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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Haligonian Winterr

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About Haligonian Winterr

  • Rank
    Anarchist
  • Birthday 06/19/1994

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  • Location
    Halifax, NS
  • Interests
    Going Fast.

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  1. reefing lines?

    I've used dyneema core with dyneema tips at the very clew end with great success. Polyester cover works fine at the clutches for reef 1/2, where they can be hammered on with no slop in the system. Technora blend was better for 3/4 when there was a bit more movement, and you're nipping the reef lines. HW
  2. cordless hot knife?

    Ultratorch. Got one last summer and will never go back. Still use an electric one in the shop, but for close-cutting seizing ends and stoppers on board, nothing beats it. https://www.masterappliance.com/ultratorch-ut-100si-soldering-iron-heat-tool/ HW
  3. End of Sprit stick / wand??

    Be aware if running anywheres near deep, or if flogged, the second the luff folds the sheet will fall off. They also get soft eventually (common problem I've heard...) The "upper dick" is a much better solution, and we still have a batten on the prodder to catch the sheet if it misses the dicks. Hold a tidbit of tension on the old sheet while gybing; should hit the upper dick without anyone on the foredeck. HW
  4. Adhesive removal

    Soaked in 3M citrus adhesive remover is my go-to, with patience and several plastic razor blades. Liquid courage is helpful. HW
  5. Boomkicker rod boom vangs

    Liked them on a J30, had no problem holding the aluminium boom and heavier cruising main. Sometimes popped out of the sockets with a loose vang and high boom, but easily replaced. Some people forgot it wasn't a topping lift and leaned on the boom a little too hard... HW
  6. Dye for Dyneema Chafe Sleeve???

    I use the Marlow urethane quite a bit; in red, green, black and clear. Excellent finish, although it takes a few tries to get it right. If you're using the Marlow (I'm not sure if it applies to MaxiJacket also) cut it ~50% with regular water. It will absorb into the fibres better and is less prone to flaking. HW
  7. Equiplite

    I believe it is a loop pulled through the spool. Jim at Gorilla Rigging in Newport has pretty much infinite experience with equiplites/loups. HW
  8. Soft Jib Hanks

    I've used North's dogbone hanks, they're strong but need some tweaking in practice. Mainly that the bone-loop size ratio is off, and it's a fight to get the bone in/out. Slightly smaller bone or bigger eye would solve that. +1 love these things, although it's worth it to put a dyneema bone hank at the very top, as I've experienced them consistently breaking/releasing under load. If you're looking to replace the grommets, it's going to get pricey, as you will have to get a sailmaker to stitch in new patches. If just replacing the piston hanks, it can be done yourself with little cost and some work. HW
  9. Sistering keel bolts

    Yes, the round stock was cut shorter than the width of the keel, so the West helped pot each side. HW
  10. VOR65 - upwind angle with the zero?

    From the other thread, green is MH0 HW
  11. Sistering keel bolts

    My dad did his on a Catalina 27 as he was suspect of the originals. Matched original stud diameter and placed ~3" away from the originals, got a ballpark measurement from builders for the depth (J-cast) of original bolts. Went ~5" below that. Over-drill bolt holes so they slide in (just) instead of threading in, seated into drill/tapped round stock that was inserted sideways through the keel, same diameter as drill. Final install with lots of West System w/structural filler, one at a time (to fill the voids in lead portion and bolt slop at the same time) at 75% recommended torque, final torque after 200% cure time for West. YRMV, and neither he nor I am a boatbuilder. HW
  12. Rotary cutters

    Used them on canvas/sailcloth with good results, but shears and a taped edge give the best results in my experience. HW
  13. VOR65 - upwind angle with the zero?

    MHO is usually ~10deg lower than J1, but more power/speed so distance sailed makes up for lost height. Polars I think are published somewheres. HW
  14. Stainless vs Aluminum - the struggle is real...

    Duralac. Possible to get in Canada but difficult. Not illegal, so easiest to purchase abroad then bring it home. Duralac, TefGel, Silicone, Lanocote, all do almost the same thing to varying degrees of effectiveness, and all have their own niche place on the boat. Duralac is a favourite of mine as it is a chemical isolator as well as a physical one (so I'm told). Look at any Southern Spars rig and the little yellow ring around every fastener is Duralac. HW
  15. In-boom drum for tensioning outhaul

    On the topic of source of boom compression loads; they are majority from the mainsheet tension (vertical) being transferred to leech load (angled, clew to head) along with outhaul tension applied. On small multis (F27, A Class) there is often just a purchase between the clew and the end of the boom, with the bitter end lead forward to a convenient space. Often not adjusted much while sailing and rarely under load, if you need it to be tweaked while under load you can increase the purchase size, but clew strap friction is often the enemy here. HW