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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

kurio99

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About kurio99

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    Anarchist

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  • Location
    Toronto, Ontario
  • Interests
    Dinghy Sailing
  1. Arm Fatigue

    Sailing an RS700. Generally recommended to not cleat on the upwind which is understandable given that responsiveness is key to these types of boats, especially in shifty conditions. How do you deal with arm fatigue and hand cramping in windy conditions? I find myself sitting in for some legs to recover. Any other ways to deal with this?
  2. Sweet spot for wind

    Was out yesterday in the RS700. Forecast was 8 knots. Reality was 16 knots plus gusts. Cunningham on full. Wind picked up on the water, so no opportunity to use the reefing loop. Typically, don't cleat on the upwind to better balance the boat, but man, my hands were near cramped up after a short time. No opportunity to sit in and rebuild strength. Can't imagine enjoying 20 knots at my novice level.
  3. RS700 Newbie Video

    I find it a bear to recover from a turtle position, maybe as I'm lighter. Not sure how easy it would be for a smaller person. Fyi, you may already know this, but you can use your spinnaker sheets to lean out for more leverage. The knot that joins the two ends, stops at the block, giving you some secured line to grab.
  4. Very Windy Day in Santa Barbara

    Very nice. What are you sailing? Doesn't it have auto bailers? How many knots was the breeze?
  5. Sweet spot for wind

    What is your most favourite wind speed? Not too light. Not too wild.
  6. Countdown to an RS700

    DTA. FYI, in most browsers, <ctrl> + <+> will zoom. Nonetheless, I scaled them up by 8x. Yes, I sketched in the approximate line positions. First image is relaxed, when the kite is fully flying. Second image is tensioned, when the kite is in the sock.
  7. Countdown to an RS700

    I just remembered the real reason for needing the purple line and not running the shock cord direct. Shock cords twist when stretched. It would spin the halyard floating block, twisting your halyard into a knot, stopping everything in its tracks. Learned this through painful experience.
  8. Countdown to an RS700

    DTA, Hopefully, I'm not stating the obvious here. Green Line At hoist or after douse, this line should be fully tensioned through the cleat that connects to the douse handle. The act of dropping, creates this tension. At the end of each day, I release this tension to preserve the shock cord. At the start of sail, pull it tight so it's ready for your first hoist. The floating block on the end of the line should be backed up right to the fixed block on the line. This line puts the stretch into the shock cord that draws the slack from your handles, both on the hoist and the drop. Once hoist is complete, uncleat this line to put slack into the retrieval line so that it does not spoil your kite's shape. Blue Line This is your continuous halyard and retrieval line. When the kite is hoisted and the system is completely relaxed, you should just have enough retrieval line to reach the retrieval patches on the kite without affecting its shape when flying. You don't want too much spare line here or it will slow your drop. Red Line This is your shock cord. It needs lots of distance for maximum stretch - I tie off near the bottom of the mast. When fully stretched by the green line, it should be able to draw up your slack from the handles. When the green line is released, there should be minimal tension in the shock cord - if there is stretch, it creates friction in the halyard as you attempt your drop, such that the kite head does not drop smoothly. Purple Line The other end of the shock cord is tied to the purple line that feeds through the floating block on the end of the green line. The end of the purple line holds the floating block that tensions the blue line. In theory, you could skip the purple line and run the shock cord straight to the floating halyard block, but I find that shock cords don't run smoothly through blocks and they wear out too quickly. Set the length of the purple line so that when fully tensioned, the shock cord knot does not enter the floating green line block. When fully relaxed, the floating purple line block should stop just before the floating green line block.
  9. Countdown to an RS700

    No time tonight, but tomorrow night, I can sketch out the 'black magic'.
  10. Countdown to an RS700

    DTA, if I understand you correctly, it sounds like you may not have enough tension in the retrieval line shock cord or it's not strung right. It does take some fiddling to get the right amount of stretch to pick up the slack from the handles. When I have a moment, I can try to sketch it out.
  11. Non-Skid

    My preference would lean towards traction pads, rather than coatings. Having some cushioning may be handy as I'll be hopping around the boat when coming off the wire. Already starting to see stress cracks in the gelcoat - a pad may help slow that damage.
  12. Non-Skid

    What's everyone using for non-skid? Two of the leading brands appear to be Seadek and Hydro-Turf in North America. Comes in 3 mm and 5 mm, which thickness would work well on a RS700?
  13. RS700 Newbie Video

    Interesting. Watched Pollington in slow mo - he hops. Rear foot step to gunnel, then a hop straddling the cockpit, then another hop to far gunnel and cockpit, before backstepping his new rear foot to gunnel. At two points in his transition, both feet are off the boat. It was not a smooth flow of steps as I had been expecting.
  14. RS700 Newbie Video

    I'm using an Allen keyball trap rather than hooks. Haven't found a position or hip move that will allow them to drop out. Even tightened my shock cords without success. (Still prefer the ball system for reasons covered in other threads.) Been watching the Richard Stenhouse and Higher-Faster videos, but they stand for hook-on. I don't yet have their balance, so have been resorting to using a knee for more stability. Hoping to build up speed of hook-on to avoid knee or sitting. Work in progress. I am truly amazed by their ability to bend their knees, come in, stand up in perfect balance on the bar while unhooking, and then stepping into the boat while keeping everything flat throughout the turn. I can't do that and that's why everything goes to piss, before I set a single foot inside the boat.
  15. RS700 Newbie Video

    Gads, my wire to wire is brutally bad. Any drills to fix this? Having troubles shifting my weight when coming in off the bar. Tried to do the shift while standing on the bar or the gunnel, but pretty much failed every time. At the moment, I do the unhook while inside the boat but that slows down the tack too much, resulting in the irons half the time.