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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

DDW

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  1. It's a manual Fein Multitool. People used to use them before electricity was invented.
  2. Yep a router would be the way to do it if you haven't already cut them out. Clean up the edge of the old one as every bump will be telegraphed through.
  3. I don't know how winglets might best be designed for a sailboat (where added draft from heeling seems to be a key benefit). But on airplanes, they are designed so that their downwash points outboard slightly in an attempt to delay the upward turn of the lift line vortex making the wing look longer to the flow. They are normally not symmetric but a lifting surface. This is on sailplanes anyway and I think the principles are universal. Nobody thinks they are better than a like increase in wingspan, on gliders the function is a rule beater, to get added performance within a wingspan class. In actual testing, you might achieve a 1 or 2% deduction in drag over about a 15 knot speed range and worse elsewhere due to an increase in profile drag. Application in sailboats may be quite different, for one, keels have an extremely low aspect ratio compared to modern sailplanes, so induced drag is a much bigger problem.
  4. A belt sander will work. The trick with Plexi is it has a low melting point, and aggressive sanding will heat it to the melting point, melted bits come off and stick to the belt and then it gets real messy. Much less likely sanding by hand but you can still do it if you are energetic. I would use the belt sander, but go lightly and very intermittently - touch it and back away, then feel the surface. Keep the sander moving very quickly over the surface so you spend very little time in one place. You will quickly get an idea of how long you can contact. Too warm to hold your finger on is too warm. Also, it will disappear very quickly under a belt sander so watch your marks.
  5. This is a key part of my strategy. In a morning charge cycle, freeze the fridge and freezer cold plates, and run the watermaker if needed, while also charging the batteries. The solar then has a chance of finishing the charge tail, because the heavy loads have already been dealt with for the day. My plates were designed to hold over >24 hours worst case. If you have normal compressor refrigeration there is going to be periodic draw throughout the day, and getting the AGMs to 100% will be difficult unless the solar can provide >100% of the compressor current. I'm using the old Glacier Bay Micro system - the compressor draws about 20A on 24V when its running. With LFP there is no point to this, might as well have normal compressor refrigeration along with its better performance.
  6. I am thinking of replacing with crappy flexible panels. They cost about 1/4 what a name brand quality one costs, so if they last half as long they're a good deal.
  7. Regarding solar: there is a tendency to think that these are free, or at least once bought they are free. The problem is the flexible ones are still quite expensive (approx $800/100W for anything of quality) and unfortunately not that long lived. I spent $4800 on flexible solar panels, 3 of the 6 have failed now even though I am on the original AGM Lifeline batteries (which cost $1600). In searching for replacement flexible panels, the warrantees are not comforting - a couple of years is typical and I have yet to see 5 years on any of them. So it becomes a tradeoff between the cost of solar to maintain the AGM batteries properly, and the cost of batteries if you don't. Like batteries you seem to rent them, not buy them, and my experience so far is the rent is higher. Rigid panels seem to last longer and and guaranteed longer, but some of us will not accept the aesthetics that result.
  8. That would be my suggestion. An AC genset charging through an AC charger is pretty inefficient and noisy. To take advantage of the acceptance rate of LFPs you will need a big AC charger. Many AC chargers don't do very well on the really dirty AC put out by small gensets. Big alternators are pretty dirty too - but a large battery makes one hellofa filter cap. My driveline is in line. The vibration comes from the diesel. You only have a power pulse every 180 degrees on a 4 banger so torsional vibration is pretty high. At lower speed with the alternator unloaded I can hear the Spicer splined coupling rattle, even now with the rubber Bulflex at both ends. That's what worked the original coupling loose.
  9. When you navy vets say AIS is off, does that mean stealth mode (no transmit) or turned off (no receive either)? Not sure what the navy budget is, but in retrospect perhaps they should have invested in a $1500 Raymarine chart plotter that would have showed them a picture of exactly who they would hit, and where. I was leaning towards a container ship fault when the time of impact was wrong during what appears to be crazy Ivans, but it looks like they were driving along minding their own business at that time. We know the Fitzgerald's AIS was silent as it does not appear on the published tracks. Confused situational awareness seems likely. The two most congested places I have sailed through at night (Cape Sable and the N channel in the Bahamas) were full of traffic going every which way, some of them in slow turns so you can't really tell if you are going in front or behind till closer than you would like to be, lots of targets to track and guess about. I've only seen cruise ships lit, others not much more than running lights and some (in the Bahamas) completely dark. Does anyone have a link to animated traffic during that period in that area? It must exist, and would highlight how much activity there was.
