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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About Jaramaz

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  1. You are perfectly right! The OE 36 is a copy of the first Swan 36 (1960s), a good solid boat - a bit slow, very traditional inside layout. Prices range from $10k to $35k. There are some with a new engine. Much boat for the money, but I doubt this is what Troll is looking for. The Omega 36 is a Ron Holland design, from the mid 1980s. More modern then, fast for its size, internal layout is open with 2-3 cabins, there are some different versions. Asked prices are in the range $30k - $45k, which most likely can be negotiated. Maybe not what Troll has in his sight, but this could be a winner. There are some weak points: engine is most often a Yanmar 3GM30F of the series which had some issues with cooling / oil, chainplates, and if grounded (all does that) then aft part of the keel - as with many boats (measure humidity). //J
  2. Troll, Suggest you take a look on the main local list we have, probably rather to Craiglist. Even though it is in Swedish you can very easy put in some filter parameters, like size and price range. Do not forget prices are asked ones, many are totally off. Many boats has been on this list for more than a year. Test this link, and enjoy the show: https://www.blocket.se/stockholm/batar/segelbat?cg=1060&w=3&st=s&ca=11&is=1&l=0&md=th&c=1062 //J
  3. All project plans are optimistic, must be, there must be some thrill somewhere. At my job there is a saying: multiply project plans & budget with Pi (~3.14) and you have correct estimates. In this case that is not sufficient, here orders of magnitude are called for. two working weeks is about a normal spring maintenance //J
  4. BJ, I have been using Sika (291 and some other) since more than 30 years. Never been using their primer. Have used aceton or "white spirit" as a cleaner, has always worked fine, no problem with bonding. When not so critical I sometimes use something called "PL 400" which bonds very well and fast. Cheaper than Sika. It is mainly for house building purposes. Good luck //J
  5. Very often the story. //J
  6. for Lazy Jacks I use a rather elastic line, not too thin. Works excellent. Lazy Jack lines hould just gather the sail, not carry any other load. Topping lift is another story, coated dyneema, probably 6 mm, maybe 8. Hardly use the topping lift but do not want it elastic - in case I have to use it. ~40 ft LOA //J
  7. No, it is not. An old design, poor build quality. If you put too much load on it, as with too much sail area, you have to take the consequences. The 399 is a big step forward, and then there are the new Divas (eg the 35, very nice). The 39 was a product of the 1980's, low cost, slim and an interesting layout below. Innovative then, not now. Prices, "in Scandinavia", is going down, steady. Sorry, but there is no real reason to promote old things of poor quality even if the design as such is interesting. //J
  8. +1000! and thanks to IStream as well. //J
  9. Out of context. Jocke has an interesting problem - dyneema qualities. Clearly, we need to know more. Just replacing every second year does not improve our understanding. J
  10. Joakim, I live just on the other side of the bay. We do change standing rig periodically, typically 1x19 each 10 - 20 year depending on use. It's more than salt that wears out a wire or anything. Otherwise agree that wear here is much less than in many other areas. Most interested in your problem. I am not using blocks with ball bearings for such applications as they have lower BL and WL than blocks with bush bearings. Downside is higher friction, which is a minor issue when just changing the length some few cm - or parts of it. J
  11. rhe head gasket itself amounts to ~ $50, the head gasket kit as shown in the pic below, ~$100 (recommended to go for this). It is possible to google and it is possible to by from other vendors than local. Not only VP is expensive on gasket kits - recently I had to get a gasket kit the Jabsco toilet - $100. White smoke may be caused by water ingress in the cylinders. Is that the only basis for the guru diagnosis? If the head gasket is blown - why did that happen? Just to replace the gasket may not solve very much, here there is a need for a trained eye. Agree with Zonker, as so often. //J
  12. You may have noticed the OP is not very used to do handle the engine, and now is rather frustrated even looking for replacing the hole thing. Whereas you seem to know even the details. Quite a difference! Otherwise, I agree with your posting, as well as your earlier postings in this thread. The workshop and mech #1 should fix this. Either without any further pay or for a given limited amount, say corresponding to 3-4 hours of work. OP should have an honest discussion with the guys - they have costed him some new equipment, time and a lot of worry. //J
  13. It was this with competence. Very easily detected that it is a Volvo Penta - it is written in big letters. Even if not ... easy to see. Lying to your mechanic is not a good way to start. /J
  14. don't give up on the engine you have. Swapping engine sounds very attratctive when the old one is not working as it should. But a new engine most often means one step up in power, new gearbox, new prop, and of course a new bed. All this costs. The estimate given above ($ 16k) may even be on the low side. There are alternative strategies: 1) fixing the engine where it is, in the boat. This is most likely doable, but takes some efforts. There are many suggestions above. Here, I think it is very important you are in control of the process, which doesn't have to mean you have to do all things yourself. IB:s suggestions above, to break down everything to basics, are very good. To get a good book on Diesel engines is a low investment. There are many. 2) Removing the engine from the boat and bring it to a competent mechanic workshop. Most of this you can do yourself, it takes about ½ day to de-attach an engine and move it out so a truck based crane (or similar) can lift it. The engine can probably be transported in your own car ... to mount the engine takes a full working day for anyone not very used to all such (I did it many years ago, had minimal knowledge - it is easy). The workshop should then go through the engine, test it and fix it. Total cost is maybe $2-3k depending on workshop. A fraction of the cost of swapping engine. Myself, I recommend (1), but if you are close to give up go for (2). It will not hurt as much as swapping to a new engine. (and whatever you do, do not swap to a used engine !). //J
  15. Oh, well, here we are coming into the usual copying issue. The Scanmar33 (and the other Scanmars AFAIK) was designed by Rolf Magnusson. Sailboatdata states the Yamaha was designed by Norlin. For me it looks as the Scanmar has higher freeboard, more internal volume and "comfort". The Yamaha is more a rather standard 33 ft of that time, it looks as these are two different boats. Norlin and Magnusson had different styles, for me these are quite clear. Magnusson a bit heavy, based in the old RORC, whereas Norlin always goes for speed - internal comfort is secondary. But then, both were active in Sweden at the very same time ... of course they influenced each other. //J