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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

xyzzy

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About xyzzy

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  1. Titanium locknuts. Bought them and the bolts off ebay, was something like $60 for 12 M6 bolts/nuts. Certainly would have been cheaper to use stainless, but considering the effort I put in replacing the chainplates an extra $40 is nothing. And stainless bolts wouldn't have matched the chainplates.
  2. Anyone used Kiwigrip and removed it?

    I did my boat with it. Came out well I think. The prep work is much less since it will cover existing molded nonskid. Of course you must clean and dry before applying, but anything will require that. After a while, I had an adhesion issue with section I did on cockpit sole. It would chip off with dropped sea-dog plastic winch handles. I think the problem was in the prep. I did the boat in sections over several days since I didn't have enough time to prep and apply to the whole boat with enough dry time afterward. The cockpit sole, being shaded, didn't get dry enough. After a year I redid it, rotating the boat in the slip to get more sun in the cockpit and working on a warmer day. Not problem now about three years later. I can still damage it by dropping something heavy and hard, like a large wrench, but that would damage gelcoat or paint too, and the Kiwi grip is very easy to repair.
  3. Flicker Construction

    I wonder if one could just put a dyneema bight through a hole in the flicker and then tie a knot in the two loose ends so it can't pull back out. Would dyneema chafe the backstay?
  4. San Juan 7.7

    Don't know about fern, but I don't have one. Last year I had the seam between the keel stub and hull repaired. It was starting to get stress cracks. Running around earlier in the year probably hadn't helped it. The joint from the keel to the stub was still fine. A few years ago I drained the water our of the rudder and refaired it. It's two halves bolted together and the fairing around the bolts was starting to get water logged. The previous owner sanded it and left the fairing exposed with just bottom paint over it. It's held up pretty well for being over 38 years old.
  5. San Juan 7.7

    It's this one: Race to the Straits this year single handed. Rates 219 PHRF-NW. This spinnaker is from an Etchells which rates code 8 for a 9 second penalty. The other board is Fern, was for sale in May 2016, don't know where it went. I be a bit worried about the side loads on the unsupported mast section above the hounds if running a masthead asym. Perhaps with retofitted runners too.
  6. Pettit Vivid removal options

    Start at 40 grit instead? And stop at 80. I see frequent reference to a gasoline and match method on these forums but have never tried it myself.
  7. Heavy #1 vs #2

    Wouldn't one increase forestay tension in higher winds?
  8. Building a boat

    If you bought a 35' boat and sailed it for year, you'd know better what you like and what you'd do differently when you build your own boat. Consider it hands on research.
  9. Building a boat

    You can always buy a working boat and then spend way more time and money making it better, because you enjoy working on boats. What's more going to be more fun, building a mast that will never be stepped or turboing the rig in your boat and then actually sailing your new rig? Repowering your boat with a reliable engine and taking it on a cruise, or restoring an old tractor motor that will sit next to a empty hull in a pole barn in your back yard until you die or sell the house? Do you want to build stuff you'll use or build stuff you won't? You get to build things both ways. Could you get on a boat and sail for six months? Because if you can, you're lucky. It won't be like that when you're 30. Do you want to sail to Alaska with no deadline? Or do you want to try to build a 35' boat? Expect to give up the one you don't do first.
  10. jib sheet line vs cam cleat

    Cams are harder to release as the line loads up. With no winch, maybe it's just too much load. The cam on my mainsheet was too hard to release when loaded, so I switched it to a PXR. That wouldn't work for a jib since the PXR holds the line captive. I think Harken had a non-captive cam style cleat with a different release system that worked better under load. Or maybe use a ratchet block for the jib lead to help with the load at the cam. The ratchet would make getting the line on the cleat as the jib loads easier too.
  11. Addressing topside paint issue

    I wonder which province it was and which ones have survived?
  12. New England Bzzz line

    I've done this for the super tight single braids like bzzz. You can fit a small dyneema line down the center (with difficulty). Try 1/8" amsteel into 1/4" bzzz. Use a loop of small gauge wire as a puller. Just whip the end of the bzzz to hold it together, rather than trying to bury the bzzz in the dyneema, like in a normal end-to-end single braid splice. This gives you a light weight tail and you can you can splice a eye or a low friction ring into the dyneema easily. The bury portion will stiffen the line.
  13. Hoyt jib boom outhaul binding

    Is there enough space to attach a lashing block, like a Harken T2, to the jib clew with a soft shackle? If you don't need to remove the block from the clew often, you could just lash it normally instead of using a soft shackle.
  14. Broken gooseneck casting

    My repair has held for at least one race so far. I'd still like to have a replacement in case it doesn't hold.
  15. The Four Carbon Cutters project

    Doesn't the track pin on jib cars usually go on the aft side? At least all mine work this way.