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      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About Locus

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  • Birthday December 8

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Interests
    505 Sailing

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  1. Are you looking for a double spiro fitting or the Waterrat twin pole fitting. The latter is better and cheaper. PVG may have one or can get one plus the pole ends. I want to say it was around $600 for both. (Don't hold me to that I bought the carbon poles at the same time and the bill was about $900.
  2. Vang needs the above pin as the starting point on the boom. There should be some sort of tackle for the vang itself that connects to the bail on the lower mast and then is generally lead to the sides near where the helm sits. The tackle may be cascading as shown in the attached image, or multi purchase blocks, doubles or triples. You do need some sort of vang in place to properly sail that boat even if you dont adjust it. Never seen a step like that. Most have holes on the sides that hold a bolt and wedge to keep the mast in the proper fore/aft orientation. As stated able rig holds the step down. Device below the deck is probably the forestay adjustment. Is there a block at the bow to lead the forestay underdeck and then to that lever? Sometimes non racing people remove that and go to a single attachment at the bow since its easier to rig.
  3. never seen a J33 with a hydraulic backstay? 35 yes but most 33's i have seen are cascade. Also most 30'-33' boats i have sailed on (105 the exception) have had cascades not hydraulics. Second or third the checkstays being the primary adjuster on the J-35. Not enough time on a 33, but as they are pretty much the same boat I suspect the same rules apply
  4. Yes that is the best looking Tasar I have seen. Most are puke yellow or faded baby blue.
  5. In the NW most of our races are reverse start now. So scratch means passing the slower boats anyway.
  6. yep there are at least 6. Although one of those boats is now for sale. Most use mid boom 4:1 but a few are transom 1:1. Smashing Pumpkins has transom 3:1 and i think she can drop the upper block and go 1:1 transom. Mine came rigged for both, former female driver. She liked the transom for ight air, but tacking with it can be difficult (extension gets caught in bridle) and they would change to mid boom in wind over 12 or someting like that. I find that in a blow my transom can get heavy to control. Vang helps but still takes some muscle. I have sailed mid boom and they are much easier in higher wind but require much more rope to move. So in puffy conditions lots more movement but less load. I am typically moving the sheet 4-6" in and out when overpowered much more than that on a regular basis, we rake and power down. since I am hiked at that point I use my body to pull rather than my arms since the movement is small. Mid boom you have to pull a 2' of rope and let 2' off to get 6' of boom out. I find that tiring
  7. Seems like the consensus is NO on the 505, but not Yes on the 420. All of us experienced sailors have negative things to say about the boat based on our current experience. The OP does NOT have that lens and therefore has no expectations about the boat other than to learn to sail. Yes they are too big, yes its slow and hard to sail in breeze because of weight etc. BUT it potentially offers training on:basic sailing, trapeze, spinnaker. Depending on how its rigged of course. All of these skills transfer to more high performance boats not just the 505. So since the OP only offered a choice between a 420 and 505 I will have to recommend the 420 depending on condition etc. Also if the 505 is really cheaper what condition/vintage is it. Should almost always be more $ since its more boat
  8. That was pretty much my point. IF you can sail in less than 10knots the 505 is very easy to sail and very safe. 10-15 If willing to trap is also pretty easy and safe. Above 15 it gets to be a handful and needs experience. So if one can guarantee less than 10k of breeze during your use of the boat than it works. Sounds like that is not really true. I did note SA was the location and it has a reputation for being breezy and factored that into my opinion. I learned to sail on a Sunfish and when I was 10 (110lbs) was convinced I could sail a laser in 15k of breeze. I learned quickly I was wrong. On a laser that is not dangerous, but a 505 can be difficult to right in breeze and has all sorts of things to go wrong and get people in trouble.
  9. We used 2x12 cedar cut to fit the tanks and deck of the 470 and glued carpet to them The top was flat except for the notches for the spars and 470 mast. We also had strap buckles on the top to strap it to the boat below. 470 was strapped to the trailer independently
  10. I agree. As another larger sailor the 420 is very cramped. (6'5 225lbs) and does not really get going till 15k of breese. 505 will be a good boat for your size and what everyone else said is also true. Not quite an F1 but think powerfull sports car with limited throttle control. So a couple of other things if you want to go down that path. Heaver and or taller person should crew, Make sure that they are confrotable in the trap. As stated you can sail without it but in >12 it is difficult and not really fun. I the boat is older make sure the tanks are water tight and that the boat does not leak through the bailers scuppers etc. Capsizing and discovering the boat is partially sinking is also not fun. (Same with the 420) Take the boat out in 5k and flip it in deep water. Make sure both of you can right the boat and get back in. I also second contacting the local fleet and getting a ride/drive to see if you like it with someone experienced. finally all the hull numbers are listed on the 505 website with some history. Look up the number to see how old the boat is and what the construction materials are. That will give you some idea of the durability. Generally early boats bendy and fragile. Middle boats sturdy and stiff. Later boats somewhat fragile and stiff. http://www.int505.org/history/test-item/sail-nos-0-to-6999 (Probably here) http://www.int505.org/history/test-item/sail-nos-7000-to-9000
  11. When i was a kid we put our laser on top of a 470. Made 2 wood bunks that held the laser, but end of the 470 mast and the laser spars. Later we ended up putting hte laser spars on the van and adjusting the bunks so the laser was closer to center. Made the trailer track better. Couple key points. We only strapped the bunks to the lower boat, not the trailer. that prevented the laser from compressing the 470 tanks too much. Front bunk in the mast partners (strong) rear bunk near the traveler and over the 470 bunk. This made sure no bending was occuring. Front bunk was complex due to the splash rail in the 470 rear was just the shape of the tanks with padding. We added a vertial to drop through the partners and that kept things true side to side. No since a 420 is shorter you may end up bow to bow with the laser. We had the laser bow near the 470 (1' back or so) and the stern was inside the 470 transom a bit. the above soluition may work as well depending on how much you can weld and how much you like your 420.
  12. Why no tour events west of the Mississippi? Seems like they are missing a large group of sailors. But Aeros are already taking over from the lasers here. Not sure a third would have any uptake. Really its not about the boat as much as its about the community and number of boats racing
  13. We did it on a Soverel for years. Works well. We started with outside jibes but with the 7/8 fractional we found that insides worked well. We did the following 1. Ease guy 2. drop pole to deck 3. jibe inside 4. wait for jibe to finish 5. reset pole 6 pole back as needed. The trick is not to worry about the pole during or immediately after the jibe. The chute flies just fine off the bow and unless you have a 6' penalty pole the difference for a few minutes will be negligible. We also found the sail did well in more downwind situations with the pole back to about 45. After that performance dropped below what we got on the sym.
  14. congrats Tyson on finising the Blakely Rock race. That was a tough race but you made it all the way and looks like you had a good showing.
  15. Not sure how you have your 6: rigged, but if you use separate blocks you can make one detachable so it slides up to one of the other blocks and you have a 4:1 light air release it, heaver air use it. My sons opti was that way, we had two blocks back to back on the floor, for a 3:1, release one and it was 2:1. So instead of a fiddle, triple or double on the deck or trunk, use two sepearte blocks one connected to the becket of the other. You can remove the pin and lose 2 purchases in lighter air. You could also consider staying 4:1 and adding a fine tune 4:1 at the end making 16:1 on the fine. Easier to hold but the primary still runs well. Also, second what people said about rope. Good cover double braid is easier to hold than dyneema. Rooster braid is also easy to hold