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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About Soñadora

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  • Birthday 03/26/1965

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    The Corn Coast, MN

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  1. Easy sailboat ownership

    Sloop, there are a handful of ways "metal" parts can be "3D Printed" (note all the quotes) Metal sintering has been around for a very long time. Metal sintering with highly sophisticated software and mechanics is only recently coming onto the scene. It's muy expensivo and muy energy sucking-o. There's a printer out there that uses a metallic infused plastic. You printer your part then post-process it in an oven to bake the metal. Essentially it's the same thing as sintering - the plastic melts away and you're left with the metal sort of 'fused'. There's also metallic filaments that you can run through any FDM printer. These are very cool in that they exhibit metallic properties - they can conduct electricity and can be magnetic. They are not metal per se and are not any stronger than plastic. They have metallic powder infused into the plastic (most commonly PLA). You can actually polish some of these filaments and get a nice metallic sheen. In addition, there are more exotic filaments such as CF and Polycarbonate but they require heavy duty components and the ability for the printer to reach in excess of 300 C at the print head. The super high end FDM printers can print this stuff so well that it is as strong as injection molded parts and in some cases even stronger because you can control the direction that the plastic is laid down. Glad you guys enjoyed this. Some of you may remember the CA36 that WLYDO designed headed by Bob Perry. That's going to be my next boat model. The PH version. The latest model I have is the two-window version.
  2. Easy sailboat ownership

    Thanks lipschitz! Based on my experience with sailing on Lake Superior, I designed some features specific to that environment. Waves on Superior are often choppy. It's my understanding that a boat with soft bilges and a bit of rocker helps with that. In addition, that 'dodger cabin' can be enclosed with a screen to keep out those fucking biting black flies. I wanted the boat to have a lot of deck and cockpit space because Great Lakers tend to spend a lot of time outside their boat rather than inside. We like to maximize our exposure to any weather where the temps are over 40. Bob gave me a lot of feedback that helped with keel and rudder design. Our Baba 30 is a full keel and we love her, but I would sure like to have something a bit more "responsive" that would go to weather a little better. So many people who are fans of full keels get all squinky when they imagine running aground and snapping off the rudder and keels falling off and cats and dogs living together... Sure, that shit happens but we all need to admit that it's extremely rare relative to the amount of boats out there sailing. So, while it was really just an exercise (I did go so far as to get quotes to build it) there was a lot of thought put into features I like.
  3. Easy sailboat ownership

    Glad you guys like this boat. I designed it years ago. Maybe 10. Not sure. It was one of those things..tried it. Had fun with it. Moved on to something else. Every sailor should design a sailboat. It was a great experience and taught me a lot about hulls and how a boat 'works'. My latest obsession has been 3D printing. Somewhere on SA there's a thread about that. I'm too lazy to look for it. It started as a way to print a prototype part that I'd designed. I'm an engineering designer by trade/DNA. Somehow I ended up in IT (I know a lot of people who say that). But I still design every day and my 3D printing obsession has kept me fresh. I created my prototype but went way deep into 3D printing technology and developed my own line of 3D printers. FDM printers (as Kirwan mentioned) are low cost and easy to handle. No funky chemicals like SLA, no exotic technology like sintering. It's a great way for anyone with some 3D design experience to make stuff. And that's the biggest problem right now - most people don't know how to design 3D stuff. No matter how easy the software is, if people just don't have the aptitude for it, it ain't going to happen. I taught this stuff for years and there are just some people who are never going to get it. The company I started has a few goals: Accessible technology, education, and service. The coolest thing about my printers is that they are made from printers. All the parts are 3D printed. Need to scale up your manufacturing? Just print a few more printers. I'm still in the pre-startup stage - more like the ignition stage. You can read about it on my website: http://proto-plastik.com And I even made an introductory video
  4. Easy sailboat ownership

    Hi Sam. Yeah, been gone a while. My 3D printing obsession is in full swing now. Was so wrapped up in developing my product line that this is the first thing I’ve printed that wasn’t a printer part (except those fucking spinners). PLA is my plastique du jour. it’s fine for 95% of anything. But even with ABS, there wouldn’t be an issue for casting. No idea with SLA. I reckon those resin models would require some serious heat and may not even “flow” like PLA or ABS.
  5. Easy sailboat ownership

    Nah, they don't. While it's possible to print parts for boat use, as will mentioned, if you want a finish that looks perfect, you'll have to do a lot of post processing. Here's a great example: https://energy.gov/eere/amo/3d-printed-shelby-cobra That said, one of the things that may be a possibility would be to use the 3D part as a pattern for FRP or even more interesting, investment casting. We are experimenting with this method for aluminum. We'll be doing a pour this weekend. Should be interesting.
  6. Show your boat sailing thread

