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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About Soñadora

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  • Birthday 03/26/1965

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    The Corn Coast, MN
  1. There are basically 3 categories I'd use to describe consumer level 3D printers: < $500 (NOT including the printer in the OP or others like the Micro3D I mentioned). As derelicte pointed out these will require a lot of tinkering. Especially if you've never tinkered. These devices are totally DIY for the most part meaning you will need to be familiar with flashing controller boards (most likely RAMPS 1.4), ensuring correct tensions, leveling and zeroing, G-code knowledge, etc. None of which is 'hard', but if you aren't someone who likes to mess with stuff, then you can easily get frustrated. I just finished teaching a class building 3D printers. I chose to get my kits from QUBD (the TwoUp). These things are the absolute bottom of the bottom. But that's where I started and though I had to do a lot of messing to get half-way decent quality, it was enough to design and build a much better printer - I used the original printer to make a much more improved version. This is in spirit with the whole 'RepRap', open source movement. $500 to $1500 these are more turnkey, though they are not full on plug-and-play. At least not if you want a decent build volume, speed and the flexibility to print with a large variety of filaments. The Prusa kit mentioned above is based on the Mendel design that started it all by a guy named Josef Prusa. His first model was the Mendel and was made mostly from threaded rod. Anyone can make a Prusa i3. The plans are generally available and people have made them from pretty much any material you can find, including cardboard. You can build an i3 for under $100 without the components. You can find frame kits out of stamped metal all over ebay. The components are readily available but buyer beware. The stuff from China is about 30% crap. Meaning you have about a 30% chance of getting junk components: bad steppers, janked electronics, or parts that just don't fit. I had 8 students in my class. Of the 8 kits, we had 2 bad stepper motors and 3 crap RAMPS boards. Even though QUBD is located in the U.S. (Arkansas) all their components come from some hovel in China. They never sent replacement parts for us. I had to source them myself. No big deal (a RAMPS board without drivers is about $5) but it was a PITA. We had to extend the class an extra day and reflash the boards with the correct firmware. Over $1500 you start to get real turnkey, robust machines with excellent customer support. Look at Airwolf or Lulzbot. Damn good stuff for around $2500. These machines are made for serious use. These are all FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling). If you want fantastic quality for closer to $3000, you can get into SLA. But be prepared for some stringent handling requirements and expensive consumables. The machine I designed (A5-2Z from Proto-Plastik) has about 80% of the parts printed. So you have to have a printer to make it It's roughly similar to a Prusa i3 and would cost about the same as the kit mentioned above if you were to build it from scratch.
  2. Raz'r, that printer is really something. That bed design is pretty unique.
  3. wait, you send them your STL file and they send you back the print ready file? That's pretty cool. I'm guessing the file that comes back is the gcode file unless that printer uses some proprietary print language. If it is gcode, you can do the work yourself in a matter of seconds by using Repetier or Octoprint. It's a bit fiddly if you're not a 'computer person'. I knew I'd find something that would counter my 'sls is the only way to print metal'. Here's LMD: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKnlmfuMSgo. Metal Deposition printing. Crazy. as for CAD, I highly recommend checking out OnShape. It's 100% web based. Nothing to install.
  4. Beaman developed SLS (Selective Laser Sintering). SLS is one of 3 mainstream RPM techniques. The other two are SLA (Stereo Lithography) and FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling). I didn't realize SLS has been around as long as it has. Its primary use is in metal sintering (think of bronze sintered bushinges). Today it's the only way to make '3D printed' metal parts.Watch this cool video on the EOS machine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRE-PzI6uZA There was a company called ZCorp who made a printer that printed sintered plastic. Not sure if they're still around. By far, the most popular is FDM, developed right here in Minnesota by Stratasys. All the RepRap printers (like the one in the OP) use FDM. It's not perfect, but it is cheap and you can get some incredible quality from the high end stuff. SLA is on the fringe. Formlabs makes a small unit as does Autodesk (yeah, the Autocad people). There's a similar technology that uses UV rather than laser. There was a TED talk about this where the guy made it sound like it was some breakthrough technology (it's not). The printer is called Carbon3D. The problem with these printers is all the processing and chemicals needed to finish the thing. Quality is fantastic, but consumables are a hassle.
  5. This If you DO find a battery cover model, ? is it accurate ? (more importantly) ? is the Geometry "Clean & Tight" ? , or are there untrimmed arcs, lines that don't intersect, points in incorrect "Z", duplicate geo elements (line dawn twice), and on, and on, All those errors can choke the machine. Even with "real live" cadcam stuff, & real live machine tools, , reverse engineering a stupid battery cover is not a simple task. Measure; Measure some more; Measure TEN times, as you build the points, lines, & arcs into the cad model. Prototype, discover a bunch of awshits, Revi$e, (build another one) find more awshits, Revi$e, & revi$e, & revi$e again, until the awshits are down to "tolerable". (my opinion) machine speed not as important for student. , for a student, CAD training is important, There are number of good NURBS systems that can do 3D stuff well. , as well as learning the "Language" that Manufacturing speaks (ASME Y14.5M) Even if designed in CAD, there will still be times which the best way to build it is a Journeyman reading a 'Print at his workbench Yep. CAD model accuracy is important. But for a battery cover as discussed here, if it's within a RCH, that's good enough. Considering how cheap consumer 3D printing is (a 1kg spool of good quality PLA costs about $25 and could probably print a couple hundred battery covers), the oh-shit moments are not an issue. It's just part of the process. Someone's who is decent with a digital caliper and is savvy with their design software could crank out a passable battery cover without a problem. Will it look like the one that came with the unit? Maybe not exactly. Will it cover and retain a battery? Yep. The days of lines that don't intersect, incorrect 'Z' points, duplicate elements, etc are pretty much gone. Unless the machine operator is stuck in the 1990s, the software for generating g-code has virtually eliminated those issues (I use Repetier with Slic3r). Companies like Protolabs have very sophisticated processes for vetting 3D models. For 3D printing, STL (SLA) is the format that is most common. A decent CAD program can output flawless STL. I've never had any issues with STL from Solidworks. Guy, kudos to your son. When you say 'design' what sort of design tools are he using?
