SVArcturus

Members
  • Content Count

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About SVArcturus

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Florida/Bahamas
  • Interests
    boatbuilding & design. marine biology & oceanography

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. SVArcturus

    Plumbing advice- Lavac install

    We've been quite happy with our epoxy glass tank. At 50 gallons, it's also about the biggest one I know of (at least on a 36' boat). Our Soverel 36 had an 80 gal water tank built into the bow under the V-berth that was integral with the hull. A good size, but if you are using the boat for cruising not where you want that weight, especially with the fine entry of this design. We coverted 50 gallons of that tank to our holding tank. The great thing is that when one leaves an anchorage and heads to sea, one normally has emptied the tank (or does so once offshore), so the bow is nice and light. We don't use the holding tank on passages so the bow stays light. In an anchorage, I'm not really worried about the weight forward, and one can go a long time without pumping out AND you don't have to worry about using too much water to flush, so the lines stay clean (and odor free). It had two athwartship baffles, so I converted the tank fwd of the aft baffle to the holding tank and opened up the rest for storage. After LOTS of epoxy resin-based construction to create the holding tank, including multiple layers of resin thickened with West barrier coat additive until just able to be brushed, and using solid PVC pipe for the lines to and from the tank. It has a large, well-sealed access hatch in the top of the holding tank, 15 years later there has never been a hint of odor in the fwd cabin. I will admit to having been truly obsessive during the construction of that tank. Can't imagine the situation where a poorly-detailed integral holding tank fails and has to be replaced, especially when the tank is under the V-berth!
  2. SVArcturus

    Plumbing advice- Lavac install

    Just a side comment. Stainless steel isn't a great material for a holding tank. The combination of high organics (you know, crap) and the resulting no oxygen (because of the enormous BOD (biochemical oxygen demand) of crap means that pit corrosion is a VERY high probability. Might even be a certainty. The chemistry of this is pretty reliable, so the first scratch through the oxide coating of the sst on the bottom and corrosion will set in. Maybe some kind of interior coating could delay things, but... Just a thought.
  3. I have some Klege-cell foam from the late 90's that I'd like to use, but I can't remember the density of them. I know they color code them, and I have sheets of various thicknesses that are green and brown. Can anyone tell me what densities those sheets are?
  4. SVArcturus

    Plumbing advice- Lavac install

    Do you need a 1.5" anti-siphon loop because you are hooked directly to an overboard thruhull? My head goes to a rather large holding tank, and I have plumbing Y's in place that allow me to use the Henderson pump to either empty the head into the holding tank, or empty the holding tank overboard when we are offshore. I don't have a loop in the 1.5" waste line (the holding tank is below the head) but I do have one in the seawater flush line, which does go to a thruhull. I do love the simplicity of the Lavac head and a strong diaphragm bilge pump. Had "regular" heads before, and they were constant trouble. We've had very few problems with the Lavac.
  5. SVArcturus

    source for bronze rub railing

    BTW, nirikki, I know what you mean about prices. I found a few months ago a 'good price' on 12' of 1" silicon bronze pipe, sched 80. It was cheaper than I could find for sched 40 and still set me back $532!
  6. SVArcturus

    source for bronze rub railing

    The sst has already gone through one round of passivation/rust eating (soaked for a week in a pvc pipe full of Ospho) during the last refit. However, it already had crevice corrosion and while it cleaned up ok, it doesn't make the crevices disappear and it started again after several years despite careful bedding. I also just like the look of bronze capping on teak rub rails better! I acquired through various salvage places over several years the 3/4" bronze I used on the one side, as well as about 20' each of 1" half round and 1/2' half round. Happy to swap someone! I was hoping to get enough of one of the sizes to do the whole boat, but 3/4" is really the right size for fitting atop my shiny newly Precision Plus'ed rub rail. Since I wander around Florida at various times, I'm hoping to find someone within wander range. Shipping would, indeed, be a problem. msg, "just cut that in half?" Now that would be a fun job. :-) Think I'll pass. My hacksaw blades are all dull anyway...
  7. SVArcturus

