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About @last

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  1. @last

    Considering buying '82 J 30

    A few more random thoughts. You might assign a percentage of likely usage to help guide the process. For example, if 90% of your racing would be done locally and there is a strong OD presence there, it can in many ways be a no brainer to pick the J30. It is a win two ways, first you have built in competition which is always fun in the sense that it is not a horses for courses type of deal where one boat might be favored for certain conditions (light air, heavy air, etc). Second if it is a good group you have people familiar with the boat and how to make it go and also willing to share that info with you. With regard to the Bermuda, I don't claim specific knowledge, but do bear in mind that any distance race of that stature has safety standards and that those standards may be a moving target. Using the Chicago to Mac race for example in the safety regs they many time use the phrase "recommended" with regard to equipment and at others "required". As safety progresses, it is not unusual for something that was on last years "recommended" list to now be on the required list. Just food for thought, not saying increasing safety standards is a bad thing. With regard to the Pearson 33 it is certainly a well built boat. Not sure what design/vintage you are referring to, one of the early ones or the mid 80s boats that had fin keel/centerboard options. That said, when I think of using a boat for racing, the Pearson doesn't jump out as first choice. In any boat though care is king. Many owners treat boats as consumables deferring maintenance, avoiding big ticket things needed to maintain, etc. The trick is to find the rare owner who has the foresight to both care for the boat and the means to spend money addressing long term needs rather than spending small amounts on what are largely superficial things. Although out of your stated range I think a J33 would fit the bill and asking price is not always reflective of what things actually sell for. https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/j-boats-j33-3132135/ Perhaps another thought would be a late generation maxi MORC 30. Although fairly rare, they do occasionally come up for sale in your neck of the woods. I know Tin Man is one example that has raced to Bermuda and would be closer to your price range. Another, which has had various names, I think Motion was in that range and either just sold recently or is still for sale, locals can chime in on that one.
  2. @last

    Considering buying '82 J 30

    Just my random 2 cents worth what you paid-lol. As Lex mentions the boat survived the Fastnet to my knowledge. That said and not trying to dis 30 owners here but I did the Chicago Mac race on my J35 and it was the one where two people died. Afterwards there was a safety inquiry into the incident and one of the findings/recommendation was that there should be a cut off number on the Stability Index. From memory that was implemented the following year and the J30 fell outside that index/was not Mac race legal. You mention going offshore and I think in general the J30 is a fine boat but perhaps not the best choice for some of the things you want to do. I would pass on the S-2 9.2 but would give serious consideration the the S-2 9.1. Although similar size and from the same builder, these boats are worlds apart from a design perspective, the 9.1 being the more racing oriented boat. Bear in mind too that there were a few 9.1 "Special Editions" that had interiors that were different from the standard 9.1 Not sure where it falls on the Stability Index scale, US sailing should have this info if sistership has ORR certificate. Good luck, boat shopping is the funnest and least costly part!
  3. @last

    Upgrade from Merit 22 to S2 7.9, worth it?

    B-25 perhaps? Although not produced in nearly the same numbers as the 7.9. https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/b-boats-b-25-3477491/?refSource=standard%20listing
  4. @last

    Upgrade from Merit 22 to S2 7.9, worth it?

