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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

95Terp

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About 95Terp

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  1. 30-35 ft sprit boat - up to 75K

    There's no doubt that the 105 is a good and popular boat, but the 10R is a much better boat than it gets credit for with those that aren't familiar with it. The numbers don't tell the whole story. We've been sailing ours for years and I can tell you that on a W/L course I like my chances against a 105. If it's blowing 8 or less, I really like my chances. I fully admit that it doesn't seem like it should be based strictly on the numbers, but I will tell you it is a very fast light air boat. Also, not sure where you pulled the kite sizes from but our A2 is 102m2...
  2. Regarding the rig setup question - we sailed for years with the mast butt in the aft position, but after switching to the larger rudder we are going faster with it back in the center hole. The rudder isn't a cure-all, but it sure helps add some control and make the boat a bit more user-friendly. Arced is absolutely right though - the main trimmer is steering the boat upwind, so you need a good one...
  3. For anyone that's not on our email list, we have put together a Facebook group to chat, share info, etc. Search for Beneteau First 10r/34.7 Owners Group and ask to join. I think it has potential to be a great resource for us all.
  4. A couple more questions while we have some dialogue going: - Has anyone replaced their saildrive membrane? How hard was it? I assume the fairing plate on the outside of the hull needs to come off - is that possible without destroying it? Any tips? - How about removing the pole for recoating? How do you access the purchase inside the tube to replace the line and/or shockcord?
  5. The jib track in this picture is non-standard for example: https://www.facebook.com/Baltic.Offshore.Week#!/passione.sailing/photos/pcb.843626145657147/843624775657284/?type=1&theater
  6. No takers on my jib-reaching question? Are we alone in our plight?
  7. Those B.O.W. pictures are interesting - I noticed the multiple sets of jib tracks on the side of the coachroof most of the 34.7's have added. I presume these are in place of the standard inhaulers? Also looked like additional outboard tracks for reaching?
  8. Must be the angle - it looks much smaller than I'm used to. The Farr office recommends a max size of 102 m2. Anything over that probably isn't helping much, but shouldn't be hurting you either until the wind gets up and you start spinning out. Yeah - planing isn't gonna happen. It will move pretty good under the right conditions, but a sportboat it is not. We spent a whole day doing between 10 and 14, but it was blowing 25ish and there were decent swells to surf. The wheel gives a good shoulder workout under those conditions, and we averaged about one wipeout per hour...
  9. Nice video NOR. Two observations - you should have your trimmer get where he can see the luff of the sail by cross-sheeting to the windward secondary winch. Second - maybe it's the angle, but I don't think there's any way that sail is 110 m2. It looks like a little A3 reacher to me...?
  10. Anyone have any secrets for white-sail reaching? We consistently find that we do well in windward/leeward work, but then hemorrhage time quickly if the course has any extended close to beam reaching if it's too breezy to carry a kite. I have been wondering if the larger rudder would help with this issue as it would allow us to carry more power with better control. I have noticed that I have trouble holding a consistent course and probably carry too much weather helm. We have learned to depower quickly going upwind to balance the helm, but maybe are just not doing it as well reaching.
  11. Are you sure your instruments are reading correctly? Our's sometimes read a knot or so low when the paddle wheel is fouled even the slightest bit...
  12. [Have the, (I believe original), Harken roller headstay arrangement that can not be tuned, as far as I can find out, unfortunately. It sounds like sense to tighten the headstay in more wind to keep center of effort fwd.] Actually you can still access the turnbuckle to tighten the headstay, though it's a bit of a pain. There's a large pin at the base of the furling unit that holds it down, and some set screws that hold the foil in place at the top of the unit. If you loosen these and let the foil drop down, and pull that pin, you can lift the whole mess up enough to adjust the tension. It takes a few minutes, but it can be done...
  13. The tuning information available for the boat is somewhat sparse, but with some searching you can piece together some good tips. The boat that won Key West in '07 talked about making that specific change to better balance the helm and improve upwind speed. In addition, changing headstay tension agressively according to conditions is the biggest rig adjustment that you should be making. We never change the sidestay tension more than a turn or two, but you can go up to several inches on the headstay to pull the rig forward when it's blowing. It can take some time to get sorted, but once you get dialed in, the boat really goes well. Also, it definitely pays to depower early and to be quick on dumping the traveller. I have the main trimmer keep an eye on the helm and if I have more than a few inches of weather helm on the wheel, he's putting on backstay and easing the traveller. Dragging the rudder sideways is slow...