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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

ScowLover

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About ScowLover

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  • Birthday 01/11/1982

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    Wisconsin

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  1. I wouldn't ask this here if it wasn't for a boat that supports sailing, but I need to solve a problem. I just overhauled the RC boat at our club. Because I know my crowd, I have LOTS of cup holders (for water, really). Now the issue. When it rains, they fill with water and will soon become a slimy mess. I need a drain fitting to drain the cup holders through a hose. Unfortunately, if I drill a hole in the molded-in console cup holders, it will drain water onto the electrical distribution. The others will drain onto stored PFDs and that wouldn't be ideal. So, I need a hose. Who knows which fitting I should use to route the water away from the electrical distribution? I've been through McMaster and can't seem to find something that fits the bill. I'm thinking a simple press in fitting with a barbed connection should be about $0.25, but I can't seem to identify a source. The Race Committee volunteers thank you.
  2. I was involved in shipping a C Scow mast via UShip. That worked well. The guy had a long enclosed trailer. I helped him load it and explained the ways it was fragile. He was totally receptive and delivered it intact.
  3. Just do this:
  4. I put some salsa on my C Scow mainsheet before a fairly large regatta. Fortunately, it waited until the last leeward mark to rats nest so hard in the ratchet block that my crew had to dive in with a knife. When we finished the race, we had 8 pieces of mainsheet and just enough left in the system to go upwind, but not downwind back to the club until we rigged it 1:1 and got about 60 degrees of ease. Never again!
  5. I change lots of numbers. I have gone away from acetone and started using denatured alcohol. It works a little slower, but it will often let the adhesive "roll into a ball" as you scrub with paper towel. It also doesn't overwhelm you with fumes outside. Start by peeling the old numbers off. Lay paper towel over the adhesive and soak with denatured alcohol for a few minutes. Next, wet a paper towel or use one of the "soaking paper towels" and start wiping from an edge toward center. Remove as much adhesive as you can. There should be none visible. Install your new numbers. Dust the area with baby powder. That will clog up any remaining adhesive with white so it doesn't become a brown, dirty area.
  6. Are you sure all of the spacers are present and orientation of gears is correct?
  7. This may have the same hole pattern if you measure: http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5158&taxid=390
  8. I'll answer that as someone who did the same type of retail as WestCoast. Each manufacturer "lists" prices. They look at their "hard" cost and add their margin target. Frankly, every boat part comes to an uneven number, even the boat itself. If you round up to the nearest dollar, you run the risk of being the higher price in a google search and people won't buy from you.
  9. I got stopped in Michigan once pulling a load of Lasers. I was an easy target with 4 high, 2 strapped to the sides of the trailer, and 2 on the roof. The cop got out plumb bobs, hung them from the trailer's wide points to the road, got another cop there, and measured between the points on the plumb bobs. It turned out that the strap buckles made me 1" over wide. He let me adjust the straps so the buckles weren't the wide point and measured again. I came in EXACTLY 8'6" wide. He let me slide, but it took a couple hours on the side of the road. I've also been stopped pulling an enclosed trailer with the company name and no plate/dot numbers/logs etc. That Indiana trooper threatened me with about $12k in fines, impound, and license restrictions. I truly was not playing dumb and was dumb not knowing that the company name on the trailer put me into commercial status. That required a plate, which isn't normally required in Wisconsin. I got a full safety inspection, which took more than an hour. In the end, he wrote me all warnings, but I had to get DOT numbers, a DOT medical clearance, and submit 14 days of logs for inspection within 30 days. I very much have the impression that if anything had failed the safety inspection, I would have been quite hosed. I had everything working and perfect maintenance on all of my stuff. I didn't have any of the commercial safety triangles, first aid kit, flares, or other things required by commercial, but I did have perfect lights, electric brakes, good safety chains, pin in the coupler. Now that I'm older, smarter, and have a lot more to lose, I would go through a permit group and make sure I am good. The hassles simply aren't worth it.
