DDW

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About DDW

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  1. I don't think it would "self polish". It seems pretty hard. You can rub it with your fingers and get a bit to some off. I put Micron CSC on the sailboat one year, supposed to self polish and eventually ablate away so you didn't have to sand. It didn't do either, nor did it keep the sealife off. I had to spend 30 hours labor sanding it off. But the Eco goes on much smoother than either Micron CSC or Pettit Trinidad. On both of those, I rolled and tipped, which makes it a bit smoother than just rolling. The Eco flattens out after rolling without the tipping better than the tipped CSC or Trinidad. Quite smooth the first coat, and then progressively lumpier on coats 2 and 3 but still not bad. Plus we didn't thin or spray surface with water which is supposed to help. It seemed to use more material with each coat, 1st one less than a gallon, 2nd a little more than a gallon, 3rd about a gallon and a quart. You are supposed to apply it as thin as possible, important to make the surface active they say. The selling point for the Eco for me was it can be left out of the water indefinitely, and their recommended recoat is to pressure wash, then paint - no sanding. The no stink and flat application were plusses. The cost is at least as much as others, not cheap.
  2. DDW

    Dark side

    I went down this thought process recently, didn't give up sailing but bought a powerboat for the PNW. Lots more room aboard and more comfortable live aboard. Fuel costs on a trawler not that big a deal, an argument can be made that fuel is cheaper than sails. If you want serious coastal capability though, you need something with stabilizers, either fins or fish. In a smallish size that means a Nordhavn or Kadey Krogen, and on a budget that means an older KK. There was a very nice custom aluminum job with fish up in Anacortes, not too badly priced considering, can't find it now so maybe gone. A Nordic tug or American tug or many other powerboats can and do go up and down the coast, but you are looking for very settled weather to do it. In any seaway or weather, I'd rather be in a 22' sailboat than my 34' American Tug. For toodling around SF bay I'd think a small sailboat much preferable to a powerboat - there is always wind and always a bit of chop, both favor sail.
  3. DDW

    SiriusXM Weather Receiver for PC

    You can find the MFD specific receivers on eBay, sometimes pretty cheap. A possible alternative without as much information is the inReach marine weather forecast. No doppler and no buoy reports though. But a lot cheaper.
  4. Photo is from July 18. It was still sitting in exactly the same place in November. The fact that it was put up for sale seems to me means there is a clear title to it. As A friend of mine was fond of saying in these situations, you could commission another one, then you could have two: "one to shit in, one to cover it up with".
  5. But "Northern Marine" means basically nothing? Different NAs, different work force and management, rented the brand bu new people, etc. This particular one went on a 100 ft shakedown/rollover cruise.
  6. DDW

    Bronze alloys in seawater

    When you buy "bronze" these days, hard to know what you are getting unless you have it tested. Too much ersatz stuff around, even from some reputable suppliers. I'd use SS or Monel.
  7. I put Pettit Eco on the powerboat, sanded to the gel coat first though. It sticks pretty good to a well prepares surface. It also lays on pretty flat and doesn't stink at all. Haven't tried any other water based, but the Eco went well enough I'm contemplating converting over on the sailboat too.
  8. DDW

    Epoxies in the winter...

    West for example says 1-4 days, but that is at ordinary temperatures. They also say that once "solid" it has achieved about 90% strength, with the additional 10% in the final cure. They claim their fast hardener will cure at temps as low as 35 deg. System3 makes a cold cure version that is supposed to do the same. From experience, I know that a period of cold followed by heat will continue the cure - whether that has an effect on ultimate strength, I don't know.
  9. DDW

    Epoxies in the winter...

    I've done structural repair with epoxy in 10 deg weather. You just need to keep in warm enough for long enough to cure. I would get everything to a reasonably warm temp - near what you are going to cure at - before starting, because the viscosity of the epoxy will thin as it warms, so if you lay it up pretty cold then heat, you may end up with it all running off onto the floor. Best not to have it changing radically during the process so you know how it will behave. Heat lamps, cardboard boxes with heaters or heat guns running into them, old style halogen work lamps, propane infrared heaters - all can work, just monitor carefully unless the boat is well insured against fire. If it's just some small holes, with some patience and a heat gun you can have it gelled in 20 minutes. But for a full cure you want it warm for a few hours.
  10. Even with the top floor hacked off with a chainsaw, it looks like it might topple in a stiff south wind, sitting on the hard:
  11. DDW

    Recommend a ratchet crimper

    Which is why Amp recommends not using ratchet crimpers when doing hundreds of crimps.
  12. DDW

    Recommend a ratchet crimper

    At last some sense. Yes many (but not all) mil spec crimpers are ratchet. Once the properly designed and adjusted crimper is matched to the terminal, then the ratchet can be the idiot light so that it can be operated reliably by idiots - this is their purpose. It is not required to make a good crimp with proper tools. You don't have a ratchet on a proper nicopress tool, how do you know you've completed the swage? Take a look through Tico/Amp's literature for crimp terminals, even the common ones, and tell me how many different tools they reference. There isn't one size that fits all. If using questionable or unknown tools, cross examination is a good idea, in fact it's a good idea even with known tools and terminals.
  13. DDW

    Recommend a ratchet crimper

    Sorry, but that's bullshit. A ratchet is like an idiot light. When it blinks green you think the world is golden. The ratchet on any decent set can be adjusted to anything you like, and should be adjusted for each individual size and brand of terminator. In fact in mil spec and aerospace work, it is required that they be checked and adjusted periodically, after first being calibrated to the wire size and terminator specifics (and that's for the $500 ones, not the $20 ones). Anybody who says that you've got a good crimp when the ratchet stops clicking on your Home depot plier on a brand X terminator using brand Y wire and jaw Z, is ....well... uninformed. You can sometimes get an OK crimp on cheap crimpers and random terminators, with or without ratchets. Don't try to get it past a NASA cert test though.