allene222

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About allene222

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    SF Bay

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  1. allene222

    A big project!

    He is still taking the boat apart!
  2. allene222

    Mainsail cloth choice

    Just a follow up. I got the Ultra Flex and it has some radial cloth on the clew patch to spread the load appropriately. I didn't have to ask for that, they just do it. The sail has performed well so far this season. So much better than any main I have had previous to this. The cost was about 1.5 x dacron sail.
  3. allene222

    What jib halyard should I get

    I was searching on another topic and found my old post so thought I would update. I now have one and a half seasons and have found the Amsteel/ Tenex combination to work well. The splice, which is on the winch, is trivial to make between these two 12 strand lines. The similar size of the two lines means nothing goes skyward if I let go. The thing I wanted to add was that I did a pre stretch on the halyard. I anchored the line on a tree and tied a 4x4 with a winch on it to a tree 50 feet away. It was a 30 power winch with a 18 inch torque wrench as the handle. 100 ft-pounds on the handle x 30 was 3000 pounds and at that stretch I could stand on the line, which was maybe a foot off the ground, without it touching the ground. The most I can get on the halyard on the boat is about 500 pounds so this should be sufficient pre stretch. I have had great results with the new rig and find the new halyard works great. I ended up switching the wing halyards to combinations of Amsteel and Tenex as well. The stretch of straight polyester was not working for us on a free flying reaching sail we use. That was a long story which included blowing up a cheek block, getting bullet proof replacements, and two speed winches back at the cockpit for the wing halyards.
  4. allene222

    PredictWind vs Sail Flow vs Whoever - The sequel

    If you want free government data all in one place plus tide charts take a look at my weather page. http://weather.L-36.com. Even the damn USCG uses it. Just tell it where you are and it will set up the entire page. But remember that there are only two types of weather forecasts: Wrong and Useless. A couple of weeks ago Sailflow said 10 knots between 2 and 4 and the RC sent us there. No wind and only one boat in both fleets finished. The only thing anyone could do to finish was have a tall mast. I find it interesting but at least where we sail, usually wrong. Allen L-36.com
  5. allene222

    A big project!

    More power to him if he is successful. My only frame of reference, other than my own wood boat, is Freda. Freda is a 128 year old 35 foot wood boat that was restored by the Spaulding Wooden Boat Center. That took 8 years and cost $500k. Tally Ho is bigger but likely in better shape than Freda was. We will all see but at this point, it looks like he is still taking it apart with the exception of the keel. He is clearly talented and I love the videos.
  6. allene222

    A big project!

    I seriously doubt he will ever finish this boat.
  7. allene222

    A big project!

    I worked for a guy who used to say that "Good enough is perfect". A lot of wisdom in that.
  8. allene222

    A big project!

    He clearly knows what he is doing. I hope he has a realistic estimate of how long it will take. On my boat I have a saying. Every project takes a "boat week". There are twelve boat weeks in a year.
  9. allene222

    A big project!

    My old mast opening on the cabin top was an inch off center which led to a huge discussion about how to put in the new mast. The mast step wasn't centered and the deck was an inch higher from the water on one side. The boat builder spent a day measuring and fussing with it once it was out of the water. Finally I said center it on the mast step and center it between the chainplates at the top. It is 1/2 degree from level at the dock which means I have to move move 50 pounds from the starboard side to the port side and then it is straight. And yet when the boat was measured by Buzz prior to making the new mast, he said it was one of the most true boats he had ever measured. Boats are not pianos. PS, my boat is over 60 years old. That said, the old repair was not right, too many planks had seams lined up. That should be fixed and assuming he doesn't have to replace too many frames, I can understand him fixing that. The other side, which was as built but not as drawn, I sincerely hope he decides it is good enough. I think he is the only one that can see the "imperfection". Long ago I gave up trying to make my boat perfect. Now I prefer to go sailing. I spend enough time keeping it acceptable.
  10. allene222

    A big project!

