Herreshoff

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Everything posted by Herreshoff

  1. Herreshoff

    Waterline Systems

    Randy has been helpful and responsive. I am absolutely patiently awaiting the parts. It seems the boat business can be as difficult as it can be lucrative. I’m not sure any of these guys are getting rich. Actually, doubting it. At the end of the day it’s a living. I’m thankful someone’s trying to provide support To J boat owners. I agree, hopefully many will be supportive and give them a chance to gain new traction.
  2. Herreshoff

    Tattoo 26- WTF???

    It’s all relative... run what ya brung...
  3. Herreshoff

    Waterline Systems

    Thanks SPECTRE, may be in touch if the Waterline kit doesn’t work out. Feeling optimistic that they will come through but will see.
  4. Herreshoff

    Waterline Systems

    I assumed it was a Gordon Borges. I can’t find the old emails to verify. He was cool on the phone but wasn’t really willing to help. He didn’t seemed concerned with throwing away business. Just a measly sump kit I guess. When I most recently reached out thinking I was trying Gordon again instead I got the response from Henry and he now heads up the parts department. I have ordered the sump kit through Henry a couple weeks ago but still have not seen the charge or heard back. He said it would be a week out or so. Previously, when speaking with Gordon he said he would need a few orders at one time to make it worth his time as they needed to makeup the kit. I wasn’t super happy with that and persisted. I am assuming Henry needs to build the kit as well but is willing to do just one. Perhaps that’s why he’s the new parts dept. lead. For others, the kit was a bit over $1400.00- for full sump and floors kit. It includes Waterline built solid glass floor stringers. Penske foam, fiberglass cloth. Teak & Holly floor. Still waiting and will update if and when it arrives.
  5. Herreshoff

    J24 sump...epoxy or polyester resin filler?

    This is a little frustrating, there must be a bunch of boats out there that all have different versions of the vermiculite repair. I can see why theres been so many different approaches. The class didn’t do a great job providing a detailed, consistent repair. Squalamax, I don’t see how filling forward section buries any keel bolt. It seems the pouring method was the class approved method for quite a while. the early soggy sole repair is something else. Soggy sole repair page 18 - http://j24archives.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Vol.-16-April-1986.pdf Retrofitting vermiculite early boats page 15 - http://j24archives.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Vol.-19-Fall-1987.pdf Retrofitting vermiculite early boats page 15 - http://j24archives.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Vol.-21-Fall-1988.pdf The Mushy Vermiculite problem page 15 - http://j24archives.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Vol.-23-Fall-1989.pdf This reference is good but they lay the foam vertically, so just another take - replacing rotted floors page 119 http://dl.kashti.ir/ENBOOKS/FBIR.pdf This is Waterlines instructions for their kit. vermiculite removal.doc
  6. Herreshoff

    J24 sump...epoxy or polyester resin filler?

    I didn’t think there would be so much to consider with getting rid of vermiculite and maybe overthinking but it seems others have put some thought into it too. There seem to be a couple of schools of thought on this and while the fiber mixed with epoxy only “pouring” method appears to work and hold up nicely per photos above. Waterline instructions and direction from our local measurer advise using the Penske board / cloth “brick laying” method referenced and pictured in Dogfish4255 posts above. I am not sure if this is a structural or weight concern, or both. I understand that the Penske board method will be a bit lighter opposed to just filling the sump with resin and fiber but considering the somewhat small size of the sump I don’t see the weight difference being much between the two methods. I guess the class has decided replacing vermiculite / resin mix with straight resin and fiber will yield significantly heavier result than using board, cloth and resin sandwich? Or are they more simply concerned with the difference in weight between the original verm install and new epoxy fill regardless of method? Are we talking a lot of weight? It sounds like the standard back in the day was to “pour” the mix straight away no foam board. Now they want you to use the foam and cloth. It’s not lead shot type weight difference, what are are we talking a couple pounds? Either way, short of adding gravel or shot, wouldn’t either method be lighter then the original? Perhaps I’m underestimating the weight of straight epoxy compared to verm mixed with epoxy. I’m not sure if the 80 lbs. I’ve heard referenced as the original vermiculite weight includes the bunch they put all throughout under the floor. Anyways, If loss of weight is enough to bring the boat under minimum and cause one to be adding corrector weights doesn’t seem right. It seems like the old verm boats doing the job now get screwed a bit. Not sure why you can’t put back exactly the weight you took out and instead they make you put it in the ends of the boat. Oh well I guess. The new solid glass floor stringers are additional weight so perhaps that’s part of the consideration. Weight differences aside, while the straight pour method appears okay, class and builder are directing to use the bricklaying method so that’s how we’ll go. At the end of day, layers of epoxy resin, Penske foam, and cloth tabbed to the walls of sump seem to be more structurally significant when compared to a pour of resin and strands. Looking for two things with this verm job, losing soaked verm extra / inconsistent weight and stiffening the boat a bit. Interesting to see the changes in ideas over time.
  7. Herreshoff

    J24 sump...epoxy or polyester resin filler?

