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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About xyzzy

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  1. Pettit Vivid removal options

    Start at 40 grit instead? And stop at 80. I see frequent reference to a gasoline and match method on these forums but have never tried it myself.
  2. Heavy #1 vs #2

    Wouldn't one increase forestay tension in higher winds?
  3. Building a boat

    If you bought a 35' boat and sailed it for year, you'd know better what you like and what you'd do differently when you build your own boat. Consider it hands on research.
  4. Building a boat

    You can always buy a working boat and then spend way more time and money making it better, because you enjoy working on boats. What's more going to be more fun, building a mast that will never be stepped or turboing the rig in your boat and then actually sailing your new rig? Repowering your boat with a reliable engine and taking it on a cruise, or restoring an old tractor motor that will sit next to a empty hull in a pole barn in your back yard until you die or sell the house? Do you want to build stuff you'll use or build stuff you won't? You get to build things both ways. Could you get on a boat and sail for six months? Because if you can, you're lucky. It won't be like that when you're 30. Do you want to sail to Alaska with no deadline? Or do you want to try to build a 35' boat? Expect to give up the one you don't do first.
  5. jib sheet line vs cam cleat

    Cams are harder to release as the line loads up. With no winch, maybe it's just too much load. The cam on my mainsheet was too hard to release when loaded, so I switched it to a PXR. That wouldn't work for a jib since the PXR holds the line captive. I think Harken had a non-captive cam style cleat with a different release system that worked better under load. Or maybe use a ratchet block for the jib lead to help with the load at the cam. The ratchet would make getting the line on the cleat as the jib loads easier too.
  6. Addressing topside paint issue

    I wonder which province it was and which ones have survived?
  7. New England Bzzz line

    I've done this for the super tight single braids like bzzz. You can fit a small dyneema line down the center (with difficulty). Try 1/8" amsteel into 1/4" bzzz. Use a loop of small gauge wire as a puller. Just whip the end of the bzzz to hold it together, rather than trying to bury the bzzz in the dyneema, like in a normal end-to-end single braid splice. This gives you a light weight tail and you can you can splice a eye or a low friction ring into the dyneema easily. The bury portion will stiffen the line.
  8. Hoyt jib boom outhaul binding

    Is there enough space to attach a lashing block, like a Harken T2, to the jib clew with a soft shackle? If you don't need to remove the block from the clew often, you could just lash it normally instead of using a soft shackle.
  9. Broken gooseneck casting

    My repair has held for at least one race so far. I'd still like to have a replacement in case it doesn't hold.
  10. The Four Carbon Cutters project

    Doesn't the track pin on jib cars usually go on the aft side? At least all mine work this way.
  11. Broken gooseneck casting

    Gouvernail, that's not how mine looks I've talked to Stephen who owns San Juan Sailboats now, with all the old stock. He has a part for the SJ 21 mast as a boom gooseneck, but not mine. The boom section is exactly 3" wide and about 4.1" tall. The top and bottom are identical semicircles. Same curve top and bottom, but a foot/luff groove in top. Not teardrop. The sides are flat and parallel. It's not a san juan 21 mast section or a san juan 24 boom section (that I've ever seen). I have #8, with the below deck closed body turnbuckles and jib tacks that extend all the way to the forward hatch. I'm replacing the TBs with the ronstan single-ended TBs, since modern open body don't fit in the space between the chainplates and the deck. And I made new chainplates out of titanium. Waiting for the racing season to end before doing the install of that stuff. Every 7.7 I've seen has the same boom as mine. Including a much newer (relatively speaking) one that was San Juan Manufacturing instead of Clark Boats. Perhaps they switched booms based on whatever was closest to the edge in the spar rack that day?
  12. Broken gooseneck casting

    I've glued the broken part back in with System3 MetlWeld. Like JB weld but maybe higher performance and I already had some. I'm doubtful it will be strong enough. Thus the sistering with a new piece of alu that I've already made. I'll bond the new piece with epoxy too and also use two screws where there's enough material left in the old bit. If it breaks, then I can always try grinding the ear off and bolting some angle on to make a new one. I've been trying to see if anyone can make a new one or has a salvaged one but can't even get a call back much less find the part.
  13. Broken gooseneck casting

    The tack attachment point is aft of the forward edge of the main base. So if I bolt a u-channel to the base, the hole for the tack would be just aft of the channel and miss it. I'd probably have to move the tack 1/2" forward.
  14. Broken gooseneck casting

    I had an idea for what might be an easy way to get it working again. I could sister the broken flange by adding another alu plate to the outside. That wouldn't affect in the inner dimension where the toggle for the gooseneck fits. There is perhaps enough meat left to attach the sister with a couple screws into the broken flange.
  15. Broken gooseneck casting

    The boom side of the gooseneck casting broke on my San Juan 7.7. A tab on the outside of the casting where it bolts to the gooseneck toggle snapped off. See picture. For scale, the boom section is 3" x 4.5". I do have the broken off bit too. Would this be weldable or otherwise repairable? Any one with experience getting something like this cast or machined?