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About jreisberg

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  • Birthday 11/12/1980

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    Distance racing, round-the-buoy racing, big boats, small boats, cruising with the fam, mastering the art of splicing.

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  1. jreisberg

    State registration display boards?

    Correct. Boat will be in NY waters for a certain amount of time. NY rules specify that, if a boat is in the state for less than 90 consecutive days, a boat is exempt from NY registration where the boat displays a valid registration from another state. I take this to mean that if you bring a boat into the state even for a day, it has to display some kind of state registration. In any event, this is now going beyond the scope of this post (although I'm happy to share my knowledge of NY boat registration rules if anybody is interested).
  2. Wanted to see what folks were doing with respect to displaying state registration. My J/120 is a USCG documented vessel that is also registered in RI. In NY, I understand that I'm required to display a state registration. I'd rather not affix the RI decal and lettering permanently to the topsides. What alternatives are folks using? King board with decal and lettering hung from lifelines or suction-cupped to the inside of a port window? Thanks, Josh
  3. jreisberg

    Marine refrigeration ("happy wife, happy life")

    I think I'm gonna go with the IsoTherm ASU 3701 air-cooled unit, which uses the BD50 compressor and a stainless steel holding plate. USD 1,400. The other BD50 IsoTherm unit (compact 2501) has (I believe) a plastic o-shaped evaporator. That unit can be retrofitted with a smart energy controller to reduce battery usage. But the cost savings as compared to the 3701 doesn't seem to justify the additional kit. Water or keel-cooled is just not an option for me, nor is it necessary in my view for what I'm looking to do with the boat. In comparison, it seems that the BD50 model from SeaFrost seems much more expensive. But without any data suggesting that the SeaFrost is a better product (at over USD 2,000), I think the IsoTherm 3701 is the better choice. Thanks for everybody's thoughts. Happy to keep the discussion going!
  4. jreisberg

    Marine refrigeration ("happy wife, happy life")

    Cool. Thanks. I'm considering SeaFrost. But my understanding is that the base BD system is a a Danfross 35 compressor (not a 50 compressor). The IsoTherm 3701 ASU is less expensive and uses a BD50 compressor. So I'm leaning towards that, with, like the J/109, the compressor in the aft port lazarette (a common place for fridge compressors in a J/120).
  5. jreisberg

    Marine refrigeration ("happy wife, happy life")

    Definitely while underway. So pretty much focused on refrigeration while on the water.
  6. Purchased a new-to-me J/120 (1996) with an 7 cubic foot ice box. As part of my continuing efforts to live by the principle "happy wife, happy life," I'm looking into an ice box to refrigeration conversion kit--all air-cooled (no more thru-hulls!). The models I'm looking at are the SeaFrost BD model, the Isotherm 3701 ASU air-cooled model, and the Frigoboat Capri 35f model. https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2276179|2276204|2276226|2530809&id=58854 http://seafrost.com/BD.html https://www.ahoycaptain.com/frigoboat_E51430.html Any recommendations on which to choose would be greatly appreciated. I understand the Frigoboat model is a well-built device commercialized by a respectable Italian company. I know SeaFrost to be a rugged device made by a respectable NH company. I know Isotherm is widely used. I also know that the SeaFrost and the Frigoboat models were reviewed by Practical Sailor...but back in 2009. Thanks in advance! Josh
  7. jreisberg

