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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

Cryptic thin

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About Cryptic thin

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    interested in how some one could use the name "lonely boy 15" and not be a deviant!
  1. I have to say, that all Ross boats are the sexiest looking boats on the planet!. Considering thier age (design) they still look fast (10 knots on the mooring)and have not aged! I have seen some butchered re vamps and adittion though! Sex on a stick for sure! imagine a 100 foot Ross in composite everything! drooolllllll!
  2. Shuzbot! so you guys do'nt get together for a Inter state or regional champs. I suppose if you did you would have to run a handicap system! geez thats a pain! Mind you getting all your different boats toghther for a regatta would show what boats and innovations are "HOT" Whats a Ross 780 that is 8.2 M long called???
  3. So if you 32:1 for rig tension, what tension do you run? Do you have a loose guage to check, seems like a lot. Six Pak has no where near 32 and seams to get enough. The best advice i ever got on rig tension for all boats is to tension the rig so that the leeward stay (cap) is not loose while sailing (in powered up conditions but not overpowered)and thus the rig will be straight sideways and in as much equilibrium as you can get. a loose leeward stay means your rig is overbending / de powering and also means you forstay is slack and you distance between you mainsail tack and head has shortened and thus has compromised your leech control. On interstella Overdrive we had a doulbe spreader set up that held the rig static (with pre set pre bend) and thus we had complete rig controll and quick upwind speed. Do not bother with loose gauges they are a complete sham. why well... they give different readings depending on ages, batches they give differing readings depending on wire type, diameter and where your measure point is. they are only good for you boat only for reference and when calibrated with a Load cell to give true loadings. I had a engineering guru from a local university run tests on 5 brand new gauges in 2004 and on a pre tensioned wire these things varied by up to 12% at the same point and when you move the measure point to the middle of the wire (more deflection) they were giving differing readings by 18-20% If you tension anything between two ponts the middle will move (defelect) more than the attached ends! thus these things are useless when comparing between two class boats unless everything on the two boats (wire type, batch, measure point, diameter, mast type, mast alloy temper...) is exactly the same! Also after reading all these posts i ask one question... Are there any two identical Ross 780's in the world any more??? what happened to the class rules around rigs, keels, ballast...
  4. do you want my bank account? heres my ross 490... doh! how do you get this upload thing to work?
  5. Nice. but i hope you have not put any Alloy next to the carbon without isolating. (i am sure you haven't) just remeber that carbon has poor compression or impact strength so using E glass or kevlar in the mix is important. !
  6. Yeah (3 sheaves = 3:1) Many solutions to dothe same thing. Murray Ross ran a chute tru the anchor well on One tonner- Smack water jack, and his half tonner, and other boats, and it went thru a pulpit that had a round loop in the front. Worked a treat food for thought
  7. Kaiora bro, Can't draw a picure at present but....... from the mainshet block behind the traveller the mainsheet runs up to the boom then down to the single block on the traveller then up to another single block on the boom then alnog to the gooseneck, down thru a hole (with a oversize tube, 1 inch long, glued into the top of the hole to stop water from going below) at the mast step then from here the mainsheet goes thru a single block at floor level (beneath the mast) and joins into a 4:1 (this is actually a 8:1 as it pulls on the 2:1 on the boom)on the floor with the tail exiting thru the cockpit floor to a cleat system above the floor. (harken swivleing cleat set up.)_ The distance from the mast to the travller on the cabin floor is more than adequate to let the boom travel its full distance in and out!
  8. Thumper Mainsheet. If your a hard out race nut then you need to go to a 2:1 OFF THE BOOM TO TRAVELLER. with the boom end going along the boom to the mast then down the mast thru the cabin top and then running into a 8:1 along the floor and exiting out of the floor on a swiviling floor mounted cleat set up. The other end is your "course " downwind trim that is on traveller bock / cleat)this system is fantastic and worth the effort as it reduces clutter in the cockpit, weight on the boom, give a easy adjustmet up wind and good pumping down wind. Rig tension. 8:1 is like pissing into the wind. Either go with the Etchells system of adjustable side stays or do the Flying fifteen thing and tension your forestay with a 32:1 adustable systen that runs out the bottom of the mast. I presume your 8:1 is in the bow like in NZ. Also you could go radicall and do the Flying Dutchman thing (if rules allow) AND HAVE ADJUSTABLE SIDESTAYS / LOWERS AND FORESTAY that all link together so you can tweak rig tension and also rake the rig forward and aft for ultimate upwind and downwind performance! If you use heeps of vang / kicker upwind (to tension leech / set mainsail shape) then i would go to a cascade 32:1 kicker or 16 to one (and a winch) system and then go down to a 4:1 mainsheet (mainsheet effectivley becomes traveller, except in the lightest conditions) Food for thought??? 8:1 is more than ample for a fit person to haul rig tension on. If you run it onto a winch! then yes! But if you want to go fast... get some grunt on ya rig tension. and if you want to go real quick... Get a ross 490! Also look at your sheeting angles for you Jib! Murray Ross used to "whip Arse" with quite narrow sheeting angles on the self taking blades and guys with overlappers could'nt get close!
  9. Thumper Mainsheet. If your a hard out race nut then you need to go to a 2:1 OFF THE BOOM TO TRAVELLER. with the boom end going along the boom to the mast then down the mast thru the cabin top and then running into a 8:1 along the floor and exiting out of the floor on a swiviling floor mounted cleat set up. The other end is your "course " downwind trim that is on traveller bock / cleat)this system is fantastic and worth the effort as it reduces clutter in the cockpit, weight on the boom, give a easy adjustmet up wind and good pumping down wind. Rig tension. 8:1 is like pissing into the wind. Either go with the Etchells system of adjustable side stays or do the Flying fifteen thing and tension your forestay with a 32:1 adustable systen that runs out the bottom of the mast. I presume your 8:1 is in the bow like in NZ. Also you could go radicall and do the Flying Dutchman thing (if rules allow) AND HAVE ADJUSTABLE SIDESTAYS / LOWERS AND FORESTAY that all link together so you can tweak rig tension and also rake the rig forward and aft for ultimate upwind and downwind performance! If you use heeps of vang / kicker upwind (to tension leech / set mainsail shape) then i would go to a cascade 32:1 kicker or 16 to one (and a winch) system and then go down to a 4:1 mainsheet (mainsheet effectivley becomes traveller, except in the lightest conditions) Food for thought???
  10. we now have intersella overdrive in dunedin its now called spilt milk, it seems to have more freeboard than the others,or higher cabin? cant tell.do you know more? Yeah. it was built in Taupo and owned by a sailmaker. and is super quick in the light (or was) If you get a standard hopwood boats trailor and put interstella on it you will soon see the differences! it will sit on some roller s/ pads and be inches of others. The guy that built it did a few tweaks or got confused? Its got less rocker finer in the stern more freeboard... infact its debateable if its a ross 780! but with little measurement spec's at various "controll points" in the class rules then what do you expect?
  11. having sailed ross 780's in NZ or a few years they are great boats. (mystery achivement, Interstella overdrive) however i have now found something even better,... the Ross 490! this is murrays finest and "sex on a stick!"