Haligonian Winterr

+1 max balls less one. I would advise against rods. Every boat I've tried them on has ditched them. Well maintained balls should be fine, although Torlon does degrade in UV. Cars still sold with rod sliders are all Torlon so far as I've seen. HW

+1, their tolerances are pretty good, you may be able to buy 6" (minimum purchase I think) of correct O.D. and just punch it in. Otherwise bring it and some material to your local machine shop with some beer. HW

+1 on Moore Brothers. HW

Also increases forward structure stiffness while reducing weight. Significant difference in shedding water also (apparently, according to Hugo Boss and AT) HW

Title says it all. Personal experience, anecdotes, myths, legends and fairy tales, we're up for anything. Whats the best adhesive? Doing a 2cmx8cm wedge onto a stainless bar. Most load will be in shear. HW

Adidas terrex boat shoes. Best I've ever worn. And they come in black. HW

For small loads (IE. hanging gear below, light tie-downs, securing spares/bags) I do a few batches a year or the carbon ones described by Zonker above. You can drill out a bunch of carbon/glass plate, make a dyneema bight and unlay the fibers, mix up a bunch of epoxy and press them into a sheet of peel-ply. I've found using a non-coated dyneema fiber makes things easier, and having weight/clamp on top of the discs is critical. For larger loads (padeyes) you and through-drill deck, over-drill the core, fill with thickened epoxy, and bond a thick disc of G10/C10 to each side of the deck, and make either a diamond-knot loup or bone-loup to pass up through. FYI they are very hard to make watertight unless you can cap the underside (I believe Tye-Tec's solution works but can get gummy and gross). HW

I've used dyneema core with dyneema tips at the very clew end with great success. Polyester cover works fine at the clutches for reef 1/2, where they can be hammered on with no slop in the system. Technora blend was better for 3/4 when there was a bit more movement, and you're nipping the reef lines. HW

Ultratorch. Got one last summer and will never go back. Still use an electric one in the shop, but for close-cutting seizing ends and stoppers on board, nothing beats it. https://www.masterappliance.com/ultratorch-ut-100si-soldering-iron-heat-tool/ HW

Be aware if running anywheres near deep, or if flogged, the second the luff folds the sheet will fall off. They also get soft eventually (common problem I've heard...) The "upper dick" is a much better solution, and we still have a batten on the prodder to catch the sheet if it misses the dicks. Hold a tidbit of tension on the old sheet while gybing; should hit the upper dick without anyone on the foredeck. HW

Soaked in 3M citrus adhesive remover is my go-to, with patience and several plastic razor blades. Liquid courage is helpful. HW

Liked them on a J30, had no problem holding the aluminium boom and heavier cruising main. Sometimes popped out of the sockets with a loose vang and high boom, but easily replaced. Some people forgot it wasn't a topping lift and leaned on the boom a little too hard... HW

I use the Marlow urethane quite a bit; in red, green, black and clear. Excellent finish, although it takes a few tries to get it right. If you're using the Marlow (I'm not sure if it applies to MaxiJacket also) cut it ~50% with regular water. It will absorb into the fibres better and is less prone to flaking. HW

I believe it is a loop pulled through the spool. Jim at Gorilla Rigging in Newport has pretty much infinite experience with equiplites/loups. HW

I've used North's dogbone hanks, they're strong but need some tweaking in practice. Mainly that the bone-loop size ratio is off, and it's a fight to get the bone in/out. Slightly smaller bone or bigger eye would solve that. +1 love these things, although it's worth it to put a dyneema bone hank at the very top, as I've experienced them consistently breaking/releasing under load. If you're looking to replace the grommets, it's going to get pricey, as you will have to get a sailmaker to stitch in new patches. If just replacing the piston hanks, it can be done yourself with little cost and some work. HW