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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About Bad_Moose

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  1. Building my first boats

    As others have said, get some more sailing experience before you go further. It'll make life much easier in the long run.
  2. Peel questions

    Have the guy attached to the bail of the sheet, and then use the peeling shackles to link the tack of the old kite to the bail of the sheet also. Then spike the sheet so the load is held by the peeling shackles, and clip the tack of the new kite back onto the sheet. The first idea doesn't really work because the only opportunity to peel is between your set and your first gybe, if you have to do it after this window it sounds like you're going to have to be opening the jaws of the pole while you're out there to get the lazy sheet in, which is unnecessary and asking for trouble. Second idea; I don't really like the idea of clipping stuff directly to the pole, sheets have nice big bails for a reason. Your owner has the right idea, though I'd rather clip the guy to the sheet because of habit and also because as previously mentioned, sheets tend to have big bails designed to do this.
  3. Companionway spinnaker hoists

    The process of unclipping the sheets, guys and halyard, repacking the kite into it's launch bag and then bringing it back on deck where everything gets clipped back on (potentially having had to spin the gear too) is exactly what I want to avoid here. My preference would be to hoist and drop out of the bow hatch, and always take the kite down on the side it next goes up on, but as I said, using the bow hatch is unfortunately not going to happen. Neuronz, I think your idea is probably most likely to work; I'll have a go with it and see if it's feasible to get the kite into the launch bag cleanly. Other than that, sounds like hoisting directly from the companionway is unlikely to work.
  4. Companionway spinnaker hoists

    Yeah this was part of my concern, it's not an ideal setup is it. I don't know which is the lesser of the two evils really.
  5. Companionway spinnaker hoists

    Yeah unfortunately it is a case of the forward cabin getting wet; it's not my call to make.
  6. Companionway spinnaker hoists

    What do you think the maximum size of boat that you could get away with setting the kite from the companionway is? This is the situation... 40ft cruiser racer with 1 fairly big spinnaker made the heaviest, most bomb proof material imaginable that weighs a fucking tonne. Hoisting from the bow hatch isn't an option, so hoists are usually done from a bag on the bow and drops are done into the companionway; the whole lot gets unclipped, repacked and then clipped back on. This is obviously a really slow way of doing things, and it gets exhausting fast on short courses because the kite weighs so much. It's also a real challenge to manhandle the repacked spinnaker out of the companionway and onto the foredeck once it gets windy or rough. I've been toying with the idea of hanging the launch bag inside the companionway and just dropping and hoisting from there, removing the need to repack the thing. The only snag I can see is getting the tack and the head round the shrouds as the spinnaker goes up, but having somebody feeding it all out might help avoid this? Anyone tried it? EDIT: symmetric spinnaker
  7. It's just a result of poor classification of the boats in the sportsboat class and the organisers not having a good understanding of each boat's capabilities (which is fair enough, because there are a lot of boats competing). A few years ago the J80s had their race called off due to 'adverse' weather conditions, despite plenty of other far less safe, far less stable classes being allowed to continue. The class kicked up a fuss and as a result, the J80s have been given a bit more freedom since. They're very safe boats, I've been through some really nasty conditions in them and they're always reassuringly solid. It just requires the people involved in the classes that were cancelled to put forward a convincing case to the organisers, and hopefully that will lead to more realistic classifications.
  8. Butt Finally Over Gunwale in RS Aero 9

    Looking much better! I think your next step is to keep hiking the whole time in these conditions and steer the boat to keep it flat. Bear off in the gusts to stay flat, and when you come into a lull, put the bow up a little bit to bring the power back on and keep hiking. You can also use it this to avoid waves; you can just lift your torso a little and bring the bow up to induce some leeward heel until the wave has passed under your body, and then back into the usual mode afterwards. It's pretty exhausting to keep flinging yourself in and out of the boat, and you'll have much more fun for less energy if you sail like this. Looks like you're making really good progress.
  9. Tetrahedron marks

    You can get a sealant for inflatable boats that's designed to be squirted through the valve. Once it's in, you just spin the inflatable (or in this case, the mark) round and round until you've covered the whole of the inside in the sealant. Then you just leave it to dry, and you're air tight again. I've never used it for a mark in the way you've described, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
  10. J/35 - How to run aground and what to do about it.

