tanzer1645

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  1. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 turnbuckles and tuning

    Try it next time you are in a "struggling to keep 2 kts of boat speed" situation - we spend a lot of time at the bottom end of the scale at home and works for us.
  2. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 turnbuckles and tuning

    Irish - woops - yes, I turned it around - you are correct. Something like 10+ turns is all the way up with open-body turnbuckles. Our modified guide (based on Ullman) maxes out at 13.5 turns both upper and lowers. See attached.
  3. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 turnbuckles and tuning

    If the guide you are looking at maxes out at something like 20-24 full turns, its written for open turnbuckles. If it maxes out at something like 40+ full turns, its written for Ronstan calibrated - you can then translate accordingly. I'd start with the guide written for the sails you are using, or if you are really just starting out, whichever guide makes the most sense to you (or, as ASP says, North aint bad). One of the best pieces of advice we got when first starting out was "If you can't get the boat to sail flat by adjusting the main controls & backstay, go up another step regardless of the wind-speed." And the reciprocal: "if you are not depowering at all with main controls & backstay and you're pulling people off the rail, go down a step). Otherwise its easy to get caught up in "but thats what the guide says for 15 kts" and sail around on your ear. As you get better at depowering without rig tension, this rule of thumb still works.
  4. tanzer1645

    Laser dolly for Melges 14

    These guys make a conversion kit to turn a Scitech Laser Dolly into a Melges 14 dolly. Basically lengthens the main beam, changes the bow angle, adds some padding. I cheaped out and got one (had multiple unused Laser dollys laying around) and put the money I saved into an additional rig. Nice guys too (couple of college students). http://www.tech4designs.com/
  5. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 class legal shroud lengths?

    Also, light air you have to really let the lowers out to get enough sag in the mast, I'm pretty sure that you could not get anywhere close to the amount you would need with 85mm too short.
  6. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 class legal shroud lengths?

    Np - 85mm short on the lowers would be a pretty major issue!
  7. tanzer1645

    melges 24 keel movement

    Should add - the delrins need to be shaped both to fit and to position the keel in the max forward/down position allowed by the class rules - I've seen cases where people did DIY delrin installs and did not shape them (this is slow - in my boat quite a lot of material had to be removed to get the keel in the right spot).
  8. tanzer1645

    Is an older melges 24 competitive?

    Here are the two arguments I've heard on why an old 24 is not as competitive as a new one (at least not all the time): Hull is not as stiff causing flexing in waves: The idea is that just like a Laser, an old hull get flexy and in waves (esp. planing downwind in chop) it is flexing, absorbing the waves instead of bashing through them, thus robbing power and slowing you down - or something like that. I'm not personally sure I buy this but I've heard people who went from say, a 100-series hull to a 600-series boat say that the difference was marked; like you could feel the difference in how the boat took the chop in your ass (think: 16+ kts downwind - the older boat had a softer ride and the newer boat was stiff and shook you a bit more). I can say that I once sailed both a 100-series and a 600-series in the same day in big wind and I thought I could tell that the newer boat felt "quieter"...but who knows. Boat flexes when dialing up the rig, limiting how much tension you can ultimately get in the rig: This one I agree with. When you dial up the rig to the extremes recommended by the tuning guides, a newer, stiffer hull puts that load on the rig and the sails. An older boat flexes more, resulting in less shroud tension for the same turns. This seems very plausible to me. I've considered doing some tests like tieing a tensioned line from bow to stern just above the deck on both an old and a new boat, dialing up the rig and seeing how the line "dips". I supposed you could also just dial up the rig and put your loos on and see how much shroud tension differs for the same turns. Never got around to it but would be interesting to see.
  9. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 Shroud replacement

    I should add: don't want to down using the local guy, but I'd probably need to know more about your local guy...does he serve a lot of high performance sailors and have experience with "discriminating" requirements? Then he'll probably do a great job - but if his norm is cruisers and architectural stuff (with less exact requirements), I'd send it off to Melges.
  10. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 Shroud replacement

    I would get the shrouds directly from Melges - not that another rigger could not do it, but I've seen a couple cases of "not quite right" from others. I love APS and buy a ton of stuff from them, but once had to send some M24 shrouds back that arrived a bit too long. I would not replace the spreaders unless you thought they had a problem (lots of people sailing around on early boats with original masts and spreaders with no problems) - I'd send the whole mess to Melges and have them inspect the spreaders before they put the new shrouds in.
  11. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 bowsprit