    Sailing on Lake Superior this summer with friends Bob and Ilona. Soñadora loves this kind of weather. She's a hippo in ballet shoes.
  7. Easy sailboat ownership

    not yet. At least, not entirely. It would take a lot of work to get a 3D model finished to look as nice as a beautifully carved wood half-hull. It's a fantastic tool for getting a look at a design, but aesthetically it has a way to go. You may be able to get there with some of the super high-end (>$50,000) 3D printers - SLA, Sintered, etc.
  8. Easy sailboat ownership

    This is a Great Lakes 40 from Grand Portage Marine.
  9. Easy sailboat ownership

    If you ever design your own but but lament about the fact that there's no way in hell you'd ever be able to build it, You can 3D print it and imagine a tiny version of yourself sailing it. Finally got my 3D printers tweaked enough to give me a passable example of this boat.
  10. 3D Printers...

    There are basically 3 categories I'd use to describe consumer level 3D printers: < $500 (NOT including the printer in the OP or others like the Micro3D I mentioned). As derelicte pointed out these will require a lot of tinkering. Especially if you've never tinkered. These devices are totally DIY for the most part meaning you will need to be familiar with flashing controller boards (most likely RAMPS 1.4), ensuring correct tensions, leveling and zeroing, G-code knowledge, etc. None of which is 'hard', but if you aren't someone who likes to mess with stuff, then you can easily get frustrated. I just finished teaching a class building 3D printers. I chose to get my kits from QUBD (the TwoUp). These things are the absolute bottom of the bottom. But that's where I started and though I had to do a lot of messing to get half-way decent quality, it was enough to design and build a much better printer - I used the original printer to make a much more improved version. This is in spirit with the whole 'RepRap', open source movement. $500 to $1500 these are more turnkey, though they are not full on plug-and-play. At least not if you want a decent build volume, speed and the flexibility to print with a large variety of filaments. The Prusa kit mentioned above is based on the Mendel design that started it all by a guy named Josef Prusa. His first model was the Mendel and was made mostly from threaded rod. Anyone can make a Prusa i3. The plans are generally available and people have made them from pretty much any material you can find, including cardboard. You can build an i3 for under $100 without the components. You can find frame kits out of stamped metal all over ebay. The components are readily available but buyer beware. The stuff from China is about 30% crap. Meaning you have about a 30% chance of getting junk components: bad steppers, janked electronics, or parts that just don't fit. I had 8 students in my class. Of the 8 kits, we had 2 bad stepper motors and 3 crap RAMPS boards. Even though QUBD is located in the U.S. (Arkansas) all their components come from some hovel in China. They never sent replacement parts for us. I had to source them myself. No big deal (a RAMPS board without drivers is about $5) but it was a PITA. We had to extend the class an extra day and reflash the boards with the correct firmware. Over $1500 you start to get real turnkey, robust machines with excellent customer support. Look at Airwolf or Lulzbot. Damn good stuff for around $2500. These machines are made for serious use. These are all FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling). If you want fantastic quality for closer to $3000, you can get into SLA. But be prepared for some stringent handling requirements and expensive consumables. The machine I designed (A5-2Z from Proto-Plastik) has about 80% of the parts printed. So you have to have a printer to make it It's roughly similar to a Prusa i3 and would cost about the same as the kit mentioned above if you were to build it from scratch.
  11. 3D Printers...

    Raz'r, that printer is really something. That bed design is pretty unique.
  12. 3D Printers...

    wait, you send them your STL file and they send you back the print ready file? That's pretty cool. I'm guessing the file that comes back is the gcode file unless that printer uses some proprietary print language. If it is gcode, you can do the work yourself in a matter of seconds by using Repetier or Octoprint. It's a bit fiddly if you're not a 'computer person'. I knew I'd find something that would counter my 'sls is the only way to print metal'. Here's LMD: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKnlmfuMSgo. Metal Deposition printing. Crazy. as for CAD, I highly recommend checking out OnShape. It's 100% web based. Nothing to install.
  13. 3D Printers...

