Vincent DePillis

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  1. 😂😂
  2. O30-- What about size of crew required relative to Olson 30? Did you consider any other boats? Be interesting to do a statistical comparison, Seascape to O/30. HE -- Sail area/displacement, ballast ratio, AVS, etc. They really are an interesting comparison-- similar in program, 30 years apart
  3. Saw a Seascape 27 in the flesh this morning at CSR. What an interesting boat. I just love the concept and the detailing-- swing keel, outboard in well, etc. Unfortunately the boat was headed for Lake Union before I got a chance for a second look. It is definitely a bit surprising looking-- slab sided, blunt bowed and fat ass. It all seems purposeful and modern to me, so different from our usual stock of 30 year old PHRF boats. I hope to see it out racing when I can get my boat back in the water. Love to hear what the owner thinks of it.
  4. The dix boat has a lifting bulb keel! Looks very sweet, if maybe a little fragile? I like the Square top version. Love the wood interior.
  5. Tucky- not sure about Raw rig details. Mizzmo- my guess, based on a few anecdotes and absolutely no theoretical grounding, is that a straight forestay will be usefully more efficient than a properly cut sail on a slack forestay. I tried to get an answer on this on boat, but did not get a definitive response. But the other issue is that on a three wire rotating rig, the forestay sag varies with wind speed- a lot. So your design job shape will always be a compromise.
  6. Found pic of Raw 30, looks like running back goes to outboard end of rear beam.
  7. Sail-- on the Raw 30, do running backs go to transom? Pix? When you say "chainplates too far forward" not sure what you are saying-- on the F31, the chainplates already take the shrouds, and they are not that far aft of the mast. Tucky-- you mean the three points of tension are forestay, windward shroud, and windward running back, right? Leeward shroud always gonna be slack, even w running backs, right? Runnning backs at outboard end of aft beam might work, but I think it would take a lot more force to get the same effect on the forestay than if you run to transom.
  8. I have contemplated installing running backs on my F31 many times, and never gotten around to it. My goal would be to get control over forestay sag. It would be really nice to be able to have a twisted off main without at the same time bagging out the forestay. I have the Omohundro mast with the Jesus shackle, and Dux shrouds and forestay . I am thinking of luggage tagging a running back onto one of the shroud thimbles at the jesus shackle, and running it to transom. Use lo friction rings to create a 2:1 purchase, and lead purchase to spin winch on cockpit combing. Have to reinforce attachment point obv. Be easier to run it to spin block at intersection of aft beam and float, but I don't think the angle of pull would be near as efficient in tensioning the forestay. Any of you crazies ever do or consider such a thing? .
  9. F31 owner v happy w north proprietary polyester spin.
  10. Oof. Makes sense that mixing thickened epoxy would be difficult. I did small (144) gram batches, mixed a long time, but still... Guess I gotta get better at doing my own fairing compound. Mixing thickeners until it looks right is too haphazard. Need a recipe. Thx all.
  11. Rasper-- no nose job yet, gotta finish this one. shoot me a PM next time you up here. Nelson, not gonna go all the way around. Just lap 3" onto top and bottom surface. I figure that 3" of bonding surface loaded in shear will be sufficient for the loads in question. The actual net rail itself has about 30oz of carbon, lapping 2.5" on to the beam face. This hoop lam is belt added to suspenders.
  12. Yep plan is to get some carbon from top of beam (i.e. bond line loaded in shear) down to apex of tube in a straight line, and then from them down around the bottom corner of the beam (again in a straight line).' The problem with the existing lamination is that the loads can be cantilevered (as in the circumstance where you step on net next to attachment point), and also at right angles to the face of the beam (as in where you reef on lacing line to get a drum tight net). The proposed strapping will be on top of foam filler, and will be loaded in tension (except maybe compression below the net, which who cares. . . toughened epoxy because I can't help complicating things.
  13. Trying to finish my godam, mothrfukin, coksukin, sonofabitchin project of replacing the stock floats with all carbon higher vol. floats and the beams, with carbon cheekee monkee beams. I got the net rails on the beams, started fairing, and then started having nightmares about them peeling off the face of the beams. Now going back with some carbon strapping on either side of the planned lacing apertures. Project is kicking my ass, and I had the floats built in the Phillipines! I can't imagine building a whole boat. Though with what I know now, I could do the whole project in a quarter of the time.
  14. Problem: Am in the unfortunate situation where I have to bond to a faired surface. Background: Fairing compound is System Three Quick Fair, an epoxy based, premixed marine specific fairing compound. The part to which I am bonding (trimaran beam) is structural and I can't afford (structurally) to grind off all the fairing compound. The bonding I am doing is not super critical (post facto peace of mind reinforcement of rod in tube net rail). Plan: Grind off the fairing till the carbon shows in high spots, but without trying to get it out of the weave. Rough up with hand sand 60 grit. Coat with a toughened flexible epoxy adhesive (e.g. Pro-Set 175-276) and then laminate on top of that wet on wet with compatible Pro-Set laminating resin. Advice?
  15. Don't really know loads, but suspect I have lots of leeway-- replacing ⅜ axle with ½, and going from 1/1 to 2/1. 450 sq foot main on F31 tri. Issue is that I need the axle to be threaded-- so that I can clamp the sheave in place. I think I will just service the mast regularly, and build a carbon replacement at my leisure.