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517 F'n Saint

About DDW

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  1. DDW

    G10 backing plates, tapped, w/o nuts?

    I'd hesitate a little on life dependent stuff. But test it, before you dismiss it for everything.
  2. DDW

    Galvanic intrigue

    On the jacket anchor, on my circa 2006 Volvo came with a molded plastic piece which insulates it. Take a look at this link, the parts are items 6, 7, & 8, all plastic and inexpensive from Volvo. It captures the groove on the Morse jacket, my engine had the same parts on both engine and transmission ends. There is a deep groove on my Morse cable jacket which the plastic bit captures, probably that indent in your U strap does the same thing. If the bolt spacing is the same, you should be able to retrofit these bits. I did not measure the bolt spacing. I could duplicate them by 3D printing, but at that price it isn't worth the CAD time. I found the cable and the jacket to be essentially shorted, zero ohms. I got 180 ohms between the cable and jacket and the engine. The cable terminator in the same diagram shows item 3 "spacer washer". That looks a bit like the engine end on mine, though it feels to me more like a standard cheap rubber grommet, quite soft, and I'd think easily worn through. In this link, the same jacket retainer is shown, but a different cable termination (item #21), very similar to what I have on my saildrive. There isn't enough length on the stud to insulate it with bushings. Could make a new one with a longer stud, drill out the hole it goes in and make some insulating bushings. I'd probably make the bushings from PEEK, which should last the life of the boat. The shift lever on my saildrive has plenty of steel around it to take a bushing. An alternative would be to make the terminator out of G10 rod, I think you'd still want a plastic bushing or the G10 will wear the hole it turns in. I think the easiest is a new brass fitting. If I start making them, 2 more is almost as easy as one more. Once the CNC program is written, I just push the green button again.... Do you have a picture of your cable terminator?
  3. DDW

    Galvanic intrigue

    Did it look like this (transmission end)? Gotta figure out an insulated one. Might make two if you are interested.
  4. Years ago I measured the halyard tension on my Nonsuch 30 at about 900 lbs. with a load cell. I could crank the winch to over 1000, but it would just relax within a minute or two as the sail stretched. Of course a wishbone rig will have a lot of tack tension as the foot is effectively the vang. A bit different with the inverted hydraulic vang, but I think the square head changes everything too. The pictures I've seen of wishbone rigs and square heads did not have enough leech tension, obvious from the large amount of sail twist. It would take an extreme wishbone angle to make it work well - or a discrete vang line.
  5. DDW

    Galvanic intrigue

    And Max wins the door prize and the Toaster Oven! Checked everything today against a silver chloride half cell. Transmission at 1.027V, perfect for zinc. But engine at 1.024V. The shift cable sheath has a nonconductive anchor, but no attempt by Volvo at all on the cable termination, a piece of brass. On the engine, cable termination is (was?) isolated with a soft rubber grommet, may have worn through. Disconnected cable from transmission, engine now reads 0.55V. 180 ohm reading between shift cable and engine. Now open between transmission and engine. Green wire, engine, raw water strainer, all 0.55V (should be the same as they are all bonded). Dock green 0.454V, no current AC or DC reading between dock green and boat green. Still a bit curious about the dock green reading (all voltages are negative). So it all kind of makes sense now, going to have to machine up an insulated shift cable termination. No great place to mount a 3600W transformer without fair effort, but it looks like I can find a way to get an extension cord through the drop boards, and other boats in the marina are doing this. I'm probably going to put in the diode galvanic isolator, and use an extension cord directly to the dehumidifier which has no downside.
  6. DDW

