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Abbreviated rules 07/28/2017
Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules. Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo. Warning and or timeout for a first offense. PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members. See above for penalties. Caveat: if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods. We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post. We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking. There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious. There is no standard, we will know it when we see it. If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining. Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious. Deal with it. Welcome to anarchy. If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to. They will be explained to you soon enough.
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JeffD
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Agree with Revelry on the 3.7. For a 40 year old design its still a great boat and the rigs have developed with the times. Having raced them many years ago I would say its not a good candidate to stretch at all. You would gain a very small amount of speed and lose its character. The 3.7 is the shape it is because its only got a 12' water line. From 12' to 14' is a big step design wise. Look at the difference between fast 12' skiffs and cherubs vs. Inter 14's. The fastest lines are quite different between the two and that's not just because of rules. If you read the Bethwaite books you will get an insight of the design path to the 29er and 49er. The Musto and RS700 follow the same design cues. They are based on three mode sailing and can be sailed with reduced wetted area in light winds by bow down trimming and be trimmed up in a breeze for planning. The 3.7 and contender are more traditional in this sense and do not reward large variations in trim.
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Have done that but with a retractable sprit. I can't find any pics I've taken of the inner workings. Here are a couple of the end result if that helps at all. I will try to sketch up how its rigged in the weekend. It is slightly different to High Flow's sketch and less complicated but not sure which would be better. I don't think it would be difficult to adapt it for the fixed pole. Are you using the jib or just main, and trapeze? Also where do you plan to install the sock? Stopping the kite wrapping around the forestay requires some care and a good low resistance chute. Also I found that a ratchet block at the base of the halyard reduced prawning by adding some resistance to the kite coming down in the drop. It means you have more time to drag it back in the bag before it blows into the water. Also think about how your tiller is placed in the boat. At some stage during the drop you will need to steer with your foot as it takes 2 hands to get it back in the tube if you don't want it getting away on you. With my arrangement at least, there is a lot going on when you are trying to drop it in 20 knots and a chop.
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Good observations here. Also with HM Carbon, the mast diameters to achieve the same stiffness have reduced by 15-20% over alloy and there is typically less weight and bulkiness of standing rigging. This has to close the gap significantly on any theoretical benefits of wing sections.
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Great to see your 700 on the water at last Dion. +1 on getting the right shoes for trapping, sometimes you are almost gripping the gunwale with your toes to hang on. If you don't have soft grippy soles you are going to be skating all over the place. Once you have enough breeze to get on the wire you need to pull in the main as you are stepping out to balance the extra power with your weight (It happens naturally if you are holding it). Once you are on the wire learn to steer the boat under the rig. Upwind you can bear away a few degrees to hold you on the wire in lulls and pinch it up in the gusts for an initial response, once you get the feeling of balance on the wire you can combine that with trimming the sheet as you go. Good luck today
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When you can nail wire to wire gybes and tacks on the Vago, and complete races in 15-20 without capsizing, you are ready to start thinking about the 700. Both the RS and Musto are pretty much equivalent to helming a 49er or 18' skiff. Before you take on kites and racks, your trapeze skills need to be second nature, like putting on pants... The wire needs to just happen without thinking about it, all of your attention will need to be on boat handling and balance. Like any skiff they need to be sailed full speed all the time, if you pause you swim. In light winds and flat water you will probably be ok, just lots of capsizes. I haven't sailed either but have sailed enough trapeze boats with and without kites to say that anything with a rig that size is going to be harder to right than your Aero. Trap capsizes nearly always leave you in a position where the boat is harder to right. Capsizes with a kite up on a single hander are going to have you in the water for much longer every time and use a lot of your energy (This I can say with experience). I hope you realise your dream, maybe just allow yourself some more time to get there.
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For single handing on my NS14 I rigged a simple bridle as described above and it performed about as poorly as Jim C describes. To improve it I re-threaded the jib sheets and used both. To tack I would release the jib sheet just as I headed up, once on the new tack the jib would settle in a half trimmed state until I was sorted and could use the new sheet to trim it in. To bear away I would loosen the line from the bridle to the clew then let out the jib sheet. Not as good as a properly rigged track but it was enough to allow a reasonably executed tack or gybe in most conditions Eventually put a mono rig on it with trap and no more jib to worry about
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That's a 10! Very advanced mining skills, nearly at the point of no return and that main is still perfectly trimmed with all the woollies still flying.
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This is an example of a bulkhead to support the inboard end, for exactly the same reasons Jim suggests above. I wanted to be able to retract the pole under the deck, but DRCs method sounds easier to do. This is not a Laser 2 but gives an example of geometry that could work.
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Do you have the Flying Fifteen in Aus? A nice size couples boat and can be trailered without needing a crane.
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Hi Chris, Its great watching you guys trying innovative new construction methods. Without giving away all your secrets, would you elaborate a little on the trends for rocker and volume distribution?
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Was there not a cleaner location an hours drive away from the city? Its BS that ISAF and IOC can't do anything about it...
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Am I the only person who had to look up what these slow 2 person ICs might be? Dude, all you have to know is bathtub and 3ksb and you have the IC understood You may need to elaborate, some here might think an IC is an International Canoe which might exceed your 3ktsb by a small margin.
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Dave's Machete looks a good option to me, but also check out dc designs thread halfway down the list. 34 pages of discussion on IC design dating back to start of the current rules, lots of ideas to inspire one to head into the shed and pick up tools. http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=65915&&page=34 If you really want to go it alone from scratch, check out Phil S's hollow log design or the tortured ply build by Steve Clark from about page 4. The Machete is several years on in development though, so probably quickest to the water and on the water. Happy building
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So true about epoxy cure times, although watching epoxy cure is slightly more exciting than watching grass grow The thing about most custom builds is that a lot of time goes into working out how to do the next step, making patterns for parts and so on. One hopes that having pre-cut parts and a set of drawings would go a long way to reducing the thinking time.
