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About allene222

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  1. allene222

    What cloth for a Code Zero Jib?

    I have considered that. I have a trisec masthead so there is a jib halyard and two wing halyards. The wing halyards can be used as a second jib halyard. I could use soft hanks and a dyneema fake forestay and I would never have to unhank, just treat it as a thing. Ideally one would put up the 90 before dropping this sail and we could always just drop the free sail if the wind came up. It really has not been a problem getting the sail up and down that I can remember except on a reach. It certainly was not in the one race where we used it this year but then again, there wasn't any wind. But like I said, ideally you don't want to sail without a jib which is why I have not followed through on this idea.
  2. allene222

    What cloth for a Code Zero Jib?

    I contacted the sailmaker that built the spinnaker shown on my profile photo. He advised me against any of the choices listed on my opening post. His advice is either DP CZ60 Silver or a light Dacron, 3.8 oz as he does not think the other cloths would be strong enough for the conditions which as you say can have sudden changes in wind strength. I looked at all the wind data from this season and there was one where there was an extended period of 5 knots followed almost instantly 15 knots. So to him the requirement of not being ripped to shreds in 15 knots upwind is a tough one. The sail I am replacing is a 150 free flying light Dacron so probably like his second choice. We have used it for about 10 years as a runner, reacher, and upwind in light air. The only really difficult trick was getting it down when it suddenly started blowing 15 or 20 knots on a reach. I would typically have to take it home to dry out. You are correct about the crew. The crew runs from young to old. Young means not quite yet on Medicare. This year we quit using this old sail downwind or reaching with the addition of the A3 as the sock and lack of the pole made a huge difference in ease of use. Unfortunately with the forestay right on the bow I just don't wee how I could add a furler without adding a bowsprit and that is a riddle I have not been able to solve. That said, I can see how that would make it easier to use. I was initially thinking of using it in a sock as that has been so successful with the A3. I am pretty confused at this point and not at all sure what I am going to do. My plan is to more carefully analyze the data from the past season and see if I can better define the problem. Perhaps then the solution will be more obvious.
  3. allene222

    What cloth for a Code Zero Jib?

    Talked to another sailmaker today who didn't think the spinnaker cloths would work in 10 knots. He favored a code zero laminate such as the one you linked. I might have to rethink the stuffing and just get something that can be bagged rather than furled. The other possibility he mentioned is to just get a light Dacron similar to the sail I am replacing.
  4. allene222

    What cloth for a Code Zero Jib?

    That is what I was thinking about the CZ but with the taffeta I wasn't sure. Thanks for the comment. I heard that about the luff tension from one of the sailmakers. I honestly don't understand. I normally keep 1200 pounds on my forestay. That is up from where I had it when the rig was wood. The wing halyards are designed for 1000 pounds so they can get pretty close to the tension that I have on the forestay. My thought is tension is tension so this should be fine considering the lighter winds. What am I missing?
  5. allene222

    What cloth for a Code Zero Jib?

    PHRF says nothing about a headsail having to be attached to the forestay. It says it must be tacked to the boat's centerline and there is a dimension difference but that is it. Interestingly, PHRF says a headsail has a midgirth less than 75% and my local NCPHRF says a headsail has a midgirth less than 50% so locally there are some sails that are neither spinnakers or headsails. But that is another story. I guess I should have been more clear that I will not be using a furler. The sail needs to be stuffed either in a turtle or a sock. I want a free flying upwind sail for winds below 10 knots but with the ability to survive 15 knots in case the wind picks up before we can take it down. I am interested if others have done this, what these listed cloths are like, and if they are suitable for the application. I get conflicting advice from different sailmakers.
  6. allene222

    What cloth for a Code Zero Jib?

    For lack of a better term I will call this sail a code-zero jib. It will be an upwind 155 jib but free flying off a wing halyard on my 36 foot boat. Our races are a tad over an hour long and this year typically we saw 30 knots at some point but might also see 6 knots or less on the same day. When the wind gets too light for the 90, I might hoist my 50 year old biradial 150 free flying jib (I removed all the hanks). It is a bit embarrassing using such an old sail plus it no longer has the best shape. That said, this sail has saved us big time on many occasions. I love using it but it is time to replace it with a newer sail. The question is what cloth to use for the replacement. The sailmaker I have been using left sailmaking for parts unknown so I am asking around. Before he left, he suggested I get a 3 ounce spinnaker cloth as I would either use a turtle or an ATN sock. That may rule out a laminates, not sure. One suggestion was ProLite but it is pretty expensive and the sailmaker I am talking to doesn't use it. The first set of quotes gave three options. 1) Contender Superkote SK250 -- Nylon 2) Contender Stromlite STL210 -- Polyester 3) Dimension-Polyant Code Zero White CZ60 -- Taffeta-film laminate w/polyester strings Comments, suggestions? Anyone familiar with any of these cloths? Allen
  7. allene222