  10. That is only true if there is a beam constraint. I hard bilge turn, outside of where the chine would have been, has more righting moment still. If the designed max heal places the chine right at the waterline, then some laminate might be saved. But then the chine is going to have to have a very funny shape (reverse sheer with a wiggle at the bow wave?). In the racing crowd, either there is a beam constraint and the chine allows the hull to act like it is wider that it would otherwise (which I think is your point), or the usage profile has a very high percentage of downwind planing, or the designer/owner thought it looked cool.
  11. G-flex would be good as I believe its flexibility survives the thermal stresses better. Plexus would be even better but it is more viscous and would be difficult to flow as you propose. You are thinking correctly to space the inner shaft so that the glue line is even in thickness. I did a similar thing on my boat. It is a rectangular section SS steering post in a rectangular carbon post, buried only about 8", and set in Plexus - but a much bigger boat. Because of the rectangular section the Plexus is not loaded in shear though.
  12. Just because some fast boats have chines, doesn't mean that chines made them fast. The question for Mr. Beiker (or whoever) is, "design a boat with no rules except to be as fast as possible on all points. Will that boat have chines?" I think it more likely that chines might make a boat faster that is constrained by rules, cost, crew weight, accommodation, styling, marketing, or other. The primary reason we see them on cruiser racers is they contribute to sales. History has proven that the yacht buying masses are slavish to style, and style is set by elite racers even though the solutions applied there may be irrelevant in other contexts.
  13. That's the problem. With the plastic, you aren't testing strength. You are testing coverage. That's why you cut it apart lengthwise - to have a look. The viscosity of even pretty thin epoxy will not let it be drawn 18" down a narrow gap, sliding one surface over the other. That's where my money is. You can probably come up with a way to vacuum it in, or as I suggested before pump it in with a grease gun. I'm betting against slathering it on one surface and somehow that surface pulls it 18 inches past another one. If its that thin, then you could also put a plug in the SS pipe, fill it up with epoxy, and jam the bronze in there letting the epoxy pour out. Then you know its covered. But it will be tough to do, again because of the viscosity of the epoxy. Maybe with some heavy weights and a long time. Try it with plastic. I don't think having fiberglass in there will do much to increase shear strength. The weak link regardless will be the surface bond to the metals. There is plenty of area, if you can get it reasonably clean and get it covered.
  14. I will admit I have never used #6 to through bolt anything on my 45 footer. I have used plenty of #6, #8, and #10 fasteners, but deal with them by bonding in a threaded G10 tube insert. For larger fasteners (say 1/4 - 20 and up) one widely accepted method is to chuck a bent nail or a small allen key in a drill, put it into the hole, and pulverize the core. Plywood is harder to pulverize, it helps to sharpen the end of the bent leg. The normal sequence for me is: drill a hole the right size and location through the top skin and core, stopping before going through the bottom skin. Using a bent tool (the bent leg will be about the diameter of the hole) reef out the core. Pay attention to getting as much as possible off the inner and outer skin so the epoxy bonds to that, rather than left over bits of core stuck to it. Fill with epoxy. West Six 10 works very well for this. When filling, fill starting from the bottom so you don't just have a huge air bubble. Let it go off, return and redrill the same location all the way through. Variations on this are, drill all the way through then tape over the bottom hole to fill with epoxy. Some fill from the bottom, as it is easier to get rid of the air. The Six 10 (which comes in a caulking tube) has thickeners and will not run back out the hole unless it is really large. It's good on vertical surfaces too because it will not run. Otherwise you can use a syringe to fill the hole by sticking it down to the bottom skin and withdrawing as you fill it, or fill it through the bottom hole if you get the consistency right. If you have a bunch to do, get them all ready and use the Six 10 with the mixing tube, its $20 a tube but that will do a lot of them, and quickly. At normal temps it has a long gel time so you don't have to hurry too much. For small fasteners I would use the method I described here. I'm afraid most builders would simply drive in a #6 sheet metal screw, but it will eventually cause problems.
  15. It is driven at crank speed, but one of the features of the Electrodyne is it is up to full output at around 2000 rpm. It will put out over 200A at 1700. At 1300 the field is drawing more than it produces.