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      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About gjbike

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  1. Great results for the Farr 25. What were the sailing conditions?
  2. Basic rig tune for a multiple spreader rig is described nicely by Ivar Dedekam in his book Illustrated Sail and Rig Tuning by Wiley Nautical. Center the mast - I use a metal tape measure from the mast top to the shroud bottoms with the shrouds hand tight only. Then set the rake using the forestay turnbuckle and upper shrouds so you have about 2 degrees rake. Then start tensioning the uppers to about 20 to 25 on Loos Pro guage . The exact amount depends on wind range of course but this is a good mid range. The lowers get about 70% of the uppers but that may be more if needed to make sure mast stays straight under load. Check the forestay sag with backstay on/off. Should be able to distort about 6 to 8 inches when off and be hard to move with backstay full on. Then the tedious task of fine adjustment of lowers and diagonals. Basically you want to try and bend the mast by pulling in on the uppers and checking that the mast is staying in column and not falling off or making "S" turns at the shrouds. This whole process takes 2 to 3 hours. Then go sailing in 10 to 12 kt winds and see if the mast stays straight when loaded. In higher winds the mast may fall off to lee a little but make sure it is not making an "S" anywhere. I didn't mention pre-bend- that has to be done to match your sail's cut so varies.
  3. Funny you should ask.....been eyeing those!!!
  4. I have been asking behind the scene about just this. The Fareast Australia guys are super helpful. The Swedes and great. Now that Fareast USA has some more racing experience input from them would be great. Below is from some emails I have: - Forestay max length to minimize the lee-helm. I would like to (and probably will) go further adding a toggle or a longer stud to get weather helm. - We have quite flat sails as the boat is fully powered up in 8-10kn of breeze. Whom have you got sails from? - Mast pre-bent: has to be adjusted to the luff curve of your main, it's good to re-adjust for different winds, more pre-bent in the higher winds to flatten the main. Spend some time on tuning this, measure and write down rig tension, unfortunately you have to go up to do the D2's. - In the lights, traveller all the way up and some twist in the main, halyard tensions off, some outhaul off, no cunningham (basic stuff you probably already do) - Backstay: once you can reach target upwind speed you start bringing it on, in probably 8-10 kn of breeze when you easily can sail target speed the backstay will be full on to get max forestay tension so you can point high. Work the traveller to dump power if needed. Steer quite aggressive to keep the balance / pressure and therefore the speed constant. - Tacking: especially in winds up to 12kn TWS keep the jib rounded till you almost reach your target speed before trimming it off. Always first speed then height. Open the leach of the main by easing the fine tune when accelerating (3 inches) - The guy steering should only be doing that, info he needs is wind gusts, waves when to tack and gibe and other boats that are coming in. - Mainsail trimmer is steering the boat for 50% when going upwind and is responsible for the heel / pressure on the boat, swap in a training session to get the feel of each others job. Hope this adds something to you knowledge or helps you to faster and higher. Please let me know if you have questions or where it's not clear. and these answers to my questions: able to maintain close hauled speed at 6.5 to 6.8 kts. I can do the 6.5 but find it hard to do 6.8's myself, the guy steering my boat is bringing some experience in! Very important first speed than height. Ease the main 4 inches on the fine tune in the tack, accelerate after a tack by letting the backstay off (you have to anyway to get the flicker over the top of the main) the leach of the main has to open up to be able to accelerate. Don't trim the jib off before you almost reached target speed. (in light and medium air the trimmer comes up and goes down again to trim the jib off) Once nearly on speed trim the jib off and pull the backstay on, this will bring you a few degrees up. We sail pure on the jib and its tell tales, further it's the leach of the main that will give you height and the backstay full on to get forestay tension (if you can comfortably reach target speeds so from 8-10kn wind) If you often fall of the speed due to waves or if you can't keep her in the groove ease the jib 15mm on the sheet to get more power but it will cost a little bit of height. Work the traveller to keep the boat balanced / powered. The fine tune is your throttle, ease it 2-3 inches to speed up if necessary. we don't use the vang at all only downwind. I assume your driver is sailing to the tell-tails and looking to keep the leeward ones flowing straight back and the weather ones oscillating up part of the time. I also assume you are putting on halyard tension to give the luff some roundness More tension makes the jib flatter, less fuller. In light to medium I like to just start to see very small wrinkles to make sure there isn't too much tension on the jib halyard and keep the draft about at 40% of chord. If you use a windex are you staying even with or inside the 45 deg marks? Not sure, either on the tab or a tiny bit inside in higher winds. Main thing is to sail on pressure /jib tell tales with a little bit of heel My experience is that the boat is fastest with the windex arrow about half a width outside the 45 degree marks. Also how does the crew on traveler maintain constant speed- the mainsail trimmer is responsible for the heel of the boat (=pressure) if the boat starts to heel to much you will lose speed so traveller down before that happens, if the boat comes up the traveller goes up to for more pressure / steer down a degree or two if needed do you vang sheet with the vang on and ease in the puffs and do you shoot for constant heel ? One last thing with respect to downwind- do you try to sail deep , hot or in between? you always try to sail as deep as possible but you have to heat it up to get speed, once the speed increases the apparent wind angle goes forward and you can come down, if you sail to deep you will lose pressure, try to sail on the point where the pressure kicks in, you'll feel it. It's hard in the lights and tempting to heat it up but it's all about VMG, if you can read out VMG it becomes easier to find the right angles.
