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About Reht

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  1. Reht

    Kingston Ontario regatta advice

    Having done Kingston many times as an athlete, coach, support, etc. I'm hoping I can lend some advice. Public transit exists, it's usable, but it's not super regular (sort of half-way between your European experiences and American systems). We relied on cars when we had to move a lot of people and equipment, otherwise we walked, took bicycles, skateboards, whatever. The parking lot at the venue fills reasonably quickly during events, so if you drive it's a good idea to go down early. Housing is a mix, the best bet for a youth event is the Queens University dorms, their western campus dorms are a couple minutes walk from the venue, the main campus is maybe a mile further down the road but has generally nicer buildings (I think St Lawrence College rents dorm rooms, but it's been over a decade since I stayed there). It's a university town, so during the summer there's more AirBnB and short term rental options if you're willing to rent a student house. Weather can be anything. I've seen drifters, I've seen thunder storms throwing boats around the yard, and everything in between. The prevailing winds in the summer are SW, and big wind days are fueled by a thermal effect (only really kicks if it's hot and sunny, but when it kicks in you'll not be wanting for wind). The understood weather pattern is a light SW building through the day as the thermal gets going, the thermal causes a massive left-hand bend the closer you are to the island (on the south side of the racing area). In those conditions you go left, keep going left, then tack straight to the windward mark with the rest of the fleet. The forecasts sometimes struggle to predict the thermal as it is a local phenomenon. But you can get a cool northerly or the odd easterly, and that throws everyone for a loop. Temps can be anything from ~20C to well in the 30s, it's fairly variable even day-to-day, so pack something warm (a thin wetsuit is plenty), something cool (shorts and a rash guard), and lots of water and sun cream. Food (and other things): there's plenty of restaurants in the town center, there's also a few reasonably big grocery stores near the university area, so if you have cooking facilities there's no shortage of food. Shops are generally centered around the downtown area, but there is some basics available near the venue like a pharmacy virtually on-site, boat repair shop not too far away (I think, again it's been a while since I used them), and the Portsmouth Tavern across the road that Mustang alluded to. The local sail loft (Kingston Sail Loft) has been exceptionally helpful in my experience getting sails back together during events should disaster strike. Note that the venue is almost certainly NOT Kingston Yacht Club, it will be at Portsmouth Olympic Harbour (the venue for the 1976 olympic sailing) which is down the street. At least that's where they generally host major events, there's a lot more space and facilities there than at the yacht club. Kingston is one of my favourite places to race, especially dinghies. You won't regret going.
  2. Reht

    Club 420 Sail Numbers

    Isn't the club 420 sail number just the hull number (generally part of the serial number if you don't know it)? That's all I've ever seen. And I don't think I've even ever seen a club 420 with a country code since they are only sailed in USA and CAN.
  3. Just go earlier in this thread, Dave talked about foiling gybes a number of times. I think there was a time he reported to have foiling tacked (though I don't think there was any video of it, there is of the gybes).
  4. Reht

    Countdown to an RS700

    DTA, definitely try the kite. As a lot of people have pointed out, the boat is meant to go downwind and be balanced with it up, it makes everything easier downwind. Especially downwind in skiffs the rule is that the faster you're going the easier everything is. To get the kite down when capsized obviously the easiest place to grab is when the boat is on its side, but often boats don't want to stay that way. doing the "bring it up part way then dash to pull some kite in" is really slow and tiring, I'd recommend you see if you can find a way to douse from the board or sitting on the gunwale. When I've seen people bring a boat up from a capsize with the a-sail still hoisted it has almost always lead to damage. The least of your worries is that the water load just tears the kite at its weakest point, the worst is if you run an internal halyard and pull the block at the top out of the mast, the halyard will try to slice open the mast. The more comfortable you get on the wire to move around the easier the boat will be to sail, with enough time it should just become second nature to move your weight around to match the conditions. As you get faster keep your head out of the boat, anticipating gusts, lulls, waves, etc is easier and faster than reacting.
  5. You leave it there while sailing. Soak the progrip when you launch and it's slippery enough that you can push down the rudder and it'll just slide down.
  6. Reht