    j120 bobstay solution

    Looking for a bobstay solution for a J120 to fly a Code 0 on a 2:1 halyard. Any photos or other information is appreciated. Thanks in advance, Josh
  8. As many of you know, Abilyn--the 21-foot pocket-rocket ocean racer--is for sale. Below is a link to a video that gives a pretty good taste of what we've been doing for the past five seasons, and what somebody can expect if they're intrepid enough to helm Abilyn on her next adventure--that is to say, a cost-effective platform to develop as a shorthanded sailor, and a ton of fun. If that person is you, great! Message me. If not (but you know somebody), let me know and I'll kick USD 1,000 over to you for sending me a willing buyer. I had the listing up on SA classifieds for a while, but took it down because I got no bites. I hope Clean or Scott don't mind me posting this commentary along with my reel. And...when the breeze is on (and from the right direction), she more than holds her own with the big dogs around the race course. In the 2015 Around Long Island Regatta, after a 30+ knot downwind start, we rounded Montauk Light only about an hour behind the 44-foot racing machine, Warrior Won. In the 2017 Vineyard Race, Abilyn finished 3rd in PHRF-doublehanded and 11th overall in PHRF (out of 35 boats) culminating with a epic downwind ride with single-reefed main and Code 5 kite as a 30+ knot easterly rolled down the Sound as night fell. Here are my favorite stats from Vineyard Race: Top speed: 18 knots Avg speed: 15+ knots for 6+ hours through the night in the 30+ knot easterly Elapsed time (238-mile rhumb line course) Abilyn (Pogo 2): 1:14:47:37 Lora Ann (Express 37) (doublehanded): 1:14:03:36 (+ 44 minutes) Helios (SunFast 3600) (doublehanded): 1:13:42:03 (+1 hour, 5 minutes) High Noon (Tripp 41) (crewed): 1:10:13:44 (+4 hours, 34 minutes) E-mail me at josh@abilynsailing.com or contact me via Messenger. More info on the boat at the link below: http://www.abilynsailing.com/pogo2
  9. Looking for recommendations on a dehumidifier to keep a 40-foot boat dry during the season in the northeast. Boat lives on a mooring ball. So I'm looking either for a desiccator-type dehumidifier or one that is powered strictly off solar. Thanks in advance! Josh
  10. jreisberg

    Keel bulb repair on a Pogo2 MiniTransat. Any ideas?

    Ok. So, after much contemplation, all of the epoxy casing around the keel was removed. The idea was that I didn't want to risk other areas of the epoxy casing becoming unbonded from the lead, requiring success repairs. Once the epoxy casing was removed from the keel, we noticed a problem--the bulb was not square with the boat. It was off by what appears to be 3/4". Obviously this has ramifications for sailing, including different stabilities depending on tack. Truth be told, however, I never was able to discern differences between the sailing characteristics of the boat on port versus starboard sufficient to identify an imbalance in the keel bulb alignment as the cause. So now the issue becomes, what to do? The two options that are on the table are (1) fair/reshape the lead bulb to achieve symmetry and skim coat; or (2) obtain the mold that was used to encase the misaligned keel and ensure that at least the water flow across the bulb is identical depending on tack. Submitting to the Court of Public Opinion--any thoughts? Thanks, Josh
  11. jreisberg

    Keel bulb repair on a Pogo2 MiniTransat. Any ideas?

    Love all the tips, guys. Priority number one is to go sailing. I like the idea of removing portions that have poor or no bonding to the lead, and using sheet metal screws to provide additional structural support (like steel rods in concrete). That said, I also like the idea of not having so much damn casing. A project for another season.
  12. jreisberg

    Keel bulb repair on a Pogo2 MiniTransat. Any ideas?

    The boat was built in California. I understand that the casting resin was applied using a mold, which would seem to suggest that the lead bulb is uniform. There's no Classe Mini sailing in the U.S., and I'm happy to modify the bulb to prevent further issues like this. I know others have had difficulty reaching out to Pogo in the past about build issues. But I might check with Groupe Finot. Thanks.
  13. Noticed some cracks in the paint on the bulb. One piece looked like it had a deep crack. Got my knife in there and popped out a few chunks. The lead keel appears to be encased in epoxy, in some areas very thick. No filler. Very brittle, although the bulb shouldn't experience any stress. Any ideas on a repair? Seems like the thick epoxy casing adds only a little weight and a lot of drag. Wondering about removing all epoxy from lead bulb and rebuilding with a lot less thickness. Seems like patching only the areas that have lost bond with the lead is a fool's errand. Thoughts?
  14. jreisberg

    Dear Newport Bermuda Organizing Authority...

    For anybody interested in 6 1/2 minute break on your Monday: http://www.abilynracing.com/the-takedown/2016/7/18/our-journey-to-bermuda Best, Josh