    Beaman developed SLS (Selective Laser Sintering). SLS is one of 3 mainstream RPM techniques. The other two are SLA (Stereo Lithography) and FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling). I didn't realize SLS has been around as long as it has. Its primary use is in metal sintering (think of bronze sintered bushinges). Today it's the only way to make '3D printed' metal parts.Watch this cool video on the EOS machine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRE-PzI6uZA There was a company called ZCorp who made a printer that printed sintered plastic. Not sure if they're still around. By far, the most popular is FDM, developed right here in Minnesota by Stratasys. All the RepRap printers (like the one in the OP) use FDM. It's not perfect, but it is cheap and you can get some incredible quality from the high end stuff. SLA is on the fringe. Formlabs makes a small unit as does Autodesk (yeah, the Autocad people). There's a similar technology that uses UV rather than laser. There was a TED talk about this where the guy made it sound like it was some breakthrough technology (it's not). The printer is called Carbon3D. The problem with these printers is all the processing and chemicals needed to finish the thing. Quality is fantastic, but consumables are a hassle.
  14. 3D Printers...

    This If you DO find a battery cover model, ? is it accurate ? (more importantly) ? is the Geometry "Clean & Tight" ? , or are there untrimmed arcs, lines that don't intersect, points in incorrect "Z", duplicate geo elements (line dawn twice), and on, and on, All those errors can choke the machine. Even with "real live" cadcam stuff, & real live machine tools, , reverse engineering a stupid battery cover is not a simple task. Measure; Measure some more; Measure TEN times, as you build the points, lines, & arcs into the cad model. Prototype, discover a bunch of awshits, Revi$e, (build another one) find more awshits, Revi$e, & revi$e, & revi$e again, until the awshits are down to "tolerable". (my opinion) machine speed not as important for student. , for a student, CAD training is important, There are number of good NURBS systems that can do 3D stuff well. , as well as learning the "Language" that Manufacturing speaks (ASME Y14.5M) Even if designed in CAD, there will still be times which the best way to build it is a Journeyman reading a 'Print at his workbench Yep. CAD model accuracy is important. But for a battery cover as discussed here, if it's within a RCH, that's good enough. Considering how cheap consumer 3D printing is (a 1kg spool of good quality PLA costs about $25 and could probably print a couple hundred battery covers), the oh-shit moments are not an issue. It's just part of the process. Someone's who is decent with a digital caliper and is savvy with their design software could crank out a passable battery cover without a problem. Will it look like the one that came with the unit? Maybe not exactly. Will it cover and retain a battery? Yep. The days of lines that don't intersect, incorrect 'Z' points, duplicate elements, etc are pretty much gone. Unless the machine operator is stuck in the 1990s, the software for generating g-code has virtually eliminated those issues (I use Repetier with Slic3r). Companies like Protolabs have very sophisticated processes for vetting 3D models. For 3D printing, STL (SLA) is the format that is most common. A decent CAD program can output flawless STL. I've never had any issues with STL from Solidworks. Guy, kudos to your son. When you say 'design' what sort of design tools are he using?
  15. 3D Printers...

    Cool little printer. There are a lot of these coming to market: This little guy is coming out just in time for Christmas for about $300. Every kid will want one to print Star Wars figures PLA (Polylactic Acid) gets soft around 150c (about 300f - very possible on the dash of a car). It's very durable and harder than, say ABS. Which means it won't flex as much as ABS. It also stands up better to UV and acetone. Because, you know, acetone is everywhere on the damn boat. That said, the material strength is less an issue of the material properties and more an issue of the construction technique. FDM prints in layers. These layers fuse (the 'F' part of FDM) with the layers below and above, but it's not the kind of 'fusing' you'd get with injection molded stuff. There is still a membrane of sorts between the layers. That's not to say the parts are not strong. You would be hard pressed to damage a 2" x 2" x 2" solid printed cube. It's more an issue where the part may be thin (around 5mm). In those areas, PLA or ABS doesn't really matter. It's best to design structural gussets into those areas where possible. You can also mitigate this somewhat by the way it's placed on the bed. But that, too, needs to be designed. You can't have any overhangs that would cause the printer to print in space. There are two things about 3D printing that no one talks about: How do you design parts? Sure, there are libraries of thousands (millions?) of parts out there. But doubtful there's a model of MoMP's battery cover. Someone would have to design it. That takes real skill and probably a handful of prints until you get it right. And for hardcore design work, Tinkercad won't cut it. You'll need something like SolidWorks ($$$) or OnShape ($0). This shit takes FOR EVER. Little parts might be ok. They can print pretty fast - about an hour. I don't know about you, but an hour is excruciating. That luggage tag may not take so long. I'm guessing it took you about 30 minutes with the highest quality setting? A good place to look for parts is Thingiverse.com. There are others like Youimagine.com.