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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

ScowLover

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About ScowLover

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  • Birthday 01/11/1982

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  1. I have used G-flex to patch up Hobie Kayaks and boats on numerous occasions. Generally, Hobie was so good with warranty that a replacement hull was on the way shortly after the damage occured, but the G-Flex repair kept customers on the water until a replacement arrived. Using the "flame treat" to burn oils was absolutely necessary, but it held up in some very high load areas where the polyethylene had cracked. I would use it anywhere on HDPE or LDPE.
  2. I raced on the Etchells course when it they were doing the windward gate. I thought it did a few things for the racing: 1. Having 2 laylines meant twice the throughput of boats and double the opportunity to round the mark clean 2. The racing wasn't nearly as spread out through the course of the race. Gains and losses were more common 3. In Biscayne Bay, setting marks was fairly easy with the shallow water, but once you go more than the 15 feet, it will be challenging to set 4 marks square. My impression is that this was stopped because there was a combination of fleet sizes getting smaller and people starting to sail with double spin poles to accomplish the ideal set off of the right hand set of marks. I would love some more input from the people who raced on it. I think it has value on smaller bodies of water with big fleets, especially in non-spinnaker boats.
  3. Olly, I am looking forward to receiving my order. Sail Fast!
  4. Seitech still exists (if you can get one shipped). Dynamic Dollies are the "stock" Melges 14 dollies. They don't have those gunwale supports. As it happens, the Dynamic "Fits a Kirby Sailboat" dolly doesn't have gunwale supports either.
  5. Take it out and find the nearest welding shop. Explain how it fits. They will probably be able to straighten it and weld up the crack to a point where you can go sailing. It may not be "racing smooth," but you can go sailing, then make it smooth the next week.
  6. I haven't been into "hardcore" Laser racing in a few years, but we generally spliced a piece of 6mm spectra to a pulley with a long tail, put it through the cleat to hold it, and then hitched the tail around the boom to help it stay in the cleat. This "clogged" the cleat so you couldn't accidentally cleat the outhaul in the cleat if it went slack during an ease. If you look at most boats at big events, you will find that shackles aren't needed.
  7. I am an alumni from UW Madison. I can say without hesitation that UW Lifesaving is an amazing asset to safety of watersports in Madison. This is clearly a massive tragedy. The name of the victim has been released. He was a volunteer instructor with lots of years of service to Hoofers Sailing Club. Clearly something went very wrong. My heart goes out to the victim's family and the UW Lifesaving crew.
  8. Good luck. Here are the barriers: 1. USCG standards are far more stringent than CE standards: a. There is more floation up front required to meet US Standards, because we require floating face up when unconsious. b. Production controls dictate that if you change one stitch, even the logo embroidery, the approval is null and void c. Any pockets must be filled with lead prior to testing. This precludes large pockets d. Each color and size get tested independently, each with significant cost. Rumor is $15k per size and color. e. When tested, they find the largest person who can squeeze into a given size, not "sailor build." 2. Political will to change these standards is minimal 3. Even if the political will did exist, convincing bureaucrats to lessen standards on a life saving device is unlikely. 4. Arguments for "more comfortable means more people wear it" have proven ineffective thus far. 5. There was a recent effort to merge CE and USCG approval. This stalled, likely because of the above points. 6. Do you really think there wouldn't be a GIANT lawsuit if someone died using a PFD produced under a "new, lesser" standard? While it may be nice to wear a more comfortable buoyancy aid, I think you will find it unlikely that you will get anywhere. Editorial--I will never sign a Change.org petition after they continuously spammed me for lots of unrelated causes the last time I signed a petition. I had to block their email address because unsubscribe didn't work.
  9. I just ordered this one. I think I can do the flame-treat trick on the polyethylene and glue it in with some gFlex epoxy from West System. Thanks for pointing me to a solution! I knew someone on SA would make our Race Committee happy.
  10. Nope, this is a crude console made of roto-mold polyethylene. There are no barbs molded into the cup holders.
  11. I wouldn't ask this here if it wasn't for a boat that supports sailing, but I need to solve a problem. I just overhauled the RC boat at our club. Because I know my crowd, I have LOTS of cup holders (for water, really). Now the issue. When it rains, they fill with water and will soon become a slimy mess. I need a drain fitting to drain the cup holders through a hose. Unfortunately, if I drill a hole in the molded-in console cup holders, it will drain water onto the electrical distribution. The others will drain onto stored PFDs and that wouldn't be ideal. So, I need a hose. Who knows which fitting I should use to route the water away from the electrical distribution? I've been through McMaster and can't seem to find something that fits the bill. I'm thinking a simple press in fitting with a barbed connection should be about $0.25, but I can't seem to identify a source. The Race Committee volunteers thank you.
  12. I was involved in shipping a C Scow mast via UShip. That worked well. The guy had a long enclosed trailer. I helped him load it and explained the ways it was fragile. He was totally receptive and delivered it intact.
  13. Just do this:
  14. I put some salsa on my C Scow mainsheet before a fairly large regatta. Fortunately, it waited until the last leeward mark to rats nest so hard in the ratchet block that my crew had to dive in with a knife. When we finished the race, we had 8 pieces of mainsheet and just enough left in the system to go upwind, but not downwind back to the club until we rigged it 1:1 and got about 60 degrees of ease. Never again!
  15. I change lots of numbers. I have gone away from acetone and started using denatured alcohol. It works a little slower, but it will often let the adhesive "roll into a ball" as you scrub with paper towel. It also doesn't overwhelm you with fumes outside. Start by peeling the old numbers off. Lay paper towel over the adhesive and soak with denatured alcohol for a few minutes. Next, wet a paper towel or use one of the "soaking paper towels" and start wiping from an edge toward center. Remove as much adhesive as you can. There should be none visible. Install your new numbers. Dust the area with baby powder. That will clog up any remaining adhesive with white so it doesn't become a brown, dirty area.