Haligonian Winterr

If going with tapped padeyes, make sure the plate is well made, and the bottom layer (closest to boat) is tight-knit 0/90. Have had repeated issues with tapped padeyes with handles attached (on watertight bulkhead hatches) coming off due to bottom layer of carbon delaminating from the rest of the padeye. HW

Salsa is super popular, I personally like it in hand. What I've seen used before is Salsa (or whatever) in hand, then step down to smallest possible line for the load. If I remember correctly from the splicing thread awhile back, the easiest step down Alan found was -2mm. So if reference core starts at 8mm, step to 6 then 4, eye splice in the 4. Remember that the bury length will be relative to the larger rope (8mm rope needs 800mm bury, etc). I think it's worth it, and relatively easy to do. HW

Drill oversize, gouge out foam, pot with thickened epoxy, drill, tap, helicoil. HW

+1 for Bay Sailing

Re-heading can be a long-term measure. Dye-testing the other heads is a good idea. HW

Very good point, I hadn't considered the changed geometry with the l'Occitane shape. I wonder if the class would consider an amended rule due to the amount of time the new boats are spending with the middle of the boat being the first impact zone. HW

Forward bulkhead is usually in line with the J2 foundation, so probably farther aft than a blunting will affect. This is notably different from the "crash box" that's in the bottom of the bow (see Malizia's nosejob, where they were cutting the foam). HW

5 cycles 20% MWL, 5 cycles 50% MWL, 5 cycles 100% MWL. Long covered strops (halyards, sheets) can be done on a very smooth winch drum or bollard (need grip, but no fibre damage), short strops are pin-pin, or basketed on appropriate hardware (polished). Long bare strops are more complicated as they will be damage by the grip from a bollard/winch, so the only way to do it properly is Mikey does. Easiest is welded sheaves to an I-beam, with various hard-points to account for different strop lengths and ram stroke. HW

It's always easier to work with multiple passes of thin than one/two passes of thick. Particularly when calculating bury-shrink to nail a precise finished length. Some online resources suggest that 1/2 of "normal" bury length on each leg is adequate to produce a full strength splice. I prefer full bury on both legs, ie 100x diameter bury. Another gain for using thinner line (6mm requires 600mm bury vs 900mm bury). I would determine the precise finished length required, then build a normal covered loop that satisfies those numbers, then drop it over the doughnut onto the shackles. Also remember two passes of line is not 2x strength, rather closer to 1.8x (if all aspects are perfect). Pre-load is your friend. HW

+1, we used this on all exposed Alu on the 12m. Make sure the tape job is done well. HW

Any furling line spliced strong enough to do it's job will win over hands/fingers. Not just full-strength ones. HW

A finger-weave style cross with a whipping over top. Cover strands are split into 3 bundles, and buried under the opposing braid. This unfortunately makes a 1-2mm diameter increase, but is normally within the tolerances of deck hardware. HW

A "buddha" splice is what we use for continuous-diameter structural splices. This is how continuous furler lines are built on boats that need them strong (Comanche, Macif). Determine required bury (eg. 400mm in 4mm rope), double it, mark the start and middle of the taper. Gently pull alternating strands to acheive 50% taper at 50% of bury length. Carefully done, you will be able to maintain a 6-strand rope for the remainder of the 50% of the bury. Just after the mark, pull the 7th strand out and begin to wrap the remainder in tape, covering it as you taper. You'll wind up with 4mm at the start, 2mm at 50%, and 1 strand at the end. Tuck into eachother at the 50% mark, stich, set under load, and milk the cover back over. For your application I would recommend something like Marlow MGP Furler 50. HW

Not too hard to make yourself. Just winds up heavier. Make sure you use good bearings, and keep things square. https://www.marineelement.com/product-page/unreel-revolution-kit HW

With the transition to a smaller team vs the '65s, have you had to change you leadership style or learn new techniques for managing a small team in this situation? HW