  5. If the force is diminished by dissapating it over time wouldn't the foam act the same whether it's on my head or on the boom?
  6. Engine cover is doable . I have seriously thought about having a custom sleeve made that would hold 3/4 inch high density foam snug against the boom sides. Last year I took a serious whack from the boom that knocked me to the deck. Had to retire from a race. I thought a boom pad might be better than having everyone wear helmets. Would be similar to the lifeline pads. Very lightweight. Giving it serious consideration.
  7. I use the 3M spray UV block stuff. Works pretty good but yes will fade in time. 😱😂
  8. A little analysis of the results of the 9 boats racing in ORC C. A GP 26 won overall, a Fareast 28 took second. There were two FE 28's and 3 GP26's. There was a Melges 30, a Melges 32, a Henderson 30 and an SR33. Looking at individual races it is interesting that individual teams had very inconsistent results. No one boat dominated but the Rattle n Rum team clearly brought their "A" game. It is interesting to me to look at two stats from the performance report. I have listed the boats in order of overall finish and list their average speed ( in seconds per nautical mile) followed by their best speed in any one race. The average speed for all the boats was 602 with a std deviation of 101. The best speed average was 555 with a std deviation of 37. as expected the Melges 32 has the fastest individual best speed at 495 but also as lost to smaller boats on handicap. MY take on the numbers is that all of these boats are within 10% of the mean for best speed so crew performance was the biggest determinant of overall success. disclaimer- I crunched the numbers using an online calculator- may have slight errors- I didn't recheck every single entry. Perhaps someone can compare handicaps to performance and see how well ORC did in handicapping the fleet boat average speed best speed GP 26 594 531 FE 28R 617 541 Henderson 30 667 558 Melges 30 583 516 Melges 32 564 495 GP 26 629 589 GP 26 774 575 FE28R 864 592 SR 33 751 602
  9. Work the sheets- a day of racing constantly pulling main sheets, traveler lines, spinnaker lines is more workout than a couple of hours at the gym. Professional crew do workout. Need a lot of upper body/core strength. You might read this: https://www.outsideonline.com/1994626/how-train-sailor
  10. Boat speed does not translate into elapsed time very well. My closest competitor where I sail is a very well sailed Olson 30. On any given day sometimes I sail faster and sometimes he sails faster, but on most days he sails better. Under a kite in big wind I can leave him in the dust but in real racing it's the quality of the tacks and how well you call the wind shifts that separate us most. Last week we were both closing in on the windward mark when he noticed a big header coming and tacked right in front of it- I was late and couldn't tack in time and ended up 5 or 6 boat lengths behind on just that one mistake. He carries both sym and asym kites and on one Olympic round in big wind he was able to take advantage of being able to head straight at the line for the finish under his sym kite. The polars only tell you what the boat is capable of doing under ideal conditions and optimum trim. The Melges 32 has a waterline of 29 ft 10in and a SA/D of 45 (without crew). The FE28R has a waterline of 27ft 8 in and a SA/D of 38. If both boats are sailed to their polars the Melges should be about 7% faster. On a 45 minute race that would be 3.25 min ahead. The Melges PHRF is 24 the FE28R 54. If both boats were sailed perfectly the Melges would get line honors every time and the FE28R would win on PHRF every time.
  11. Macropoxy by Sherwin Williams. Can be tinted any color you want. 2 part epoxy suitable for underwater use. Spray or roll on with foam roller. Only comes in gallon size
  12. For earlier question re how it does vs a Melges 32- some race results https://www.facebook.com/fareastyachtsaustralia/photos/rpp.321007464694035/1099643800163727/?type=3&theater
  13. The sailing is on Canyon Lake which is 60 miles northeast of San Antonio. Reasonably active racing scene. People come from Austin and Corpus Christi routinely. Year round racing. Nice lake with good wind most days.
  14. I have that set up on one of my boats. It works well except like many others it has a continuous furling line so it can spin on its own if jib unfurls partially in high wind. When that happens the sail can unfurl completely and you can't furl it back without unloading it. Since it is usually furled when doing downwind it means going DDW with a collapsed kite for a bit. The furl is all or nothing- no partial furling also. It does have the advantage of less drag and being able to change sails easily. You also have more control over sail shape.