    Thank you, That sump looks really good. I would be very happy with that installation. I am wondering why you didn’t fill the front end section of the sump. Small Bilge? Did you just use plywood for floor stringers and the floorboard? I agree the Waterline kit isn’t cheap. I have considered different routes in doing this. The time savings and efficiency of having premade floors and having record that the kit was used is valuable to me. The teak and holly will just look nice. If I avoided the kit, I figured the materials to create solid glass floorboards and rebuild the sump proper probably more like $400 - $500 give or take. Then the time spent custom building the floors etc... It would be nice to get away spending $50 on this. As the boat is worth it to me I don’t feel bad spending some dough on the floors as I’ve heard good things. I will post photos of the kit when it arrives for others (I know there’s still a few, maybe) going down this road.
  8. Herreshoff

    J24 sump...epoxy or polyester resin filler?

    Waterline got back to me. The original quote was for just aft section of sump. Once I let them know It’s the entire sump they had to Redo the quote. The price for the kit for the entire sump is $1434.00 the additional cost is for more Penske foam and additional section of flooring Seems a little weird. Oh well need the kit. Pulled the trigger today. Will share on how it goes.
  9. Herreshoff

    J24 sump...epoxy or polyester resin filler?

    Getting ready to do verm job with the Waterline kit. The kit doesn’t come with resin. Looking at ordering some but there’s a lot to choose from out there. Someone please advise, it sounds like epoxy resin be the preferred type of resin for this project? Any suggestions for type, brand, source appreciated. Originally, I expected to be “pouring” large amounts of resin to fill the sump. After reading above posts and waterline instructions I realize it will be more brick laying in a resin putty. Using the method referenced above with Penske foam, same as Waterlines instructions, what might be a reasonable estimate of how much resin to order?
  10. Herreshoff

    Waterline Systems

    Yeah It seems they are trying. Got a email from Henry at Waterline first thing this morning with the vermiculite kit instruction sheet that includes a list of recommended materials and tools. In addition it lists everything included in the kit. Waterline supply: 9 sq. ft. Of Pensky foam, 1708biaxial fiberglass cloth, Cabin Sole, floor supports / stringers. Another email after asking if the verm is just rear section of or entirely through sump. i don’t know, maybe they got to a point where they were only filling part of the sump with the vermiculite? Mine is full to the brim and I’m thinking itheres going to be a bunch under the floors. sorry, anyways I’m really feeling optimistic after communicating with Henry. Super responsive so far. His contact is henry@waterlinesystems.com
  11. Herreshoff

    Waterline Systems

    I was thinking yeah why not just layup some floors and tab them in. There’s not much to them. Just the thought of cutting some to fit out of some sheet or board sounded clean and solid. Funny thing Waterline sent out an email today advertising Fall savings and to contact them for parts and service needs. also something about hard to find parts etc... I snipped back in a reply email that I still need the vermiculite kit and if any chance, ever? What do you know, I got a response from Henry Pendleton. Henry now heads up the parts department at Waterline and he says they can indeed provide me with the kit for $1063.00- and if I had any questions and / or would I like to place an order. I’ve got an email back to him asking what that price includes. I’m guessing the glass stringers and teak and holly flooring. Doubt resin etc.. Ive heard others mention that they’ll break it up and sell you what you need. I don’t know. An old j24 that gets raced only probably doesnt need teak and holly but it sure does look nice. Ill see what the $1000 bucks includes but I’m really feeling like it might just be worth it to me. Anyways, thankful that Waterline seems to be getting things sorted now.
  12. Herreshoff

    Waterline Systems

    I don’t know what’s going on over there. It was frustrating having Randy say they offer the kit, directing me to Gordon and then have Gordon send me away. The fiberglass floors just seem to be the proper method of repair following vermiculite removal. I’m considering going with marine plywood epoxied instead but only because can’t get the kit. It appears plywood is okay in lieu of sold glass http://j24forum.org/usa/faqs/verm_repair.htm Question for those who have done these, If Waterline continues to be a no go, would it be reasonable going with G9 or G10 glass epoxy sheet for the floors instead of plywood? *Edit that-never mind, I just checked pricing on glass epoxy sheets and seems it gets pricey.
  13. Herreshoff

    Cleaning Sails

    I’ve heard Tidy Bowl works well.
  14. Herreshoff

    Waterline Systems

    So trying again to source the j24 vermiculite sump / floor kit through Waterline. Would really like to get the verm out of the old girl after all these years. Mostly just want the fiberglass floor stringers from Waterline, Could live without their teak & holly but their stringers are supposed to be sweet. I’ve seen so many pics of j24s with plywood floor stringers just run into the sump resin. It seems like a lot of pics of rotted plywood. Not what I want. Gordon at Waterline told me they’d have to make up the floor stringers and it’d need to be an order for like 3 boats or he’d need to have a few lined up at one time to be worth his time. Kind of a pain. Not feeling the love that’s for sure. Anyone have an old Waterline vermiculite replacement kit consider selling?
  15. Herreshoff