    Get it lifted out and inspected asap, that was a fairly big hit and you haven't really got any idea if you've done serious damage or not; the joint between the keel and the sump might be damaged, stringers might have been damaged, the joint between the sump and the hull might be damaged, there are plenty of things that could be wrong that you're not going to be able to see without looking at the hull or taking the floorboards up. The keel might fall off in the future because you've compromised the structure (unlikely, but is it worth the risk?), or you might end up with an unnecessarily massive repair bill because water has been allowed to get into places that it shouldn't be. I'd imagine that if you phone your insurance company and tell then you sailed into a rock so large that it stopped the boat dead and then fired it backwards, they'll probably be pretty keen on you getting it checked as a matter of urgency. Unsure on the repair price, highly dependent on what's been damaged. It might be a little bill for some cosmetic damage to the keel, or a very big bill for lots of structural damage. Fingers crossed it's the former!
  11. Rules question

    Thanks guys, that's useful. None of what's been mentioned is a surprise to me so I'm happy that I knew what was going. Ideally I'd have avoided the other boat completely as you guys had suggested, but unfortunately it just wasn't doable by the time the situation had unfolded. Thanks
  12. Rules question

    I'm wondering if anyone can settle a bit of a rules dispute. In this particular race, it was blowing around 18 knots with occasional gusts (according to weather stations nearby) of up to 24kts. We ended up in a situation where we had set our kite after the windward mark, and had rapidly caught up with a boat ahead of us that had been unable to do so. The other boat had sailed higher that us out of the mark, so they'd ended up further to windward by this stage. We were clear astern and a boat length or so to leeward at this stage. We judged that were unable to sail above them without broaching, so we chose to sail under them instead. They were still messing around trying to set their kite so were sailing low and slow, to the extent that we had to call them up to allow us to sail fast enough to pass. They refused to go up at all, so we ended up in a situation where both boats were very unstable and far too close together. We bore away to get clear, they headed up and ended up broaching. I think that this happened because the individual helming the other boat wanted to be difficult, rather than there being any actual need for them to be sailing that course. There was no protest or anything of that nature, but I'm just curious to know who was in the right. My understanding is that we were the leeward boat, overlapped within 2 boatlengths of the windward boat and were being forced to sail significantly lower than our proper course. In an ideal world we'd have sailed over the top of the other boat, but we didn't feel that this was possible without risking contact.
  13. IRC yacht 25/30 foot

    Too expensive I am afraid. Has anyone raced the Elan 210? I've raced an Elan 210 and they're awful boats, they look quick, exciting and racy but in reality they're slow, quite hard work and pretty uncompetitive. For cruising and pottering around they're good, but if you've got any interest in racing then I'd steer well clear. They just don't go. I could go into detail about the issues with the boat but I'm afraid it's a fairly long list.
  14. A wx drop on a hard reach is going to really piss off your crew. I've done a fair few windward drops on reaches (from the pointy end), it's obviously not easy but it's perfectly possible. As I said, it all depends on how confident you are in your own ability and the rest of your crew's.
  15. A wx drop on a hard reach is going to really piss off your crew. Many of the times we've attempted the windward asym douse, the clew gets hung up on the forestay and chaos ensues. Sort of like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhBzWxPGFhY&feature=youtu.be and fast forward to 8:16 for (a wildly embarrassing) example. But I don't know that guy driving that pretty boat... An additional and related question is: If you don't get the 'chute down by the leeward mark, do you round up and start going upwind while you continue to get the chute down, or do you keep sailing downwind to help get the 'chute down??... thoughts? It looks like the jib is hanked on on that boat (instead of a foil)? That tends to make it harder to get it round the forestay. To be honest though, it looked like that drop went wrong because of crew work rather than it actually being a difficult situation. I reckon more practice would have made it work. My experience is that if the driver goes round the mark as usual with the kite not pretty much down, whatever kite has made it into the boat will very quickly want to launch itself skyward again, which is no fun for anybody involved and is also a bit slow.