    Plumbing advice- Lavac install

    My Lavac came with a Henderson pump, which seems to have fairly long hose-couplings. Various fittings with short hose barbs are a fairly frequent problem these days (or maybe its always been!). On the other hand, tell me about the Vetus hose. Is it silicone or something that's supposed to be more resistant to odor penetration than the pain-in-the-butt spiral-reinforced PVC hose, or is it just nicely flexible (the lack of which is what makes the PVC hose a pain-in-the-butt)?
  8. SVArcturus

    source for bronze rub railing

    Anyone know where I can get some 3/4" bronze rub rail (about 35') (the "half round" stuff). No one seems to make it anymore, so I'm assuming it might have to be from a salvage boat. I'm tired of the stainless steel stuff rusting and found enough to change one side of my boat but still need enough for the other side. Not that bronze on one side and stainless on the other wouldn't be a cutting-edge look, but...
  9. SVArcturus

    Tides mainsail track longevity

    I guess I left out some key info on the original post. Sorry 'bout that. I'm getting a set of 3Di sails that includes a full-battened main. My previous non-full batten main worked fine on the external sst track, but I think the North Sails guy doesn't think they will work for the new full-batten rig. Hence the 'upgrade' recommendations. El Boracho, I'm remembering how well the exposed anchor channel UHMW lasted on Arcturus. It's dead now (16 years after install) and I have the replacement ready. So, while still not thrilled with the idea of a UHMW track, we have a LOT of things remaining on the refit list and times running out. I don't have a clear picture of the weight difference for the two options. Not sure how the existing track/rivets plus UHMW compares with Antal/sst machine screws. Also not sure its a good idea structurally to make another series of holes along the aft edge of my spar. mgs, I agree now would be the time to install an Antal track, since the mast is horizontal and easy to work with, but it still takes time. My wife and I have to do all the refit work ourselves, so time is the limiting factor. Skilled labor for this type of work isn't available in this area, and I have a lot of experience with it from "past lives". So, now leaning back toward UHMW. Probably wait for the Ft Lauderdale boat show to see what I can get for prices for each route. Appreciate the thoughtful input!
  10. SVArcturus

    Muddy anchor chain cleaner?

    It did help that the fwd hatch on Arcturus is flush with the deck, but one could probably still rig a run over a raised hatch. Your hurricane mooring comment is closer to truth than you know. I had installed telephone pole-type screw anchors in four locations around the boat and those two lines on the bow in the picture are rigged because this was the day before last year's near miss from hurricane Irma. I could also have deployed the plow to handle storm surge! Of course, we are 30 miles from the coast and with a couple hundred feet of altitude, so the risk of that was pretty low. Trees, on the other hand, are bad news in this situation... To help keep on thread, by the base of the port pulpit stanchion one can see the bronze ball valve and garden-hose connection for the anchor wash. We also have a teak strip across the deck behind the anchor areas to help keep the muddy wash water off the rest of the foredeck. From the picture one can see a gap in the middle from when we removed an old windlass. Pluggin that is part of the refit.
  11. Anyone know how to service and rebuild Conbraco Apollo seacocks and ball valves? I understand they use some kind of thread lock on the valve body when they assemble them (something along the line of Loc-Tite?). I think that heating the ball valve a bit with a torch will release the thread lock. I'm thinking this shouldn't bother the ball valve seals since they are teflon. That said, has anyone done this and can you offer some advice on how best to proceed?
  12. SVArcturus

    Tides mainsail track longevity

    Yep, an old (1978) mast, just an aluminum oval with external tracks. I grabbed an unfortunately fuzzy picture, but it still shows the 7/8" stainless track and the rivets. The mast is waiting its turn to be painted as part of the refit.
  13. SVArcturus

    Tides mainsail track longevity

    I'm not really thrilled with the prospect of drilling out the hundred-plus sst pop rivets I installed to attach the present track and replacing them with a hundred-plus drilled and tapped machine screws for the Antal track, but as much as I like UHMW for many tasks, this one seems somehow wrong.
  14. SVArcturus

    Tides mainsail track longevity

    OK, I hate to admit this but I wrote the wrong track name. Was reading a different thread and somehow name switched with I posted mine. North ACTUALLY recommended a Strong sail track or the Antal. All other questions the same, given that the Strong system is also UHMW. Really, really sorry. I'd say "not usually this dumb" but my wife might disagree...
  15. SVArcturus

    Deck Cleats and mooring lines

    I know this is late to the thread, but I note that no one pointed out that the downside of the various eye-type fittings recommended AND of the "slip the loop through the eye of the cleat and then around the horns" is that none of them let you deal with having to change the length of the line, especially under load. A horned cleat lets you ease the line (or take it in) if you have to fairly easily. When you need to do this seems to always be with the wind up and important consequences if the adjustment is not made. You can probably get away with this with dock lines, and maybe with mooring lines, but if you anchor this way, you better be a fair-weather anchorer!