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Abbreviated rules 07/28/2017
Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules. Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo. Warning and or timeout for a first offense. PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members. See above for penalties. Caveat: if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods. We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post. We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking. There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious. There is no standard, we will know it when we see it. If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining. Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious. Deal with it. Welcome to anarchy. If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to. They will be explained to you soon enough.
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I have a J/27. If you find one that isn't water logged or completely rotted out down below, you will have yourself an excellent little boat that sails well in most conditions. It's not hard to get up to speed, easy to maintain and sails are "reasonable". They are fairly sturdy in terms of build and love big breeze. The deep, stern hung rudder will get you out of most operator induced driving errors and the boat really has no bad habits other than it's a little sticky in the real light stuff.
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There is one in Buffalo NY, that is sunk on land...... I'm sure the owner would sell it.
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Klacko Marine built a replacement spar for one of my dad's boats with that same setup. Offshore Spars has also done this. On many older J boats, the cutout slot in the mast becomes elongated and requires stainless steel doubler plates to remove the play.
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I would be very Leary of using the bulkhead for a measurement station. It's been my experience that there is a fair bit of variance from boat to boat. The location of the mast butt is better determined measuring from the deck/transom intersection. It as easy as andys suggestion, but more accurate. PM if you like.
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Every mainsail that we ever built with a boltrope luff and a transverse batten(s) had teflon tape sewn over the bolt rope directly infront of the batten recepticle. Transverse battens compress on the luff and can prematurely wear out the boltrope. Another culprit Could be if the batten recpticle is set to close to the boltrope. A reputable sailmaker should pull up the batten recepticle and sew on some teflon as part of a warranty repair. Also, the batten recepticle should be installed parallel to the boltrope, not canted to match the angle of the batten pocket if I recall correctly. As for the batten not passing through the backstay, the batten may be a touch to long and extend past the lech end of the pocket. It's been my experience that mainsails with one transverse batten rarely hang up on the backstay in anything, but the lightest of conditions. Maybe have the guy who's bleeding the backstay off after the tack to power up the sailplan can give the backstay a flick to clear the batten. As for bending the mast with the check stays to clear the batten, what a crock of shit. You also could experiment with a softer batten for lighter air, this may help and may improve sail shape in light conditions.
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I bought evo race winches to replace the old barients on my J/27. The difference is the self-tailing mechanism is hard core aluminum and not chromed bronze and the top of the winch has a carbon insert. I am satisfied with them and the power ratio in relation to the barients they replaced is comparable. Price was a consideration when I made the choice. West marine had a buy 1 get one free, plus they priced matched a online competitor. The savings was so significant, that it negated my original intention to buy the harkens. 1/2 a season in, no regrets.
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Correct!
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The fuses are standard and easily sourced. Although a new panel might not be a terrible idea if yours is corroded or cobbled together by previous owners.
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All the T track on the boat is one inch black anodized aluminum track by Schaefer marine. The original foredeck hatch was made by Bomar. The later boats had lewmar hatches. I replaced my crappy old Bomar hatch with a lewmar offshore style hatch. I think I've seen pictures of the inside of your boat, it was completely gutted correct? I doubt if you can buy much in the way of parts that are specific to the J/27 anymore. Windows would be easy enough to fabricate using the old ones as patterns. Same applies for hatchboard. You can replace the white plastic sliding hatch runners with anodized aluminum u channel from McMaster Carr.
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What happened to all the inventory Quick Vangs and parts, as well as gooseneck toggles for popular small boats like J/27, Alerion 28's and older J/80's??
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Serious question, how do I put Walking Dude on ignore? He's clearly dealing with alternative facts and realities.
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OMG dude, that was so last administration. Get a fucking clue and let's all stick to current events.
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I use Doyle. I sail against other J/27's with North and Haarstick now quantum Inventories. I sold all the Haarstick sails when I worked for them. I'm confident Q in Rochester could build a adequate sail. With that said, the Doyle's are consistently fast and I don't seem to be lacking in any conditions. When I do find myself with a boatspeed issue, it's operator error. The core inventory consists of a XC 6.5 Dimension Yarn Temper mainsail, Carbon-Black Aramid Stratis 155%AP and a .6 Airx S2.
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Why not stick the tuff luff accessory Kevlar chafe guard over the cracked portion.
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Any advantage to the wheel or owner preference?