xyzzy

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About xyzzy

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  1. xyzzy

    Keel bolt maintenance.

    What about bonding a G10 plate around the keel bolts, with thickened epoxy under it and allowed to be normal the bolts. Then putting the backing plates on top of that, without any bonding. Basically give a new top to the keel cavity that *is* flat and square to the bolts.
  2. xyzzy

    ASA Classes in Puget Sound

    Club owner is also a owner of the J boat dealership. Likes J boats in the club and so tries to setup deals with the Js that pass through his brokerage.
  3. xyzzy

    ASA Classes in Puget Sound

    I believe most are privately owned, by club members, and leased by the club.
  4. xyzzy

    Crack above keel joint seeping fluid C&C36

    I had some of this around the joint of the keel stub the hull on my boat. Not nearly as much fluid at that. But it was water in the laminate. Yard ground it down and put in new glass. Wasn't that big of a deal and didn't cost all that much, maybe like $1k. Been three years and I see no sign of any damage in the paint in that area, which is what I noticed originally.
  5. xyzzy

    Replacement shroud attachments

    Yep. What could go wrong? My understanding is that aircraft eyes for 3/16" wire should be able to supply 100% of the rated strength of the wire. So I shouldn't be making it any weaker by moving from marine eyes to aircraft eyes. Aircraft eyes for 7/32" wire also use a 5/16" clevis and are supposed to be stronger than the wire I've got now. Switching to tangs will mean the eyes aren't bent and aren't being loaded off axis. So, assuming the tangs are not a new limiting factor, if anything this should be stronger than what I've got now. At least that's my theory so far. I also found a single plate shroud tang at rigrite, K-363C, 1/8" thick with 5/16" pin hole. Suppose to be good for up to 7/32" shrouds. Perhaps that would have been better. It also factored into my reasoning that if a 1/8" thick plate for a 5/16" clevis and a 3/8" bolt can support 7/32" wire, then an identically dimensioned Ronstan tang ought to be good enough for 3/16".
  6. xyzzy

    Replacement shroud attachments

    A 3/8" eye fitting is 5/16" thick, while the tang is just 1/8". It'll surely be easier for me to bend the tangs without adding cracks than to bend eyes. I've yet to measure the angle I need, but just from eye-balling it, I think it's closer to the 22° of the tangs than to the 0° of straight eyes. So less bending too. But I'll see what happens bending and expect that it might not go well. Maybe get a spare tang in case I bust one. Seems like another possible problem is the spot welds holding the two plates together could let go from the plates wanting to slide.
  7. xyzzy

    New Mainsail - what sailmaker What Type

    If you wouldn't mind, what's a 3di main for a 27 footer run?
  8. xyzzy

    Replacement shroud attachments

    I see what you mean. My plan to bend them was to stack washers between the plates and then clamp that down tight on a 5/16" bolt where the clevis pin is. Then put the flat part in a vice. Hopefully that can clamp the two plates into position well enough that they expand/contract on either side of the bend instead of just shifting position.
  9. I use one of these dehumidifiers, https://www.amazon.com/Eva-Dry-EDV4000-Dehumidifier-Rotary-Desiccant/dp/B00GOZ1XLK Which appears to be basically the same as this one https://www.amazon.com/EcoSeb-DD122EA-CLASSIC-Desiccant-Dehumidifier-Ionizer/dp/B00KHJICC2/ Been two years and still working fine. It uses a desiccant wheel rather than a compressor and cooling coils. This allows it to run well at low temperatures, like in an otherwise unheated boat in the winter. It's also smaller and lighter than any compressor dehumidifier. It doesn't use disposable desiccant pellets, instead there is a wheel inside the unit that as it turns alternately absorbs water from the air in one part and then has the water cooked out in another. It's not peltier based, like eric1207's. Those are still based on cooling air to condense the moisture. They also tend to be really low capacity.
  10. Sounds like your foil is a different size than the luff tape on the sails. The tape is held in because it's larger than the slot in the foil. Or it's supposed to be. Not by friction. It's not the mclube.
  11. xyzzy

    Replacement shroud attachments

    Boat is a San Juan. The RF348 is bent to about a 22° angle. My plan was the bend them to match the angle of the eyes after I take the stick down to do the changeover. They are made of two 1/16" plates, and so 1/8" at the mast. Would the single 1/8" plate be better because it will be easier to bend? I assume a single plate with a hole would need a fork terminal rather than an eye. I haven't measured how thick the existing eyes are, but I'd guess more than 1/8", so I might have to cut some more threads on the existing bolt to get it tight. Or replace the bolt, but I doubt I'll find one with the perfect shank length that doesn't have me cut some extra threads.
  12. xyzzy

    Replacement shroud attachments

    Do you mean place an eye-fork toggle between the tang and the swage eye for more articulation? Or is there some other means of attaching the stay to the mast that I'm missing? The only other options I see are trying to retrofit backing plates for stem-ball or T-ball fittings, and I don't really see that as all that much better than a though bolted tang.
  13. I'm replacing my shrouds and I'm not sure if I should keep the original mast attachment scheme. Currently the upper shroud terminals are swage eyes, 3/8" eyes on 3/16" wire. The eyes on either side are through-bolted to each other. The shank of the eye is bent to try to align it to the load. That seems a bit sketchy to me and a good way to start some cracks on the outside of the bend. There's no articulation in any direction. My idea for replacement is to use a Ronstan RF348 tang, through-bolted to the mast, as the shroud attachment point. It's got a 3/8" fixing hole, which would mean I could keep the though bolt the same size for the existing holes in the mast. The clevis is 5/16", and there are 5/16" eyes for 3/16" wire. There's no load rating for this tang that I can find. But I would think that with a 5/16" clevis it should be designed for the loads that a 5/16" eye is designed for. It should be easier to bend this tang to the proper angle than bending an eye fitting. And it will have articulation in one axis to allow for changes in angle with mast bend. This plan seem reasonable? What the existing terminals look like:
  14. It's a norseman fitting, so you could shorten the stay and put it back on. Got to be easier to cut a stay shorter than forge a fitting to a smaller diameter to internally thread it. The threaded stud eye fitting would be attached to the offset lever the same way you have the swage eye fitting converted to internally threaded eye fitting attached to it. So it would remove in the same manner. The turnbuckle would be the extra part. Or get one of these, Norseman threaded stud goes in the top. Eye attaches to lever. But I bet it doesn't come in a large enough size. An eye fitting for 3/8" wire (we know that from the "12") would have a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" eye. So if that's the pin size in your lever, then you'll be stuck with threaded eye fittings with a thread of at least 1/2" if not larger. But the norseman fitting has a 7/16" stud (stay is 1/4"?), which wouldn't match a threaded eye or eye end turnbuckle that is going to be 1/2", or larger. Assuming your stay is 1/4", that's 7000+ lbs breaking strength. What your gate fitting rated for?
  15. Why not just get a normal male threaded eye terminal and connect to the Norseman fitting with a turnbuckle?