    At some point he is going to have to realize he isn't building a piano. More power to him if he finishes but he is still taking the damn thing apart. Geeze....
  11. allene222

    Vang setup advise

    I can't move the attachment point as it is part of the boom. This vang has a lot of throw. It is set up so that somewhere around the middle of that throw is about the 90 degree point. The sail I have now is leach tight at 90 degrees but other boats in my class have leach tight with the boom just cliping the lifeline. Mine cannot go that low with this vang but it can go way lower than leach tight on my sail. My thought was to allow for a larger sail but that may have been a mistake. And of course, I did not have my new main when I ordered the main so I would have had to allow some tolerance for that anyway. On the other end, the boom end can go up about 2 1/2 feet from the 90 degree setting. If I find I need the boom to go higher, I would need to either modify the vang, or order a new one. I doubt that will be necessary as the thing can almost point at the moon. As far as the issue with the boom hitting the water, I will look into making the retaining mechanism break away so that cannot happen.
  12. allene222

    Vang setup advise

    @IStream The vang allows about 5 feet of vertical motion at the tip of the boom. It is about half up and half down. This would allow me to someday get a larger mainsail that although unlikely it is what my main competitor has. It would also would allow the boom to go about 2 1/2 feet above vertical which hopefully is enough to avoid the boom break condition @Later brought up. I just did a sketch with the boom all the way out and up 2 1/2 feet. The boom hits the water at a 30 degree heel. Hopefully the water would just push the boom aft instead of breaking it. Had I been aware of this potential problem, I would have asked for a longer vang. Of course, there is also the question of how strong is the vang set screw that prevents it from breaking apart. Hopefully that would break first. This is a Garhauer vang. Should I be concerned? Anyway, back to your point. I don't think I would ever want the spring to push the boom up 2 1/2 feet.
  13. allene222

    Vang setup advise

    @sailorman44, pretty good question. I had a nice 20:1 vang which was a 5:1 and 4:1 cascaded. I had a boom lift that was at the cockpit that could raise the boom in light winds. So why did I get the rigid vang? More money than brains? Following the trends? Keeping up with the new boats? None of the above, all of the above? It does look nice but the main reason I got it was that last season we really needed to raise the boom in light winds. We did terrible in light winds. Part of it might have been due to the mainsail being too flat and my new main might fix that by itself. But what I found was that it was pretty difficult to adjust the amount that the boom lift raised the sail. You had to pull pretty hard and it was not what I would call a finesse adjustment. As far as the rigid vang taking being an impediment to down force and not a help, that is certainly true. My calculations are that it probably takes out half of the force which is to say that instead of a 20:1 vang, I have effectively a 10:1 vang. I didn't really see an advantage when going from a 5:1 to a 20:1 so I am not thinking that is going to hurt much. But it was certainly something I considered before I bought it. I read and observe that most people with a rigid vang remove their topping lift and use the main halyard when at the slip to hold up the boom. There is then some reduction in windage so should be some probably unmeasurable speed advantage to having a rigid vang. Also, the topping lift can hang up on the sail which is kind of a pain. Bottom line is I hope it makes it easier to adjust the sail shape particurally in light winds. I don't see a disadvantage and it wasn't all that expensive. But I am still not sure how to set it up. I think where it is now is pretty close to what @Will1073 suggested. The comments of @IStream would suggest I add a spacer to give more upward force. From a convenience standpoint, it would be nice to have the boom up about 4 inches which I think means adding 3/8 inch in spacers. But that might give too much upward force for the vang off condition. I am sure I will know a lot more after using it in racing conditions.
  14. allene222

    Vang setup advise

    I am looking for how the thing should be adjusted. Is full vang off a setting when sailing? If so, how high should be boom be with vang off? If vang off is never a setting, then I can just add a big spacer and always be pulling it down. Rigid vang is pretty new to me.
  15. allene222

    Vang setup advise

    I just installed a Garhauer rigid vang on my L-36. I gave them all the loads and I think they did a good job of getting the tensions about right but I am wondering what the ideal setup actually is for a rigid vang. I know I can adjust the tension with spacers but am completely clueless about what the goal should be. My sailmaker says vangs hold booms up and pull them down. Garhauer said I can raise it if I want but maybe just go sailing and see. I am looking for perhaps a better goal than that. Right now, the boom is 6 feet off the cockpit sole with the sail up and the leach straight (90 degree boom). The vang will hold it up about 2 inches above that. With the sail down, the boom is about 2 inches below that. When I put the boat away, I want the boom higher so I can either leave the boom lift on the boom, or remove it and use the main halyard as a boom lift when at the dock. The vang itself is not strong enough to dispense with some kind of boom lift when docked. I also wanted to have the vang give a little more sail shape in really light air. The way it is now will certainly allow for more sail shape if for no other reason it has removed the weight of the boom from the sail as it is at a minimum self supporting. Just looking for some guidance. Googled for a couple of hours and found nothing. I guess it isn't critical but does anyone care to share some advice? My best guess is that it is about right but just wondering if that is correct.