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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Sea Scouter

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    514
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About Sea Scouter

  • Rank
    Anarchist
  • Birthday 01/01/1954

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  • Website URL
    http://www.metalworkingsystems.com
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Racine, WI USA
  • Interests
    My Dufour 40, Sea Scout Ship 5750, and the Racine Yacht Club
  1. Change from Mast T balls to Tangs

    Beautiful old school drawing... made my day! But who is that Lapworth guy and what does he know about sailboats?
  2. Hack-tricians and hack-veyors

    Crimp is the preferred method of fastening lugs (as opposed to solder)... all things being equal, you have to have the right crimper and the right connector. Channel locks are not crimpers.
  3. 3DL sail delam

    Sticky mylar really doesn't work. Cover the strings but the adjoining material with laminate lifts a few weeks later. Mine looks like a shedding lizard. It's over.
  4. Any epaint users with good results

    Tried it. Used the hot coat recommendation over 2000 barrier coat. Came off in sheets. Sheets were however free from growth. Good part was that I could remove all 35 feet of it with a dull wall paper scraper in an hour. $400 mistake. Pros=easy removal
  5. Sanding dust collect

    Dust Deputy (Oneida).... with the Fein vacuum sander you can dust in a tuxedo
  6. Learning to make knots

    bowline more bowlines clove hitch figure 8 stopper cleat hitch in the fashion of 'oh-8-oh' and 'oh-8-half hitch;. Nothing screams lubber as much as fifty-seven turns around a cleat. And make sure the half hitch is going the right way. Learn how to whip a line or, at least, fuse a line (butane back splice).
  7. DIY chainplates

    Drill material: Cobalt High Speed Steel Geometry: Split point Length: Screw machine length (short) Oil: Almost anything. Nothing wrong with used motor oil. Method: Slow RPM, high pressure. Drill a small hole first ~ 1/8"
  8. Wheel grip.... who uses what...?

    I did mine from scratch. Bought the Elk hide and the fork thingy to poke the holes for the stitching. +1 on thin double stick tape, and I recommend the 1/8" foam. Put on Netflix and start sewing. No brainer. What else is there to do? Oh, varnish cabin sole. (Which, I might add, can be slowly migrated into the den and dining room. Most of the house is just storage and prep area for the yachting hobby. At least she knows where to find me, eh?)
  9. cuttting up an old boat

    I have done a few of these... Fastest, easiest, cheapest is a Skil saw with some Harbor freight carbide blades. Sawzall sucks and blades are expensive. Market price on lead right now is about $0.45/pound. If they see steel in the casting, be prepared for a major discount. Tyvec suit, eyes and mouth go without saying. Tape up the sleeves of the Tyvec and get a painting balaclava or you will be itching for a couple days.
  10. To Bond or Not To Bond

    Yes, it's the other ESD. Electo Shock Drowning has been a focus of well run marinas in the last few years. It's a problem in saltwater or brackish water but it is a major hazard in fresh water as the current does not rapidly decrease over distance. I used to swim in marinas. Now, never.
  11. Cruising First 405 - remove running back stays?

    I had a 345. The jackstays are rarely used. In conjunction with the babystay, they will keep the mast in column. Sometimes we would invert in light air to make the main a little fuller. We rigged them with bungee cord like Star backstays. That is, on the level of the first spreader set, we ran a bungee from the jackstay over one spreader and under the other spreader to the other jackstay. This would hold one or both stays forward when not in tension.
  12. Atomic 4 Anarchy...

    Just curious... how many batteries aboard and how old were they? A strong battery should supply sufficient power to the ignition system for opertion for a while... maybe an hour or so. It does make sense that an alternator just freewheeling (no juice) might throw a couple HP load when it pegs to 50A output.
  13. Bad Times in Mobile

    Sure, NASCAR requires all that stuff. And guess what? The cars most of us drive meet many of the same safety goals. Rollover protection, airbags, 3-point restraint, and gas tanks that survive inversion and are buried in the interior structure. My perspective is sailing on the Great Lakes. If you go in in June without a life jacket, you have only a few minutes. So I boil it down to two groups, those who understand the dangers of cold water immersion and those ignorant of the poor chances of survival. A little dramatic but pretty scientific->
  14. Weeping About Weeping Keel

    Geesh... that's ugly. I think the epoxy filler would work if it is DRY. If it is even 'dampish', the possibility is that the epoxy kind of cures to epoxy bubble gum. Which, by the way, is a do-over. One way to overcome the dampness is a sacrificial hairdryer... you can get them on the wife's side of the bathroom. They will run for about a day, maybe two on low heat.
  15. Weeping About Weeping Keel

    Go in with an angle head grinder right to the cast iron. Try to get out to the margins of the area where the water has infiltrated the bond between the coating and the cast iron. Taper the sides of the encapsulated covering. The rougher the better. Let it dry out or force it dry with a hair dryer or heat gun set on low. At that point, prime with something that has a little zonc chromate in it... Rustoleum has a product. Read the label. After the primer has dried, mix a bog of epoxy with some fluffy glass bits and some colloidal silica (West 406 & 403). You want it a little more than mayo and not quite peanut butter. Start pushing and squeegeeing into the patch area. Nice and easy & nice and slow to eliminate air pockets. Don't overfill. Cover it in a patch of mylar... I heard that wax paper works, but I like the stiffenss of mylar that's the stuff sign shops throw away after they make an adhesive decal. I generally make the mylar piece about an inch larger on all sides. At this point you can start working out the excess and the air bubbles by squeegee and a long flexible batten to fair the level to the adjacent height of the keel. If there is too much material, squeegee to the margins and get rid of the excess. When it is pretty smooth, tape the edges down with some masking tape of tape over the entire patch with 2". The mylar is pretty stiff, but the tape helps with the sagging too. Since you are in Annapolis, it just might be under 60 degrees. Sneak up to the linen closet and 'borrow' the heating pad. Tape the heating pad and some home insulation (the reflective craft paper stuff) to the keel with some duct tape. Turn up the heat and come back in a couple days. Don't worry too much about the outside temp: You have the heating pad and this isn't an airplane wing. Block sand that shit with 60 grit and hit it with a very thin pass of epoxy and STIFF with 410 microlight spheres. Cover with mylar and heat. The 410, even when stiff, likes to sag. Remember how to do it because >Cast Iron Keel