allene222

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Everything posted by allene222

  1. allene222

    A big project!

  2. allene222

    A big project!

    Compared to my wood boat, he is building a piano.
  3. allene222

    Introducing the "Crown Jewels Soft Shackle"

    I am pulling on the tails which eventually get cut off.
  4. allene222

    Introducing the "Crown Jewels Soft Shackle"

    Why do you think it would be stronger? I typically pull the tails against a thick washer or plate with a hole in it. That allows me to use just my vice and some vice grip pliers to get quite a lot of leverage. I use the shape of the pliers as levers. Here is one way. I don't pull on the pliers, I push on them against the plate in this case.
  5. allene222

    Tacktick/Micronet questions

    This is a pretty old post but perhaps there are still some questions. I can tell you that a wind transducer will display directly to a display. I have a wind transducer and a remote display at home, nowhere near my hull transducer or nmea interface, and it reads wind speed and direction just fine. As I understand it, the problem with wind, assuming you have it set up correctly, is range and things like carbon sails, which will block the signals. With really tall masts, some people put a mast rotation thing half way up. I sometimes have wind not come on but just turn the system off and turn it back on standing somewhere else. The only problem I ever have is really nuts wind readings when I am under the Bay Bridge. wtf is with that? I keep my displays in my cabin without covers and they are always charged which is impressive as my windows are blue plexiglass so not even clear. I know a fair amount about them, where they work and where they are crap so if there are still questions ask away. Allen L-36.com
  6. allene222

    A big project!

    His boat will be a lot truer than mine when he is one. The level of precision is something to behold. Nice tools too.
  7. allene222

    Humidity on a Boat

    I wrote an article on L-36.com with the title "Humidity on a Boat". In that I assert that there are just two ways to address high levels of humidity on a boat. This was based on my trying many ways that did not work. I did an experiment today that both reinforces this conclusion and points out that I still have a ways to go in solving this. I am writing this post both to inform others of my findings and to solicit advice on solving my problem. One way to deal with humidity is to seal up the boat and put a dehumidifier aboard and drain the water overboard. The other is to open up the boat and encourage ventilation and seek to get the humidity inside the boat equal to that outside. This is topical in this forum with the post about the humidifier a fer days ago. In areas of high outside humidity the humidifier is the only thing that will work. But if the outside air is not that humid, then keeping the inside air the same as the outside is the way to go. I went to my boat today the humidity inside was 80%. There was no mold as I use one of the air circulation devices with a low wattage heater and a fan and that pretty well keeps that under control. But anything that every had salt water on it was wet. Salt likes to keep the surrounding air below 70% so my hat, for example, was wet as it attempted to dry the air around it. The interesting thing was that today I brought a large box fan and set it up on an open hatch for an hour or so. That dropped the humidity to 60%. Clearly I am not getting enough ventilation on the boat. I have two of the Narco solar powered fans blowing air out, all the hatches are open just a bit and the companionway hatch as two six inch holes in it so that when they are open, you can read the compass and navigation instruments. (Yeah, I know not very seaworthy but that was how it was when I got the boat.) I need something stronger. I have thought of getting a stronger vent fan that perhaps would run off 120V power but always hesitate to run anything that might catch my boat on fire as I can't find a marine rated fan for the job. Has anyone put really significantly powerful vent fans on their boat? What did you use and how did it work out? Allen
  8. allene222

    Humidity on a Boat

    Well, it never freezes but the humidity outside does get close to 100% sometimes and with ventilation the goal is inside = outside. I assume you seal your boat up so that you are controlling the humidity with your dehumidifier. Can you tell me the brand? I am always up for trying something better although it was such an effort to install my 12 volt IP68 fan that I hate to quit using it.
  9. allene222

    Humidity on a Boat

    Well, you can't do both. You either run a dehumidifier or have lots of ventilation. Otherwise you are trying to dry the earth. The DryBoat is a compressorless dehumidifier which is certainly appealing. I would think just putting a dehumidifier somewhere on the boat is not going to keep all the compartments dry. I got a great improvement by leaving hatch covers open an inch. If I used a dehumidifier I would have to close them and then I am afraid that those area would get moist again. I actually have no idea, it is just something I wonder about. Perhaps just keeping the main cabin dry would draw the moist air out of the other compartments. The exhaust fan I installed moves air throughout the boat. The humidity is running 70-85% now in the winter but it is 86% outside at the boat as I write this so I am probably doing as well as can be done without a dehumidifier. What I have found is that things only stay wet below if there is salt on them so washing things, using the sto-dry, and good air circulation is acceptable for me. The boat will be dry come summer regardless so it isn't a permanent thing.
  10. allene222

    Synthetic Teak for Cabin Sole

    Sorry. Sometimes I forget that not all boats are made out of wood.
  11. allene222

    Synthetic Teak for Cabin Sole

    Not sure why you just want veneer. Public Lumber still lists it on their website. 1/2 inch is $259. http://publiclumber.com/store/pc/Teak-and-Holly-c41.htm Cheers.
  12. allene222

    A big project!

  13. allene222

    A big project!

  14. allene222

    A big project!