    A few more thoughts. The mast is easily raised when the system posted on the class website is utilized. It involves purchasing a few items (turnbuckles, carabiners, etc), not terribly expensive, I think I bought what I needed from home depot for less than $100. The actual raising can be done by one person using the primary winch and the spin pole going forward acting as a lever arm to raise the mast. Block and tackle at end of spin pole can be provided by main sheet but it needs to be extra long. From memory I think the normal main sheet is around 60 ft and I think I had to make it to around 100ft to accommodate the extra distance needed from end of spin pole to head stay fitting area when spin pole was in "up" position and mast was in down position. There is a half round shoe on the base of the mast and that makes the raising itself go fairly easily. It does help to have at least two people, preferably three to move the mast into place, pin the shoe, etc. Although the mast is moderately long the mast section is not excessive so the overall weight is not too bad. Do take your time when doing this, the first go round I did this I was rushing a bit and discovered that the deck organizer makes a nice knife able to cut through the cover of the main halyard that is being used to support the mast while raising (forgot to lead halyard through mast base block first before leading it to organizer-luckily was able to get it down before more mayhem ensued and learned lesson not to rush). With respect to cockpit size it is nice and long. A few caveats though, the seats are not super wide, the backrests are not super high and the cockpit seats are broken up a bit by the main traveler which is roughly mid cockpit. I am 6'1" though and it is plenty long. On the plus side too by being mid cockpit the main sheet is in easy reach of the helmsman. The class experts can chime in here but I think somewhere between 300 and 400ish series boat the change was made to vinylester resin, an improvement for blistering. The separate private head is a huge plus, on the flip side it can be a little challenging to get into the V berth due to the dagger board trunk being in the way. There is a nicely engineered drop leaf table that fits into the V berth when not in use, main cabin when in use. A factory option was a cabinet above the galley area for extra storage, a nice plus but pretty rare as most boats were ordered without. The boat was very nicely engineered, not surprising given who penned the lines. Things like there is about a 15 degree cant to the deck in the cockpit area such then when the boat is healed over and you are sitting on those decks, they are now level. With respect to the well used boat you are looking at I agree with others that I would pass on it for purchase. That said, this is likely the closest 7.9 you will ever be to geographically, so could make sense to take a look just to see what a 7.9 looks like in person. I had something similar, there was a boat I was interested in that geographically could typically be found 1400 miles (one way) away from me. Luckily one came up for sale about 3 hrs (one way) away from me about 2 years ago. So I went to look and although I did not end up buying that particular boat, I did like it well enough to pursue a nicer/much newer version that was 1400 miles away and purchased. Long story short, they are great boats and I doubt you would be disappointed if you decided to get one whether it be now or later. I know I owned mine for 7 years and always thought it a great boat both then and now.
  5. @last

    Upgrade from Merit 22 to S2 7.9, worth it?

    Having actually owned a 7.9 I can vouch as many others here already have that is a nice, well built boat that would well suit your stated needs. That said as you have surmised the one listed looks less than pristine/project boat, etc. I think your assessment of if it looks pretty bad visually it is probably a pretty good clue as to what type of care it has had. My personal bias too is when owners make "enhancements" to the boat such as adding a wood stove. If a person lived in Alaska then they should purchase a boat suitable for that purpose but again I tend to be a bit of a purist in that respect. The other Merit 22 sounds nicer than yours but as others have mentioned the 7.9 would be a nice step up lengthwise/build quality/performance, etc. That said everyone operates on a budget and if a nice 7.9 is not in your budget (read 10-15kish) plus the drive to where most are located (East of the Mississippi) then perhaps the nicer Merit 22 makes more sense. If you want a boat you might be happy with for a longer period of time though, my suggestion would be to save for the 7.9 and purchase it down the road. My only other caveat is that the tow vehicle needed for the 7.9 is going to be much bigger than for the merit 22 capacity wise. All up with a galvanized trailer 6k tow capacity for the 7.9 would not be excessive.
  6. A few random thoughts based on above posts. I agree with 5184 on many points, as mentioned earlier what the ask is, has really no relation to what the boat will finally sell for. Every seller thinks their boat is worth x dollars, yet if that were true why does the boat remain unsold and you are even having this conversation if seller was correct. Timing for sellers to accept reality is quite a different matter. Some (serious) sellers come this realization quickly, others can take years. The most extreme example I have seen of this was not a j24 but did take 10 years for the seller to finally realize the boat was not worth what he thought it was. I also agree with 5184 that private party is the way to get the best deal, sellers tend to rationalize that if a broker is collecting 10% then they will just mark the boat up 10%, but that never works as the boat is only worth what the buyer is willing to pay, not and abitrary 10% charge they have added in their mind when setting the sell price. The pawn shop person sounds like he or she is in outer space and at some point down the road (could be far down the road) will lower the price to what someone is willing to pay. Final thoughts too are that even one design boats are evolutionary. My 1987 features what I would call a "mini dock box/stair"in addition to the cooler that is very nice with additional storage for lines/blocks, tools/etc. Later hull numbers eliminated cockpit lockers, some good points (increased safety) some bad (less convenient place for easy access to fenders/portable gas tank for O/B, etc). I prefer the Lewmar forward hatch that is standard on mine to the older style glass one, rudder differences, etc. The link to the third one looks pretty promising to me. Melges 24 same way though, early boats had nav lights, different style of trailer bunks, non reinforcement of stantion bases, etc. Either way best wishes, although the boat has fallen out of favor on SA as it is not the latest and greatest, the J24 was a well thought out boat for the vintage that it is and represents a great value/bang for the buck in my book. Bonus too that it can be micro cruised, I did 8 days in the Florida keys with the boat and loved it, not something that would be as nice on like an open sport boat such as a Viper, etc.
  7. Good discussion with lots of valid points. As a 24 owner I can tell you I paid about 6k for my Triad trailer, a dual axle with needed options and that was about 5 years ago. That said, I think the estimates of depending on what you wanted to do of putting 18-23k into the boat are not that far off. What you sell for would be dramatically different though. What current asking prices for the boat bear NO resemblance to what the boats actually sell for. These boats are not rare one off Hinckley or Morris and as such you are competing with 5500ish other boats and at the end of the day, the boat is worth exactly what the buyer is willing to pay for it, not what you hope to get as a seller or what you have into it. That said, reason seldom plays a part in any boat purchase or ownership, so at the end of the day if you have an attachment to a particular hull number or as others have mentioned if you like doing all the work needed to do what makes you happy and go for it. FWIW I bought a 1987 hull and did a lot of small fixes (running rigging, new canvas, varnish, etc) as I wanted to go sailing more than major work on the boat, but every owners situation and desires are different, so you will have to figure out. Either way have fun and good luck, keep us posted on what you decide and if you go through with it, pics and thoughts along the way are helpful for others who may consider this as am sure there are many more reading it that are thinking the same thing as you are.
  8. @last

