kevinjones16

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About kevinjones16

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    http://www.backbeatsailing.com

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    Seattle

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  1. kevinjones16

    Painting a racing dinghy

    Ditto Sloop JonB. I repainted my mast in June with Brightside. Prepped surfaces carefully, primed a few bare spots with zinc chromate, primed the whole thing with the Interlux primer. After lots of sanding and fussing I used the Interlux solvent wipe and then rolled and tipped the paint thinned with the Interlux thinner. The paint goes on thin. You really do need the good foam brushes to tip. After three coats and a week of waiting I machine polished the mast with Finesse-It II Glaze and then Finesse-It II polish. It looks great up to about six inches, and even then I'm pretty sure I'm the only one who can see the flaws. I painted a Lightning the same way with good results. I also painted a C-Lark dinghy that way and got good results. The Lightning was my "learn-to-paint" boat. I thinned the paint too much, so it got four coats. I wish I hadn't sold it.
  2. kevinjones16

    Fixing a Pad Eye to the deck with no access below

    Maybe you can find a rivnut with a wide flange.
  3. kevinjones16

    Pacific Northwest Winterization - what are you doing

    Same as Alex, IStream and Wristwister. Dinghy on deck, heater set to come on at 40 degrees, dehumidifier, and fans to move the air around. We sometimes rig a heavy canvas tarp over the boom, but haven't yet this year. We sail in every season.
  4. kevinjones16

    Building a boom

    RigRite (www.rigrite.com) has parts for almost any extrusion ever made. Catalina Direct (www.catalinadirect.com) also has tons of parts.
  5. kevinjones16

    Adding running backs to Solent

    First, call a real rigger for advice. Second, just because you haven't seen pumping doesn't mean you won't. The mast of one boat I was on seemed fine in 35 knots of wind, but started jumping around like one of those car lot tube dancers at 50 knots +. When that happens, you'll want to know that someone with skill and experience did the rigging math--even if you install the stays yourself.
  6. kevinjones16

    ST1000+ repair

    I had the same thing happen to two of my ST2000s on a trip from Seattle to San Francisco. I could not find parts to repair them myself. Raymarine replaced one under warranty, and repaired the other one out of warranty for about $150, IIRC. As TQA said, your ST1000 is most likely just dead. The tiny drive belt starts losing teeth if the drive routinely hits either end of its range of motion. The plastic gear teeth start to round over. The bearing fails, and the gasket you described ends up as gasket dust inside the housing. If you end up replacing your tillerpilot, consider Pelagic Autopilots. They're made by a solo sailor who understands the need for reliability under hard use. My first ST2000 lasted for years and worked great sailing around Puget Sound. It failed on day three of my offshore trip, where it received continuous use. I replaced it with a spare, which lasted about two more days at sea. In fairness to the ST2000s that I ruined, my boat at the time was light and fast, and really hard to steer well downwind. Those tillerpilots got a hell of a workout before they failed.
  7. kevinjones16

    Sailing solo from Neah Bay down to San Fran

    The first time I sailed Seattle to San Francisco I was solo in a 3,000 pound racer and got nailed by some really tough weather. I was scared to death. You pick your window and go, though, and sometimes it turns nasty anyway. When it does, you'll be better off with some sea room and a drogue than trying to beat a storm into port. Honestly, if your boat is well-prepped, a bad weather surprise is a great opportunity to try out your storm handling skills. It will be scary and uncomfortable, but you won't likely be in life-threatening danger, and you'll get to SF with new confidence in your skills. The problem with being close to the coast in bad weather is that you'll only be a few hours from being dashed on rocks, and bars will close if it gets too bad. I'd only go close down the coast with a full crew.
  8. kevinjones16

    Sailing solo from Neah Bay down to San Fran

    I've done that trip solo. There's quit a bit of traffic in the first 40 miles off the coast, and a lot of commercial fish boats don't use their AIS transponders. My humble opinion, based on my own experience, is to go out at least to 125W, or farther, follow the meridian South, and turn in to SF Bay when you have a nice shot under the bridge. It's much less stressful than trying to harbor-hop down a dangerous coastline. You appear to be well-equipped, so give it a go.
  9. You need an eye terminal. If you're handy you can use a mechanical fitting. If not, a rigger can make you a new forestay with a swage eye terminal. The pins should be sized correctly for your fittings. I've seen people use pins that are too small for the fitting, and it looks sketchy. I've also seen people drill out holes in fittings to use a pin that's a bit too large. That seems sketchy too.
  10. kevinjones16

    Final year design project

    I have an Aries lift up windvane. I have a lot of experience with it on a different boat, but it is not mounted on mine yet. I’d like plans and engineering for a mount that incorporates an emergency/auxiliary rudder ahead of the pendulum rudder. It should be in a cassette so it can easily be installed and removed. The windvane normally turns the wheel, but if the main steering fails or the main rudder is lost, I’d like to be able to use the emergency/auxiliary rudder with the Aries. If the main steering fails, the main rudder is lost, and for some reason the Aries can’t steer the auxiliary/emergency rudder, it should have a way to steer it manually. Maybe a bellcrank with control lines, or a way to attach a tiller. Oh, and it should be lightweight and pretty. Windpilot vane gear is one example of the concept. Hydrovane gear uses an auxiliary rudder. This contraption will be used on the ocean. It needs to be ORC category 0/1 compliant. Thank you!
  11. kevinjones16

    Naval Architect/GC recommendations for major refit

    Option 3 is probably your best bet. Call Swiftsure Yachts. They're brokers, but they have a lot of experience helping people do what you've described.
  12. kevinjones16

    Babe or Boat?

    You’re not very creative with the insult game, and I’m still younger, fitter, better looking and wealthier than you—with a wife AND a boat! Last poster is an asshat . . . aaaand, Go!
  13. kevinjones16

    Babe or Boat?

    If I were a woman I’d sail with you. When your shit got old I’d flick you off with a crash jibe and sail away in my new boat. I’d sell everything on it that didn’t have a title, and then sell the empty hull to pirates. You can tell a lot about people by what they’re willing to put in writing publicly. Your OP is not even an interesting thought experiment. I have powers, which I’m always keen to use, so you’ve been hexed. You’ll never sail your hypothetical trip and, according to my lovely wife, who had a good laugh at your expense , you’ll be pounding your own pud for the foreseeable future. Ha ha ha.
  14. kevinjones16

    Bottom paint dust removal

    Same thing just happened to me. I bought an electric pressure washer for $99 at Lowes. That, some boat soap, some West Marine fiberglass stain remover, a little Soft Scrub, and four hours of elbow grease got about 99% of it off. I have a few soft spots to repair so the whole deck will be painted next year when I do that. Until then I can live with my results. No one but me can tell the deck was ever covered in bottom paint dust. The worst thing is that I had brought plastic to the yard to cover the deck. I just dove in and forgot about it. SMH—at myself.
  15. kevinjones16

    Worth repairing C-lark 14?

    If you plan to own older boats for the rest of your life, repairing your C-Lark is a great way to hone your GRP skills. C-Larks are fun. I have one. Get in there and fix yours, and don’t worry about getting your money back. Boats are not investments. One day you’ll buy a boat for $30,000, put another $30,000 into it, and end up with a $35,000 boat. What you’ll learn about GRP repair on your C-Lark will stay with you for every boat you ever work on, and it will be a relatively inexpensive lesson.