    Wow. Why should I not be so impressed with the progress and approach Leo is making after watching post #530 video? They have a crew of thousands and are only half way toward where Leo is in more time. Please excuse my exaggeration (lying) as I have only learned how to do it in the last 3 years.
  15. allene222

    A big project!

  16. allene222

    Cobham Sailor Fleet One antenna mounting options

    You can use electrical tape and just keep wrapping it until you get the diameter you want. Then use your oversize mount.
  17. allene222

    A big project!

    At the risk of repeating myself: "Anybody that owns a wood boat is either crazy or in love and it really helps to be both". This video is evidence. So is my boat. Someone just today asked when all the wood in my boat will have been replaced. Never is the answer but a lot has. I think the answer to Leo's riddle is that typically boats have bits replaced a little at a time and nobody would question if it is the same boat. Leo is doing it all at once but as he sort of points out he is also not. He is replacing frames against some of the original planking. And as one new piece goes in, some new old piece comes out. It maintains its identity through every step of the project so it is the same boat. Is it a wise thing to do? See the quote above.
  18. allene222

    A big project!

    Ironwood?
  19. allene222

    Mast mate ladder

    Rather than having two foot ascenders, get a knee ascender. I have a friend who had a mast mate. I helped him climb his mast once. I did the safety halyard from the deck. He said it scared the daylight out of him and he would never do it again. He was getting the boat ready to sell so I am pretty sure he never did. When I had my wood mast, 99% of my climbing was to paint it. Sand on the way up, paint on the way down. Took about 4 hours per climb as I recall so the speed of either up or down was not an issue. Being able to go back up a couple feet if I missed a spot was way more important. My modified method was ideal for that. These days 99% of my mast climbing is what I would call recreational or to make my videos or try out new equipment. The modified method is still good, easy to remember, and works well. But the parts are no longer made so I switched to the Ultimate method which has the advantage of being able to get down quickly as I no longer need to paint with my new rig. I could still use the ascenders of the Ultimate method without the descender and get down the way I did with the modified method but it is slow and a bit of work. Allen
  20. @Expedition I can't apply my software to them. Stowe can. They can switch them from their GX Display to the GX Terminal. At one time I inquired about switching one of my Terminals to become a display and they asked 65 pounds for the labor. I ended up just doing the code in my RaceBox and then ultimately in the ESP8266 driver boards. I see in the Expedition manual that it can drive a Stowe either display or terminal. I can't tell which. One giveaway is that the Display is 4800 baud and the terminal is 9600 baud. The Expedition manual is ambiguous. "The default Stowe Dataline GX Terminal Display serial port settings are 9600, 8, N, 1. Baud rate 4800 Data bits 8 Parity None Stop bits 1" My guess is that you have the terminal and not the display and that the manual I am looking at is either old or has a misprint. One issue I had with the terminals was the delay, which is about 1 second. I have to calculate all the burn times and anticipate that they will be displayed one second in the future so with 5 seconds to go, I send 4 seconds to the display. We worked hard to identify the source of the delay and he said that I would have to buy 10 to get them fixed. I think I did buy that many but not all at once so no fix. The problem was not in his code so he would have had to buy 10 more from his vendor.
  21. Hope you enjoy this. Note, I am not selling anything. I even stopped giving stuff away as it was just too hard to deal with Google's requirements for apps. Just sharing what I built.
  22. allene222

    Mast mate ladder

    I have tried a chest harness and a foot ascender. The problem I had was that going up with just one foot ascender tired me out. I know tree climbers use them but they use a knee ascender and a foot loop as well so they just walk up the rope like they are climbing stairs. Google "rope walking" for details. But just using one foot was just too hard. I am no spring chicken but I am not weak either. The system I use utilizes both legs to climb so in essence it is half as hard. It is about like standing up from a sitting position and then doing that repeatedly. I set the foot straps so that I can grab the mast with my feet to help with the stabilization issue. The foot straps allow one foot on each side of the mast and the strap is snug against the mast all the way around.
  23. allene222

    Mast mate ladder

    @Slick470 Thanks for the reply. Hopefully you have read all the upgrades that make going down much more controlled. I actually talked to a one armed sailor who wanted to climb his mast. We settled on the GriGri system with a foot ascender to pull the line coming out of the GriGri. That allowed him to use his one hand to hold himself steady while he ascended. He never got back to me so I don't know how it worked out. I tried it and found it exhausting but it did work.
  24. allene222

    Mast mate ladder

    @Slick470 Which system do you use? When I had a wood mast I would mainly climb to paint and getting down was slow but that was fine as I was painting on the way down so I wanted it to be slow. My newer methods are very fast getting down but more complicated to setup. Would love to hear your experience and which one you use. I never recommended the GriGri system but it was fun to play with and some people liked it. The modified one was good but you can't buy the microcender any longer. I can understand that as I had to modify them to get it to work to my satisfaction as I described in my article. The new one linked above is my new favorite.
  25. allene222

    Mast mate ladder

    I found a reference to define "very quickly". relative to suspension trauma. "It is difficult to put a timeline on deaths, however from research it is clear that death can result in as little as 10 minutes, more typically between 15 – 40 minutes post-suspension". And to think I used to use my marine chest harness as backup... But it is long enough that if there was someone else onboard who could lower a halyard you would be OK.