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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

Vincent DePillis

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  1. 😂😂
  2. O30-- What about size of crew required relative to Olson 30? Did you consider any other boats? Be interesting to do a statistical comparison, Seascape to O/30. HE -- Sail area/displacement, ballast ratio, AVS, etc. They really are an interesting comparison-- similar in program, 30 years apart
  3. Saw a Seascape 27 in the flesh this morning at CSR. What an interesting boat. I just love the concept and the detailing-- swing keel, outboard in well, etc. Unfortunately the boat was headed for Lake Union before I got a chance for a second look. It is definitely a bit surprising looking-- slab sided, blunt bowed and fat ass. It all seems purposeful and modern to me, so different from our usual stock of 30 year old PHRF boats. I hope to see it out racing when I can get my boat back in the water. Love to hear what the owner thinks of it.
  4. The dix boat has a lifting bulb keel! Looks very sweet, if maybe a little fragile? I like the Square top version. Love the wood interior.
  5. Tucky- not sure about Raw rig details. Mizzmo- my guess, based on a few anecdotes and absolutely no theoretical grounding, is that a straight forestay will be usefully more efficient than a properly cut sail on a slack forestay. I tried to get an answer on this on boat design.net, but did not get a definitive response. But the other issue is that on a three wire rotating rig, the forestay sag varies with wind speed- a lot. So your design job shape will always be a compromise.
  6. Found pic of Raw 30, looks like running back goes to outboard end of rear beam.
  7. Sail-- on the Raw 30, do running backs go to transom? Pix? When you say "chainplates too far forward" not sure what you are saying-- on the F31, the chainplates already take the shrouds, and they are not that far aft of the mast. Tucky-- you mean the three points of tension are forestay, windward shroud, and windward running back, right? Leeward shroud always gonna be slack, even w running backs, right? Runnning backs at outboard end of aft beam might work, but I think it would take a lot more force to get the same effect on the forestay than if you run to transom.
  8. I have contemplated installing running backs on my F31 many times, and never gotten around to it. My goal would be to get control over forestay sag. It would be really nice to be able to have a twisted off main without at the same time bagging out the forestay. I have the Omohundro mast with the Jesus shackle, and Dux shrouds and forestay . I am thinking of luggage tagging a running back onto one of the shroud thimbles at the jesus shackle, and running it to transom. Use lo friction rings to create a 2:1 purchase, and lead purchase to spin winch on cockpit combing. Have to reinforce attachment point obv. Be easier to run it to spin block at intersection of aft beam and float, but I don't think the angle of pull would be near as efficient in tensioning the forestay. Any of you crazies ever do or consider such a thing? .
  9. F31 owner v happy w north proprietary polyester spin.
  10. Oof. Makes sense that mixing thickened epoxy would be difficult. I did small (144) gram batches, mixed a long time, but still... Guess I gotta get better at doing my own fairing compound. Mixing thickeners until it looks right is too haphazard. Need a recipe. Thx all.
  11. Rasper-- no nose job yet, gotta finish this one. shoot me a PM next time you up here. Nelson, not gonna go all the way around. Just lap 3" onto top and bottom surface. I figure that 3" of bonding surface loaded in shear will be sufficient for the loads in question. The actual net rail itself has about 30oz of carbon, lapping 2.5" on to the beam face. This hoop lam is belt added to suspenders.
  12. Yep plan is to get some carbon from top of beam (i.e. bond line loaded in shear) down to apex of tube in a straight line, and then from them down around the bottom corner of the beam (again in a straight line).' The problem with the existing lamination is that the loads can be cantilevered (as in the circumstance where you step on net next to attachment point), and also at right angles to the face of the beam (as in where you reef on lacing line to get a drum tight net). The proposed strapping will be on top of foam filler, and will be loaded in tension (except maybe compression below the net, which who cares. . . toughened epoxy because I can't help complicating things.
  13. Trying to finish my godam, mothrfukin, coksukin, sonofabitchin project of replacing the stock floats with all carbon higher vol. floats and the beams, with carbon cheekee monkee beams. I got the net rails on the beams, started fairing, and then started having nightmares about them peeling off the face of the beams. Now going back with some carbon strapping on either side of the planned lacing apertures. Project is kicking my ass, and I had the floats built in the Phillipines! I can't imagine building a whole boat. Though with what I know now, I could do the whole project in a quarter of the time.
  14. Problem: Am in the unfortunate situation where I have to bond to a faired surface. Background: Fairing compound is System Three Quick Fair, an epoxy based, premixed marine specific fairing compound. The part to which I am bonding (trimaran beam) is structural and I can't afford (structurally) to grind off all the fairing compound. The bonding I am doing is not super critical (post facto peace of mind reinforcement of rod in tube net rail). Plan: Grind off the fairing till the carbon shows in high spots, but without trying to get it out of the weave. Rough up with hand sand 60 grit. Coat with a toughened flexible epoxy adhesive (e.g. Pro-Set 175-276) and then laminate on top of that wet on wet with compatible Pro-Set laminating resin. Advice?
  15. Don't really know loads, but suspect I have lots of leeway-- replacing ⅜ axle with ½, and going from 1/1 to 2/1. 450 sq foot main on F31 tri. Issue is that I need the axle to be threaded-- so that I can clamp the sheave in place. I think I will just service the mast regularly, and build a carbon replacement at my leisure.