    moving up from a 420

    Car top it. I've done it many times, a lot of people without a trailer find that it's the easiest way to do it. Just make sure your car racks are wide enough or else get some 2x4s to strap on to the car rack to get some additional width.
  7. I had the chance to try a UFO on Sunday, Merde2 took the time to show me around the boat and let me go for a ride. I only had about 45 minutes of time to play in the prevailing 11-12 knot conditions, so my experience was reasonably limited. I'm 100kg, 197cm (6'5"ish), putting me at the heavier end of the spectrum. Most of my previous dinghy experience is in high performance boats, 29er, 49er, IC, etc. Here's what I found from my quick experience: Leaving the harbour was a deep reach, I left the main foil all the way up and put the rudder about half way down. This provided plenty of steerage once the boat was going, and was quite easy to get around. Sailing with just the rudder down you have to be reasonably careful not to load up the rig too much (especially on reaches and runs) as the nose will go straight under quite quickly once there's pressure in the top of the rig pushing forwards. Deploying the foils once out in the open was really easy, getting the retaining pin into the main foil was probably the hardest part and that only took about 15 seconds. In big waves this might be a little more difficult if the waves are washing over the deck. Once I was sailing (took longer to back the boat out of irons than to deploy the foils) it took under a minute to get into what Dave has described as the "foil assist" mode, the hull was just barely in the water and occasionally clearing completely in the flat spots. We had the ride height and AoA of the foils all set pretty low to make it easy for my first time in a foiling boat. Less than a minute from the foil assist state I was up in the air totally clear of the waves. It's a neat experience, the acceleration is not too crazy (nothing like a 49er going around the top mark and setting the kite), the stability on the foils felt solid (not like a narrow IC skittering along), and the silence slicing through the water was fantastic. OF course, I only stayed up there for a minute or two reaching out into the lake before I unceremoniously put it down so I could take a quick swim. Capsize recovery was easier than almost any boat I've ever sailed on. The little handles on the undersides make it really easy to flip upright, and with my weight it took virtually no effort once I got to the underside of the boat. Only frustration was that there's no easy way to dry capsize the boat like a traditional dinghy (where you can climb into the boat as it recovers), it's too wide to climb over the hull and comes up too quickly/easily to give you time anyway. That might prove to be a problem when it gets really cold out, but then I'd refer people to the clothing discussion above. Getting back on the boat was quite easy as the floating platform felt more like climbing onto a low-lying dock than a sailboat. Overall, I was impressed, if I had an empty spot in the garage I'd have a boat on order ASAP. For now I'll be trying to steal as many rides as possible. It is so much easier to foil the boat than I expected, but you have to be dead flat if not healed slightly to windward for the foils to work. And body placement seems to play a huge role in getting the balance right for takeoff and then once in the air. The boat accelerates so smoothly you almost forget to sheet in to account for the apparent wind (if you forget, you may quickly find yourself back at sea level). I didn't manage to do much more than reach back and forth (I got upwind a bit up on the foils, but not enough to go around a course), but it was a fantastic ride. My only gripe with the boat in the short ride I had was that the hiking straps are tiny. I could hardly get a single foot under each strap, and once locked in I'm not sure I'd be able to get out in a crash. But I have big feet, Dave and Merde2 don't, so I'll let that pass as a personal adjustment. Well done Dave, you've produced a fantastic little sailboat. I can't wait to see them out in fleets!
  8. Reht

    Looking for 420's

    If you are close to the US border, I would suggest you contact the regional high school and collegiate teams. Often they will do full-fleet replacements. Do note that these boats would be collegiate 420s, same as a club 420 but without any rigging for trapeze, spinnaker, etc. If you want a club 420 for a youth race team, then finding batches of them used is more difficult and you may have to resort to buying them one at a time. The only places I can think of that might recycle fleets of club 420s are the big yacht clubs with competitive teams, Toronto is probably where you could start looking locally. If you want an international 420 (which is the 420 raced by everyone else in the world) then you're going to have a tough time in NA as they are few and far between.
  9. Reht

