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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

dirkkruger

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About dirkkruger

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    Anarchist

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  • Location
    Lake Michigan
  • Interests
    racing short handed, windsurfing, good rum :)
  1. I agree 100%! I didnt know that a shirt was included. I got it in the mail and was simply amazed. ~$100 for 2 years, which is $50 less than i usually pay plus a nice shirt? Not to mention the best magazine for racing sailors...wow the best deal Ive had in a long time..keep up the great work Seahorse!!
  2. Just got a flyer from Menards. $4.99, $4.00 rebate cant beat it!
  3. cant beat gum rubber soles on slippery boats. Top siders work well for me. Vans are $50 and comparable w/gum rubber soles. soles might be a bit thick. need to be broken in. the breathable shoes let water and air in, might be an issue for long duration sailing or cold water and/or cold wind. top siders have the bases covered here.
  4. Duct tape. comes in multiple colors incl. fluorescent, can be relocated. for a permanent solution its tuff to beat whipping in black or white
  5. If it smells like shit, it is ... dont believe what you want to be true, believe likely is...then again, maybe theres a divorce pending and wifey is liquidating...check it out...stranger things have happened.
  6. Its all about the brain box, not the user interface. One interface has a knob to adjust course and another has buttons. Knobs are typically sold to motor boats, buttons to sailors. Buttons will have an auto tack feature, i dont know about the knob versions.
  7. I have the same mainsheet system Meet Wad, 6:1 then 12:1, endless on the 6:1. Considering that the Phd has a load rating of 6800 lbs, I removed every other stand to leave 6 and eyespliced that back into itself. I did that to each end. I will then use a 3 loop lashing with Spectra to connect the ends. Easy-peasy splice. Even if I only get 3000 lb pull rating, its 2-3X higher than some of the blocks in the system so it should be fine. It won't feel the same when running through the hand and may need to be cleated 3" one way or the other either side of the lashing, but big deal its on a 6:1 course trim sheet. Get a few feet of PHD and be amazed! Now I don't sell it. I just openly endorse and share my findings. Best of luck!
  8. IMHO all 12 braid will have a tendency to catch or snag. I race a 36' R/C and have used 3 comparable lines, Control DPX, Salsa, Yale Phd. Control DPX did not have enough friction in my bare hand so for higher pull loads I found myself needing to wrap it around my hand. I got rid of it about a month after installing it. Salsa ok for grip but is a bit heavy. Its highest attribute is that it will not snag on itself, likely due to its weight and smooth exterior. Phd is by far the best at grip and for a given diameter is the strongest. Phd is not sold by everyone but is priced very competitively. It is VERY light in comparison to the other 2 lines. I have used it for years for head sail sheets, for 2 years on the main sail traveler lines, and this year I'm switching out for it for the main sheet. It runs as easy as the others through blocks, cleats well. The strand construction is very unique which provides the great grip. Very easy to splice. Best of luck to you.
  9. "Provides a safer hook-up to 30A dockside power for up to three attached tools, and provides protection against potentially lethal electric shock. GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor) trips at 4–6mA. Total load of attached tools must not exceed 15A." I interpret this as meaning that an extension cord rated at 15 amps will work just fine. Loads above this will trip the breaker. The device simply allows hook up to a 30A plug commonly found at a dockside power box with a 15A breaker and GFCI circuit with 3 female outlets. I have a 75 ft cord used for travel that works great. Basically only charging the batteries, running the fridge, and charging misc electronics
  10. The cleat looks like it might be a brand called "Servo Cleat". If so just buy another one. Their website shows the sizes of cleats and the hole spacing. APS sells them, as well as other places. Good luck!
  11. Time to Chime....I've owned and raced a 110 for 10 years. Its a great all around boat...does well in 3 to 15 knots TWS. Above that the light weight boats go a bit better down wind, but the weight of the 110 will do better in the same conditions upwind. I've had a "higher profile" professional sailor on the boat that complimented the balance of the helm In LW/WW courses sym boats will likely always have an advantage to asym boats, however tactics, boat handling, and trim still wins the day. I sail my boat solo against crewed boats and hold my own buoy racing or distance races. The rating of 81 is fair. The boat is set up to be sailed short handed. If raced crewed I would advise swapping the position of the fore and aft winches in the cockpit so that the larger ones are forward or just replace the forward winches with larger ones. I also race against 115 and 36.7's. The 115 has non overlapping jibs and a bigger main to make up for it. the 110 is rated fairly against the 115. The cherry wood interior of the c&c's is warm and comfortable. Its a solid boat. Believe it or not, I'm pretty sure a 36.7 has never corrected over me..had to throw that one in, but its true. You would not make a mistake in buying a 110. Boats since the end of 2004 were epoxy hulls and carbon masts. I paid market value for the boat in 2006 and asking price on the web is comparable to what I paid..beat that...if it has value to you...good luck in your quest.
  12. I've investigated the stored energy issue myself for the spin drop/hoist. In a discussion with Harken about this about 5 years ago the energy required to do the drop/hoist would be considered by some rating authorities such as PHRF as excessive stored energy. At the time Harken was developing what is now used as in the foilers, the accumulators and 3 stage oil pressure generators. I had considered generating oil pressure via stair stepper concept since hydraulic pressure is easier to control via a lever operated proportional valve. At the end of the day I developed a continuous line drop system using a grinding pedestal mounted in the companionway that I developed. It can be used to hoist or drop the chute and is nearly flawless.
  13. Hit this site and check the lake of choice: http://www.lre.usace.army.mil/Missions/GreatLakesInformation/GreatLakesWaterLevels/WaterLevelForecast/MonthlyBulletinofGreatLakesWaterLevels.aspx
  14. Just read the army corps of eng site posted above. Duh, coasty must of flunked chart reading. how about 1.3 feet???
  15. I found my preious post on the topic and edited it a bit for this one: I have been working on such a system to be used on a 36 foot R/C with sprit. It's taken 3 years but it works well and results in a very competitive system. The biggest issue I have seen in posts and videos is in keeping the sail, particularly the foot, out of the water. Last year I sucessfully used this system racing solo competively in a beer can fleet without an auopilot. The chute never hit the water and the retrieval process can be abandoned halfway through the douse if a steering adjustment needs to be made. The system has proven successful for winds ranging from 3 to 25 knots sailing solo. I have applied retrieval patches to 2 sails, one is a 1/2 oz, 8 years old chute, and the olther a 4 year old 3/4 oz chute. Some posters have warned of excessive wear and tear to chutes in such systems, however my chutes show no such signs. My system has many traits that have been mentioned including a faired foredeck hatch with aft roller, and a "runway" or sock to contain the chute. My sock has 2 levels which each having one of the above mentioned chutes. The sheets and retieval lines stay on the sail and all are rerun when a chute change is made. The retreival line runs from the foredeck hatch and to pulleys at the aft end of the aft stateroom, then back to the mast, and then through the companionway to the cockpit. For my solo set up, the halyard and retrieval line are tied together so that both lines are handled concurrently in a controlled fashion. This permits my leaving the dousing operation described earlier. The beauty of the dousing system is not only the speed at which it comes down, but the sail does not need to be packed since it is in the sock. If I had crew there would be no need for anyone to be on the foredeck or down below packing. This means that imediately after the douse and rounding the mark, all crew can be hiking hard. One key element to making my system work is how I am pulling from the chute and how I can control where it is being pulled, and having it reset for a hoist unattended. The big question: What would one pay for a retrieval system as described? Please be nice