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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About Mikel.Emaldi@esi.es

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  1. Which three Asymmetrics?

    I would say that it depends a lot on the kind of racing (windward-leeward or coastal) and the wind strength, of course. If you race coastal, you would need an A3; not if you only race W-L. In my experience an A3 is a lot more useful than an A0 and can be used a lot more frequently. Certainly an A2. This would be sail #1, except in low wind areas where maybe an A1.5 would be the workhorse. Another sail would be - an A4 or A5 if more coastal than W-L; Racing over 20 kn with the A2 would ruin it. - an A1 or A1.5 if mainly W-L in low winds - the A0 has a very narrow condition; it is a good option once you have all the other sails, which are more widely useful My few cents. Ask your sailmaker ;-)
  2. Inox screws on carbon

    We have a 21 years old carbon mast. We want to replace the spinnaker poner track, which is attached with inox screws. But due to corrosion, I would expect removing them to be pretty close to imposible. Has anybody a good trick to do so? Best,
  3. Broken mainsheet shackle First 405

    I would say that the shackle is over 20 years old. Just replace it every 10 years, and review the rest of the car, since you are at it, new cleats (alu, not plastic or carbon). ANything else would involve more changes.
  4. GPS and Compass in one

    We use the Point-1 with a Lowrance plotter (old) on a Farr45. Works fine.
  5. Question regarding my traveler balls

    if they are White, they are not torlon. change them for torlon (yellowish)
  6. Used 3DL Sails

    The Price you mention appears high. 3DL maintain very good shape, but the lamination is not and fails with time. We did buy a 2nd hand 860 #3 from a Swan45 and we could use it for a couple seasons, not much use since it is a #3 and we sail in a predominantly light wind area. The price of this Swan45 sail was around 2K, while the new sail was around 10K Quantum lamination is a lot tougher. It all depends on what you want, how much modification you need in the sails, etc.
  7. Beneteau 40.7 cockpit boxes

    possibly any of the owners of 40.7 which race has those boxes stored somewhere. In the past they were needed to qualify as cruiser-racer under IMS, but not any longer I believe. They have no use under IRC, and apart from the weight, getting rid of them facilitates moving around.
  8. 3DL sail delam

    Depending on how badly delaminated is, I have been removing the delaminated mylar (small piece) and using either sticky mylar or sticky dacron to adhere to the other side of the sail. It often holds better, plus holds the loaded threads in place. In general, one side of the sail is ok, the other delaminates. But the complete sail collapses, there is no use.
  9. upgrade Square-top mainsail

    Thanks everybody. As rantifarian mentions, we are due for a new mainsail. We already have the backstay winches in place, since got rid of hidraulics some years ago. The idea is to reduce E and total mainsail área a bit (a couple m2, out of 75), set a not excessive HB of 1,2m and appropiate girths (mid pretty much the std IRC width). Ursus: it is not an issue of runners, since the mast has heavily swept back spreaders; they are twin backstays, not runners. We sail W/L and short coastal races. In fact I was surprised since I (inocent me) was expecting a big improvement; you read all those papers and books ... Yet the VPP figures show some improvement both in absolute performance and vs IRC, yet not a big deal. And the improvement is beating, not downwind. Best
  10. upgrade Square-top mainsail

    Anybody has got experience in changing from a pin-head to an square-head mainsail? I am thinking in an oldie, a 1996 Farr45 (ex-Corel). Numbers say that it will provide a small improvement in performance vs hándicap (IRC) but not much. On the other side it will involve a number of inconveniences such as twin backstays, somewhat more complex gybes, etc. cheers,
  11. 3DL Race 600m Opinions?

    I do not believe they make the 600m for a 45. It is for smaller boats. On the other hand we use a light/medium jib built as 600 and it is pretty good, in an olddie 45 Racer. Much better lamination than before.
  12. Ronstan Clear Start Watch

    yeah, me too. Apparently it is no longer an anecdote and becoming systematic.
  13. Dear Jarne, I guess there is no answer to your question. The issue is what do you want it for? If you want a classic, this is one. You've got to asume the cost of restoring, plus the cost of maintenance which is going to be much higher than in a plastic boat. A reasonably maintained First 40.7 would cost 60-80 k€ If your estimation of 12 k for hull repair is correct, either damage is pretty minor or you will fix it yourself. New rod rigging is not that expensive, maybe 5 K, but a new engine is going to be around 8 K, sails, etc. Plus the boat is going to leak endlessly, unless you cover the deck with fiber-epoxi; maybe the hull too ? it is gonna cost.
  14. Gori Racer Prop

    We sail a Farr45 (7 ton) with a Yanmar 47 HP and a Gori Racing 450x330 Motors very well, 7 knot +, and also in reverse ok. Better than with the earlier BriSki, yet with waves against your course you loose speed.
  15. Adding A3 to inventory for a C/R

    If you want to furl the sail, I would advice a small prodder. Without it, it is going to be difficult to fit all things in the bow.