tanzer1645

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About tanzer1645

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  1. tanzer1645

    PFD Upgrade Time

    Thanks, yes, that's the one. Four of five Spinlock deck vests failed to work properly, allowing the flotation chamber to pull over the wearer’s head to one side of the body. The deceased was found floating face down with the flotation chamber pulled over his head. Given that the crew had to swim through large surf to reach the shore this was a life threatening failure. For me another big reason to dispense with inflatables altogether.
  2. tanzer1645

    PFD Upgrade Time

    re: Deckvests - I don't remember the exact details so maybe someone can fill in the blanks, but at a safety forum I attended they were talking about one of the west coast drownings from a few years ago where people wearing Deckvests ended up with both inflated sections on the same side of thier head, which had the the effect of pinning their head to one side and restricting use of one arm. They did not know whether this happened during or after inflation given the deadness of those involved. If memory serves the response from Spinlock was that a person swimming in big breaking seas was outside their design scope, which may be fair enough, but the presenter suggested that the ability for this to happen at all was something inherent in that design, and that this could not easily happen in more traditional designs. I had been thinking of buying a spinlock vest at that time but hearing about this gave me pause. I will see if I can dig up my notes from the class, but does anyone have more information on this? Yet another reason that a foam vest with built-in harness maybe the answer.
  3. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 turnbuckles and tuning

    No, I think he's probably spot-on and the method is perfectly sound, I've just never been able to use it, then go out on the water and see it anywhere close to right (not for lack of trying). I've also seen others struggle with this method w/o results. One of those things where I'm sure I'm just doing it wrong, but can't figure out where my mistake is. I guess the real point I'm trying to make is that the "sighting the mast" method works for a lot of people and should not be thought of as hokey. If you are new to the class its just probably not something you've seen in a lot of other boat's tuning guides (at least it was for me).
  4. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 turnbuckles and tuning

    Yes, you could call it "very loose" depending on what your base of comparison is, but if you got to that by using the wind-up-then-down method, I'd bet you $50 its way off of where it should be - at least based on my results with that method.
  5. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 turnbuckles and tuning

    Brent - looking for the sag is the only way I know to be accurate. The tension up then down thing may get you close-ish but I do not think is reliable. To help with the sighting here is our method: 1) put small red dots on the underside of the spreaders .75 in from the mast - then when sighting the mast, you basically line up this dot with the top and the bottom of the mast (i.e.: mast base, spreader dot, mast tip form straight line) 2) sight the mast in base conditions, crew in upwind mode, and someone steering on the wind (basically, full upwind mode) 3) put your head at deck level with your eye right next to the front of the mast (i basically lay down on deck) - this gives a better perspective then trying to crane your neck back while squatting at the mast 4) when sighting, while laying on your back, grab the windward inner and pull it till the mast is straight, then let it off to see the curve, if you do this repeatedly (pull till straight, let off to see curve, repeat), you can get a much better feel for how much sag there is. Once you get used to this the whole process will take you 60 sec. including the tack to check the other side. Finally, since this has to be done in base-ish conditions, the classic problem is that you take your boat somewhere and its blowing stink when you are rigging so you do not have an opportunity to check sag. The solution is to get your shroud measurements with a caliper at home in perfect base conditions, so you can go straight to that setting at a regatta.
  6. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 turnbuckles and tuning

    Try it next time you are in a "struggling to keep 2 kts of boat speed" situation - we spend a lot of time at the bottom end of the scale at home and works for us.
  7. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 turnbuckles and tuning

    Irish - woops - yes, I turned it around - you are correct. Something like 10+ turns is all the way up with open-body turnbuckles. Our modified guide (based on Ullman) maxes out at 13.5 turns both upper and lowers. See attached.
  8. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 turnbuckles and tuning

    If the guide you are looking at maxes out at something like 20-24 full turns, its written for open turnbuckles. If it maxes out at something like 40+ full turns, its written for Ronstan calibrated - you can then translate accordingly. I'd start with the guide written for the sails you are using, or if you are really just starting out, whichever guide makes the most sense to you (or, as ASP says, North aint bad). One of the best pieces of advice we got when first starting out was "If you can't get the boat to sail flat by adjusting the main controls & backstay, go up another step regardless of the wind-speed." And the reciprocal: "if you are not depowering at all with main controls & backstay and you're pulling people off the rail, go down a step). Otherwise its easy to get caught up in "but thats what the guide says for 15 kts" and sail around on your ear. As you get better at depowering without rig tension, this rule of thumb still works.
  9. tanzer1645

    Laser dolly for Melges 14

    These guys make a conversion kit to turn a Scitech Laser Dolly into a Melges 14 dolly. Basically lengthens the main beam, changes the bow angle, adds some padding. I cheaped out and got one (had multiple unused Laser dollys laying around) and put the money I saved into an additional rig. Nice guys too (couple of college students). http://www.tech4designs.com/
  10. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 class legal shroud lengths?

    Also, light air you have to really let the lowers out to get enough sag in the mast, I'm pretty sure that you could not get anywhere close to the amount you would need with 85mm too short.
  11. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 class legal shroud lengths?

    Np - 85mm short on the lowers would be a pretty major issue!
  12. tanzer1645

    melges 24 keel movement

    Should add - the delrins need to be shaped both to fit and to position the keel in the max forward/down position allowed by the class rules - I've seen cases where people did DIY delrin installs and did not shape them (this is slow - in my boat quite a lot of material had to be removed to get the keel in the right spot).
  13. tanzer1645

    Is an older melges 24 competitive?

    Here are the two arguments I've heard on why an old 24 is not as competitive as a new one (at least not all the time): Hull is not as stiff causing flexing in waves: The idea is that just like a Laser, an old hull get flexy and in waves (esp. planing downwind in chop) it is flexing, absorbing the waves instead of bashing through them, thus robbing power and slowing you down - or something like that. I'm not personally sure I buy this but I've heard people who went from say, a 100-series hull to a 600-series boat say that the difference was marked; like you could feel the difference in how the boat took the chop in your ass (think: 16+ kts downwind - the older boat had a softer ride and the newer boat was stiff and shook you a bit more). I can say that I once sailed both a 100-series and a 600-series in the same day in big wind and I thought I could tell that the newer boat felt "quieter"...but who knows. Boat flexes when dialing up the rig, limiting how much tension you can ultimately get in the rig: This one I agree with. When you dial up the rig to the extremes recommended by the tuning guides, a newer, stiffer hull puts that load on the rig and the sails. An older boat flexes more, resulting in less shroud tension for the same turns. This seems very plausible to me. I've considered doing some tests like tieing a tensioned line from bow to stern just above the deck on both an old and a new boat, dialing up the rig and seeing how the line "dips". I supposed you could also just dial up the rig and put your loos on and see how much shroud tension differs for the same turns. Never got around to it but would be interesting to see.
  14. tanzer1645

    Melges 24 Shroud replacement

    I should add: don't want to down using the local guy, but I'd probably need to know more about your local guy...does he serve a lot of high performance sailors and have experience with "discriminating" requirements? Then he'll probably do a great job - but if his norm is cruisers and architectural stuff (with less exact requirements), I'd send it off to Melges.