    Traffic at the Mark

    Welcome to sailboat racing! Marks are some of the more complex situations rules-wise since you have boats converging and all trying to get to the same place at the same time. You'll get a better answer (and, since you get what you pay for around here, a fair amount of crap answers) if you post in the "Sailing Anarchy" part of the forum. The rules are the same whether you're sailing a laser or a foiling america's cup boat, so any questions you may have should be able to be answered by anyone who knows the rules. As for rules around mark rounding, the safest way to approach a mark is (obviously) alone. When you are coming in with others there are a lot of rules that start to coincide, the 3 "primary" right of way rules (starboard/port, windward/leeward, clear astern/ahead) always function, then there's Rule 18 from the Racing Rules of Sailing which deals with rights of boats at the mark (room to round the mark, etc), and rarely some other rules can influence a situation. It's difficult to describe (especially in just words) all the possible variations of these rules in situations, so the easiest questions to answer will tend to be particular situations that occur in races. If you want an overview and simplified explanation of the rules there are a handful of authors who publish guides to the rules and the interpretations (I can't recall all the names right now, so somebody else will have to fill that in). It generally leads to a bit of reading to get an understanding and it takes lots of water time to get comfortable enough to just know what the right thing to do is, so stick to it. Definitely at least read through part 2 of the rules (it's only a few pages of the book and covers almost everything you'll encounter), if you find a book that explains the rules that you like, then all the better. And if you have questions after racing, talk to fellow racers, generally they will be willing to guide you through situations. Or, alternatively, post a thread about confusing situations in Sailing Anarchy and you'll get something of an answer. There are plenty of threads there all the time discussing situations and rule applications.
  10. Reht

    Thin skinned repair

    I've got a question that doesn't relate to sailboats, but it is fixing a glass/carbon boat that has some (extensive) damage. To explain the situation in short, I've been asked to look at a boat at the local rowing club that got banged up. The rowers ran it into a scaffolding-like structure (a helipad, I kid you not) which has a beam just below the water. The bottom of the boat (right along the keel line) is all cracked and soft to the touch. They then proceeded to drop the boat on concrete, forcing the skeg into the hull and cracking that area as well. Basically the bottom of the hull is mostly smashed up. I've worked on rowing shells before and, as far as I can tell, their construction in the hull is a couple layers of light glass/carbon on either side of a honeycomb core. In the past the repairs I've worked on either had the honeycomb and/or one skin still intact, or the holes were so small I wasn't worried about glass drooping out of shape. In this case my instinct would be to cut out all the smashed parts of the hull to replace them (I wouldn't be surprised if the glass is broken and the core squished). My problem is that the resultant holes would be more than I can just lay a bit of glass over and fair it in. So, Fix It Anarchy, what would you do? Note that internal access to the hull *might* be possible, but it would mean at a minimum cutting out the fore and aft decks (not ideal). I'll be trying to talk the club into sending the boat to a proper shop, but getting to a rowing shell manufacturer is not feasible and I don't know how comfortable the couple of local sailing boat shops would be taking on such a lightly-built craft with such extensive damage. Boat hasn't been a "racing" boat in a very long time, the job won't have to be "to new" spec, just "it'll float and be dry" spec.
  11. Reht

    International Tempest help

    There was an article written up about it a while back. So the boat was burned, the fittings and rigging still on it presumably (not like they had a chance to take it to shore and strip it). I've heard that the sails made it off the boat and were used by another campaigning team for the next Olympic cycle (which never materialized as the Tempest was dropped form the roster after Montreal).
  12. Reht

