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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About Jaramaz

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  1. Engine mount replacement

    I am just doing the same on a 3GM30F, ie about the same model. Yanmar actually recommends to have stiffer mounts on one side (and softer on the other), another arrangement often used is to have softer mounts aft (= close to gearbox) and stiffer at the front (close to water pump) mirroring the engine weigth distribution (this is what I had). It is important if you have any kind of flexible coupling between prop shaft and engine, if so you should go for somewhat softer mounts. If there is a separate pressure bearing it is possible to go really soft. It is not really possible to give any numbers as these often are manufacturers dependent, the retailer should be able to give some guidence. The reasoning by PYI seems sound - if you have a conventional prop shaft and no flexible coupling. Otherwise one should think twice. I have considered Yanmar OEM mounts but for me they are - too stiff - too expensive - doesn't fit in the holes for the old mounts. The last argument is essential is I intend to replace the mounts without removing the engine, replacing one mounts at a time. Then it is nearly impossible to drill and thread new holes. At the same time, there are many good mounts on the market, the trick is just to find those with the right stiffness. At least I would appreciate how your work progress and also some info on what mounts you end up with. //J
  2. House batteries

    Espresso maker AUS 19.99. Probably totally worthless. Pic size 27 k. //J
  3. Hallberg Rassy 41

    Interesting as it may be to discuss teak decks, and aspects of it like costs, life time, ... that is totally uninteresting in this case as Adam, the OP, said in post #15: Strongly suggest to read earlier posts prior to engaging in further meaningless discussions. //J
  4. Hallberg Rassy 41

    Performance ... is what it is. As said before, not a boat for light winds. But a nice boat, small ship. 6000 hours on a Yanmar is nothing. When it has reached 10 000 hours it is time to consider some renovation - split it, change some essential bearings and such things. Cost for that depends of course, maybe 20% of new value. Then, after the renovation, it is good for another 10 000 hours. provided fresh water and no turbo - turbos may be problematic, but no show stopper. //J
  5. Hallberg Rassy 41

    exactly so. HR 41 was built 1975 - 1981, rudder separated from keel, centre cockpit. These are old, bit heavy, very tradtitional. As with most Enderlein undercanvassed. This generation has probably the highest build quality of all HR. Will last for ever if just maintained. Inside it is rather traditional which works fine. Woodwork is fine. In light winds it is slow to put it mildly, as H20 said: iron genny. Find more info at http://www.hallberg-rassy.com/yachts/previous-models/hallberg-rassy-41/ at the end of the webpage there is a collection of documents. //J
  6. Which autopilot?

    This is interesting, I tend to agree to a large extent: One my latest boat I started with a NMEA 0183 based installation. The GPS/ Plotter had N2K for the GPS but thet was easy to separate in a specific very thin network. No problem. Then I up-graded, had to move most into N2k, with equipment from more than one manufacturer. Did not work well. Changed so allparts came from one manufacturer - everything works! Can even mix N2k and 0183. Works fine that too. One could suspect propritary messages on N2k which cause problems. //J
  7. Which autopilot?

    Oh well, Jack. No "dickhead" this time? You are otherwise an expert in addressing others in such language. That is certainly provocing. For the computer issue the OP said in his first post: "raymarine autopilot.st 6002" ... "Simple course ,perhaps wind would be nice,already have a lecomble and Schmitt electric/hydraulic drive so I just need the computer.45 ft ketch." I have had Ray 4000 and 6000 series AP:s. Both series was bad designs (minmizing manufacturing cost) resulting in faulty behavior. As is reported on many places at internet. They are simply not reliable. And yes, I did offer a simple solution. Read again. I will not repeat. And yes, I have experience of these products and of OP:s problem. As it is rather worthless to try to discuss with you as we have seen in multiple threads I stop the discussion with you here. //J
  8. Coolboats to admire

    Sure. agree that the definition of mizzen in raltion to rudder stock is ridiculous. Dawns suggestion is attractive - but has dependencies. Abandoning the old edfinitions requires there is a new, better, at hand. //J
  9. Which autopilot?

    Jack, your are always so ... nice. A lot of meaningless post you have produced, just trying to provoce. Now, if you want to go to details ST 6000 is of course the series. If you look at Rays AP in the 4000 / 6000 they are about the same, sharing many parts. Quality of these are not the best. Many owners have problems with these. When it comes to the OP computer he is stating that in his first post. Suggest you read again. //J
  10. Which autopilot?

    Guys, the OP has a ST 6000. It is those that are under discussion. Shape up, will you? //J
  11. Which autopilot?

    Ray's older AP's had many problems. Cheap (or, if you prefer, cost effective), but not very reliable. The new models, Evo xx are much improved both from navigation and electronic building pratice point of view. Suggest you take a look on these. There's one aspect one has to look out for: Ray has now changed their way of acting, issue new updates annually. To update requires a Ray mfd ... OTOH, software for the EVO is quite stable now. If you go along that route see to that you get the latest software, or reasonably new. //J
  12. Craigslist! What do you think of this boat?

    Bene's Firsts from that period are well built, sails reasonably. the xxs5 series have the internal layout designed by Philippe Stark - som like it, some not. It is a 25 year old boat, much depends on how it has been maintained. Engine, sails etc. Bene use to have a rather special way of boat construction with a single layed up hull (not sandwich) and then a strong inner liner which is glued to the hull, this to get increased strength. That is OK in itself, but if there has been any damages repairs can be extensive and costly. Not all yards do that right, resulting in lower strength. Thus the recommendation on having a surveyor is very good. The price seems high to me. OK, it is just the asking price, but still ... here boats of that type and age go for about half that. And no, I doubt the boat listed on Vancouver Craiglist is the same as is listed on Yachtworld. It is the same type / model, but that's it. //J
  13. My newest project

    Taste: no no, most of vodkas do have a taste. It originates from fusel (if Gogle translate now is correct), which probably is lower than the 2% residue you are refering to. The fusel also have some side effects. Swedish vodka is usually rather tasteless, I prefer vodka from Poland. You get back the credit. "Absolute vodka" was a success in the US as it is tasteless - which says it all. However, we are in full agreement on beers. Polish beers are drinkable, but there are much better. You are probably doing something wrong when drinking vodka. We are awaiting the report from you next meeting with Yigael, if he succeeds to convince you. //J
  14. Lief Erikson

    Quite so. And he does have descendants. //J