  6. Cool little printer. There are a lot of these coming to market: This little guy is coming out just in time for Christmas for about $300. Every kid will want one to print Star Wars figures PLA (Polylactic Acid) gets soft around 150c (about 300f - very possible on the dash of a car). It's very durable and harder than, say ABS. Which means it won't flex as much as ABS. It also stands up better to UV and acetone. Because, you know, acetone is everywhere on the damn boat. That said, the material strength is less an issue of the material properties and more an issue of the construction technique. FDM prints in layers. These layers fuse (the 'F' part of FDM) with the layers below and above, but it's not the kind of 'fusing' you'd get with injection molded stuff. There is still a membrane of sorts between the layers. That's not to say the parts are not strong. You would be hard pressed to damage a 2" x 2" x 2" solid printed cube. It's more an issue where the part may be thin (around 5mm). In those areas, PLA or ABS doesn't really matter. It's best to design structural gussets into those areas where possible. You can also mitigate this somewhat by the way it's placed on the bed. But that, too, needs to be designed. You can't have any overhangs that would cause the printer to print in space. There are two things about 3D printing that no one talks about: How do you design parts? Sure, there are libraries of thousands (millions?) of parts out there. But doubtful there's a model of MoMP's battery cover. Someone would have to design it. That takes real skill and probably a handful of prints until you get it right. And for hardcore design work, Tinkercad won't cut it. You'll need something like SolidWorks ($$$) or OnShape ($0). This shit takes FOR EVER. Little parts might be ok. They can print pretty fast - about an hour. I don't know about you, but an hour is excruciating. That luggage tag may not take so long. I'm guessing it took you about 30 minutes with the highest quality setting? A good place to look for parts is Thingiverse.com. There are others like Youimagine.com.
  7. as a Finn by marriage, I have to clarify that Finns are not Scandinavian. They're Nordic. And one should never, ever google Finland Fashion. Google Finnish Fashion, that's different.
  8. Pilothouse/Deck Saloon is hard to do right. As a huge fan of the Deck Saloon (I like to watch), I've built up a short list of those I find appealing. My first encounter was on a Baba 40 PH. Still, in my book, the best looking ph/ds I've ever seen. It is so perfectly integrated and proportional with the entire design of the boat that it's hard to think it could get better (ok, the LM 46 Bob Designed is maybe a RCH better). This design just looks perfect. And no doubt, Bob has done his magic inside to make sure anyone seated has a wonderful view out those windows (personally, those windows could be a scoshe smaller - I'm sure once we see the rendering maybe they won't look so big). Bob is the master when it comes to the deck saloon. I also like Chuck Payne's Reindeer and some of the Humphrey's Oyster designs, but when it comes to making the structure an aesthetic integration into the whole boat, Bob's the best.
  9. This is S's Dodger. I made it all by myself! and it shows. This was iteration 3. It's based off the original dodger. Last year it was droopy and flimsy and just plain bad. I took it home and improved some of the seams. Now it's not droopy, but the crappy sewing job I did shows. Iteration 4 will be done this winter (hopefully) Nevermind the bimini, that's a test. It's going to be a bit different once I get done with it.
  10. In most of the BWCA lakes, sailboats are banned because they are considered "motorized" (the sails generate power, so even a pram dinghy is a power boat). I wish I was pulling that out of my ass. jeezus... that's pretty pathetic Though some areas of BWCA are motorized (ex. Saganaga). But stil...sheesh I've always liked the Montys. There was a 15 for sale on our street for $700. By the time I thought about checking it out it was gone.
  11. I love the concept of a 'micro cruiser', but I'd have to name it s/v Barfolicious or Vomitus Maximus to sail it offshore. It would clearly emphasize the fact that 'comfort' is very subjective. I've always thought it would be awesome to have a small sailboat in the BWCWA (Boundary Waters Canoe Wilderness Area)
  12. here's a 28 foot design I was kicking around...
  13. well see, now you have a problem. That boat is too good to use! here's what you do, get a fireplace with a really huge, gigantic mantle. And put this boat on top of it.
  14. You've done well with those recent posts. That should earn a Google Advanced Image search award. ...unless you actually spotted and photographed them? For some reason, boatdesigners.net and woodenboat.forum are gold mines for ulgy boats. So why is that? Is it like modern art? I am just not equipped to appreciate it? Is it right to look down my nose at other peoples effort? Even if it looks like the boats I drew daydreaming in kindergarten? Am I just out of touch with modern tastes and needs? Am I too unappreciative of other people can-do, make-the-best-of-what-you've-got-just-get-out-on-the-water spirit? with the exception of that Carver 'Boot', I can truly appreciate all the others. I especially like that vanboat thing. It must be a blast sitting in the driver seat in that thing.
  15. somebody's rendering crayons need to be taken away