    It's not a bug, it's a feature

    They could do more to earn our respect by refraining (for example) from dropping traps in the middle of marked channels, or directly along a fuel dock, or 5' from my anchored stern (all of which I have observed). Avoiding them is a learned skill - provided they aren't pulled under by current, or invisible in the night, so not so close together that the beam of the boat will not fit between them. In those cases it is pure luck. Lobstering in Maine is a farming or ranching operation, not fishing, on land they do not own. In Maine (state population 1.3 million), there are 3 million lobster traps licensed.
  7. Not an expert, only an astute observer. It appears that the halyard tension is almost entirely resolved in leech tension (or on a line between head board and clew). The predicted loads on my sail were 5000 lbs halyard, 4000 lbs clew, and a couple of hundred tack. When actually under sail, the clew download can be read from the pressure gages on the vang, and it is somewhat less than predicted, maybe a bit over 3000 lbs. at the point we reef. No gage on the halyard but I had to go up to 9mm 12 strand spectra on the 2:1 halyard and it still stretches plenty. Raising sail, I tension the the halyard against the tack line with full weight on a 56 winch (and 2:1 tackle) with the last bit between the halyard conduit and the winch striking about and "A" on the scale when plucked. Probably is 2000 lbs or more so 4000 on the sail head (and tack line). As soon as we bear away and the vang comes on, I can go forward and unload the tack line with my hands - <50 lbs., all the load has been taken by the leech. The battens - especially the top 3 - have amazing compression in them. It was one of those that went through heavy spectra webbing. My boat might be a little different as the unstayed mast forms a bendy rig. Mast head will bend aft 1 - 2' when fully powered. Does that unload the tack? Don't know.
  8. If only those facilities are available....also there is the issue of length on a trailer - the whole zipped assembly is just under 8 meters long. I remember when my masts were being made at Composite engineering, there was a delay because the braiding machine was tied up building a new batten for a broken one on the Mirabella V. 27 meters long that batten was. So all problems are relative.
  9. Don't know how long the drive is, but my guess would be, a well motivated and knowledgable crew of 5 might take a couple of hours each way. That'd be 20 man hours.
  10. It is not practical to disassemble the sail on deck, so my procedure is to zip up the stackpack, disconnect everything, tie the spare halyard around it 5 feet aft of the luff, tie the mizzen staysail halyard to the clew, then hoist it like a lanced whale and swing it to the dock. With the trips up the mast, about 1.5 - 2 hours into it now. On the dock pull all the battens out, flake it, brick it, bag it. Tip it up on end and get the dock cart standing up behind, then tip it into the dock cart, hope it is high tide going up the ramp. Figuring in one or two beers and lunch, it's about 5-6 hours total. On the last boat with a 600 sq ft main, cross cut dacron, pinhead with normal battens, about 70 lbs, I could have it in the car in 35 minutes without a rush. The main on Endeavor would probably be a bit of work.
  11. DDW

    It's not a bug, it's a feature

    I don't know, but in practice they are not accountable. I'd have a more sympathetic attitude if they showed the slightest restraint, but sadly no. Middle of channels, strewn through anchorages, carpet bombed around fuel docks. I'd suggest routine mine sweeping of channels and anchorages. The gear costs money, and if they lose enough of it perhaps they'd learn.
  12. We've already covered the sailmaker yard. Some manufacturers seem to quote the as delivered weight, others do not specify. However this is one of my primary questions: are the corner patches, reef patches, bolt rope and hardware 50% of the weight? That would mean that even big savings on the cloth yields small rewards. Unless fancy sail construction eliminates these, which I have not seen.
  13. DDW

    Dyneema lifelines

    Thing is, rust and C.C. reduce the strength of SS lifelines, and the damage is usually as hidden. I used NER Endura 8mm on my uppers, new strength 14,500 lbs. Should be adequate, even with a little UV thrown in. Haven't worried much about running the genoa sheet over them.
  14. DDW

    Galvanic intrigue

    Through discounters, the Charles is only a little more than the Victron, but I'd go with the Victron as it is dual voltage. I have a 2500W Mastervolt inverter, and routinely run shop vac, sanders, and everything else from it. Solar recharges the batteries. This for 11 years. But running a dehumidifier 24/7 the solar will not keep up. For that use, even a small isolation transformer would work, I think 500VA would do. I might consider building a box for one of those, add 5A breakers on the out, and leave it on the dock. They can be had on ebay for $100-200.
  15. DDW

    It's not a bug, it's a feature

    I wish many, many more would sail through the infested waters of Maine, using their kelp cutter liberally and often.