  10. One constant "battle" in sailing is "can you" vs "should you" as RC. This is an area where the club or association can have thoughtful discussion. In our local association, we have a group that reviews NORs and SIs. It isn't uncommon for RC to want to change a rule or rules. I am probably the most vocal voice for sailors on that committee. In the past 5 years or so, we have eliminated a lot of "changed rules" because they don't benefit sailors. For instance, our association used to have numerous references to breaking a rule resulting in DSQ without a hearing. That isn't friendly to sailors because you have no opportunity to argue that you didn't break that rule or were exonerated by another action (think hitting a mark because you weren't given room). Some Juries (usually the same RC) would deny a hearing based on "will be disqualified without a hearing." Fortunately, sailors voiced their unanimous opinion that this language should be purged. While some RC members pushed back because they hate sitting through hearings, our association decided to honor the sailors requests to lose that language. Fortunately, we all agree in principle that we should keep the rules as close to the rule book as possible unless there is a compelling reason for a change. Changing the tie breaker procedure has no compelling reason for change in our eyes. Now, the issue comes that local clubs set their own SIs. I sit on our yacht club board of directors and plenty of people want antiquated rules in the SIs. For instance, it is currently being argued that we shouldn't use current World Sailing course designations. This year, that means switching from W to WA when designating a course. Apparently writing the A on a white board is too much burden for RC crews or some such nonsense. I'm not sure where we will land, but I clearly fall in the camp of using the standard method specified by World Sailing. Having an association that uses that helps the argument to stick with the "parent" interpretation, but it sure doesn't end the argument. Usually, these changes fall into an area where someone thinks they know better than World Sailing for varied reasons. Emotions are often tied to the reasoning. It is important to make sure that the people you choose as RC and those who write the SIs share your common goals. If not, you will have battles that detract from everyone's fun.
  11. It is a 2002 C Scow. Interestingly, I found a puddle under the boat after it sat in the garage for a few days. I tracked it to a hairline crack at the end of one of the board slots. I drilled a few holes through the outside skin surrounding the board slots and they all dripped for a couple weeks. I think that means I have found *some* of the problem. Work continues, but I have also removed about 20 pounds of soaked flotation foam from the bow. That will be replaced with cubitainers. This boat was ridden hard and put away wet (into an envelope cover whenever it wasn't at a regatta). To be clear, I knew the issue when I bought it and I place no blame on the manufacturer. I took the chance that this project will come out with a boat worthy of racing at the top level. It did win Nationals this year, even though it was heavy. I was second in my boat at the other major event of the year. Before I did any work, this boat felt faster and put up better boat speed than my boat in light air with my sails, my mast, and my crew.
  12. Are you using Fusion 360 for all your CAM? How's it working out? It was a little touch and go in the beginning as the tool library features were pretty limited, but now they have really worked it out, Im VERY happy with it. The simulation feature works great especially when you turn the model on and off - lets you see where you something wasn't working out. Also allows you to model the vice and jaws for custom soft jaws for weird work holding - something really nice if complicated parts are hard to hold. We don't do 5 axis machining - not enough demand and really expensive machines, vices, etc. Couldn't tell you if Fusion is the solution for that or not. We use it on our CNC mill, router and lathes - actually had a custom post written to streamline the "Design to Gcode to chips" process. Bam Miller Also of note, Fusion generally has a "Black Friday" special that gives you a year of subscription (license) for under $50.
  13. I certainly get that. If I need to do some reconstruction, I am not averse to doing some core replacement. I would guess that some of the weight is in flotation foam as well. This boat is currently FAST even though it is heavy. I would just prefer to make it faster.
  14. Thank you, do you have any tips on a moisture meter to buy?
  15. I am taking on a project scow with moisture in the core. If I can get some weight out of the boat, it will be a good racing boat for me. If not, then I got it cheap enough that I can keep the parts and scrap the hull. So, what does the collective knowledge say about drying out foam core. I have a heated garage committed to this project for the winter. I'd rather not replace the core and re-skin it if I can help it. The boat is plenty fast as it sits overweight, but weight is weight, so I'd like to do better. It sits about 40 pounds over the minimum weight at 690 all up right now. What I'm thinking is to drill some holes in the underside of the hull, maybe 3/16" holes in a 6" grid then put a vacuum pump on it with a water separator in the vacuum line. If I move the vacuum cup around to the various holes, I suck water out progressively. At the end, I patch the small holes. Am I nuts? Is there another way I should be tackling this problem?