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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

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gjbike

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About gjbike

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  • Location
    Texas
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    golf, photography,sailing
  1. Inhaulers for Fareast 28R - PART DEUX

    Looks good. Actually , perhaps it looks more complex than it really is. Just a simple purchase system that allows both forward -aft and in/out adjustment. Relatively cheap upgrade. Lucked out that the Antal padeye holes matched the holes I made for previous set-up. The proof of the pudding is in the eating so we will see in a couple of weeks during the next race.
  2. Inhaulers for Fareast 28R - PART DEUX

    Last I heard there were 10 in the US. There are 4 I believe already going to Charleston this Spring. I would love to make it five but I would need to figure a way to get free from work. I thought the whole purpose of forums like this was precisely to share ideas and experiences so all can benefit.
  3. Inhaulers for Fareast 28R - PART DEUX

    I understand the blocks are optional and the set up would work using the low friction padeyes alone but I added the blocks to assure the force would always be in the direction for which the padeyes were designed and that rotational forces would be minimized. It seemed to work with minimal resistance as is but I haven't had a chance to use it under heavy load yet.
  4. OK, have reengineered the inhauler setup. Using solid aluminum low friction Antal padeyes and 29mm T2 Harken air blocks and an Antal solid ring. Covered dyneema line ( I still have to strip the cover over the front and put a put a Brummel splice to luggage tag the end to the block). This gives me some purchase and I think is beefy enough to withstand the forces from the jib shdeet.
  5. Seascape 18 outboard

    I've owned all those engines- here is my 2 cents The Honda is nice light engine- I had two things I didn't like- very loud compared to others and didn't like the centrifugal clutch. When you start the engine cold it has to rev to warm up and that means the clutch will engage. I had to always start with the boat tied to the dock until I could idle the motor The Tohatsu 3.5 - good engine- no complaints- quite a bit bigger and heavier with more power- comes in handy if you have to motor a ways against a 20 kt wind. The Torqueedo- loved that I could easily take it off after sails were up and store below. Not enough power to motor against big wind and once you are out of juice no easy way to refill. But to get in/out of marina in normal wind worked really well. My battery has died now after 5 years and will cost me $1000 to replace Yamaha- IMHO the best in quality of these. I have the 2.5 and the 4 HP models. Great, reliable, strong motors. A little heavier than the others but due to beefier construction. The latest 2.5 model allows you to lay the motor down on either side without oil issues. I use ethanol free gas and run the carb dry after each use to avoid carb cleaning duty
  6. Random Pic of my Fareast 23R

    A little brother! Nice!
  7. FE28R Tuning Guide anyone?

    Here courtesy of North Sails One Design is their rig tuning guide Fareast 28R Rig tune notes.xlsx
  8. Infuckers on the Fareast 28r

    Granted. Now how about some helpful ideas to help me solve this problem
  9. Infuckers on the Fareast 28r

    Well, found out this weekend the set up is not up to the task. Bent the bolt on the foremost fairlead and the plastic broke during a race in high wind. No sure if it was the force from the jib sheet or if the ring had reached the end of its travel and we broke it with the winch, but either way have to rethink this. I'm thinking a SS padeye with a small block or ring instead of the fairlead. Thoughts??
  10. Infuckers on the Fareast 28r

    Putting the ring through both the top and bottom lines changes neither the purchase nor the load on the fairleads. The dyneema line is more than adequate to handle the load with a 4000lb working load rating. I do worry about the fairleads which will probably see 100lbs or more each. The jib sheet force is shared between the 2 fairleads, the jib car and the winch. Variants of this setup are common on many sportboats. A number of the FE28R's are using this setup and have not seen reports of any failures yet on FE28R boards. The tackline for the spinnaker is held by a single cam cleat and it's 2 10x24x3 SS bolts . Under load I cannot bring the line in without the winch so these little bits of hardware are something else.
  11. Infuckers on the Fareast 28r

    Here is the set-up on another boat
  12. Infuckers on the Fareast 28r

    This set -up allows the inhauler to follow the jib car on the track on the deck. If the ring was fixed it would always pull from the forward fairlead. It also spreads the load to two points.
  13. Infuckers on the Fareast 28r

    Here is photo. G10 is what I meant by fiberglass board
  14. Infuckers on the Fareast 28r

    I installed the inhaulers this last weekend and had my first sail with them on Saturday. I put 2 Harken Bullseye fairleads 14 inches apart with the furthest 22 inches from the edge of cabin top/bulkhead. I put a Harken cam cleat with bullseye 2 inches from edge. Used a 14mm low friction ring and 4mm covered dyneema line. The ring turned out to be too small to run line in twice and still leave room for the 6mm jib sheet so I only ran the inhauler line once through the ring. There is no friction on the inhauler line or fairleads exept when you make adjustments to them which is not very often. The friction is only on the ring when you tack when the jib sheet runs through it. I sailed in 10 to 12 kt winds and what bringing in the lead about 3 or 4 inches with the inhaulers did was help to flatten the leach at the top and improve overall sail shape when close hauled. There is a lot of force in high wind on those fairleads. I used 1 inch SS washers under each bolt but still makes me nervous. May go back and epoxy some 1/4 inch fiberglass board below those to spread the load.
  15. Fareast 28R photo album

    Nice pic- hope you got some wind. I am curious as to whether those half stanchions and pulpits are interchangeable with the FE28R. I cut mine down but would like to replace with those if they would swap out without cutting holes