    the greatest

    +1 vote for Passage, a lot of history for sure. I think I might add Merlin/Blondie to the list as what I kind of view the pro type SC 70 and then the "new and improved" version. That said it is a pretty subject list and you could include everything from a Laser upwards and not be wrong. "
  9. @last

    West Michigan Thread

    Have not heard anything about a course change. As a participant agree that yes, I like the informal nature of the race, the super easy logistics and having a nice overnight/dinner at tip in GH. Made my slip res I think in March maybe? Anyways, here is hoping that change doesn't sent course too far out into lake as being in a smaller boat that might impact decision to race/participate.
  10. @last

    CRW 2018

    Thanks for the recap, much appreciated!
  11. @last

    CRW 2018

    Any updates on what is happening down there? Was first day a no air affair?
  12. @last

    what was it?

    Looks very similar to the N/M 25 Easy GO. If I recall correctly there also was a G&S 26, sort of a mini version of the custom 30 I sail on that was kicking around Florida a bit ago.
  13. @last

    Anyone know what loft this logo is from?

    I believe it is from Goose Island Sail makers in Chicago. Perhaps some anarchists from the windy can comment or you might try this guy as it sounds like he worked for them. http://madsails.com/about.html
  14. @last

    Fazisi Front Page

    Glenn and other posts directly above, thanks for the update. Although I don't claim to be a marketing expert and perhaps it would not generate enough income, my 2 cents would be to sell T shirts with the boat name and sail number on front and covering a large portion of the back the sickle and hammer symbols from the old days/Russian heritage. I would think you could get like $25 each plus shipping for a plain white short sleeve cotton T. Of course it takes large dollars to run large boats, so perhaps this would not be enough but it is just a thought.
  15. I think you pretty much have probably answered your own question and hit the nail on the head in all categories/thoughts. The J24 can't have too much carrying cost (initial cost, maintenance, etc) so for now hold and wait and see how it plays out. The J70 class looks like it has some potential for club level stuff in the sense that 1-hull numbers are now in 4 digits, could be wrong but I think like 13-1400ish and I think perhaps room to get to 1600ish in the next few years. If so, the available pool for used boats could be potentially nearly double what the M24 is. 2-So you have a few strategies here, one, like you say try and come up with sort of a sportboat "run what ya brung" class. Two perhaps try and regrow the J24 class. I realize that they are never going to be as sexy/new/updated a boat as either the M24 or J70, but, and this is a big but, they are very low cost boats to buy with hull numbers in the 5500's/large available pool of inexpensive boats and as such it may be easier to attract newbies to the class with a low cost to enter. Suspect too that the J70 class at the moment has a fair number of people in it who are willing to travel a good distant for regatta's with the ensuing expenses (motel, gas, meals, entry fee, etc) and as these road warriors leave the class, perhaps there will be some trickle down of boats congregating to the lower level/weekend warrior type budgets. Either way I think you have it spot on and figured out. Good luck, fun choices/problems to have.