    49er newbie questions

    Mast to windward the scooping method High Flow mentioned works pretty well. If the lighter person is in the water then all the better. If you capsize with the mast to leeward, the fastest way is to roll the boat completely over so that the mast is to windward, if it's off to a side, then the wind and waves will tend to blow you around. In lighter winds obviously the scoop doesn't work and you need to use a different method, here's what we did when racing in light winds (or when we couldn't scoop for other reasons): -Both swim around to the daggerboard, and hop on up. Don't let the boat come up until you're both on the board (the first person up might have to go sit on the gunwale). -Once you're up there, have the sailor closer to the hull grab the gunwale or a kite sheet (whichever is more convenient) while the other stands further out on the board holding the person in front of them. We generally had the crew closer to the hull and skipper further out, it was a function of what was comfortable) -As the mast raises out of the water, you're going to have to act quick if both sailors want to get on without swimming. --If you don't mind getting wet then the person in front will hop over the gunwale near the wing/chainplates and sprint to the tiller and mainsheet while the other gets wet and climbs in either over a wing dipped in the water or over the transom. --If you want to stay dry (or are racing and want to get going as soon as possible) the skipper will hop over to the underside of the wing as the mast clears the water. -As the boat comes upright the skipper climbs over the wing (DO NOT REVERSE LOAD THE WING!). make sure you only load the wing the way you would standing on it, otherwise you risk tearing it out of the deck. Skipper goes straight for tiller and mainsheet. -Meanwhile the crew has jumped up in front of the chainplates. While catching balance it's easier to stay in front of the mast and step back to a sailing position on the wing once the boat is under control. No matter what, you have to be a little quick on your feet as the boat will try to roll right back over if given the chance.
  13. Reht

    Drone question

    Yeah I'm usually close enough to land so that I could theoretically set the "home" to the roof or the boat yard without much issue. Landing is the easy part. If the quad cant get a fix, it wont let you take off. As long as you have someone on land that can swap batteries, etc you will be fine. MS They are reasonably reliable while they work. All the controller/platform combinations I've played with have a limit somewhere when what looks like a clean landing turns into a massacre in no time flat. Just be careful if you're landing out of sight (we'll ignore the legal implications of that for now). My only concern with the Phantoms from my experience is proximity to a "restricted" area in their database, generally airports. The limitations can (according to DJI) be modified/removed on the Phantom 3 and newer, but if you accidentally fly into a restricted area the drone takes over and its reactions can be unpredictable at best.
  14. Reht

    420 vs 505 for beginner

    This advice has been said above, but I'll throw my voice behind it as well. Try sailing on other people's boats, learn to sail with a class or a sailor who needs a crew. While not guaranteed, you're likely to cause damage to any boat you buy to start with, especially if it's two complete novices going for a sail. The short story about boats is that they consume money and time like almost nothing else, and often a cheap boat is more expensive in the long run than a more expensive second-hand one. The maintenance and bits and pieces costs will keep you spending money to keep the boat going. Plus a boat that's in better shape, while more expensive, is likely to be easier to sail in general (systems setup correctly, appropriate controls and bits of string in the right place, good sails, etc). So, long story short, learn on any boat that you don't own. Then save up and buy a decent second-hand boat, ideally in a class that is popular locally.
  15. Reht

    Drone question

    Realistically? It depends what you want, at the cheapest level you could build something for $400 and throw a gopro (or any other action camera) on it. The Phantom 3 from my limited experience with it (I have plenty with the 2 and only brief interactions with the 3 and 4) should do the trick once in the air, no problem. Mavic has the nice portability features, but as you mentioned it comes with a price. Soi it comes down to what features do you NEED, what features can you afford, and what features do you want. Much like buying a boat, any will get you a bird's eye view, every option out there has a way of mounting a live-view feed, the battery life will be comparable for everything within the same "weight class" (using similar sized batteries, motors and propellers), the cameras and their quality might vary a bit from brand to brand (don't know what you need/want here). In small size quadrotor solutions, the market has basically solved the problem as best as it can with current tech.