You can set this to the same range as gain or you can leave it at "Auto". In most situations you can leave it on "Auto" unless you are in heavy weather going downwind with the spinnaker with big waves. Then you may want to go Gain+2. For now, start with "Auto". 3. Speed-Coefficient This tells the autopilot how reactive you think your boat is (or how effective rudder changes are). A good rule of thumb is to set this to 1-1,5 times your average speed. On the mini, above 10 knots we need to set it to 2-3 times the speed but that is only on newer designs. A pogo 8.50 will probably behave roughly like a Pogo 2 so 1 to 1,5 times your speed should be good. You are referring to upwind so I guess try with a coefficient of 6-8 for now. These are your Autopilot settings. Now to your wind damping. If assume you don't have a HR sensor but the regular one (based on the age of the boat). In this case, I would recommend to set the damping to 4 or 5. Don't go higher than that. In very light winds it will pay to go down with the damping but then also make sure to reduce the rudder coefficient or you will lose a lot of speed because of all the rudder movements. The compass damping of 20 seems a bit high to me. The highest we go in the mini is 15 I think. Also, make sure you have calibrated your compass, takes 10 minutes but is worth the time. Your video does not match your description from my perspective. In your video, we see a Gain of 1, a pretty good wind angle steering and next to no rudder movements. That already looks fairly good to me. But maybe we just don't hear the pilot working all the time because of the talk on the vhf. Since the movements are small and the gain is low, my assumption is that your rudder coefficient is off, causing the pilot to not get the response from the boat it expects, causing it to keep correcting. Let us know if this helped!
  3. Totally agree with you. All a matter of what you use it for I think. I have an offshore-going boat that does have exactly this setup: super light aero cable and a small (50g) LED light in the mast top. This solar-powered light is for a small inshore boat without power on board. And for that purpose, I think it's pretty much perfect. We keep the remote inside the boat, so it's protected from the elements.
  4. What works for me to avoid the drum spinning is this: The furler is clipped into a dyneema loop that runs around the pole. The tackline snaps onto the loop, thus allowing you to pull the furler forwards but also backwards, if you ever needed to. If you have a bobstay, that should stop the loop from sliding off the pole at the front, if you don't, you can also clip your tackline into both, the loop and your furler. For easing the sheet slowly, what works for me (in other situations where I need a line to run out with just a tiny bit of friction) is to drill two holes into a tennis ball and then cut it half open so you can run the line through the ball. Before furling, put the tennis ball on the sheet and move it right in front of a turning block. Now, when you take the sheet of the winch, it will ease slowly. You can play with the size of the hole in the tennis ball to control the amount of friction. I use it to control the spi halyard when dousing the asymmetric in heavy winds. Works a treat.
  5. I have the version with just solar and it works perfectly. Recharges during the day, even on cloudy days. Can run it through an entire spring night (i.e. 12h?) without any issues. Not sure you even need the wind option. The only thing to keep in mind is to put it somewhere with sunlight for the winter. Not sure the battery would survive an entire winter without deep-discharging. Oh, and the remote does not feel really waterproof, I keep it inside the boat - would not risk exposing it to water.
  6. scaprat

    gyro autopilot compas heading

    That depends on what brand of autopilot you have. NKE for example does not engage the Gyro unless you have a gain > 3.