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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

knobblyoldjimbo

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About knobblyoldjimbo

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    effinque (FNQ) AUS

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  1. Seized s/s bolts

    hooya - deeper penetration!!!
  2. Seized s/s bolts

    It was a drill with a hole inside - that simple. I think it said diamond but for the money (A$12) I don't think diamonds had much to do with it it did have a rough coating though. All it had to do was drill around the screw which was mainly fibreglass except for the very end which was an alum plate, I guess 1/4 inch or less. I've drilled s/s and didn't like it. Here we go: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIAMOND-HOLE-SAW-6mm-100mm-Tile-Ceramic-Porcelain-Glass-Marble-Drill-Bit-Cutter/173011567051?var=471781674618&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D630b733c26454bc2ba4f1eff0a1e317e%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D162645123966&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598 Glass drill bit!
  3. Moths at Wangi

    There's a great pic on FB of a scow moth. Looks in pretty nice order - clearly sailed by a proud stalwart of the breed. Wonder how many laps behind he was at the end.
  4. DIY Tiller Extension

    Or this. About A$5 from Bunnings. A piece of electric conduit fits into the end which in turn fits into the universal joint. Drill holes - big holes at the end for grip then small holes to anchor the 2mm line. Yes, it's flexible which is great when it gets stuck somewhere. This is on my 14ft beachcat (Maricat 4.3).
  5. Seized s/s bolts

    OK I'll give that a go too (first).
  6. Managing epoxy cure times

    I've used a triaxial cloth that has three layers at different axles - it also has tie stuff that is compatible with epoxy.
  7. Seized s/s bolts

    Fair comments. I already have a drill - it's the one that has a hole in the middle. It's just big enough to go around the outside of the bolt. This means that I end up drilling resin not s/s and it goes through the alum backplate too. Was just looking for something that might have been easier/quicker. Thanks
  8. Seized s/s bolts

    Yeah, but I have a can of WD40 but not acetone and ATF! Currently broke and jobless so having to work around the tools I have to hand! Anyone want an SQL developer?
  9. Seized s/s bolts

    Thanks all. I see the benefit of easing oil (and WD40 which is easily available here seems to be nearly as good as PB Blaster) but the alum plate is on the other side of the transom but from the inside is covered in gelcoat/glass. I have a small blowtorch so I'll give that a go first - I can see that the heat is more directed which should allow it to travel down the bolt faster.
  10. Seized s/s bolts

    Small problem here. I have a umpty year old Maricat 4.3 (the one in my avatar). Problem that happens with these cats is that the rudder pintles are attached to the boat via 8mm threaded screws with standard screwdriver head. They are screwed into an alum plate inside the boat. When I removed them from a different cat a couple of years ago some of them lost their head rather than giving up their nice resting place in the alum. I ground off the rest of the head and used a ceramic drill (10mm diamond bit with a hole in the middle) which worked well but took a bit of time to do. Now, if I heat the screw (I have an electric heat gun) what will happen? Will the screw heat up and expand the alum at different rates such that the screw is released? Or do I just try to remove them and the ones that fail I drill out. I have hatches on the rear deck so do have access inside and would likely drill a hole right through and put a backing washer and nut (and a lot of Sikaflex). Reason to do this is that the transom is cracking which is another common problem - if I remove the pintles I can grind off the gelcoat and some of the glass (belt sander with 40 or 80 grit) and then recover with glass mat (I have some mat that is triple - three layers with different bias) and epoxy. It lets in quite a lot of water at the moment. Thanks chaps Jimbo
  11. Rudder reshape ??

    You could also chamfer the trailing edge. Give the flow no decision as to which side 'wins' means that it'll flow off the blade better. I suspect, although the picture doesn't show it that the TE isn't very good - suspect very blunt and rounded. Needs work - will help,
  12. Another what's the best dingy question

    +1 on the Weta but if you've not got enough coin then 14ft cats. When you run out of puff you can let everything go and just sit there for a while. Cost can be anything from A$600 up.
  13. you make the call

    So from a tactical point of view you should NEVER take the port layline to a mark given that boats are going to be rounding and getting in your way. You should always tack over to the stbd layline so you have a good few (hundred) meters on stbd before the rounding. I had a similar issue last weekend (small beach cats vs large beach cats). It's sometimes very hard to get out of the way, holding course is sometimes better plus make contact with the downhill boat so you agree what needs to be done.
  14. you make the call

    And 24 I think comes into play - it's the hunting rule and in fleet racing you're not allowed to go after a boat on another part of the course. Depends on the knowledge of the defence team.
  15. frank bethwaite: High performance sailing

    It would have been a Tasar I think because when he wrote the book he was well into them. Either that or the NS14 or the 29er. It went NS14 then Tasar then 29er.