    Waterline Systems

    About six weeks ago I left a message with Waterline for parts info / pricing inquiry for j24 Parts that weren’t showing on the website. Got a voicemail from Gordon and never was able to contact him. I did reach Randy Borges and he told me they do still offer the kit I was looking for and to send him an email and he’d get the info and pricing for me. Emailed Randy with no response. Tried the website email link and still nothing. Left a final voicemail politely explaining that I wasn’t having much luck with getting ordering info and asking they contact me but nothing. It’s a bummer because I’d really like to get their parts but left wondering like you. It’s confusing because they do answer the phone and seem to be open for business but something is not connecting. I’m guessing it’s related to recent business changes.
  16. Herreshoff

    Good ol Sailcomp

    Thank you Shenanigan, I've read posts regarding the backlight going out on the display and that they have a special price for new display if you call and complain. If they would send me a new fluxgate for $200 I'd be happy, but that ain't gonna happen. It appears the going rate for a brand new fluxgate is $500+ so I was thinking of contacting KVH regarding repair but It's old electronics and I feel like it's kind of throwing good money after bad. Sailcomp when working is great in my opinion and I've considered just spending on a new package but then I start to think about the newer technology stuff. Again, I really like the remote handheld with the sailcomp. Can someone who's had experience with both please tell me if the Racemaster just plain outperforms a sailcomp and does the lift header feature function as nicely and easy to see as with the sail-comp? Does the Racemaster offer a remote? if I can source an old system with a working fluxgate or get this sailcomp fixed for less and have it function as it has in the past I'd be good with that. if things are going to get pricey then I'm wondering if it's better to go with new technology. If KVH can fix it for reasonable money, I'd probably go for it, but curious as to their service record.
  17. Herreshoff

    Good ol Sailcomp

    I figure some old schoolers have lots of experience with the sailcomp. Used sailcomp came with J24. Looked like it had been installed for a long time but hooked it to battery and it worked. Actually liked it a lot, the remote was cool because you can control from cockpit don't need crew to reach for mast. The timer function was cool but especially liked the lift / header function. I know there is new technology like the Tacktic etc... but just kind of liked the sailcomp when it worked and it did work for a long time until submersion and I think I'm close to getting it functioning again. The top hat was installed low in the v berth in front of the mast ( I am hearing that's not the ideal location) and at some point sat in water in th V after racing. The display started acting up so got a new display but nothing. Opened up the top hat and everything corroded so picked up a couple brain boxes and a used flux gate (untested) on eBay and hooked up and now the display goes through its 3 second test where entire display goes on perfectly then after 3 seconds goes to gibberish. This occurs exactly with whichever brain box I use so I am thinking it's the used ebay flux gate which obliviously the sensitive part of the system. Anyway, I'm going give another shot and try to find a fairly priced top hat on eBay again, a new flux gate only is like $500+. It looks like the sailcomp complete new can be had for like a grand. Used old complete systems appear to go for $150-$250+ on ebay. Wondering if anyone has had success sending components to KVH for repair.
  18. Herreshoff

    Good ol Sailcomp

    Thanks Slick, I appreciate your input. Yeah, the fluxgate I got on ebay had the wires cut so I swapped the harness out with my non working units because I heard that once you cut the wires it's generally screwed from there. I'm pretty certain my issue is the fluxgate or the wiring between it and the brain box. The flux gate has some wires in it that are like tiny threads, that's probably why the warranty is void as soon as you open it. Mine was so old that warranty wasn't an issue so I opened it to see what's in there. It's not a big deal opening it, just have to be gentle and feed the wiring in the top as you open it. The used fluxgate I got on ebay came with a factory mounting plate made of aluminum so I will use that to secure solidly to something. I am reading that a better location for the fluxgate might be quite a ways aft of the V berth. That seems to me to be an issue as far as a better place to put it. As far as the lettering on the remote, yeah mine just worn away over time. They colored so at least you can identify which button to press that way. I wouldn't waste the time on it but I've seen it work and like you say it's a pretty neat bit of gear. If it comes having to cough up bucks for new KVH components then I'll really have to compare to the newer stuff available, although I hear a lot of reviews that makes me less then confident to spend good cash. Velocitek stuff looks ok but I really want this for the lift header function and I think sailcomp appears better then the velocitek lift. The Tacktick Racemaster looks pretty sweet but it appears the crew would need to reach to the mast and punch little buttons, that's kind of sucky on a j24.so I tend to lean more towards the sailcomp again for our use with the remote.