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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

xyzzy

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About xyzzy

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  1. What don't you like about the plexi? I've got ancient hatchboards and I've thought of replacing them with tinted acrylic. Let more light in. I'd probably fashion a sunbrella cover that could could be put over the companionway for more privacy when spending the night in a marina.
  2. That boat is just a couple slips down from me. I thought it was a T-bird. For some reason its sitting really low in the stern.
  3. While butyl tape is great, putting butyl tape around 100 carriage bolts and then going though multiple tightening stages on them sounds like a huge PITA.
  4. Bigger blocks weight more, take more space and hurt more when they hit your head. IMHO, even the smaller setup is overkill but Garhauer doesn't make anything smaller. I use Harken blocks with a SWL of 800 lbs and my main is twice the size. I'd be a bit worried about the lack of adjustability of the cam cleat side and angle. To bad you don't have some old blocks to sail the boat with first to get an idea of what works. Garhauer also makes blocks with snap shackles, since you have to remove the mainsheet to rig and unrig that might be a nice feature.
  5. Sure it can. A transport stream is a multiplex that can contain multiple video and audio streams. If you live in the USA and get broadcast TV, those sub-channels like 7-1, 7-2, 7-3, where 7-1 is the main network and 7-2, 7-3, and so on are non-HD channels like GetTV or ThisTV, etc., are all being broadcast on a single transport stream. That can be captured to a file, and it's got different different video streams at different resolutions. A better player will let you select which stream to play. A lesser player will just play whatever is first in the PAT. Even a single video stream can be present in multiple resolutions at the same time. See the Spatial scalability extension in section 7.7 of ISO13818-2 (MPEG2 video). Of course that's not in the main profile and no one uses it. As for a single program in a transport stream changing resolution, there's no rule that says it can't. It's a streaming format so there is no single header that describes the resolution in one place. When a digital TV changes channels, it starts decoding the transport stream at whatever frame happened to be getting broadcast at the time it went to that channel. It's jumping into the middle of the stream without any access to what was broadcast before. So how could the resolution of an earlier part of the video stream that the TV never sees make any difference?
  6. I wonder if there is some way to strain relief the hose, so that the glue on the polyethylene doesn't need to support the whole weight of it and any bumps or tugs it might take. Like a hose clamp that's lashed to something.
  7. It was the main halyard, though it was the XLS cover that the clutch eventually ate through. I'm going to replace the cover in the clutch area with Robline's AD10 cover. Hopefully that will be more durable. I'll use DPX as the tail so I don't need to cover it after the clutch. Found out fisheries isn't going to carry DPX anymore, which is a bummer because I think it's great stuff and use it for my sheets now. The head end of the halyard was looking rather ratty too and I thought I should be able to put some DCS cover on it to make it more durable. In my head it looked just like Merit 25's picture but I wasn't sure how to go about it.
  8. Merit 25, what's the technique for that? Is it basically just a double braid splice? Or do you do a plain bury splice on just the core and the cover end isn't buried. It just ends under the whipping.
  9. Yep, exact opposite. Found another picture. This is in a double braid and not a single, but I imagine they stripped off the cover and added the chafe sleeve to just the core, so it's basically the same thing.
  10. Don't have a lot of extra space above the headboard for more connections. I suppose I could just tie the diamond knot onto the cringle. Would mean the halyard would run through the mast if someone ever let it go. Found a product samson makes for tug lines that kind of does what I'm thinking. It's way too big. The smallest one is for 1" rope. But maybe I could do something like it with appropriately sized chafe sleeve.
  11. I assume by swage you mean a swaged stud. That's be a threaded stud terminal, swaged to the wire. The fork and eye terminals are swaged to the wire too. And I'd guess the turnbuckles also include the toggle jaw? For 3/16" wire there are two sizes of terminals you can use, 3/8" or 5/16". Sometimes called marine and aircraft, respectively. 5/16" is cheaper, but you'd want to buy the size that fits the holes in your chainplates, stem fitting, etc. The 5/16" parts alone, in USD, would be about: stud $11, eye $12, fork $21, and turnbuckle $29. And $0.60-$0.75 for wire depending on 304 vs 316. So pretty reasonable in CAD, other than those turnbuckles are expensive.
  12. Is there some way to stick a cover on eye splice made in single braid line? The end of my halyard where it's spliced around the shackle seems to get a bit worn from the shackle and probably edges of the mast crane. It's just amsteel with a brummel eye on the end. A couple inches of chafe cover around the splice seems like it would make it more robust. Seems like I could add some cover to the end, and then splice an eye like it was double braid. But that would mean just a plain bury eye in amsteel. Or is there some way to get a cover around an eye with a brummel?
  13. If the inner surface isn't true to the outer, I've used the bolts as a guide to get the backing plate square. Run some nuts all the way up on the bolts used to affix the piece. Adjust the nuts so the tip of the bolts is just barely proud of the inner surface when the bots are placed into the mounting holes. Make the length under the nut the same for each bolt. Put some tape or weight on the heads so they don't push out easily. Now if the backing plate is pressed up against the the tips of the bolts, it will be square to the outer mounting surface.
  14. If casc27's comment wasn't clear, the water is most likely not coming in via the screw hole in the rail. It's coming in from around the edge of the rail where it meets the deck. Then through the screw hole in the cabin top under the rail. Sealing the hole in the rail where the screw is inserted will do you no good. You've got to seal the rail to deck interface and the screw to deck hole interface. This means pull the rail, not just one the one screw.
  15. It may be 40% off, but the prices are so high to begin with... Every year I look at the WM sale, but I can get comparable Samson lines at Fisheries for about 40% off of the 40% off price.