    First, I'd make sure that it really is clean. I've seen them get really gummy buildup from whatever sort of lube may have been applied. I'd clean with acetone and maybe even 1000 grit sandpaper. The rubber flanges are not a well thought-out solution IMO, when they are new they create a lot of drag on the pole up until they tear (which they always do), then they are easier but of course water gets in (and they cost $80). We basically just remove the aft flange from its mount for normal sailing in anything big big wind with waves (we're on a lake so we never see that at home, and only see it away if we are in the ocean). When we do see big conditions with big waves we put the aft flange back on its mount and remind the crew that the pole is going to be sticky. We do not use any sort of lube anymore because I've not seen any sort of lube that does not quickly collect dirt and turn into sticky gunk. I've seen people use vasoline (great if its hot out, sticky if its cold), sunscreen, even lanocote.
  12. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 crew positions

    Videos: there are some old M24 training videos floating around (maybe by North U?) that walk you through the maneuvers - I don't agree with most of what they show but they are nice because they do slow motion replays and such. Positions: million ways you can do this but here is where I would start. I'll list the roles then talk about how it would work in the maneuvers. Assuming 4 people. Starting aft and moving foward: Driver - drive, mainsheet, backstay, traveler Tactician/Jib Trimmer - calls the shots, trims jib upwind, pole out line, can trim main downwind in a blow if it helps driver drive. Trimmer (aka the muscle) - hoists kite, trims kite, helps douse kite Foredeck (aka the little guy) - pre-feeds then "launches" the kite on the hoist, releases the halyard/tack on the douses, helps douse the kite and does final stowing, main controls (cunny/vang/outhaul), trims jib downwind (once you guys are more comfortable). Tacking - we find it is easier for the tactician to tack the jib since he will be the furthest back (and the first on/off the rail) and is in a good spot for adjustments upwind. Rounding the Top Mark (assuming here that all sets and douses are outside the shrouds, never inside, I'd just standardize on this and not look back). I think this is a good way to go when your front two people are a big guy and a little guy. Once you've laid the mark, Foredeck gets off the rail and starts helping the kite out of the bag and around the shrouds, keeping it out of the water, helping it if it gets caught anywhere. Trimmer is taking in the tack line to pull the tack forward up to your preset mark on the line. As you approach the mark, people get off the rail and the Trimmer gets ready to ring the bell with the halyard. At this point Foredeck gets the whole kite out of the bag and holds onto it. As you are rounding/setting, all of the following happens at once: Foredeck eases/blows vang Tactician eases jib Tactician pulls out the pole Trimmer goes nuts on the halyard Foredeck throws whole kite into air as soon as its clear that Trimmer is going to get it up Foredeck furls jib, eases outhaul Tactician does initial spin trim then hands it over Trimmer when he's ready. Rounding the Bottom Mark - exact steps vary by type (windward/leward/mexican) but this is how the roles might work: Foredeck takes outhaul back in as you approach, makes sure tack/halyward are going to run free Foredeck unfurls jib, Tactican sets initial trim Driver gets on the right heading and calls for the douse Trimmer takes the port side sheet and goes nuts on it until he can grab the clew (of course this varies by douse type, but idea is that no one can get the kite rotated and after like the trimmer can) Around the same time, Foredeck first blows pole, then eases tack, then eases/blows halyard. Basic idea for Foredeck is that you blow the pole as soon as the kite is depowered, then you ease or even blow tack as soon as its clear that the kite is under control, start helping gather, then ease halyard or even blow it once its clear its not going to fall in the water. The trimmer basically grabs a few handfuls of kite, then jumps on the rail and lets the Foredeck finish the douse and clean things up. Tactician brings the kite in as the boat rounds up and hops on the rail. When we are sailing with 4 strong guys, we do something totally different. When we add a 5th, we basically put them all the way forward and they take over the fowward trimmer stuff (like halyard, prefeed tack, etc.)
  13. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 crew positions

    Can you give us an idea of your crew and their size/capabilities? Also do you plan to sail with 4 or 5 (or the more typical: sail with 4 and pick up a 5th when it blows)? There's a few different ways you can run things depending on who your crew is - especially strength. I think there are also some things that work particularly well when you are learning. Who do you have and how big/strong are they? We've run a lot of different configurations depending on crew capabilities. And as River said: yes, sometimes downwind the tactician might grab the main. When we first got the boat (also my first sport boat) the tactician always trimmed the main downwind in planing conditions just so the helm could concentrate on staying upright - the jibes become a bit of a dance (since the trimmer is probably behind the driver, does the driver try to step over the sheet, or duck under it?). As we got more comfortable we stopped doing this completely.
  14. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 keel crane

    Here are some details on the rigging: Keel crane Line length: 15' (use 20’) Line type: Amsteel Blue 3/16” (going to do ¼” next time for better wear) Winch part: Shelby Industries 5405C-81Z: http://www.shelbyindustries.com/1400-winch-large-cable-zinc-p-124.html Block: Harken H308