    New Mainsail - what sailmaker What Type

    I am very happy with my new Flex-Ultra main. It is a cross cut material with spectra strings. Cheaper than any quote that had tri-radial. Nice cloth.
  8. allene222

    A big project!

    I really don't think the bolts between the frames and the floors are what is holding the frames to the keel. The planks are bolted to the frames and the planks are bolted to the floors. That is the connection. And of course, the weight of the keel transferred to the floors is pressing down on the planks so even the bolts through the planks to the floors are not all that important load wise. Any load on those horizontal bolts through the frames and the floors would just split open the frames. Like I said, I think those bolts just keep the floors from getting bent by loads like people stepping on them or kicking them. It is all a system.
  9. allene222

    A big project!

    On my boat the floors are through bolted to the keel with long bronze rods. They rods go from the bottom of the lead to the top of the floors. The load is spread into the hull by the floors. The main structure is that the hull is screwed to the floors and the floors are bolted through the keel. The attachments between the floors and the frames, which are bolts running horizontally through both, are less important and I think mainly responsible for keeping the floors vertical. I am sure every boat is different but I think it safe to say the main thing is that the weight of the lead is transferred to the floors which then are supported by the hull. The frames hold the hull together.
  10. allene222

    A big project!

    Hopefully some of the superstructure from the original boat will go back on. And he did keep the lead :-) I think there is also something to be said for using the old boat as the "mold" for building the new one. There was a guy in out fleet that had a plan of replacing all the floors and ribs, then replacing the planks once that was done. He did the floors and vanished, which is typical of a lot of boat "restorations" as far as I can tell.
  11. allene222

    SailTimer wind instrument

    The law is not on their side. By law, you must have a reasonable basis for stating that a product can be shipped within a certain time. If your advertising doesn't clearly and prominently state the shipment period, you must have a reasonable basis for believing that you can ship within 30 days. If you can't ship within the promised time (or within 30 days if you made no promise), you must notify the customer of the delay, provide a revised shipment date and explain his right to cancel and get a full and prompt refund. For definite delays of up to 30 days, you may treat the customer's silence as agreeing to the delay. But for longer or indefinite delays - and second and subsequent delays - you must get the customer's written, electronic or verbal consent to the delay. If the customer doesn't give you his okay, you must promptly refund all the money the customer paid you without being asked by the customer.
  12. allene222

    Asymmetric off spin pole?

    This is an old thread but I found it looking for ideas to add a short bowsprit for use with an asymmetric spinnaker. I am presently using just a tack line off a low friction ring tied to the bow toggle and that works wine. We do outside jibes just as we did when I used a free flying jib but now I am using a real spinnaker. The issue is that this setup won't work if I add a furler, which is what I am trying to figure out. Anyway, what I have found is that the rules for adding a bowsprit to a boat designed for a symmetric spinnaker vary a lot by region. Most allow a bowsprit of some length. Some give credit if the tack is locked to the centerline, typically 9 seconds per mile. Some reduce that credit as the bowsprit length increases. Some regions have tables and formulas so you can figure this all out. Unfortunately Northern California has working like MIGHT, and "Case by Case basis" so you just can't engineer something and have any idea what it will do to the handicap. Just thought I would put this out there in case anyone finds this old thread.
  13. allene222

    A big project!

    After he replaces all the frames what are the chances he decides to replace all the planks?
  14. allene222

    Fecnor Flat Deck furler

    OK, sounds like it would be fine. I can get to within 4 feet of the stern and then the traveler stops things. The thing that has me stumped now is the spinnaker tack. Most PHRF regions allow a short bow sprit to tack an asymmetric on a boat built for a symmetric but northern California pretty soft on their verbiage so I am not at all sure what the implications to the rating would be either up or down.
  15. allene222

    Fecnor Flat Deck furler

    @Plumbean What kind of boat do you have? My 36 foot boat has a J of 13.5 and the maximum sail is 155.