Haligonian Winterr

Also includes E-18-b-1 Containers' contents and seals (if any) can be checked at any time from 24 hours before the start and after crossing the finish line, until notified as cleared by the measurer. Although RRS 51 doesn't apply, the "seals" aspect in terms of emergency water, liferaft, grab bag etc. is in reference to their caps and tie-down points. Can't stack them. So any weight you bring in emergency is with you 'till the end. HW

L/M/H #1 in my experience are all the same cut just different materials/cloth weights to handle their respective wind ranges. When you start fooling with luff/foot lengths or leech hollows/clew heights is when I think you get into the #2/#3 range. When you have noticeabley different cuts. HW

Scows in the top 16, with the original (Raison's) leading. 1 - 865 - Lipinski 4 - 888 - Koster 9 - 934 - Riechers 16 - 900 - Vlamynck Lipinski a bit faster (7.3) than #2 (6.2) but slower than the rest of the fleet ~100nm behind. HW

I've used self-made rope-eye bonded eyes on the interior before, mostly for securing items (spare liferaft, ditch kit, storm sails) and hard points for pipe berths. Bonded with Plexus, thickened West System or G-Flex. Worked very well but surface prep is critical. HW

Call around the yards, most rig shops have a pile beside the spar shed with broken bits. Some beer may persuade them to chance a gander. HW

Ino Block went around the world in 2016... http://ino-block.com/?lang=en HW

Allez Jorg! 934 in 9th Scow bows 3 - 865 Lipinski 9 - 934 Riechers 16 - 888 Koster 17 - 900 Arkema HW

Only Arkema to the best of my knowledge. 888 was originally built with foils, although constrained by old rules, but sailing with classic boards this race. There were a few Protos in past years that were experimenting with T Rudders for pulling the stern down (like i14s) rather than overall lift. HW

Blocks if they're in the budget, rings if they're not. You should have something in there for chafe, but blocks aren't always necessary. HW

Zippers are a worry although in their Aegir line they hold up well. Their Aegir (ie. priciest) line is a 4.5 star + product, although their less expensive stuff is less than amazing. Musto is reliable all through the line, although if you're not doing a few hundred miles per year, fit is usually more important than fabric performance. Cuts vary HW

I've had Karvers and ProFurls work well all around, although the ProFurls are more maintenance intensive. In terms of the furler twisting, this is an issue I've experienced before, and it turns into a clusterfuck real quick. We've always used a 2:1/3:1 or hard attachement direct, and as long as it's tight enough to produce a good furl (pretty tight) then it will not "capsize" (ie. overcome the tackline and the drum casing begins to spin with the cable). The biggest concern we've had with this is is while easing the tackline to lift the halyard off lock, the drum can capsize, but with adequate turns of the sheet around the sail post-furl, this doesn't cause any worry with the sail deploying, only extra time in derigging the fouled furling line. I personally prefer multiple sails/cables on the same drum, as it saves weight, makes maintenance easier (keep one spare and dry, swap when needed), the drum doesn't bang around on deck while the sail is being stacked, and you don't have to run the furling line every time. Only really an issue with larger boats where the leads have to be perfect, or running under deck to the clutch bank. Only downside is using top-down systems (Karver at least) where you can't disconnect the sail/cable from the drum without removing the lashing for the tack. HW

Easiest is usually a line run through whatever had point the tackline block is attached to (or a microblock lashed to the bowsprit far forward), and back to the pulpit. Tie in a tight bowline through the trigger of the tylaska (opposite the trigger hinge) and pull out gently with the tack during set. You can either tie it off snug to the pulpit for a remote release (ease the tack line) or trip it manually by going forward. Tylaska also offers built-in martinbreaker trip (T12+ I believe) and I think they're still making the little plugs you can put in the trigger to pull and trip. Make sure you tie something onto the bail that you can use to pull the tackline back into the boat, our you'll wind up going out there anyways... HW

Best method is usually take off both end caps, pull both set screws, and tap out the pin with a pin of slightly smaller diameter, gently. Works on current harken and old lewmar cars HW

I wore them in my regular pant size (32" waist, sitting on the hip), and I had to max out the velcro adjustment, as well as wear a belt, otherwise they would slip off just with a phone and wallet in the pockets. Ordered online so didn't expect a result like that. They also seem on the roomy/baggy side with a relatively long inseam for the size. HW

I've had two pair and found the sizing to be enormous, blew out a seam on each and two belt loups on one within a few months. For a long passage though, it's worth your left hand to have a pad to sit on that moves around with you.... HW