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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

dirkkruger

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About dirkkruger

  • Rank
    Anarchist

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  • Location
    Lake Michigan
  • Interests
    racing short handed, windsurfing, good rum :)
  1. I agree 100%! I didnt know that a shirt was included. I got it in the mail and was simply amazed. ~$100 for 2 years, which is $50 less than i usually pay plus a nice shirt? Not to mention the best magazine for racing sailors...wow the best deal Ive had in a long time..keep up the great work Seahorse!!
  2. Just got a flyer from Menards. $4.99, $4.00 rebate cant beat it!
  3. cant beat gum rubber soles on slippery boats. Top siders work well for me. Vans are $50 and comparable w/gum rubber soles. soles might be a bit thick. need to be broken in. the breathable shoes let water and air in, might be an issue for long duration sailing or cold water and/or cold wind. top siders have the bases covered here.
  4. Duct tape. comes in multiple colors incl. fluorescent, can be relocated. for a permanent solution its tuff to beat whipping in black or white
  5. If it smells like shit, it is ... dont believe what you want to be true, believe likely is...then again, maybe theres a divorce pending and wifey is liquidating...check it out...stranger things have happened.
  6. Its all about the brain box, not the user interface. One interface has a knob to adjust course and another has buttons. Knobs are typically sold to motor boats, buttons to sailors. Buttons will have an auto tack feature, i dont know about the knob versions.
  7. I have the same mainsheet system Meet Wad, 6:1 then 12:1, endless on the 6:1. Considering that the Phd has a load rating of 6800 lbs, I removed every other stand to leave 6 and eyespliced that back into itself. I did that to each end. I will then use a 3 loop lashing with Spectra to connect the ends. Easy-peasy splice. Even if I only get 3000 lb pull rating, its 2-3X higher than some of the blocks in the system so it should be fine. It won't feel the same when running through the hand and may need to be cleated 3" one way or the other either side of the lashing, but big deal its on a 6:1 course trim sheet. Get a few feet of PHD and be amazed! Now I don't sell it. I just openly endorse and share my findings. Best of luck!
  8. IMHO all 12 braid will have a tendency to catch or snag. I race a 36' R/C and have used 3 comparable lines, Control DPX, Salsa, Yale Phd. Control DPX did not have enough friction in my bare hand so for higher pull loads I found myself needing to wrap it around my hand. I got rid of it about a month after installing it. Salsa ok for grip but is a bit heavy. Its highest attribute is that it will not snag on itself, likely due to its weight and smooth exterior. Phd is by far the best at grip and for a given diameter is the strongest. Phd is not sold by everyone but is priced very competitively. It is VERY light in comparison to the other 2 lines. I have used it for years for head sail sheets, for 2 years on the main sail traveler lines, and this year I'm switching out for it for the main sheet. It runs as easy as the others through blocks, cleats well. The strand construction is very unique which provides the great grip. Very easy to splice. Best of luck to you.
  9. "Provides a safer hook-up to 30A dockside power for up to three attached tools, and provides protection against potentially lethal electric shock. GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor) trips at 4–6mA. Total load of attached tools must not exceed 15A." I interpret this as meaning that an extension cord rated at 15 amps will work just fine. Loads above this will trip the breaker. The device simply allows hook up to a 30A plug commonly found at a dockside power box with a 15A breaker and GFCI circuit with 3 female outlets. I have a 75 ft cord used for travel that works great. Basically only charging the batteries, running the fridge, and charging misc electronics
  10. The cleat looks like it might be a brand called "Servo Cleat". If so just buy another one. Their website shows the sizes of cleats and the hole spacing. APS sells them, as well as other places. Good luck!
  11. Time to Chime....I've owned and raced a 110 for 10 years. Its a great all around boat...does well in 3 to 15 knots TWS. Above that the light weight boats go a bit better down wind, but the weight of the 110 will do better in the same conditions upwind. I've had a "higher profile" professional sailor on the boat that complimented the balance of the helm In LW/WW courses sym boats will likely always have an advantage to asym boats, however tactics, boat handling, and trim still wins the day. I sail my boat solo against crewed boats and hold my own buoy racing or distance races. The rating of 81 is fair. The boat is set up to be sailed short handed. If raced crewed I would advise swapping the position of the fore and aft winches in the cockpit so that the larger ones are forward or just replace the forward winches with larger ones. I also race against 115 and 36.7's. The 115 has non overlapping jibs and a bigger main to make up for it. the 110 is rated fairly against the 115. The cherry wood interior of the c&c's is warm and comfortable. Its a solid boat. Believe it or not, I'm pretty sure a 36.7 has never corrected over me..had to throw that one in, but its true. You would not make a mistake in buying a 110. Boats since the end of 2004 were epoxy hulls and carbon masts. I paid market value for the boat in 2006 and asking price on the web is comparable to what I paid..beat that...if it has value to you...good luck in your quest.
  12. I've investigated the stored energy issue myself for the spin drop/hoist. In a discussion with Harken about this about 5 years ago the energy required to do the drop/hoist would be considered by some rating authorities such as PHRF as excessive stored energy. At the time Harken was developing what is now used as in the foilers, the accumulators and 3 stage oil pressure generators. I had considered generating oil pressure via stair stepper concept since hydraulic pressure is easier to control via a lever operated proportional valve. At the end of the day I developed a continuous line drop system using a grinding pedestal mounted in the companionway that I developed. It can be used to hoist or drop the chute and is nearly flawless.
  13. Hit this site and check the lake of choice: http://www.lre.usace.army.mil/Missions/GreatLakesInformation/GreatLakesWaterLevels/WaterLevelForecast/MonthlyBulletinofGreatLakesWaterLevels.aspx
  14. Just read the army corps of eng site posted above. Duh, coasty must of flunked chart reading. how about 1.3 feet???
  15. I found my preious post on the topic and edited it a bit for this one: I have been working on such a system to be used on a 36 foot R/C with sprit. It's taken 3 years but it works well and results in a very competitive system. The biggest issue I have seen in posts and videos is in keeping the sail, particularly the foot, out of the water. Last year I sucessfully used this system racing solo competively in a beer can fleet without an auopilot. The chute never hit the water and the retrieval process can be abandoned halfway through the douse if a steering adjustment needs to be made. The system has proven successful for winds ranging from 3 to 25 knots sailing solo. I have applied retrieval patches to 2 sails, one is a 1/2 oz, 8 years old chute, and the olther a 4 year old 3/4 oz chute. Some posters have warned of excessive wear and tear to chutes in such systems, however my chutes show no such signs. My system has many traits that have been mentioned including a faired foredeck hatch with aft roller, and a "runway" or sock to contain the chute. My sock has 2 levels which each having one of the above mentioned chutes. The sheets and retieval lines stay on the sail and all are rerun when a chute change is made. The retreival line runs from the foredeck hatch and to pulleys at the aft end of the aft stateroom, then back to the mast, and then through the companionway to the cockpit. For my solo set up, the halyard and retrieval line are tied together so that both lines are handled concurrently in a controlled fashion. This permits my leaving the dousing operation described earlier. The beauty of the dousing system is not only the speed at which it comes down, but the sail does not need to be packed since it is in the sock. If I had crew there would be no need for anyone to be on the foredeck or down below packing. This means that imediately after the douse and rounding the mark, all crew can be hiking hard. One key element to making my system work is how I am pulling from the chute and how I can control where it is being pulled, and having it reset for a hoist unattended. The big question: What would one pay for a retrieval system as described? Please be nice