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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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  1. Anomaly is 45' on deck. Sadly, many of the threads discussing features of the boat have been spoiled by the greed of Photobucket. If there is anything specific you would like to know, please ask and I will try to answer.
  2. PSS Dripless Shaft Seals: Pros/Cons/Experiences?

    The PSS I had did not leak. Not a little bit - not at all. That's a big practical difference compared to "drips like a packing gland". Especially in a V drive (which my boat had) getting access to it to adjust the packing gland was a PITA.
  3. PSS Dripless Shaft Seals: Pros/Cons/Experiences?

    I had one on my last boat for 15 years, and it worked great. In addition to burping after a splash, I highly recommend burping (or rather "unsticking") the carbon bellows bearing from the sealing face after the boat hasn't been run for a few weeks. If you watch, you will see that after a few weeks the two surfaces stick together a bit. Corrosion or just dried salt? I don't know but if you rotate the shaft by hand you will see it torque the bellows 10 or 15 degrees before it unsticks and turns freely. If you do that by just banging the engine into gear, it happens very quickly and you won't see it. This can't be kind to the bellows. All you have to do is grab the bellows and give it a little wiggle to free it. They you're good to go again.
  4. Snubbed

    I run the chain hook in right over the bow roller where I can just reach down and unhook it. It can go out that way too. Big bow roller probably makes a difference, around 6" diameter. I've never had it come off the chain when I didn't want it to. But I don't use it once the chain is all out (150').
  5. That had to be one deep draft Sea Tow boat. Don't think I've ever seen one with 9 ft draft.
  6. OK, I sort of get it, now

    Not going to help, they only want brain.
  7. E-nav on the cheap

    I find that NOAA charts don't work very well outside of US waters. They do have the advantage of being completely blank there, so you are never lost.
  8. OK, I sort of get it, now

    I think you could survive the cold up north with proper clothing, but you can't survive the wet. Getting wet up there is a one way trip without heat: things get wet and never dry out. In Desolation on our way to the Boughtons a couple of years ago, we ran across two Irish blokes in a 19' open sailboat intending to head around Vancouver Island, then maybe to Alaska, they said. They seemed to survive by smoking a pack of cigarettes every few minutes.
  9. OK, I sort of get it, now

    We have a freezer onboard, it is separate from the fridge and can be turned off if not wanted. It consumes about 1.5x the energy of the fridge. Around civilization I'll often keep it turned off for that reason, but away from civilization it sure is nice. Once you eat your way through it, you shut it off. Or if I'm motoring a lot anyway (like you do in the PNW), keep it running to make ice for the drinks.
  10. Deck Fittings in to cored deck

    Tapping thickened epoxy can work OK. Screwing self tapping screw in it sometimes make it crumble, as self tapping screws expect the material to be malleable rather than frangible. I think this is the reason West recommends casting them in.
  11. Deck Fittings in to cored deck

    Give it a moment? not sure why they don't appear, could be working their way through the cache at the host.
  12. Deck Fittings in to cored deck

    To be clear, the issue you will have with a hatch is getting the inserts positioned correctly. Unlike a sloppy through hole, with threaded inserts they have to be on position or they won't go in. I'd either make a template as above, or use the hatch itself, with longer fasteners and standoffs, to be able the clean up as it goes off. Here's an example of setting that up: I've used a delrin standoff, nylon or HMWPE would also work, you want something that won't stick to the epoxy so it can be removed. It'll look like this when done: https://s26.postimg.org/4fagce6d5/G10_9.jpg
  13. Deck Fittings in to cored deck

    I do that a lot. I posted a thread about it, but Photofucket managed to screw it up with their extortion campaign. I'll resurrect it here: I use G10 tubing (available from McMaster and others), drilled and threaded for the fastener. At a length of about 2x diameter or more, these will be as strong as the fastener for small fasteners. One problem you can run into with threaded inserts made from tube is that you are usually trying to match a bolt pattern in a piece of hardware, so no shift of the insert during bonding is allowed. Here is how I handle that: make a thin base for the piece of hardware out of G10 sheet, can be as thin as 1/32 or more if you are trying to space it up or strengthen the area. Use the hardware as a drilling template and drill the G10. Now use the G10 as a drilling template to pilot the holes in the deck. Then drill out the deck holes through the near skin only. Use an allen key with the leg cut off to about the diameter of the hole chucked in a drill motor to pulverize the core, and vacuum it out. You want to make sure the core is cleaned as completely as possible from the skins, so that the epoxy you are going to put in adheres to the skins, not remnants of core. You want radial clearance under the hole of about 1x the diameter of the hole (core hole is 3x the skin hole). With a tiny bit of quick epoxy, glue the inserts to the G10 template. Tiny bit of epoxy to keep from gluing the bolts in. You know they are in the right place and aren't going to shift. This is just to hold them in place until the bonding is done. Decore the deck and clean the surface. In the picture I have carefully sanded the finish (non-skid) down to the fiberglass matching the outline of the part. This can be done with the quick mount Dremel sanding disks, which give you excellent control for this kind of thing. You can make the holes just big enough for the inserts, preserving as much skin laminate as possible. But I use the dremel to make a small dent in the side of each hole to let the air and excess epoxy out when you seat the insert assembly. It is tightly masked to make cleaning up easier. I screw the bolts in to near the bottom of the thread, then put a little hot melt glue in the end to keep the epoxy out of the threads - you can see it here. West Six10 is ideal for this use. Use their nozzle, and attempt to fill the hole from the bottom drawing the nozzle out as you go to minimize air pockets. Push the assembly in, clean to the edge and wait for it to go off. Then mount up the hardware and go sailing. You can use the actual part as well, standing off the inserts with delrin tube or something the epoxy won't stick too. But the part is then in the way of cleaning up. Done this way, the core is perfectly sealed, there is no need for access to the inside or cosmetic issues created there, and it is nearly as strong as thru bolting. It will never leak to the inside. If any of the G10 inserts was ever to get stripped, you can just drill them out and glue in a new one.
  14. OK, I sort of get it, now

    ...and it would be melted by the time you got back to the boat. Coastal cruising in Maine and the East coast is pretty comfortable and easy. Harbors of refuge only a few miles apart, well stocked grocery stores and restaurants close at hand. You can tow your dinghy, no need to ship it most of the time. The biggest hardship is the lobster buoys. For that use, I'd ditch the watermaker for sure, probably the freezer, and maybe even the fridge. I'd still want the hot shower and the bikes are pretty useful. Go north to Newfoundland, or south to the Bahamas, and all those things become pretty useful. Ice can be days away, water too and will cost you $0.50/gallon.